Carmel and the Monterey Peninsula
Mar 16th, 2004, 06:29 AM
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Carmel and the Monterey Peninsula
Yes, another post about this area. We're a family of 4, 2 kids, we're active, and like nature, the outdoors, hiking, etc. In mid May, we're staying in Carmel for 4 days (then on to San Francisco).
Can you recommend some good restaurants for well-behaved kids who are adventurous eaters? No chains for us! We're most interested in seafood (saving ethnic for S.F.). Also, good places to pick up food for picnic lunches.
On the list so far, amidst an attempt to have a more leisurely time, are Big Basin State Park, Santa Cruz's Boardwalk, the Monterey Aquarium, glass-bottom boat in Monterey, Point Lobos State Park (some of us will ride bikes to there), drive down to Big Sur & the state parks thataway. Anything else?
I had planned that we would stop at Big Basin on our first day, on the way from the San Francisco airport down to Carmel. After reading recent posts and details about the other parks, though, I'm wondering whether we'll get enough views of redwoods on other hikes in other parks. Any opinion on this? Other suggestions about how to schedule that first day (the Boardwalk is another possibility, though not MY first choice for our first day in CA)? We'll arrive at SFO at about 11 am.
Thanks!
Can you recommend some good restaurants for well-behaved kids who are adventurous eaters? No chains for us! We're most interested in seafood (saving ethnic for S.F.). Also, good places to pick up food for picnic lunches.
On the list so far, amidst an attempt to have a more leisurely time, are Big Basin State Park, Santa Cruz's Boardwalk, the Monterey Aquarium, glass-bottom boat in Monterey, Point Lobos State Park (some of us will ride bikes to there), drive down to Big Sur & the state parks thataway. Anything else?
I had planned that we would stop at Big Basin on our first day, on the way from the San Francisco airport down to Carmel. After reading recent posts and details about the other parks, though, I'm wondering whether we'll get enough views of redwoods on other hikes in other parks. Any opinion on this? Other suggestions about how to schedule that first day (the Boardwalk is another possibility, though not MY first choice for our first day in CA)? We'll arrive at SFO at about 11 am.
Thanks!
Mar 16th, 2004, 07:00 AM
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I can't speak to the Big Basin State Park, we haven't been there, but we were just in Monterey last month and we LOVE Point Lobos. We always plan a whole day and hike around the park. Also the beach in Carmel is one of my favorites and you can rent kayaks in Monterey, check out Monterey Bay Kayaks and either kayak in the bay or take a day trip to the Elkhorn Slough. We have an 11 year old and he still loves the Dennis the Menace playground in Monterey. My husband played there when he was little and it's definitely a family favorite. As far as restaurants go, try the Fishwife in Pacific Grove. It is our favorite, definitely not chain type food. Have a great trip!
Mar 16th, 2004, 07:40 AM
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OK, I'll toss in my two cents, knowing that this will invite the wrath of some people.
If you plan to go to Big Basin, you should plan on expending one of your four days just for this park. It is NOT easy of access. I live quite close to the BACK way in, which is from Saratoga (you can't really get into Big Basin this way from San Francisco without making a long detour). Even from the back way in, it's a good hour and a half drive in on windey roads which gets increasingly more windey the closer you get to the park. Also the road gets narrower and narrower.
From San Francisco, you should plan on at least a two hour drive into Big Basin - in - then another hour and a half to two hours to get out to go wherever you want to go.
The roads may not look too long, but you cannot speed, because of the windiness.
The point is: what are you getting after all this effort? You will see some very magnificent redwoods and hike along some wonderful hiking trails. The vast majority of the hiking trails require at least a day's stay for full appreciation. Many people, even from local areas like Santa Cruz or Saratoga, plan on OVERNIGHT stays in Big Basin.
The trails: except for the immediate area around the Ranger Station, the trails would be moderate to difficult climbs. Definitely NOT for amateur hikers. Can you take children? Sure, if you are an experienced hiker yourself, know what to do, know how long your kids can hike, etc.
Point Lobos this is NOT.
The critical question is: can you see pretty much the same thing elsewhere and with considerable less effort? Definitely!
If you are going to Big Sur, you have a choice of a number of wonderful hikes with parking which is almost just off the road, Highway 1.
I have a California State Park Permit that is an annual permit and I go hiking all over the state.
One of the first state parks is Andrew Molera St Park. You could just drive off the Highway and park and go hike, especially along the beach. However, I would suggest that if you are going to hike the beach, then you should take up denise's suggestion above and go to Point Lobos. It's truly beautiful at Point Lobos.
