Dead of August-Utah Bound
 

In spite of warnings not to hike Utah in the heat of August, that's where we think we're heading. We; DH and two 20 something daughters for some family bonding time. We'll fly to Las Vegas and hopefully see the Beatles show, then leave just as quickly to head to the North Rim, where I booked cabins for 3 nights. And yes, I know I'm now in Arizona:) We'll then go to the Desert Pearl as our 3? night base for Zion and maybe more. If time allows, we'll head towards Torrey to Capital Reef and Grand Staircase, before winding back to Las Vegas and home. Questions: too long for N Rim? Any suggestions for the Las Vegas lodging night? Is Desert Pearl a good base for other than Zion? Worth the extra miles to go towards Torrey? I'd planned about 8-9 nights total. My hope is that this trip affords us the hiking we enjoy, and plenty of variation on places to visit to suit all parties. Many thanks.

The north rim is higher in elevation and will be a little cooler. It's also more wooded/shaded, including a long part of North Kaibab. There are some really nice rim hikes that go out to points but I'm sure you will want to hike down into the canyon some too. Just start early. You could do north rim in two nights but that would only give you one full day. I think 3 nights is better.

I'd highly recommend Bryce Canyon--it's fabulous--views and hiking--and not far from Zion.

Everyone loves Desert Pearl. I haven't stayed there, but I would always recommend staying "in the park" when possible. You will have the best temperatures at Grand Canyon and Bryce. Even in Zion you can cool off by taking a day to hike "the narrows". I would probably do two nites in Grand Canyon, 2 or 3 in Zion, 2 in Bryce, and 1 or 2 in Capitol Reef. I would go ahead and allow a day to see Goblin Valley and Little Wildhorse Canyon, which is an hour north of Cap Reef. Very interesting place and the canyon is a very good slot canyon. Do hike Angels Landing. Try Canyoneering somewhere in Escalnte/staircase or Zion.

North Rim at almost 9,000 feet will not be all that hot. It is heavily forested and really lovely. If you spend 3 nights there, you have two full days. I suggest you spend one hiking in that area---Transept Trail, a walk down the NK trail into the canyon, or something else. Spend the other driving to the remote viewpoints---Cape Royal, etc. Check on road conditions and what kind of car you need for this---we didn't have time to do this but I wish we had.

As for Zion---we have stayed at both Zion Lodge and Desert Pearl. Both have their good points. I am generally an advocate for staying inside the park, any park. But in summer---I'd stay at Desert Pearl, with the pool.

We were in Utah in August a few years ago, and it was not that bad. I second the suggestion of hiking the Narrows-- renting the proper equipment and starting as early in the AM as possible. We stayed at the Desert Pearl and loved it, but have not stayed elsewhere in Zion, so have nothing to compare it to. I would recommend against tubing in the Virgin River at that time of year, because the water level is generally too low.

If it is too hot to hike in the lower elevations, take a ride up to Cedar Breaks, it is enough higher to be a bit cooler and is beautiful and probably not crowded at all.

soxgirl,
I'd cut your time at the North Rim and Zion to 2 nights to allow time at Bryce and a drive out Route 12. Be sure to get out of LV early for the 5 hr drive to the North Rim to give you plenty of time that first day. You should make your dinner reservations at the NRim lodge far in advance of your trip.
The Desert Pearl is a great place to stay. I agree with enzian - having the pool in August is a nice feature and being able to walk to restaurants, etc is also convenient. The drive from NRim to Springdale is only about 2hrs and you'll enter through the Zion's east entrance. Be prepared to stop often to take in the incredible scenery. There is a great short hike called Canyon Overlook right at the east entrance to the tunnel. The views are amazing -

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/85429046

You should not miss Bryce. It's just a 2hr drive from Zion and it's a magical place. Spend a night or 2 - you just might be able to get a room inside the park this far in advance. Even if you can't stay inside, grab a room at Ruby's just outside. All of the trails we've hiked have been incredible - Fairyland loop, Peekaboo, Queens Garden, Navajo loop - you can't miss in Bryce.
Not sure you have enough time to really see much in Capitol Reef but you might consider driving the highly scenic route 12 to Boulder, Utah. You could spend the night at the Boulder Mtn Lodge (lovely place) and do some exploring along the way. A hike into Calf Creek to cool off in the waterfall might be nice in August.
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/34819898

You also will have access to the Escalante River along the way - we haven't done it yet but there is some nice hiking along the river. In the tiny town of Escalante, there are some great roads to explore including the Devils Backbone and Hole in the Rock Rd. A short drive down Hole in the Rock will get you to the Devils Garden, a fun place to take pictures and check out the crazy rock formations.

