Christmas is for family, Thanksgiving is for friends
Nov 28th, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Christmas is for family, Thanksgiving is for friends
That’s my husband’s motto, and I like it. I like it a lot. So much so that we spent Thanksgiving week in New York this year.
I often refer to myself as a “former” New Yorker, but who am I kidding? New York stays with you; you can’t shake it off, even if you wanted to (which I don’t). It stays with me in my attitude, my beliefs, my values; it’s evident in everything from how I walk to how I talk to how I respond to something; to how I interact in the world to my sense of humor. It shaped who I am today and defines me as a person just about more than anything else in my life. It’s a place like no other, and living there translates into a life you really can’t get in many other places – the good and the bad. I always joke that I spent the majority of my adult life not living in America – because New York does not feel like the Rest of America, does it? I love that about it.
I won’t report on a day-by-day basis (we spent most of our time visiting with friends) but will categorize some hopefully useful info. Speaking of friends, I made some great ones while living there, and have kept them, despite having left almost 10 years ago. Of course, it becomes like visiting family (which, in effect, they are), i.e. being torn in many different directions, and having very little time to oneself. My husband and I did manage to snag one evening alone together (still not sure how we managed that.
) On to the report….
Getting there.
We took a bus from the DC area. I vowed never to take a bus again after an incident in college, when the bus arrived at its destination, and a policeman got on board and handcuffed the guy who had been sitting next to me the whole trip. Yeah. But I took the plunge again. These buses are not really bad. They’re comfortable, the drivers are professional, there’s free wi-fi, a movie to help kill some time, and a bottle of water. For less than $30 one way, it’s hard to go wrong. This particular bus leaves from a Metro stop in Virginia which is very close to our house and means we don’t have to deal with The District, like we would when taking Amtrak. (dc2ny.com if anyone is interested). By the way, I hate traveling domestically around Thanksgiving and typically avoid it. But we left on Sunday and came back on Friday, with my hope being to avoid all the travel nastiness - and we did. Very little traffic all the way up and down I-95.
Getting around.
We toyed with the idea of getting a 7-day pass, but after doing the math, realized it wouldn’t be worth it. We were right. We walked a lot, which is my favorite way of getting around in New York – even in the rain. I think we took a cab once in 6 days. Walking, subway and buses – in that order. By the way, you can turn in your expired Metro cards (if it has expired within one year) and the balance will be transferred over to a new card. If I knew that before this trip, I had forgotten!
I’ve taken the Long Island Railroad before, but was a bit concerned what with the Thanksgiving parade ending almost on top Penn Station! We bought our tickets beforehand, but really didn’t need to, especially since we made sure to leave early enough to avoid the throngs of parade-goers heading back home and/or to Grandma’s. The trip out to Locust Valley was easy and quiet, but it was packed coming back at 8:30pm.
Sleeping around.
We stayed at the Gem Hotel in Chelsea. It wasn’t the smallest hotel room I ever had, but it was close! I give them credit, though – the space is designed well for maximum efficiency. After living in 450 square feet for almost 15 years, I totally appreciate space efficiency. The staff was wonderful, and the hotel and room were clean. If you’re the kind of person who is a bugged by a stain on the carpet, though, this place is not for you. The only quibble I have is that we had to get new keys three, count’em 3, times, which is just a pain when all you want to do is collapse and you have to go back down to the lobby. But for the price, I’d stay here again. We paid $149 for 1 night, $169 for 3 nights, and $189 for the last night (Thanksgiving). The location was great for us. We had to be in or around Penn several times, and we could be in the Meatpacking district, West Village or Flatiron in minutes – not to mention that Chelsea is a great neighborhood in and of itself. Oh yes - and half a block from Murray’s Bagels (I got my fix and then some).
Coming up: Music, Shows, Galleries and other Meandering; Eating around; and Imbibing.
I often refer to myself as a “former” New Yorker, but who am I kidding? New York stays with you; you can’t shake it off, even if you wanted to (which I don’t). It stays with me in my attitude, my beliefs, my values; it’s evident in everything from how I walk to how I talk to how I respond to something; to how I interact in the world to my sense of humor. It shaped who I am today and defines me as a person just about more than anything else in my life. It’s a place like no other, and living there translates into a life you really can’t get in many other places – the good and the bad. I always joke that I spent the majority of my adult life not living in America – because New York does not feel like the Rest of America, does it? I love that about it.
