Big Sur/San Simeon 4 days
 

We are flying into Monterey CA on 10/20 and are spending 2 nights in Big Sur at Glen Oak Motel, 2 nights in San Simeon at Best Western Cavalier and conintuing down to Santa Barbara for 5 days at the Fours Seasons.

I am looking for a place we could buy a picnic lunch for our drive down from Monterrey to Big Sur. We land at noon in Monterrey and have already done Monterey and Carmel last Thanksgiving. So we were thinking a nice picnic lunch south of Carmel on the beach.

Also any hiking suggestions for that afternoon or the next day. We would be looking for a 3 or 4 hour loop hike the next day.

We have dinner on Sunday night at Post Ranch Inn but nothing for Saturday night. I think we will just wing it. I am counting on it not being too busy that time a year.

Any suggestions for things to do in San Simeon beside the Castle tour?

Thank you

Point Lobos State Reserve was breathtakingly beautiful and surprisingly empty. The north trail will take you to an overlook where you can see a rock island populated by thousands of commerants nesting and beaches where harbor seals sleep. The water is crystal clear. My other vote would be Pfeiffer Big Sur state park. The waterfall spills onto the beach and ocean. Just gorgeous.

If your question is where to buy the lunch, as opposed to where to stop to picnic, try Bruno's Market in Carmel (on Junipero just north of Ocean). They have already-made sandwiches, salads, cheese, sandwiches to order, wine, etc. Very good place.

ttt

We always stop at the Safeway deli at the intersection of 1 and River Rd. before heading south. Not as high end as Bruno's but not as expensive either.

Sandwiches from Compagno's Deli, 2000 Prescott Avenue. Very popular lunch place.

We just spent a week in Carmel and Big Sur, so I'd also recommend:

Bruno's for their sandwiches and homemade salads AND The Cheese Shop for incomparable cheese and wine. Both places are close to each other on Junipero. Bruno's has it's own easy lot, we park there. Both are local institutions, for good reason.

Before going down to Big Sur, we ALWAYS stop at the Cheese Shop first to pick up treats, especially some of their hard cheeses that don't require refrigeration, like the very good cave-aged Gruyere and others. Be sure to buy one of their inexpensive thin-slicing cheese planes that are for sale on the counter. They work better than any I've ever found. If you like wine, the local Santa Lucia Highlands Pinots and Syrahs are world-class and very cheese-friendly. Some of our favorites are Pisoni, Roar, Lucia, Pelerin, Tudor, and the tiny White Barn winery (made by one of the Cheese Shop's owners). All are excellent and some are good values. All this will come in very handy in Big Sur for trail or room snacks or an impromptu picnic the next day. When you discover that perfect remote spot,you'll be ready to enjoy!

I agree on Pt. Lobos for a picnic. Be sure to experience the jaw-dropping beauty of the tiny China Beach cove and also Gibson Beach just a little ways past that in the Bird Island area. Lots of cormorants on Bird Island. From the trail near Gibson, you can see Pacific's Edge restaurant at the Highlands Inn at the top of the hill. Bring small binocs and camera.

One correction on a previous post, the place where the waterfall drops directly onto the beach is Julia Pfeiffer-Burns State Park, which is a few miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. These are 2 completely different parks and are both "must-do's".

For hikes, two easy, short and gorgeous ones are:
Pfeiffer Falls in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (the falls are pretty small this dry year), but the trek through the magnificent old-growth redwoods is inspiring! and the previously mentioned McWay Waterfall Overlook Trail in Julia-Pfeiffer Burns State Park with forever coastal panoramas north and south.

Also, don't miss Pfeiffer Beach, a mile south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State park for it's massive rock with a "window". Great wind and wave action. The entrance isn't marked, except for a small yellow sign that says Narrow Road -- driving south is the way to enter, the sign's on the right side, make a sharp right at the sign. Former Beach Boy musician, Al Jardine has a home and recording studio on that canyon road to the beach that's still being used quite a bit by local groups.

For longer hikes, here's a few that might interest you:

www.bigsurlodge.com/hiking trails

For Saturday night, make reservations for either Deetjen's, always packed or the equally good Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant, another local's favorite. I'm sure you'll enjoy the newly re-opened Sierra Mar. Have lots of fun!

Gemstone -- is there a way to get to Pfieffer Beach driving north (spending the night in Cambria)? Thanks.

Great info from gemstone; do everything s/he says! We also had lunch made-to-order at brunos and enjoyed it on carmel beach. Pt. Lobos was somewhat cloudy when we were there but still stunning; the tide pools are second to none. And even if its been a dry year, the falls in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park are beautiful and the only ones to spill into the pacific.

Also, do any of you locals know if Partington Ridge is still open to the public? Its along the big sur coast, recommended here, where you can often see whales - and we did! Easy hike, at least going down; the incline coming back up was a little tougher but doable and definitely worth it. Would be curious if its still open /available to the public?

Shanghainese, if I were you driving north, I'd drive the mile past that turn off and turn right into Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park entrance. You can't miss it. Turn around in the parking lot in front of Big Sur Lodge, then go back out to Highway 1. Turn left on 1 going south and then use the directions I gave for Pfeiffer Beach.

