Big Sur trip report
 

(Part 1 of 4)<BR><BR>There are so many questions on this forum about Big Sur, but it's rare to see a detailed trip rport, so I thought I'd share my recent experience.<BR><BR>We were lucky to have perfect wether for our four-day coastal getaway duirng the first week of June; warm and crystal clear, with no fog on the coast. We spent our first night in Monterey (staying at my in-laws' weekend place there), and went to the aquarium the next afternoon. Since the Monterey Bay Aquarium is a must-see for those doing the coastal drives, here are some tips: Buy tickets in advance, so you can bypass the line and use a different entrance. If you go on a weekday while school is still in session, go in the afternoon, after the school groups have left. But if you go during the summer or school holidays, go in the morning, when it will be less crowded. When you arrive, check the feeding program schedules, and plan your visit so you can attend the otter, penguin, and fish feeding programs; they are narrated, and the trainers and vets always take questions.<BR><BR>If you have the time, staying overnight in the Big Sur area is a great way to get away from it all. If you can afford the $500+/night for Ventana or Post Ranch Inn, go for it. If not, there are plenty of motel and cabin-style lodging alternatives at reasonable prices. The Chamber of Commerce web site (see below) lists them all. We stayed at the Big Sur Lodge, inside Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, which is inland, rather than on the coast. As with most park lodges, the decor of the duplex cabins is motel-level, inside and out, but we enjoyed our room with queen bed, fireplace, and skylight. Rates here top out at around $200/night for a suite with two queen beds, fireplace, and equipped kitchen and dining area. All the cabins have porches with chairs and there is a pool. Included in the room rate is a day use pass for all the state parks in the area: Pt. Lobos State Reserve, Andrew Molera, Pfeiffer Big Sur, Julia Pfeiffer Burns, and Limekiln.

(Part 2 of 4)<BR><BR>About the drive: This is a drive to take slow and easy, especially if you're unused to mountain driving. Posted speed limits vary from 25-45 MPH, and you cannot practically (and safely) exceed them. It's a two-lane road that's very curvy, so make use of the turnouts to allow faster drivers to pass. Plan on stopping often to enjoy the view, because the driver will have his or her full attention and concentration on the road.<BR><BR>About the views: The series of sixteen turnouts between Carmel River Bridge (on the north end) and Hurricane Point (on the south end) actually comprise Garrapata State Park, and they provid the first dramatic views of the rocky coastline. Make sure to stop at the turnouts south of the valley (the inland portion where most lodging and businesses are) after Hwy 1 returns to the coast as well, because the terrain and views are a bit different than those ion the northern end of the Big Sur Coast. When you see signs for the various vista points, do pull off, as these are built at some of the most dramatic viewpoints.<BR><BR>The parks: Pt. Lobos. Pfeiffer Beach, and Ragged Point are all terrific places to stop for rugged coastal views. IMO, it's not only worth it, but really necessary to make time for a couple of other stops as well, if you can. In Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, there's a moderately short hike (about 1.5 miles round trip) through beautiful redwood groves to the base of the 60-foot Pfeiffer Falls. Thiis is inland. not on the coast, but it's a really beautiful hour spent. It's also a great opportunity for visitors to Northern California who want to experience the glory of the redwoods to do so in a much-less-crowded area than Muir Woods and other popular destinations.<BR>

Even if you are only making a day trip from the Carmel/Monterey area, and do not intend to drive all the way to the southern end of Big Sur (San Simeon), you should drive as far south as Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. You will see the variety of the coastline, and in the park itself is one of the most stunning views in the Continental US. A short (half-mile round trip), level (hard packed and paved, fine for people who can't do hills or who use wheelchairs) waterfall lookout trail leads from the parking lot out above the beach of McWay Cove, where you look down on McWay falls running from a boulder down to the beach. The falls itself is not spectacular, but the complete picture, of falls crashing down to the inaccessible beach of the inlet, with its rocks and clear green and blue surf, is guaranteed to take your breath away. Don't miss this.<BR><BR>A couple of on-line resources are helpful for planning travel in Big Sur. The Big Sur Chamber of Commerce we site (www.bigsurcalifornia.org) has listings with phone numbers and links of lodging and dining options, information on public transporatation, and a useful, simple, printable map that shows the locations of parks, businesses, etc. along Hwy 1. (Caveat: there are some errors on the map, so don't make it your only guide. It's very useful for quick orientattion, though.) The Guide to California's Big Sur (http://jrabold.net/bigsur/index.htm) is a gem: in addition to a history of the area and photos, it has a geographically ordereded "driving map" that lists all the bridges, parks, lookouts, etc. with mileages from the north and south ends of Big Sur and details on public restrooms, food, lodging, gas, etc. and contact numbers. Worth printing out to bring with you.