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/85698056

There is a small state park near Boulder with a good display of anasazi ruins to check out.

If you stay at Boulder mtn lodge, be sure to have dinner at the onsite restaurant - Hells Backbone Grill. It's a great experience considering that you are in the middle of nowhere. I'll post a link to our trip report from 2007 - we spent 9 nights exploring between Zion and Capitol Reef and you might get some ideas from our trip. We've been to many of these parks plenty of times before so we were on a mission to see some specific sights but I think it will be helpful.
And ask lots of questions - there are many fodors folks who have tons of great advice about this area. Enjoy the planning!

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/utah_tr

You definitely have time to do a lot.

I don't hike in water (camera, etc) so I can't tell you about the Narrows and I don't do hard things so I can't tell you about Angel's Landing.

It will be hot in Zion. But I'm a believer in working with what you have. Do it.

I'd spend 1 night in Bryce. Make sure you're at Bryce Point for sunrise, stop by the Natural Bridge viewpoint and hike down Navajo Loop and depending upon how much you want to hike either up the other side of Navajo Loop or connect to Queen's garden to come back up.

It seems that nobody else has been there but I'll suggest Willis Creek. On the way from Bryce towards Excalante you pass thru Canonville (about 15 miles from Bryce). Stop in at the visitors center and get instructions for Willis Creek. Ten miles of dirt road. Very easy hiking thru a real slot canyon. Even a few very small waterfalls.

As someone suggested, Boulder Mountain Lodge to sleep over. The hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls shouldn't be missed. The view of 126ft falls at the end are spectacular. However, even though it's a relatively flat hike, it's 2.5 niles each way on sand with little shade. We did it a year ago late May and it was 95 degrees. But worth it.

I'm not a big fan of Capitol Reef. It was hot and maybe after being to Arches NP it just wasn't as spectacular.

As to lodging. I would always try to get in-park lodging. But as somebody mentioned, in August you may want the pool at Dessert Pearl. Or just walk in the river on the Riverside Walk on the way to the Narrows.

I'd take a night off your North Rim stay. Not that it's not beautiful (it is, incredibly), but unless you have planned a day hike for every day that you're there, you'd probably find yourself ready to move on after a couple of days anyway. In my experience that happens frequently. And yes, it is 8-9,000' above sea level, so it's nice in summertime.

Since it's so flippin' hot at that time of year, I'd vote for taking Capitol Reef off the agenda and visit Bryce Canyon instead. Gorgeous park, lots of hiking to be had, and like the North Rim, 8,000'+ above sea level, so temps are bearable even in summer (though hot down in the depths of the canyon). You might also consider Lake Powell - hot in summertime, yes, but you can cool off with a dip in the lake.

As far as Vegas hotels go, your choices run the gamut from basic to cushy and everything in between. Reading some reviews might help you decide. I've heard some negative reports lately about Circus Circus and the Stratosphere - they're on the North end of the Strip and kind of far removed from everything anyway. I take it your kids are over 21? If they're not, they will be shooed away from the gaming areas quite aggressively. You might consider staying at Vdara, the new hotel in the City Center complex, which is non-gaming and non-smoking, in a prime location on the Strip, and has a nice spa (from what I've seen, mind you, it just opened).