That's the safest way to do it. I've never done the Pfeiffer Beach turn-off driving north on Hwy.1 and I think it would be hard, maybe even a little unsafe, depending on the conditions, 'cuz it's such a sharp turn/narrow road. But, just so you know, heading north on Highway 1, the marker for Pfeiffer Beach is about 1/2 mile north of the deli/Post Office on the left. LOL, now have I thoroughly confused you? :-) I should add, there's a small entrance fee ($5?), unless you're staying at Big Sur Lodge, in which case, all the State parks and beaches are free. Good luck and enjoy!

Thanks very much, Gemstone, you ARE a gem! I'm not confused at all, directions are clear, after we go to McWay Falls, we'll go south to Pfeiffer Beach. I'm only nervous about coming back to Highway One and left-turning north again! Btw, we are staying that night at the Mission Ranch and eating at Em Le's in Carmel.

Shanghainese, to be sure there's no confusion, McWay Falls is in Julia Pfeiffer-Burns State Park, which is south of Pfeiffer Beach. Pfeiffer Big Sur State park is a mile north of Pfeiffer Beach.

So, if you're leaving McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer-Burns, you'll need to turn right onto Highway 1 and head NORTH past Pfeiffer Beach turn-off, into Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park entrance and turn around, then go back 1 mile south on Hwy 1 to the Pfeiffer Beach turn off Narrow Road sign.

LOL! The Pfeiffer family had some fabulous property, but with all the Pfeiffer this and that, it can be sort of hilarious to give directions, huh? ;-) You'll be fine.

Cantinetta Lucca is the Carmel hotspot and a lot of fun with great quality housemade antipasti, pizza, Italian wines, but busy. Have a great trip!

Yes, Gemstone, I looked at a map before I came home and realized my mistake, didn't know you had caught it already! You're a lifesaver preventing us from driving into the ocean!

Deetjen's Big Sur Inn is also excellent for breakfast!

Shanghainese, I'm so glad to hear that.
Ellen Griswold, I'm happy your family enjoyed my rec for Bruno's on your vacation here a few years back. Our family has roots in Carmel, though I'm still in So. Cal. awaiting the time I can return north.

I'd guess Partington Ridge is still the same as when you were there, but I don't know for sure--maybe someone else does. I've never been up there, but we have a friend who lives there who tells us of his challenging life on the edge of the world. Such an interesting character and place! Partington is famous for its colorful residents such as Henry Miller, Jaime de Angulo & daughter Gui and so many other fascinating people. If you and your family have hiked it, bravo!,I'm sure it's a memory you treasure. Those homes are worth a fortune now!

Have you read the book "A Wild Coast and Lonely -- Big Sur Pioneers" by Rosalind Sharpe Wall? Since you have been there, I think you and all Big Sur travelers would enjoy it and your next trip so much more after reading about old Big Sur. The author wrote most of it at Deetjen's barn, before it was an inn. It's available for sale at Nepenthe's Phoenix shop, Big Sur Lodge's gift shop and of course, online. It's my favorite Big Sur book. Hope you enjoy!

The Cielo Restaurant at Ventana is excellent. If you still have Saturday night open.

Hi gemstone, thanks for book recco, i'll look for it! Yes, we loved everything about big sur, including the much maligned nepenthe; the food was mediocre but loved the view and experience. I definitely want to stay at Deetjen's, too. Which reminds me, isn't there a website with excerpts from the very colorful journals written there? I remember reading for quite awhile and soo wishing we had stayed there!

Hi Ellen!
Yeah, we crave Big Sur too and try to get there a couple of times a year. Last year after dinner at Deetjen's, we picked up a copy of their new book Big Sur Inn: The Deetjen Legacy by Anita Alan, which I think you'd love, if you want to know more of Deetjen's secrets and it's history -- the photography is gorgeous and there are some recipes. I keep it on my coffee table at home. Deetjen's keeps a house copy that you can browse through or buy one there or online. Doing a quick google,I didn't see any of their diaries online, besides the excerpts on their website, but keep searching. It wouldn't be quite the same as reading it in the room, though. ;-)

Their new chef has added a few spanish touches to the menu. At dinner a couple of weeks ago, the couple next to us leaned over and said "you gotta try the tomato soup - it's fabulous." We did and it was, and the rest of the meal was very good, too. Such a warm, cozy vibe. We haven't stayed at the inn for many years, but have great memories! People either love it, or not at all.

I remember our Partington friend telling us about a peaceful encounter with a mountain lion on his property there this year and that there have been several cats and dogs "vanished". Be careful where you hike in Big Sur.

We think Nepenthe's house-cured salmon and their artisanal cheese plate,along with a glass of the local Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir is the best thing to have while relaxing on the patio during the off-hours. Come back and enjoy it again soon!

Here's a website that shows McWay Falls dropping onto the beach in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State park. ;-) Hope you all find something new and interesting there:

http://www.pelicannetwork.net/jpb.statepark.htm

Hi, Gemstone, thanks for your directions, we had a wonderful trip! After leaving Cambria we stopped at the elephant seal lookout, there were at least a hundred of them basking in the sun, surf and sand. Spent most of our time in Julia Pfeiffer Burns state park (McWay Falls area was gorgeous) so didn't get to Pfeiffer Beach. Oh well, there is always a next time!

Thanks, Shanghainese -- I'm pleased to hear you had such a great time! Isn't Julia Pfeiffer Burns breathtaking? And so are the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, in a completely different way, right? ;-)

The views from the end of the overlook trail at JPB get to me every time, so hauntingly beautiful. Did you notice the forests along McWay creek? You were smart to spend as much time as possible at JPB and this is the perfect time to go. Feel free to share more with us and thanks for reporting back!