I won’t report on a day-by-day basis (we spent most of our time visiting with friends) but will categorize some hopefully useful info. Speaking of friends, I made some great ones while living there, and have kept them, despite having left almost 10 years ago. Of course, it becomes like visiting family (which, in effect, they are), i.e. being torn in many different directions, and having very little time to oneself. My husband and I did manage to snag one evening alone together (still not sure how we managed that.
) On to the report….Getting there.
We took a bus from the DC area. I vowed never to take a bus again after an incident in college, when the bus arrived at its destination, and a policeman got on board and handcuffed the guy who had been sitting next to me the whole trip. Yeah. But I took the plunge again. These buses are not really bad. They’re comfortable, the drivers are professional, there’s free wi-fi, a movie to help kill some time, and a bottle of water. For less than $30 one way, it’s hard to go wrong. This particular bus leaves from a Metro stop in Virginia which is very close to our house and means we don’t have to deal with The District, like we would when taking Amtrak. (dc2ny.com if anyone is interested). By the way, I hate traveling domestically around Thanksgiving and typically avoid it. But we left on Sunday and came back on Friday, with my hope being to avoid all the travel nastiness - and we did. Very little traffic all the way up and down I-95.
Getting around.
We toyed with the idea of getting a 7-day pass, but after doing the math, realized it wouldn’t be worth it. We were right. We walked a lot, which is my favorite way of getting around in New York – even in the rain. I think we took a cab once in 6 days. Walking, subway and buses – in that order. By the way, you can turn in your expired Metro cards (if it has expired within one year) and the balance will be transferred over to a new card. If I knew that before this trip, I had forgotten!
I’ve taken the Long Island Railroad before, but was a bit concerned what with the Thanksgiving parade ending almost on top Penn Station! We bought our tickets beforehand, but really didn’t need to, especially since we made sure to leave early enough to avoid the throngs of parade-goers heading back home and/or to Grandma’s. The trip out to Locust Valley was easy and quiet, but it was packed coming back at 8:30pm.
Sleeping around.
We stayed at the Gem Hotel in Chelsea. It wasn’t the smallest hotel room I ever had, but it was close! I give them credit, though – the space is designed well for maximum efficiency. After living in 450 square feet for almost 15 years, I totally appreciate space efficiency. The staff was wonderful, and the hotel and room were clean. If you’re the kind of person who is a bugged by a stain on the carpet, though, this place is not for you. The only quibble I have is that we had to get new keys three, count’em 3, times, which is just a pain when all you want to do is collapse and you have to go back down to the lobby. But for the price, I’d stay here again. We paid $149 for 1 night, $169 for 3 nights, and $189 for the last night (Thanksgiving). The location was great for us. We had to be in or around Penn several times, and we could be in the Meatpacking district, West Village or Flatiron in minutes – not to mention that Chelsea is a great neighborhood in and of itself. Oh yes - and half a block from Murray’s Bagels (I got my fix and then some).
Coming up: Music, Shows, Galleries and other Meandering; Eating around; and Imbibing.
Nov 29th, 2011, 06:42 AM
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Music, Shows, Galleries and other Meandering
We made a running list of things we wanted to do while in New York and pretty much just played most days by ear. We subscribe to New York Magazine and I also get an e-newsletter (DNAinfo, which someone here recommended, so thank you!) which helped keep us in the know in terms of what was going on. And of course, keeping up to date on Fodor’s so thanks again!
Sunday night, we headed to the Blue Note for Chick Corea and his “Flamenco Heart.” For the month of November (through last weekend), Chick celebrated his 70th birthday. It was a fantastic show – great jazz and Latin music and oh, the flamenco dancer. You know what I loved about her most? She was wearing jeans and a black top – no costume – so I could see how fast her legs were moving. They were merely a blur. Not only the speed, but she was so expressive, so rhythmic, so utterly graceful. The singer (who also hailed from Spain) was also terrific and could really belt it out – great voice, too.