Good luck in your choice - no matter what you do, get an America the Beautiful Federal Lands Access Pass. It's a card that grants you access to all National Parks and Monuments in the country for 1 year's time for $80. You can get it at the first National Park Fee Station you hit, or pre-order it online at http://store.usgs.gov/pass

Here's what's beautiful about these forums: I followed your advice. Here's my changed itinerary, thanks to you all; Book out of LV quickly. Two nights in a cabin right on North Rim. Three nights at Desert Pearl, affording us the 3 days in Zion. One night Bryce where I scored an in-park cabin. Onwards, hwy 12, at least as far as Escalante to the Slot Canyons Inn (anyone know it) Definitely check out Calf Creek, and will read threads on Escalante area. Myer, I'll look for Willis Creek, thank you. You say you don't do hard things-I get the scariness of the trekking down a 1 foot ledge bordering on a 3000 foot drop. This brings me to Bryce (where I hiked 30 years ago)-is Navajo Loop one of those scary hikes?? Finally, we'll leave Escalante and make our way back to LV and spend the last night in a hotel for the fun of it, never having been there. Thanks for the tips on LV. And yes, daughters are over 21 :) Am I missing anything?

You can see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com

You can select the 2007 & 2008 trips that both include Utah.

There are photos of Lower Calf Creek Falls and Willis Creek slot canyon in the 2008 trip.

Most of the hikes at Bryce are not scary. Unlike Zion where even the Canyon Overlook hike has some narrow, rocky parts, Navajo Loop and Queens Garden are both smooth, wide, gentle and not at the edges. They are very tame.

Last year we hiked to Lower Calf Creek Falls in 95 degree weather. That night a front came thru and while it was sunny next the morning it was a bit cooler. Well, we left Boulder Mountain Lodge to go towards Bryce (I had been there the year before but the friend who came with me last year had never been there) and we could see clouds moving towards us from the west as we went in that direction. When we got to Canonville it had drizzled a bit and got quite cool. We changed into jeans and sweatshirts.

In the visitors' center they checked the weather and told us it looked ok. You don't want to be stuck in a slot canyon in the rain.

I just wish it had been sunny to get photos of the sun bouncing off the walls. I wonder if it's anything like Antelope Canyon (there in 2007).

After a couple of hours we got back in the car and drove to Bryce. As we entered the temperature was 36 degrees and snow flurries were coming down. That's a 60 degree change from one day to the next.

When you hike in elevation (Bryce is at 8,500ft) be sure to drink lot's of water and stop to rest.

The trail on Navaho Loop at Bryce at the most scary/high part is at least 8 feet wide. And it's not very scary.

Trip sounds awesome to me.

I haven't eaten at Hell's Backbone Grill in Escalante, but it is one of the highest reccommended places to eat in the area. I haven't been to Cedar Breaks National Monument, but it is something you might could work in for a short hour visit coming or going from Vegas. Even if for just a look from the rim with a picnic lunch or something. It would be cooler as it is high elevation.

Will second Myer's recommendation to drink a lot of water -- in fact, it's a wise idea to drink regularly even if you don't feel thirsty because you can quickly become dehydrated before you realize it. Also the suggestion to take it easy is a good one, and you'll want time to savor this unique and wonderful landscape anyway.

Also, a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are a must. It's very easy to burn or get heatstroke if you don't use these.

If you do decide to hike to Calf Creek Falls, I would do it very, very early in the morning or evening. It's mostly in sand with little shade. Hard going in the heat. Of course, the pay off at the end is well worth it.

If you do go to Zion beware of Angels Landing. It is very high and dangerous. Also if you are afraid of heights this might not be the place for you. One person fell from there and died earlier this year.

Angels Landing was great. I didn't find it dangerous at all. You are more likely to fall from a ladder. I consider it one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen. Most rate this hike as more rewarding than hiking in the Grand Canyon.

They have more traffic deaths in Zion than Angels Landing.

I will agree, that if you are afraid of heights, it wouldn't be for you.

"You are more likely to fall from a ladder."

Yes, but almost every fall from a ladder results in nothing worse than injury. Almost every fall from Angel's Landing results in death. To me, the death rate for the hike falls in the "reasonable risk" category, but opinions will vary.

In any case, only the last part of the Angel's Landing hike is hair raising. If it bothers you, stop at Scout Lookout, and enjoy the excellent view from there.