The next park is Pfeiffer Big Sur St Park. You could do a hike here. The redwoods that you will see here are the same as those you will see in Big Basin. At Pfeiffer Big Sur St Park, you could do the 1.6 mile hike to see Pfeiffer Falls. It'll take about an hour.
The next state park is the usual recommended one: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, it's an easy hike to see McVey Falls. It's only 0.5 mile hike along very level ground.
A bit further away is Limekiln State Park which is very small and is at about the southernmost boundary of the redwood groves. It's not as much visited as the other parks, but there is a beautiful redwood forest inside. The hike is about 1.8 miles and would be about an hour.
I would recommend that you do: Point Lobos, Julia Pfeiffer Burns St Park, and, if you still want to, hike Pfeiffer Big Sur also. If you are a diehard hiker, then do all of them, including Andrew Molera and Limekiln. Skip Big Basin. For the amount of time that you expend on Big Basin, one park, you could spend along the entire Big Sur Coast.
Place for children in Monterey: I usually recommend the Hog's Breath Restaurant, which used to be partly owned by Clint Eastwood and is still in the Eastwood Building. Very much an imitation British "inn", including its name. Big roaring fireplaces, indoors and out, fun place and a different place. Your kids will enjoy it.
Happy hiking! Bring water!
If you plan to go to Big Basin, you should plan on expending one of your four days just for this park. It is NOT easy of access. I live quite close to the BACK way in, which is from Saratoga (you can't really get into Big Basin this way from San Francisco without making a long detour). Even from the back way in, it's a good hour and a half drive in on windey roads which gets increasingly more windey the closer you get to the park. Also the road gets narrower and narrower.
From San Francisco, you should plan on at least a two hour drive into Big Basin - in - then another hour and a half to two hours to get out to go wherever you want to go.
The roads may not look too long, but you cannot speed, because of the windiness.
The point is: what are you getting after all this effort? You will see some very magnificent redwoods and hike along some wonderful hiking trails. The vast majority of the hiking trails require at least a day's stay for full appreciation. Many people, even from local areas like Santa Cruz or Saratoga, plan on OVERNIGHT stays in Big Basin.
The trails: except for the immediate area around the Ranger Station, the trails would be moderate to difficult climbs. Definitely NOT for amateur hikers. Can you take children? Sure, if you are an experienced hiker yourself, know what to do, know how long your kids can hike, etc.
Point Lobos this is NOT.
The critical question is: can you see pretty much the same thing elsewhere and with considerable less effort? Definitely!
If you are going to Big Sur, you have a choice of a number of wonderful hikes with parking which is almost just off the road, Highway 1.
I have a California State Park Permit that is an annual permit and I go hiking all over the state.
One of the first state parks is Andrew Molera St Park. You could just drive off the Highway and park and go hike, especially along the beach. However, I would suggest that if you are going to hike the beach, then you should take up denise's suggestion above and go to Point Lobos. It's truly beautiful at Point Lobos.
The next park is Pfeiffer Big Sur St Park. You could do a hike here. The redwoods that you will see here are the same as those you will see in Big Basin. At Pfeiffer Big Sur St Park, you could do the 1.6 mile hike to see Pfeiffer Falls. It'll take about an hour.
The next state park is the usual recommended one: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, it's an easy hike to see McVey Falls. It's only 0.5 mile hike along very level ground.
A bit further away is Limekiln State Park which is very small and is at about the southernmost boundary of the redwood groves. It's not as much visited as the other parks, but there is a beautiful redwood forest inside. The hike is about 1.8 miles and would be about an hour.
I would recommend that you do: Point Lobos, Julia Pfeiffer Burns St Park, and, if you still want to, hike Pfeiffer Big Sur also. If you are a diehard hiker, then do all of them, including Andrew Molera and Limekiln. Skip Big Basin. For the amount of time that you expend on Big Basin, one park, you could spend along the entire Big Sur Coast.
Place for children in Monterey: I usually recommend the Hog's Breath Restaurant, which used to be partly owned by Clint Eastwood and is still in the Eastwood Building. Very much an imitation British "inn", including its name. Big roaring fireplaces, indoors and out, fun place and a different place. Your kids will enjoy it.
Happy hiking! Bring water!
Mar 16th, 2004, 07:42 AM
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You mention you'll be cycling to Pt. Lobos (excellent choice!), and here's another great ride.
Unless the rules have recently changed, you can cycle the spectacular 17-Mile Drive for free. Start at the Carmel gate and go all the way to Pacific Grove -- or just as part way.