If you’ve never been to the Blue Note, you should know that they pack you in like sardines. The earlier you get there, the better. We didn’t get there early (we were too busy sitting outside drinking wine on a lovely November evening!) and they sat us facing away from the stage. You can’t move your chair, so needless to say it was a bit of a pain in the neck! But worth it. We were happy we paid $65 for a seat and not $45 for the bar area, which is way too small and even more crowded than the tables.
Monday, we wandered around the Union Square Green Market (and I wished I had access to a kitchen this trip) and the holiday market. Some great gift ideas, but I just wasn’t in Christmas-shopping mode yet.
We bused up to the Jewish Museum (5th and 92nd) for a photography exhibit called “The Radical Camera,” photos taken by the “Photo League” (a group of Jewish American photographers) in the late 30s, 40s and early 50s. Highly recommend – it gives a peek into NYC life during this era. Runs through March 25, 2012.
The Highline has been on my list since it opened, and we finally got there. What to say? It is SO cool. I mean, WAY cool. It was drizzly on Tuesday, but I was fine with that since it wasn’t too crowded. But between the vegetation (a friend with us decided that the West side of Manhattan must have some special micro-climate) and the design – of the benches, of the walkways, the art, etc. etc. – well, I was mesmerized. I can’t imagine how packed it must be on a lovely Spring day. My husband took lots of pictures.
We also went to Chelsea Market, another place I had just never been to – loved the Buon Italia store the most.
Wednesday, it was off to the hat and Christmas card exhibits at the gallery in the Bard Graduate Center for Decorative Arts (West 86th between CPW and Columbus). I loved both of these. I’m a hat wearer, but even if you’re not, I think it’d be fascinating. Everything was on display from a NY Yankees cap worn by Babe Ruth to a hat worn by the Queen of England, to the really outrageous, which only models and celebs seem to wear. Very nicely done.
The Christmas card exhibit covered cards from 1900-1960 and was very interesting as well. Students were involved with the exhibit and they came up with 22 different themes that cards tend to have (candles, coaches (of the horse and buggy variety), etc.). I was hoping they’d be selling some student-designed Christmas cards, but no luck. The hats run through April 15, and the cards through Jan 1.
The rest of Wednesday was theatre day! So my husband is a Broadway musical kind of guy and I’m an off-off Broadway play/performance kind of gal. So we compromised (although I made out better by not having to endure a musical – sorry if I offend, it’s just not typically my thing). We saw Private Lives – I love Kim Cattrall and she didn’t disappoint – nor did the other actors for that matter. Very funny. On the opposite end of the mood spectrum, in the evening we saw “Dancing at Lughnasa” at the Irish Rep theatre. I had seen the show before, but the fact that it was playing at the Irish Rep was very appealing to me. What a wonderful performance from everyone on the stage. I think the intimacy of the theatre also lends itself to feeling like you’re part of the show – in this case, sad, and so heartfelt. Really moving.
Nothing to report for Thursday. We spent the day in Bayville with friends, eating mussels plucked that morning from the Long Island Sound (for lunch) and a traditional Thanksgiving dinner later. Good times. I miss living in New York at Thanksgiving. Since I avoided traveling that weekend (and early on, had to work the day after), I was often a “stray,” taken in by various friends, and families of friends, and friends of friends over the years. It was usually something different every year and I loved it.
Friday was departure day and we went down to TriBeCa to the Tachi Gallery (414 Washington St.) to see Even Joseph’s photos entitled “New York at Night.” They weren’t your typical night-time photos of New York City. There were some interesting perspectives from high above, along with dusky (is that a word?) colors on the Downtown Skyline and other less-photographed areas. Loved it.
On the way to Penn, I wanted to see a micro-park I read about at 25th and 8th. We must have walked by it 5 times and missed it, but there it was – a teeny, tiny “park” tended to regularly by a neighborhood gardener. Only in New York…
Eating and drinking is next up.
We made a running list of things we wanted to do while in New York and pretty much just played most days by ear. We subscribe to New York Magazine and I also get an e-newsletter (DNAinfo, which someone here recommended, so thank you!) which helped keep us in the know in terms of what was going on. And of course, keeping up to date on Fodor’s so thanks again!