(Part 4 of 4)<BR><BR>All about food (where we ate)<BR><BR>MONTEREY<BR><BR>Fresh Cream (Heritage Harbor): This is an upscale-casual place with a fairly traditional French-California menu (roast duck, rack of lamb, Dover sole, other fish and meat preparations) done very well. Entrees, which come with a salad, are $28-36, appetizers (which you can easily share or skip) $12, desserts $9. Do not miss dessert here--Grand Marnier souffle and tart tatin (caramelized apple tart) baked to order and a chocolate "paper bag" filled with a mocha milkshake are outstanding. Ask for a window table (they'll make an effort to give you one if it's a special occasion), so you can watch the pelicans and sea otters play in the harbor.<BR><BR>Trattoria Paradiso (Cannery Row): A good place for lunch before or after the aquarium, with lots of window seating on the water. At lunch, pizzas around $10, grilled fish sandwich $13, seafood entrees a bit more. Free soda refills. Make dessert ice cream either from the nearby Ghirardelli shop or from Kalisa's, across from the aquarium, which sells Lappert's from Hawaii.<BR><BR>BUG SUR<BR><BR>Nepenthe: This place is all about the setting, which is lovely, perched on a cliff above the ocean. For lunch there's an outdoor cafe on the lower side, and all meals are served on the patio or by the windows of the regular restaurant; at night, a bonfire is built on the patio. Food is pricey and, while fine, nothing special. At dinner, burgers, served with a tiny salad, ar $12, and a big basket of fries (enough for three or four) is $5. Steak and broiled fish entrees $25-30. Homemade lemonade is good, but almost $4 with no refills offered.<BR><BR>Cielo (Ventana Inn): Upscale-casual in a beautiful, all-wood setting (hope there's not a fire) with distant ocean and mountain views, Candlelit and relaxing ambience and very good California cuisine. Starters around $6-12, entrees around $25. We had grilled pear with Serrano ham, carrot-ginger soup, grilled prawns with wild mushroom-barley risotto, and roast chicken with summer veegetable ragout, plus ice cream and sorbet for dessert, and all was very good.<BR><BR>Bif Sur Lodge: Surprisingly, for a park lodge, the restaurant here is quite good. Even if you're not staying, a good stop for lunch if you are hiking in the park. Chinese chicken salads for lunch were $9, egg breakfasts $8-9, and everything was quite generously sized. Good selection.<BR><BR>That's it; I'm happy to elaborate or answer any questions!

Thanks for that Caitlin. It brings back such good memories of trips we've done as well. I hope all who plan to drive Big Sur will heed your advice and take it very slowly with lots of turnouts. That's the only way to do it.

This is an excellent description of the area, with some valuable advice. Thank you so much for pointing out the importance of stopping at the state parks. I don't think it's possible to fully appreciate the area without getting out of the car.

Great trip report Caitlin! Tour detailed descriptions have prompted my desire to return there. On my last pass through the Big Sur area I had my dughter (who was 13 at the time) in tow and she had little to no interest in walking/hiking/appreciating scenic beauty, nor was she able to appreciate fine dining. I look forward to returning there with an adult companion who shares my interests and desire for a slower pace. Thanks!

Just a couple of details to add re lodging in Big Sur. This is the first time I had actually stayed in Big Sur, and it was, as I mentioned, a great way to get away from it all. This trip was all about relaxation (and celebrating an important anniversary), and being in the woods, with the dark starry sky and so on, but also having good dining options, was a treat. Though, as I noted, the decor/setting at Big Sur Lodge is typical park-lodge/motel in style, I wanted to mention that the amenities were better than expected--down comforters, plenty of thick towels (they give you many since there's a pool), and plenty of fairly good-quality toiletries. The park also has a grocery store for picnic supplies and so on. There is nothing like the northern California coast! This trip made us feel blessed (again) to have grown up in the area, and we do plan to move back some day...

Nice trip report Caitlin! My boyfriend and I did a similar trip in July of 1999. The only thing I would add is that Ventana, while certainly very pricey, is not always $500 per night. When we called, we were able to get a discounted rate of $275 for a weeknight in July and splurged on that for one night even though the rest of the trip we stayed in budget accommodations under $100/night. It was for a standard room but even that was very, very nice. Their website is www.ventanainn.com. I definitely recommend it as a once-in-a-blue-moon treat.