Unless the rules have recently changed, you can cycle the spectacular 17-Mile Drive for free. Start at the Carmel gate and go all the way to Pacific Grove -- or just as part way.
Mar 16th, 2004, 08:19 AM
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Another vote for Fishwife. I had never been there, but heard lots of good things about it so a couple weeks ago my husband and I went over there to check it out. It was very good. The clam chowder was excellent.
Off Hwy 1 between Monterey and Santa Cruz there are a couple good places to eat in Moss Landing. Phil's Fish Market makes great clam chowder as well as other seafood items. The Whole Enchilada serves some good Mexican food.
If you happen to be in downtown Santa Cruz around lunch or dinner and are interested in Mexican food, check out El Palomar on Pacific. For seafood, I like to go to Stagnaros on the wharf.
For activities:
I think that with Big Sur you will see plenty of redwoods, but if you feel you haven't seen enough, make a stop in Felton on your way back to SF. Felton is only a 10-15 minute drive from Hwy 17 at Scotts Valley so it's a lot easier to get to than Big Basin. Henry Cowell State Park is there as well as Roaring Camp where you can ride a steam train through the woods.
The Boardwalk would definitely be on my list, esspecially with the kids. If you have time while you are there, drive out West Cliff Drive to the lighthouse. This is a famous spot for surfers and if the waves are right you might see some world class surfing there. And the lighthouse has been turned into a surf museum.
The aquarium is great. You could do that and a boat trip out on the bay in the same day. I've never been on a glass bottomed boat on the bay so I don't know how much you can see. The water isn't known for being clear. I've been out on the bay in regular boats several times though and it's a lot of fun. The views are great.
Point Lobos is also great. A definite must see.
Off Hwy 1 between Monterey and Santa Cruz there are a couple good places to eat in Moss Landing. Phil's Fish Market makes great clam chowder as well as other seafood items. The Whole Enchilada serves some good Mexican food.
If you happen to be in downtown Santa Cruz around lunch or dinner and are interested in Mexican food, check out El Palomar on Pacific. For seafood, I like to go to Stagnaros on the wharf.
For activities:
I think that with Big Sur you will see plenty of redwoods, but if you feel you haven't seen enough, make a stop in Felton on your way back to SF. Felton is only a 10-15 minute drive from Hwy 17 at Scotts Valley so it's a lot easier to get to than Big Basin. Henry Cowell State Park is there as well as Roaring Camp where you can ride a steam train through the woods.
The Boardwalk would definitely be on my list, esspecially with the kids. If you have time while you are there, drive out West Cliff Drive to the lighthouse. This is a famous spot for surfers and if the waves are right you might see some world class surfing there. And the lighthouse has been turned into a surf museum.
The aquarium is great. You could do that and a boat trip out on the bay in the same day. I've never been on a glass bottomed boat on the bay so I don't know how much you can see. The water isn't known for being clear. I've been out on the bay in regular boats several times though and it's a lot of fun. The views are great.
Point Lobos is also great. A definite must see.
Mar 16th, 2004, 09:51 AM
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Another vote for the Fishwife, also recommend the Monterey Fish House and Passionfish. Re pinic fixings, we always stop at the Safeway on Rio Rd. just before driving down 1. I know there is at least one upscale place in Carmel (on Ocean I believe) where you can pick up pinic supplies, however the Safeway deli has pretty much everything we want for a pinic so it has become part of our routine, and we don't have to pay gourmet prices.
Mar 16th, 2004, 10:06 AM
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There are some nice little mom-n-pop grocery stores in the area that are not exactly gourmet, but offer more interesting items than the Safeway--you'll see them as you drive around. One of my favorites used to be the one near the Del Monte shopping center, in a little strip mall, but I haven't been there in years. Safeway is cool, but CA offers such diversity and quality of foods, it seems a shame to get what you get anywhere. (On the other hand, even Safeway has great bread and cheese.)
My favorite restaurants for casual meals are Pasta Mia in PG; Gianni's Pizza in M.; Sea Harvest, locations in Monterey and Carmel; Monterey's Fish House; Ichiban in M. (yep, Japanese); Taste in PG. Rio Grill in the Carmel Crossroads center and Montrio in downtown Monterey are slightly more formal, CA cuisine (this being CA, nothing is really formal, and your kids would be fine here). And Chevy's is a Mexican chain in Carmel Crossroads that is quite good despite being a chain (it touts fresh ingredients)and has a fun tortilla making machine that seems to interest kids.
Enjoy!