Sunday night, we headed to the Blue Note for Chick Corea and his “Flamenco Heart.” For the month of November (through last weekend), Chick celebrated his 70th birthday. It was a fantastic show – great jazz and Latin music and oh, the flamenco dancer. You know what I loved about her most? She was wearing jeans and a black top – no costume – so I could see how fast her legs were moving. They were merely a blur. Not only the speed, but she was so expressive, so rhythmic, so utterly graceful. The singer (who also hailed from Spain) was also terrific and could really belt it out – great voice, too.
If you’ve never been to the Blue Note, you should know that they pack you in like sardines. The earlier you get there, the better. We didn’t get there early (we were too busy sitting outside drinking wine on a lovely November evening!) and they sat us facing away from the stage. You can’t move your chair, so needless to say it was a bit of a pain in the neck! But worth it. We were happy we paid $65 for a seat and not $45 for the bar area, which is way too small and even more crowded than the tables.
Monday, we wandered around the Union Square Green Market (and I wished I had access to a kitchen this trip) and the holiday market. Some great gift ideas, but I just wasn’t in Christmas-shopping mode yet.
We bused up to the Jewish Museum (5th and 92nd) for a photography exhibit called “The Radical Camera,” photos taken by the “Photo League” (a group of Jewish American photographers) in the late 30s, 40s and early 50s. Highly recommend – it gives a peek into NYC life during this era. Runs through March 25, 2012.
The Highline has been on my list since it opened, and we finally got there. What to say? It is SO cool. I mean, WAY cool. It was drizzly on Tuesday, but I was fine with that since it wasn’t too crowded. But between the vegetation (a friend with us decided that the West side of Manhattan must have some special micro-climate) and the design – of the benches, of the walkways, the art, etc. etc. – well, I was mesmerized. I can’t imagine how packed it must be on a lovely Spring day. My husband took lots of pictures.
We also went to Chelsea Market, another place I had just never been to – loved the Buon Italia store the most.
Wednesday, it was off to the hat and Christmas card exhibits at the gallery in the Bard Graduate Center for Decorative Arts (West 86th between CPW and Columbus). I loved both of these. I’m a hat wearer, but even if you’re not, I think it’d be fascinating. Everything was on display from a NY Yankees cap worn by Babe Ruth to a hat worn by the Queen of England, to the really outrageous, which only models and celebs seem to wear. Very nicely done.
The Christmas card exhibit covered cards from 1900-1960 and was very interesting as well. Students were involved with the exhibit and they came up with 22 different themes that cards tend to have (candles, coaches (of the horse and buggy variety), etc.). I was hoping they’d be selling some student-designed Christmas cards, but no luck. The hats run through April 15, and the cards through Jan 1.
The rest of Wednesday was theatre day! So my husband is a Broadway musical kind of guy and I’m an off-off Broadway play/performance kind of gal. So we compromised (although I made out better by not having to endure a musical – sorry if I offend, it’s just not typically my thing). We saw Private Lives – I love Kim Cattrall and she didn’t disappoint – nor did the other actors for that matter. Very funny. On the opposite end of the mood spectrum, in the evening we saw “Dancing at Lughnasa” at the Irish Rep theatre. I had seen the show before, but the fact that it was playing at the Irish Rep was very appealing to me. What a wonderful performance from everyone on the stage. I think the intimacy of the theatre also lends itself to feeling like you’re part of the show – in this case, sad, and so heartfelt. Really moving.
Nothing to report for Thursday. We spent the day in Bayville with friends, eating mussels plucked that morning from the Long Island Sound (for lunch) and a traditional Thanksgiving dinner later. Good times. I miss living in New York at Thanksgiving. Since I avoided traveling that weekend (and early on, had to work the day after), I was often a “stray,” taken in by various friends, and families of friends, and friends of friends over the years. It was usually something different every year and I loved it.
