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A week at Folly Beach and Charleston

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A week at Folly Beach and Charleston

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Old Jun 8th, 2010, 11:57 AM
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A week at Folly Beach and Charleston

Hi all. We're back and we survived our road trip from Chicago to Charleston with our 4 yr old and 1 yr old in tow! It was an adventure but we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We took 3 days (2 1/2 days and one full) to drive and the kids did great. Our only incident was "discovering" that our one year old gets carsick in the mountains after he christened the new car back seat with his breakfast! Poor baby. It was so bad we ditched the carseat and went and bought a new one! Our arrival at Folly Beach left me a bit nervous as it was Saturday and inundated with drunken college kids. My initial thought was one of "oh boy, what did we get into," but all that went away when they did on Sunday morning. We later discovered it was graduation weekend at the Citadel and College of Charleston which explained things. Folly definately has a free spirit, hippy community feeling to it but our condo was GREAT! I cannot rave enough about the place-totally kid friendly, great location, great deal, and the bohemian spirit grew on us. We were later thrilled with our Folly choice after seeing how close it is to downtown Charleston compared to Isle of Palms or any of the other beaches. My 4 yr old loved the pier and we spent almost every night on the pier watching the fishermen and searching for jellyfish in the water. The walk out to the lighthouse at the end of Folly Beach was fun too.

Our sightseeing was limited given the kids ages but the waterfront park in Charleston with the fountains and the carriage ride were huge hits. Fort Sumter was interesting although the ferry over was more exciting than the fort and the stay got a little long with little ones.

Our restaurant selections were casual given the 1 yr. old. Fast and French on Broad was great picnic food to take on the boat to the fort. JB's BBQ Shack on John's Island was delicious and definately laid back enough to take the kids. DH and I hit SNOB one night when we were alone. I hate to admit that I was slightly disappointed in it. Maybe we're just spoiled with awesome restaurants in Chicago but the menu didn't appeal to me that much. Taco Boy in Folly was good but we had horrible service, waiting almost 45 minutes for our food, which literally was 3 orders of tacos.

All in all, the trip was great and we would go back in a minute-travelling with little ones definately slows down seasoned travellers but once you accept that, it was all good!

And, a shout out to SueWoo for all her help! Thanks!
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Old Jun 8th, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Hi girl, did you make it to the market? I looked for you.

Yeah Folly's full of drunk kids on weekends. It's the only area beach where it's legal to drink on the beach! I should have warned you.

Too bad about Taco Boy. We went to the one downtown Sunday and just the opposite happened: the food came right out and we had to order more so we could hang around! Same with SNOB. It's pretty lowcountry traditional. Next time try McCrady's. They do that molecular gastronomy. Or High Cotton. See you when you get back! Glad you had fun.
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Old Jun 8th, 2010, 06:18 PM
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We did make it to the market. My husband thought I was crazy b/c I made him stop on our way to Folly since we arrived on Saturday and were leaving on Saturday. Still one of my favorite markets! One day I will buy one of those swamp art blown glass pieces!

SNOB was good, don't get me wrong. We had a flat bread appetizer that was excellent, it was just that nothing really grabbed me for a main course. Next visit will be easier as the kids will be older and we won't feel so bad about imposing on my family who we visited with to babysit!

By the way, next time you're in Folly, check out the crepes at the crepe stand right off the main street. It was right around the corner from us and our favorite dessert after dinner. They have all sorts of savory crepes too but we couldn't make it past the dessert ones. Umm!
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 04:01 AM
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Glad you got a taste of Charleston!

Hurry back for another visit!

Did you see that Southwest will begin flying into CHS next spring? Perhaps flying will solve the car sickness (umm, I still have to plan my driving trips to avoid hills--my 20 year old still gets carsick:-})
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 07:20 AM
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We did see that-it was announced on the news while we were there. I'm totally excited as SWA has a huge hub here at Midway. Anything to avoid that scene again, complete with my 4 yr old being fascinated by your red clay "dirt" while we were cleaning up the car on the side of the road and covering herself in it! Ah, memories!
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 07:26 AM
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Enjoy your little ones now.
They turn into teenagers before you know it

Melissa
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 07:33 AM
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You're right Melissa. My 4 yr old is already 4 going on 14 at times with the attitude. Not looking forward to it...
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 11:15 AM
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Thanks so much for your trip report--I really enjoyed reading it! I have always wanted to visit a beach area in SC, after reading so many Pat Conroy and Dorthea Benton Frank novels! I wasn't sure where to head, but Folly Beach sounds like a great spot. Since you have children, I have a few questions.

What is the beach like for little ones--can you play in the sand there and how about the water? We usually go to Gulf Shores, AL, so that's my point of reference--white sand beaches, clear water (usually) that doesn't have terribly rough waves. I have a 4 year old, so just wanted some more information to get an idea of how he might do there.

Do you recommend getting a condo/beach rental that's beachfront? Or, is that possible there? Was it easy to get to restaurants, grocery stores, etc.? Thanks for anything you can add!
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 12:51 PM
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I hope you took the kids--and you--to teh Aquarium!!
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 12:55 PM
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Lee, the beach was nice. Brown sand, clear water. Haven't been to Gulf Shores but equivalent to Fla. Gulf IMO. Folly has a huge fishing pier right off the downtown which my 4 yr old LOVED. Every night we had to go on the pier and check things out. There is a Holiday Inn right on the beach and a few smaller condo buildings. One of the things I liked is that there aren't huge high rise condo buildings on the beach like you see in Fla.

