Cape Cod at Thanksgiving? Which town for B&B?
 

Hello Fodorites --
My DH and I would like to have a quiet Thanksgiving on our own this year and are thinking of escaping to Cape Cod for the long weekend. The last time he was there he was a child, and for me it was in the late 1990s. We're both in our early 40s, very active and usually spend the holiday visiting family but this year we just need a rest and need to be alone.

We would like to stay in a B&B or an inn where we can sit and read or have a drink or do the crossword puzzle -- nothing super fancy and definitely nothing very Victorian/frou-frou, but a fireplace would be amazing. We'd also like to walk around a town that's mostly open during the holiday weekend, get a burger and a beer, hunt through an antique store or two, and go wandering on a beach. We're not looking for a Thanksgiving meal -- as much as we want to be alone, we will probably stop on the way up from NYC at DH's brother's family outside of Boston for Thanksgiving lunch before heading out to the Cape in the late afternoon.

One, in the late 1980s, I visited Chatham and it seemed lovely. I like the idea that it's at the "elbow" and we could do day trips up and down. Would that be a good choice for the holiday weekend?

As for budget, up to $200 a night (for the 3 nights of the holiday weekend) is our top price.

Thanks for any advice.

Chatham does certainly have a lot of the town aspects you're looking for. The Cape really shuts down after Columbus Day, but Chatham will still have some restaurants and shops open, and at that time of year even Chatham Bars Inn might descend into your price range(!). The Impudent Oyster is a classic restaurant in town; the Chatham Squire the local pub and popular hangout. However, take note that Chatham is a little out of the way to get all the way down to the elbow, so don't expect a quick trip from being in town there to, say, Provincetown or Hyannis...

I was going to suggest the lovely Captain Farris House for your b&b. The village of Bass River in Yarmouth is centrally located for seeing other parts of the Cape. However, there's not necessarily a lot going on in the town itself at that time of year, and even the b&b might be closed.

These are threads about the Cape in the off-season that might help you:

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...short-time.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...ionsadvice.cfm

Cooke's seafood on Route 28 in Hyannis (about 4 miles off US 6) closes after Thanksgiving weekend, but I can't recommend it highly enough for simple fried and broiled fish and shellfish. A family operation, impeccably clean, fairly priced.

When people ask my wife where to find the best lobster roll on Nantucket, she says, "Cooke's in Hyannis!"

Wellfleet has its oysterfest in mid-October. It's very popular and, if the weather is good, a fun time.

It's not too far from Chatham.

Should have added that, although it doesn't fit your midway location. the Crowne Pointe Inn in Provincetown sounds as though it would meet your other requirements. The rooms have fireplaces. Provincetown hasn't completely shut down by Thanksgiving.

http://www.crownepointe.com/

Thank you for the prompt replies; I knew I could count on Fodorites to steer me in the right direction. These are wonderful places to start our research.

How far a ride is Provincetown? I guess what I'm asking is if the entire Cape is a very long drive from end to end?

thanks

Cape Cod is about 70 miles long, and figure Chatham is roughly at the half-way point.

hikrchick: Take a look at the Nantucket Cottage at Fort Hill B&B in Eastham. It might already be booked but if it's available it will be a very special stay. The B&B is right in the National Seashore. It's a quick drive from there (20 minutes or so) into Chatham.

You should also take a look at The Wayside Inn and the Bradford Inn, both in Chatham. Take a look at Ocean House in Dennis for a great Thanksgiving dinner experience. Also, many restaurants will be open in Provincetown on that day.

I think Chatham and its environs is the perfect place to base yourselves. Take a look at the hotels and B&Bs in Chatham on the Trip Advisor Cape Cod Hotels page. Not all reflect a faded Laura Ashley sensibility. Fort Hill in Eastham is definitely upscale, not frou frou at all. Take a look at the Wequassett Inn in Chatham too. Their restaurant is superb and the Inn is one of the nicest in the area, imo. as is Chatham Bars Inn.

Chatham IS the 'elbow' of the Cape, Falmouth is the 'armpit' so to speak, and Provincetown is the 'fist' of the bent arm of the Cape. It's about a 30-60 minute drive from the bridges to Chatham, depending on traffic, and a 35-45 minute drive from Chatham to Provincetown.

Although traffic will be less than what is experienced during high season (now), it will still be something to plan around a little bit. It's a big weekend with people driving to and from the Cape.

Just saw your budget. The inns I've suggested in Chahtam may likely be out of your range but it's worth a try to call them and ask. You might be able to book a room at Fort Hill B&B but I think the cottage will be expensive. Sometimes Chatham Bars Inn has outrageous specials that will get you in a room for under $200.00 but it's doubtful you'd find that at Thanksgiving.