Friday was departure day and we went down to TriBeCa to the Tachi Gallery (414 Washington St.) to see Even Joseph’s photos entitled “New York at Night.” They weren’t your typical night-time photos of New York City. There were some interesting perspectives from high above, along with dusky (is that a word?) colors on the Downtown Skyline and other less-photographed areas. Loved it.
On the way to Penn, I wanted to see a micro-park I read about at 25th and 8th. We must have walked by it 5 times and missed it, but there it was – a teeny, tiny “park” tended to regularly by a neighborhood gardener. Only in New York…
Eating and drinking is next up.
Nov 30th, 2011, 07:40 AM
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What a fabulous trip. I've never been to the Bard Center and the hat exhibit is right up my alley so thanks for that! If you get back before Feb. 20, there's a great Cecil Beaton photo exhibit at the Museum of the City of NY. http://www.mcny.org/exhibitions/curr...ork-Years.html
Nov 30th, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Thanks, mclaurie. Funny - the Cecil Beaton exhibit was on the list, but we just didn't get there! Sigh, never enough time. One of my favorite museums, too.
You'll love the hats - 3 floors of them in an Upper West Side townhouse, categorized into various themes.
You'll love the hats - 3 floors of them in an Upper West Side townhouse, categorized into various themes.
Nov 30th, 2011, 12:30 PM
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Warning, this next and final part is long, but what can I say? I love food - eating it and talking about it.
I’m always torn between going back to old favorites – especially to share them with my husband – or trying new (for me) places. This time, the latter won out.
By the way, I know prices are useful to people, but I just found out this A.M. that my husband accidentally threw out all of our receipts, notes, playbills, etc. from the trip. Sigh. So I’ll do what I can by memory.
Antica Venezia, West St. at W. 10th
I chose this place because I got a “Savored” discount and it was convenient to our plans. Despite being ON the West Side Highway, the ambiance inside is very nice, very intimate. The waiter sort of did this Mafioso routine, which I guess could have been funny, but I just found it goofy. Unless, of course, he wasn’t kidding. ;-)
Anyway, the food was pretty good. They brought us some bruschetta and fried zucchini on the house. We shared a Caprese-type salad to start. The mozzarella was wonderful, as were the mushrooms and roasted peppers. The tomato was, well, a November tomato, but it was no surprise really. I had the lobster ravioli, which had slim to no seafood flavor. However, it was a delicious sauce and the ravioli was really very tasty. My husband had the winner – a veal dish with spinach, prosciutto and mozzarella. After dinner, they bring over a cart with drinks – also on the house. My husband went with the limoncello and I had a concoction made with Sambuca and coffee liqueur. Very good service.
15 East, 15th St. between Union Square and 5th
I am EXTREMELY picky about my sushi. So while I have eaten it over the past ten years, I feel like I haven’t had decent sushi since I left NY. So this is where I chose to get my fix (Union Square area). It was wonderful. We sat at the sushi bar and ordered both the sushi and sashimi omakase (chef’s choice). I don’t remember all the different kinds of fish (except of course for the toro; who forgets toro?), but it was all fresh and clean-tasting, and I loved watching the chef take such great care with it – truly an artist. I do remember the tab here because it’s rare that we have a $100 lunch! (including sake). Worth every penny, and actually a great value at lunchtime, imo.
La Sirène , Broome St., just off Varick
This turned out to be our favorite meal of the trip. It’s a little BYOB French place, overlooking the beautiful entrance and backed-up traffic to the Holland Tunnel. We went with friends who love to share, so here’s what I tried for appetizers: mussels in curry sauce, goat cheese tart, sautéed baby octopus (all were good, but my favorite was the goat cheese tart). Entrées: duck with cherry & port sauce, cassoulet, quail with cranberry sauce, filet mignon with paté (favorite was the duck). The entrées come with a side of 4 vegetables, which was a nice touch. Desserts were an Ile Flottante (I hardly ever see that on menus anymore!) and a baba au rhum-type of cake. It was all delicious. Service was good, despite the fact that just one poor girl was handling the whole restaurant – it’s a small place, but it was crowded. And, of course, the price was right since we brought our own wine. Cash only.