The waves were fairly mild. We were in the water all the time and never dealt with "scary" waves. There are a handful of restaurants in Folly-Taco Boy (fish taco specialty), a pizza joint, crab shack, and a few others. You don't need to leave Folly to eat out. There are also a few restaurants on the road in right on the water. We ended up eating in alot since our condo had a nice kitchen and grill. Bert's Market is there which is a small grocery store right off the beach. There is also a Piggly Wiggly and a Walmart as you drive in from Charleston proper.

My only "warning" to you on Folly is that it has a definate hippy feel about it with some of the locals. Didn't both us but my if you are looking for a more conservative place.

Our condo was in a great location - 2 short blocks to downtown and less than a block to the beach. Here's the website if you are interested.
http://www.vrbo.com/234372
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 01:36 PM
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The beach and water are very different between Gulf Shores and Charleston area beaches. Charleston beaches have grey, hard-packed sand - very different from the soft, white sand of the Gulf. I prefer SC sand as, while not as pretty, it's more functional for running, walking or throwing the frisbee. And don't expect the water in SC to be clear - it's very rare that you would be able to see your feet in thigh-high water.

As for waves, it depends on weather/currents. You can go from very calm to pretty dangerous from one day to the next, but usually it's pretty mild.

While I like Folly, I tend to prefer Sullivans and Isle of Palms. They're just a bit classier and don't have concrete groins in the surf (but these may not exist in all areas of Folly.
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 04:04 PM
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Lee4, Sullivans Island has some tidal pools on the beach that are perfect for little children. Atlanticville is also there, where one of DBF's characters worked. The crew there is enjoying being famous. It's my favorite restaurant in the area. Rentals there are sparse and somewhat pricey. Nearby IOP has more rental choices and the beach there is nice as well.
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Old Jun 9th, 2010, 06:33 PM
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Thanks, swalter, Brian, and Sue--great information from all of you about the area/beaches, etc. I appreciate the details and comparisons to Gulf Shores and FL beaches. I can't believe the Atlanticville is real--I just finished reading that book! Right now, Folly Beach (beach and community) sounds so good to me--I wish I had some spare vacation money for this summer. This trip will have a to wait a bit, but I'm just thrilled to have it to consider. Thanks again for the information. Guess who will be checking out VRBO tonight??

My husband & and I visited Hilton Head back in the days before we were parents and it was in the winter time. Still, I loved the beach--I'd walk every morning while he was in meetings. I'd love to go back there as well, but when I check into it more (for a summer trip), I find it to be expensive. So, it's nice to look into FB and surrounding areas. I think it would be great to have a beach trip, plus Charleston to explore!
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 05:40 AM
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Didn't know Atlanticville was in a book - we stumbled upon it by accident a couple years ago and had a very good dinner there.

To me, the beach/water in Hilton Head is very similar to the Charleston area beaches. And if you're looking for less expensive digs, Folly is the place to start.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 05:43 AM
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Brian, Atlanticville was featured in "Return to Sullivans Island" by Dorothea Benton Frank.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 06:36 AM
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Gonna have to check out Return to Sullivan's Island now. Read South of Broad before we left and got a kick out of the fact that the cheating husband put his girlfriend up in Folly! Definately alot of characters in Folly but we're good with that!

I didn't notice any concrete barriers in the surf. Must be further down the beach. We were usually not to far off the north side of the pier. We initially picked Folly because it did have some condos available, as opposed to houses which seemed more prevelant in IOP and Sullivan's Island. We just didn't have enough people to justify a house. IOP is very pretty, definately less funky and further away from downtown. We were downtown Charleston every day at some point so we appreciated the ease in getting in and out.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 07:17 AM
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IOP is only about a mile further from dowtown than Folly (and Sullivan's is closer). But I'll have to defer to suewoo on whether traffic makes one closer than the other time-wise.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 07:44 AM
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Folly totes that it is the closest and maybe it was because we were near the market or south of there most of the time but it was traffic free for the most part whereas when we travelled over the bridge to Mt. Pleasant and beyond we hit quite a bit of traffic.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 08:54 AM
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I actually grew up on Folly Beach so have known it for far too many years. Of the Charleston beaches, I would have to say that Folly is the least family friendly. It's the place that locals generally go to drink and party, especially on weekends.

It is the only local beach to allow open containers on the beach itself. Monday mornings often see a beach covered with beer cans.

Folly also has erosion issues, and there are a number of rock and concrete groins along parts of the beach.
Don't mean to sound so negative but it does have some "issues" and I wouldn't choose it as my first place to go with a young family, even given its proximity to the city.

As to costs, I'm not sure that Folly is the big bargain it once was. All the beaches, including Kiawah and Seabrook, have significantly lowered their prices in these hard times. It would be worth it to check out the prices on some of the other places. I think you will be surprised.

We own a place on Kiawah these days and the great attraction is the large number of free family events on the island -- as well as the wide and long beach.
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Old Jun 10th, 2010, 10:31 AM
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Dove, thanks for your thoughts on Folly. Would you share a little more (and anyone else who can give input, please do!)? Since you suggested looking into some of the other Charleston area beaches, here's what I'm looking for. I want a quaint beach area where we can get on and off the beach easily, without much walking from our condo/house. I also want to have cute little restaurants and shops close to where we're staying so that we don't always have to drive. And, I want something affordable. Do any of these others fit the bill?

As I mentioned before, we've gone to Gulf Shores/Orange Beach, AL for years and I do love it there. One thing we've never experienced there, however, is the ability to walk to shops and restaurants easily. You've got to drive to most places, just because of the way the towns are laid out. I have this idealized little vision in my head of mornings on the beach, quick walks to some yummy seafood place for lunch or dinner and cute little ice cream shops nearby for dessert. Does this even exist?
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