My favorite restaurants for casual meals are Pasta Mia in PG; Gianni's Pizza in M.; Sea Harvest, locations in Monterey and Carmel; Monterey's Fish House; Ichiban in M. (yep, Japanese); Taste in PG. Rio Grill in the Carmel Crossroads center and Montrio in downtown Monterey are slightly more formal, CA cuisine (this being CA, nothing is really formal, and your kids would be fine here). And Chevy's is a Mexican chain in Carmel Crossroads that is quite good despite being a chain (it touts fresh ingredients)and has a fun tortilla making machine that seems to interest kids.
Enjoy!
Mar 16th, 2004, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for all of the helpful responses; keep them coming!
Easytraveler, especially thanks for the helpful info re Big Basin. We live in the Rocky Mtns. and hike most weekends in the summer, so we're used to pretty strenuous high-altitude (day) hikes - I'm guessing that California hikes should be not a problem for us. But because of the time into Big Basin, I'm thinking we might choose to spend more time at the other parks; the primary reason for choosing that park is the redwoods (which my alpine children have never seen, of course).
If there are any other somewhat-longer hikes in any of the state parks, please give suggestions (the guidebooks list mostly the shorter ones). And, in case we decide to visit Big Basin after all, some of your favorites there, in the 5-mile (total) range.
And a final question on Big Basin, I was thinking we'd take 280 south from San Francisco, then 85, which appears to circle San Jose to the south, then exit at Saratoga or the next exit, and take what looks like highway 9, then 236, for 21 miles from Saratoga into the park. This sounds like the "back way," but it also looks like the most direct from S.F. Is my map-reading incorrect?
Easytraveler, especially thanks for the helpful info re Big Basin. We live in the Rocky Mtns. and hike most weekends in the summer, so we're used to pretty strenuous high-altitude (day) hikes - I'm guessing that California hikes should be not a problem for us. But because of the time into Big Basin, I'm thinking we might choose to spend more time at the other parks; the primary reason for choosing that park is the redwoods (which my alpine children have never seen, of course).
If there are any other somewhat-longer hikes in any of the state parks, please give suggestions (the guidebooks list mostly the shorter ones). And, in case we decide to visit Big Basin after all, some of your favorites there, in the 5-mile (total) range.
And a final question on Big Basin, I was thinking we'd take 280 south from San Francisco, then 85, which appears to circle San Jose to the south, then exit at Saratoga or the next exit, and take what looks like highway 9, then 236, for 21 miles from Saratoga into the park. This sounds like the "back way," but it also looks like the most direct from S.F. Is my map-reading incorrect?
Mar 16th, 2004, 08:37 PM
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Actually the most direct way to Big Basin is 280 to 17 then Mount Herman Road to Graham Hill Road to Highway 9 and Big Basin Way. It's route #1 on the Big Basin website.
http://bigbasin.org/travelbasicsmain.html#directions
Plan to get to Big Basin in the morning for fewer crowds and cooler weather. You might consider staying in San Jose the night before going to Big Basin since it's only about 15 miles from the city. You could also make this a little sidetriop from SF. Your kids would probably enjoy the Tech Museum as well as the Children's Discovery Musem in Downtown San Jose. Traffic heading from SF into San Jose in the morning can be a pain. I'd plan on about 2-2.5 hours to get to Big Basin from SF, even on a weekend. The traffic heading out San Jose toward Big Basin and Santa Cruz should not be a problem since commuters are going in the opposite direction toward the city.
Have a nice trip.
http://bigbasin.org/travelbasicsmain.html#directions
Plan to get to Big Basin in the morning for fewer crowds and cooler weather. You might consider staying in San Jose the night before going to Big Basin since it's only about 15 miles from the city. You could also make this a little sidetriop from SF. Your kids would probably enjoy the Tech Museum as well as the Children's Discovery Musem in Downtown San Jose. Traffic heading from SF into San Jose in the morning can be a pain. I'd plan on about 2-2.5 hours to get to Big Basin from SF, even on a weekend. The traffic heading out San Jose toward Big Basin and Santa Cruz should not be a problem since commuters are going in the opposite direction toward the city.
Have a nice trip.
Mar 17th, 2004, 08:12 AM
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I take the Saratoga Route to Big Basin since I live in San Jose. It is indeed the back way. It is shorter than doing the hwy 17 route, but it does take longer - unless you are going over at a time when there is a lot of traffic on Hwy 17. Then Hwy 9 is faster. The road is very curvey on that side of the mountain so it is slow going. It's a nice drive though and if you aren't in a big hurry, it's a good route.