Donut Plant, Chelsea location is 23rd between 7th & 8th
This has become an inside joke with my husband and me since we have been trying to go here for years. The first couple times, something came up and we just couldn’t get down to Grand St (this was before the Chelsea location opened). The last couple times, they’ve been closed! Once it was a regular, weekly closing day I hadn’t been aware of, but the next time there was no indication as to why they were closed. And it was early, so I was pretty sure it wasn’t because they ran out of donuts.
Anyway, as luck would have it, the new location was a block and a half away from our hotel. I felt like I stepped into the Willy Wonka movie - so hard to choose! I ended up with crème brulée, carrot cake, and tres leches for both of us to share. OK, were these the best donuts I ever had in my life? Oh yes. Will they make me a donut person now? No. I’m not into sweets at this stage in my life and I found them very, very sweet. (I know, I wasn’t expecting them not to be – they’re donuts after all). But when my sweet tooth comes back, and I know it will, Donut Plant will be on the list. Very fresh and wonderful flavors.
Birreria , In Eataly - 5th bet. 23rd and 24th
We went here for lunch with a beer-loving friend. I really liked the space, although I somehow missed the “view” that people seem to talk about. It was overcast, so perhaps that why. Or maybe I’m just too short. Anyway, after all the meat at dinner the night before, I was looking forward to something lighter (orange and ginger beer is light, no?). I ordered roasted mushrooms and Brussels sprouts, which came on a bed of Pecorino crema. EXACTLY what I wanted. Our friend raved about the lamb sandwich (and the fried fingerlings were delicious) and my husband liked the pork shoulder. Very good service.
Spain, West 13th Street, between 6th and 7th
Oh, there’s a story behind this one. My husband had his first foodie experience at this restaurant about FORTY years ago. For some reason, he had thought it closed but found out recently it was still open. So despite misgivings on my part (it’s not in Zagat’s and the reviews I found on-line were less than compelling), how could I not indulge my husband in trying to relive an experience from his youth? The space is older than dirt, but has its charms in that regard. I believe the bartender has been working there since it opened in 1967. No judgment with that statement – just a statement. And I like “old-timey” waiters, for lack of a better word. When you sit down, they bring you bread, some marinated mussels, sliced sausage (which I think was supposed to be chorizo) and spare ribs. My husband ordered the zarzuela (seafood stew), which is the dish he had 40 years ago. I went with something I deemed “safe” – paella. Most of the dishes were pretty flavorless, extremely salty, and much of the seafood was overcooked. However, it wasn’t so bad that we couldn’t eat anything - although I did eat a lot less than I normally do. BUT – there were definitely regulars in there, so clearly it has its appeal for some folks, and the menu is large, so perhaps they do a few dishes well. I think the highest compliment we gave was “I’ve had worse sangria.” Good service, cash only, cheap cheap cheap.
Nuela, 24th bet. 5th and 6th
We met friends here for happy hour and appetizers before a show. I actually wasn’t even expecting a happy hour, but they do have drink specials from 5-7: a few of their specialty cocktails, and 2 or 3 different reds and whites by the glass – half-price, I think. It was early, so we had the place to ourselves for awhile. The bartender couldn’t have been sweeter or more accommodating, even as he started to get more customers. Let’s see, we had an empanada trio, a fava bean salad, charred octopus with potato puree and some fried potatoes (which were pretty much ginormous french fries, but very good) – not to mention the cocktails and wine. Good apps – I liked this place. I’d like to go back and try some of their ceviches.
Bella Vita
I got so engrossed in the hat exhibit Uptown that we were running behind heading to our matinee, so essentially had to skip lunch. But we were starving and stopped in here for a slice (it’s somewhere in Times Square). Yeah, not a good slice, but that didn’t shock me. Odd that I remembered the name, though (maybe so I won’t dilly dally elsewhere again before heading to the TD!).
Murray’s, Several locations, 8th bet. 23rd and 22nd
I usually go back to the old ‘hood for bagels (76th and York), but Murray’s was so close. My husband and I started a tradition after I left NY of eating bagels and lox while watching the parade. A couple years ago, we brought them TO the parade to eat. But this year, we had them at the hotel while watching on TV. I like Murray’s a lot (although not as much as MY bagel place). Not much else to say. Bagels and lox (nova, actually) make me SO happy.