Take a look at The Cove Motel (nicer than it sounds! promise!) in Orleans. Chatham Tides Motel has rooms that overlook the Nantucket Sound and other rooms that are directly beachfront. There are a few B&B's in Harwichport that also front Nantucket Sound that might be in your budget.

Alyce's Dunscroft by the Sea-Harwichport, MA
The Commodore-West Harwich, MA

Using Route 6, from the Canal to Chatham I would leave yourself 45 minutes. From Chatham to P-town is another 30-40 minutes. Note that east of Dennis, Route 6 narrows down from a 2 lanes in each direction divided highway, and travel becomes much slower. Good thing is that in the off-season, that traffic is much less!

You should be fine driving to the Cape from outside Boston on the afternoon of Thanksgiving. Just remember that travel throughout the area will be a zoo on the Sunday at the end of the weekend! If you can stay the extra day and drive home on Monday, you'll be a lot better off.

The traffic on the bridges last Thanksgiving was pretty much bumper to bumper. Give yourself enough time or get on Cape on Wednesday night. We usually leave the Cape late on Saturday afternoon to avoid a lot of the mess that Sunday traffic can bring. Traffic, as I said, isn' the overriding issue it is during the summer.

You should also consider staying in Provincetown for a cozy long weekend.

EmilyPost, what time of day was that? We drove past the approaches to both bridges on our way north to Tday dinner in Plymouth and didn't see any backup. This was around 2 or 3 pm.

I've spent Thanksgivings on the Cape and we had "some" traffic at about noon or one o'clock, but it was not anywhere close to bumper to bumper. Lots of people go to the family home for the holiday, I think. The OP would be traveling to the Cape late afternoon or early evening, and I would imagine any of the holiday dinner traffic would be long gone.

Even if it isn't, the traffic was fine by Cape standards.

What EmilyPost said. The Cove www.thecoveorleans is quite nice. It is on the Town Cove so some rooms have waterviews and fireplaces. Orleans would be perfect for walking around and visiting shops and restaurants. It also has easy access to Nauset Beach. Wellfleet and Provincetown would be an easy ride if you wanted to visit those towns.

Hi, we were going over the bridges around 10:00 in the morning on Tgiving and we do this every year. There's a website or phone number that can be checked for current updated Cape traffic patterns. If I find it I'll post it here. It's very helpful.

Platinum Pebble Inn in West Harwich. Centrally located on the Cape. Lovely innkeepers. Beautiful 1800s sea captain's home restored with a modern flair, yet with reverence for the home's historic significance.

http://www.platinumpebble.com/

Call 511 for traffic info. Or tune to AM-1030 on the radio for traffic reports "on the 3's" (e.g., 8:03, 8:13, 8:23, etc.).

<i>Hi, we were going over the bridges around 10:00 in the morning on Tgiving</i>

EmilyPost, the OP states <i>we will probably stop on the way up from NYC at DH's brother's family outside of Boston for Thanksgiving lunch before heading out to the Cape <u>in the late afternoon</u>.</i>

That's the difference. As cw said and I've witnessed, there's no negligible traffic later in the day.

// caper64, that's exactly how I'd describe the Captain Farris House! I'll have to add Platinum Pebble to my list. :)

hkrchick: This is also a good website with real time traffic information

http://www.capecodplus.com/Traffic.html

As you know, Thanksgiving is one of the busiest travel days of the year. Of course you know to allow plenty of time as traffic will impact your travel from NYC>Boston>Cape Cod. Drive safely!

//ggreen ... I'll have to put Capt. Farris House on my "must visit" list, too!

caper64 :)

Hi, I think you would enjoy a nice quite, weekend in Provincetown and I would suggest staying at the Crow's Nest in Truro (not far at all from P-town) it is a lovely place to stay. No, it is not a B&B or an Inn however I think it is even better. It is right on the water and every room has a nice view of Cape Cod bay, fireplace in the living room along with sliding glass doors allowing you to sit on the couch and enjoy the view of the water. They offer studio units, one bedroom and larger and I think it will even be below your price point of $200. We stayed in the off season and it was about $145 a night.
Provincetown is nice and quite in the off season, romantic even.You have the harbor to walk along, the National Seashore is right there so you can take a walk along the beach weather permitting. I am sure many of the shops will be open for the holiday weekend. I would also check out Fanazzi's for lunch or dinner, the food is wonderful and it is on the water.I did this 2 years ago and I loved it!

i suggest that you stay somewhere around Chatham because Hyannis an Yarmouth pretty shut down after Columbus Day. If you can afford Chatham Bars Inn then you should stay there. I think it will fall into your price range. The Chatham Bars also has an amazing restaurant.

Another Chatham alternative, much less expensive than CBI, is the Wayside Inn in downtown Chatham. You might also consider staying at the Hawthorne Inn, same view as CBI but 1/2 the price (or less).