Big Sur dilemma
 

Ok Fodorites need some help again.
We are driving in early October from LA to Monterey/Carmel before heading to Yosemite. I have booked 1 night at the Madonna Inn in SLO (I know but I couldn't resist). Next day to San Simeon for Hearst Castle then H'way 1 to Carmel.
Dilemma :If we do a tour of Hearst Castle, is there enough time left to do Big Sur justice and get into Carmel early evening?
Is hearst worth it?
Have been looking at overnighting along the way but am amazed at prices! I've contacted Ripplewood Resort and Lucia Lodge about availability but the reviews are mixed and I'm not sure.
Should we do it in one day or overnight somewhere and if so where?

We stayed near Cambria at http://www.bestwesternfiresideinn.com/
and loved the hotel and location. It's near the Hearst Castle. I liked the Hearst Castle a lot and LOVED the outdoor pool.

While we were in Cambria, we visited the central coast wineries at Paso Robles and really enjoyed them too. My favorite was http://www.peachycanyon.com/

I did it in the opposite direction; Monterey to San Simeon, a tour of Hearst Castle, then on to San Luis Obispo for the night. Left Monterey in the morning driving straight through with a stop at Julia Pfeiffer State Park. Arrived at Hearst Castle around noon for the tour which was about an hour-hour half. Another hour to SLO, arriving in the late afternoon.

Not a bad day and not too hard a drive, but I've done the Big Sur drive several times so didn't need to stop to take in the views.

The coast is so beautiful, I'd slow down and enjoy it if possible.

I've driven from Monterrey down to the Hearst Castle and back (in time for dinner). It worked. It was a lot of driving.

I've driven up and down the coast several times for business and leisure. On this last trip I slowed down and really took my time - and had the best time ever.

I only allotted one night in Carmel, but feel in love with it and changed my plans to be able to stay another night. So, from San Francisco, I did two nights in Carmel and two nights in Cambria before driving on to LA.

You can do more driving and compact things into fewer days - but I really enjoyed slowing down and taking more time.

Thanks for replies!
It will be our first trip and only our second day driving on the wrong/right side of the road so we will be taking it easy and stopping a lot. I would like to stop at Nepenthe for a late lunch but it may be closer to dinner by the time we get there and then we still have to drive on to Carmel!!

I love Nepenthe. Just stop for a (non-alcoholic) drink and an appetizer - and the view of course - if it's not a meal time when you are going by.

If you are on Facebook, "friend" Nepenthe. I love their posts and photos each day.

Note thT Nepenthe stops serving lunch at 4:30 and starts serving dinner at 5 (different menus I guess). We sat down for lunch at 4:20 this past Sunday ( we had to wait about 10 minutes for a table)

If you are thinking the Hearst Castle is like castles in Europe, it's not. It is a wealthy man's massive mansion built in the 20th century. I would skip it, if it would give you more time for the scenic coastal drive and Carmel. I also agree that if you need a place to spend the night along the coastal drive, motels in Cambria are far better than the two you mentioned. And more reasonably priced.

Thanks for that Montereybob. I've seen many true castles and though a wealthy man's folly would be interesting I have decided to give it a miss and take our time checking out the natural sights of Big Sur.

Mid week, Big Sur Lodge has discounts. The rooms that are not in the old lodge are quite spacious & comfortable. That's where we stay when we visit Big Sur - usually once a year. Ventana climbed out of my price range about 20 years ago. We've been dining at Nepenthe for about 45 years - since I was in my teens. My wife has the Ambrosia burger and I have Lolly's Roast Chicken. Great fries - but a half-order is enough for 4 people. Breakfast or lunch at River Inn is quite nice also.

Stu Dudley

Big Sur Bakery serves an excellent breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The 133-mile drive you outline with a stop at San Simeon can be done easily in one day.

Nepenthe has a wonderful view, but the Ambrosiaburger ($16 with cheese) struck me as odd, and french fries are extra. My suggestion: stop for the view and dine at one of the places suggested above or at Ventana, which also has a spectacular view and better food: http://www.ventanainn.com/pdf/menu_lunch10.pdf

<b>1 night at the Madonna Inn in SLO (I know but I couldn't resist).</b>

I gather you have been warned about this place. I hope forewarned is forearmed.

HTTY

I think skipping Hearst is a good idea. If you had a couple of days (or more) to explore the coast, it certainly would be an option to visit Hearst. But the thing that makes the stretch of coast between Cambria and Carmel spectacular is what Mother Nature has created, not Hearst.

HTTY, what did you find "odd" about the burger at Nepenthe? (I had one last weekend and it was quite good).

My wife has probably devoured 30 Ambrosiaburgers. What can you order at Ventana for $16 ($14.50 without cheese)??? I believe that the Ambrosiaburger comes with a salad too.

We don't go to Big Sur for a gourmet meal (we're major foodies) - we go for the ambiance. We dine out in San Francisco about 20 times per year and in France (and elsewhere in Europe) about 30-40 times per year. Nepenthe is still one of our favorite places - A+ for vibe/ambiance/view and C+/B- for food.

However, I think someone who "experienced" Nepenthe in the late 60s/early 70s & lived in Calif then, "cherishes" Nepenthe more than someone who has not.

Stu Dudley

THanks all!
I pretty much have decided to skip Hearst, I don't think I will regret not going.
HTTY I am a scrapbooker and Madonna Inn sounds irresistable to me as a big photo opportunity. It's our 25th wedding anniversary and we have the Caveman room!!! LOL
I will certainly investigate Ventana, thank you for the link.
Can't wait for Nepanthe, hope the weather is good.