Nom Wah Tea Parlor, In an alley in Chinatown (not quite, but close)
Our last meal in New York was spent with friends and their children at the Nom Wah Tea Parlor in Chinatown (I think this was an Adu rec, so thank you!). You order dim sum off a menu here, no carts. Let’s see if I can remember everything we had: spring rolls, chicken feet, scallion pancakes, turnip cakes, shrimp rice roll, egg rolls, stuffed eggplant, pork buns, sticky rice, and several different kinds of dumplings. We all enjoyed everything (although the kids pretty much stuck to the spring rolls!).
I’m always torn between going back to old favorites – especially to share them with my husband – or trying new (for me) places. This time, the latter won out.
By the way, I know prices are useful to people, but I just found out this A.M. that my husband accidentally threw out all of our receipts, notes, playbills, etc. from the trip. Sigh. So I’ll do what I can by memory.
Antica Venezia, West St. at W. 10th
I chose this place because I got a “Savored” discount and it was convenient to our plans. Despite being ON the West Side Highway, the ambiance inside is very nice, very intimate. The waiter sort of did this Mafioso routine, which I guess could have been funny, but I just found it goofy. Unless, of course, he wasn’t kidding. ;-)
Anyway, the food was pretty good. They brought us some bruschetta and fried zucchini on the house. We shared a Caprese-type salad to start. The mozzarella was wonderful, as were the mushrooms and roasted peppers. The tomato was, well, a November tomato, but it was no surprise really. I had the lobster ravioli, which had slim to no seafood flavor. However, it was a delicious sauce and the ravioli was really very tasty. My husband had the winner – a veal dish with spinach, prosciutto and mozzarella. After dinner, they bring over a cart with drinks – also on the house. My husband went with the limoncello and I had a concoction made with Sambuca and coffee liqueur. Very good service.
15 East, 15th St. between Union Square and 5th
I am EXTREMELY picky about my sushi. So while I have eaten it over the past ten years, I feel like I haven’t had decent sushi since I left NY. So this is where I chose to get my fix (Union Square area). It was wonderful. We sat at the sushi bar and ordered both the sushi and sashimi omakase (chef’s choice). I don’t remember all the different kinds of fish (except of course for the toro; who forgets toro?), but it was all fresh and clean-tasting, and I loved watching the chef take such great care with it – truly an artist. I do remember the tab here because it’s rare that we have a $100 lunch! (including sake). Worth every penny, and actually a great value at lunchtime, imo.
La Sirène , Broome St., just off Varick
This turned out to be our favorite meal of the trip. It’s a little BYOB French place, overlooking the beautiful entrance and backed-up traffic to the Holland Tunnel. We went with friends who love to share, so here’s what I tried for appetizers: mussels in curry sauce, goat cheese tart, sautéed baby octopus (all were good, but my favorite was the goat cheese tart). Entrées: duck with cherry & port sauce, cassoulet, quail with cranberry sauce, filet mignon with paté (favorite was the duck). The entrées come with a side of 4 vegetables, which was a nice touch. Desserts were an Ile Flottante (I hardly ever see that on menus anymore!) and a baba au rhum-type of cake. It was all delicious. Service was good, despite the fact that just one poor girl was handling the whole restaurant – it’s a small place, but it was crowded. And, of course, the price was right since we brought our own wine. Cash only.
Donut Plant, Chelsea location is 23rd between 7th & 8th
This has become an inside joke with my husband and me since we have been trying to go here for years. The first couple times, something came up and we just couldn’t get down to Grand St (this was before the Chelsea location opened). The last couple times, they’ve been closed! Once it was a regular, weekly closing day I hadn’t been aware of, but the next time there was no indication as to why they were closed. And it was early, so I was pretty sure it wasn’t because they ran out of donuts.
Anyway, as luck would have it, the new location was a block and a half away from our hotel. I felt like I stepped into the Willy Wonka movie - so hard to choose! I ended up with crème brulée, carrot cake, and tres leches for both of us to share. OK, were these the best donuts I ever had in my life? Oh yes. Will they make me a donut person now? No. I’m not into sweets at this stage in my life and I found them very, very sweet. (I know, I wasn’t expecting them not to be – they’re donuts after all). But when my sweet tooth comes back, and I know it will, Donut Plant will be on the list. Very fresh and wonderful flavors.
Birreria , In Eataly - 5th bet. 23rd and 24th
We went here for lunch with a beer-loving friend. I really liked the space, although I somehow missed the “view” that people seem to talk about. It was overcast, so perhaps that why. Or maybe I’m just too short. Anyway, after all the meat at dinner the night before, I was looking forward to something lighter (orange and ginger beer is light, no?). I ordered roasted mushrooms and Brussels sprouts, which came on a bed of Pecorino crema. EXACTLY what I wanted. Our friend raved about the lamb sandwich (and the fried fingerlings were delicious) and my husband liked the pork shoulder. Very good service.
Spain, West 13th Street, between 6th and 7th
Oh, there’s a story behind this one. My husband had his first foodie experience at this restaurant about FORTY years ago. For some reason, he had thought it closed but found out recently it was still open. So despite misgivings on my part (it’s not in Zagat’s and the reviews I found on-line were less than compelling), how could I not indulge my husband in trying to relive an experience from his youth? The space is older than dirt, but has its charms in that regard. I believe the bartender has been working there since it opened in 1967. No judgment with that statement – just a statement. And I like “old-timey” waiters, for lack of a better word. When you sit down, they bring you bread, some marinated mussels, sliced sausage (which I think was supposed to be chorizo) and spare ribs. My husband ordered the zarzuela (seafood stew), which is the dish he had 40 years ago. I went with something I deemed “safe” – paella. Most of the dishes were pretty flavorless, extremely salty, and much of the seafood was overcooked. However, it wasn’t so bad that we couldn’t eat anything - although I did eat a lot less than I normally do. BUT – there were definitely regulars in there, so clearly it has its appeal for some folks, and the menu is large, so perhaps they do a few dishes well. I think the highest compliment we gave was “I’ve had worse sangria.” Good service, cash only, cheap cheap cheap.
Nuela, 24th bet. 5th and 6th
We met friends here for happy hour and appetizers before a show. I actually wasn’t even expecting a happy hour, but they do have drink specials from 5-7: a few of their specialty cocktails, and 2 or 3 different reds and whites by the glass – half-price, I think. It was early, so we had the place to ourselves for awhile. The bartender couldn’t have been sweeter or more accommodating, even as he started to get more customers. Let’s see, we had an empanada trio, a fava bean salad, charred octopus with potato puree and some fried potatoes (which were pretty much ginormous french fries, but very good) – not to mention the cocktails and wine. Good apps – I liked this place. I’d like to go back and try some of their ceviches.
Bella Vita
I got so engrossed in the hat exhibit Uptown that we were running behind heading to our matinee, so essentially had to skip lunch. But we were starving and stopped in here for a slice (it’s somewhere in Times Square). Yeah, not a good slice, but that didn’t shock me. Odd that I remembered the name, though (maybe so I won’t dilly dally elsewhere again before heading to the TD!).
Murray’s, Several locations, 8th bet. 23rd and 22nd
I usually go back to the old ‘hood for bagels (76th and York), but Murray’s was so close. My husband and I started a tradition after I left NY of eating bagels and lox while watching the parade. A couple years ago, we brought them TO the parade to eat. But this year, we had them at the hotel while watching on TV. I like Murray’s a lot (although not as much as MY bagel place). Not much else to say. Bagels and lox (nova, actually) make me SO happy.
Nom Wah Tea Parlor, In an alley in Chinatown (not quite, but close)
Our last meal in New York was spent with friends and their children at the Nom Wah Tea Parlor in Chinatown (I think this was an Adu rec, so thank you!). You order dim sum off a menu here, no carts. Let’s see if I can remember everything we had: spring rolls, chicken feet, scallion pancakes, turnip cakes, shrimp rice roll, egg rolls, stuffed eggplant, pork buns, sticky rice, and several different kinds of dumplings. We all enjoyed everything (although the kids pretty much stuck to the spring rolls!).