<b>HTTY, what did you find "odd" about the burger at Nepenthe? (I had one last weekend and it was quite good).</b>

I used "odd" in the sense of "different from what is usual or expected." Instead of being served on a hamburger bun, it was on a French roll. Instead of being served with fries or chips, mine came with a garbanzo-kidney bean salad.

I greatly enjoyed the view, but I didn't think that the Nepenthe twist on this classic American sandwich is an improvement. It was different from what I expected; it was good enough, but I wouldn't order another one.

In my post, I intended to encourage suedownunder to stop at Nepenthe for the view without building up her expectations (as mine were) that the hamburger is an exceptional treat.

HTTY

sue: substituting the Madonna Inn for the Hearst Castle is a great decision! :S-

When at the Madonna Inn, be sure to visit the public restrooms downstairs. MI also has good food.

If you spend one night in Cambria, then plan on the next night in Carmel. you can always backtrack a bit down to Big Sur the next day if necessary.

I usually have chicken at Nepenthe, but it had a special one time of the most delectable steak, so don't forget to ask about their daily specials.

I've read a lot about the restroom so I will be sure to visit.
I haven't been considering Cambria as an overnight as it's too close to SLO and I'd prefer to overnight further north.

I have to say(to the chagrin of some I'm sure)that I have been unable to find somewhere to stay that is either not too expensive or not too rustic and that is somewhere in the middle.
Easytraveler you are right when you say we can backtrack a little from Carmel/Monterey.

StuDudley said:

"However, I think someone who "experienced" Nepenthe in the late 60s/early 70s & lived in Calif then, "cherishes" Nepenthe more than someone who has not."

I am one of those. Famous people hung out there, like Steve McQueen and Kim Novak. I was already in love with her, like every other guy who had ever seen "Picnic," the movie. And one afternoon, there I was, elbow to elbow with her at the bar. OMG! Which I will treasure forever.

Other than that, nowadays, the place is jammed with tourists looking for the famous view, and geezers like us walking down memory lanes. The food is very interesting (ambroisaburger!) but exactly; C+/B-. Though I haven't been there in maybe 15 + years.

Uhmmm! As I think about it, I'm maybe due for another visit.

It was also the folkdance scene in the movie Sandpiper with Burton and Taylor.

I would sacrifice Hearst Castle for Big Sur drive any day. Good decision. But, rustic is the name of the game as to accommodations on that road. Go for the settings, ambiance, and just pure beauty.

PS: We would stop at Madonna Inn just to use the public rest rooms. Incredible. Never stayed there though. So can't comment.

Sue:

I try not to contradict other posters so as to leave you, the actual traveler, the greatest leeway in making decisions about your trip. But, yes, Cambria is too close to SLO and you really don't need to stop there. Besides which SLO itself has more to offer than Cambria.

When are you coming again? SLO has the most incredible local apples when in season. They are small and really tasty and grown in the surrounding hills.

There are also some good local wineries, if you're into wine-tasting. Look up "Edna Valley".

BillJ: that's quite a story. Kim Novak - in person! Such a beautiful lady!

Kim Novak was a total sex bomb in Vertigo. Poor Jimmy Stewart.

Indeed Kim Novak was a stunning woman but Liz Taylor was the most beautiful of all. I was very young when I saw The Sandpiper and never quite understood it.
If we are talking movies filmed in the area I guess I'm more of a "PLay Misty For Me" kind of girl.

About 20-25 years ago I saw Clint Eastwood at that small grocery store in Carmel. He parked his Mercedes out front - and his license plate was "MISTY"

Stu Dudley

Clint, of course, was mayor of Carmel for a while in the 80's (or early 90's?). One of the first things he did was overturn an ordinance that forbid eating ice cream while on city sidewalks. Seems he liked to eat ice cream cones while walking up and down Ocean Ave. He got mad about the ordinance, so ran for mayor and won. That's the simple version. 'Course all the land he wanted zoning on probably wasn't a factor.

He owned a restaurant named the Hog's Breath Inn in Carmel. It's still there but don't know if he still owns it. We were dining there one night and he made the rounds of all the tables. My impression: Clint didn't know he was Clint. They still have a Dirty Harry dinner.
http://www.hogsbreathinn.net/index.htm You might give it a try, Sue.

Yes, "Play Misty for Me" is a great movie featuring Carmel, Pacific Grove and Monterrey.
As for me and Kim, no 'lisbeth Taylor for me. She was gorgeous. I think I said something brilliant like "uh, er, uh,....hi." She smiled. That's all I remember and all I need. Sigh! LOL.
And, Sue, I never got the Sandpiper either. Burton and Taylor did some weird stuff together.

Clint, of course, was mayor of Carmel for a while in the 80's (or early 90's?). One of the first things he did was overturn an ordinance that forbid eating ice cream while on city sidewalks. Seems he liked to eat ice cream cones while walking up and down Ocean Ave. He got mad about the ordinance, so ran for mayor and won. That's the simple version. 'Course all the land he wanted zoning on probably wasn't a factor.

He owned a restaurant named the Hog's Breath Inn in Carmel. It's still there but don't know if he still owns it. We were dining there one night and he made the rounds of all the tables. My impression: Clint didn't know he was Clint. They still have a Dirty Harry dinner.
http://www.hogsbreathinn.net/index.htm You might give it a try, Sue.

Yes, "Play Misty for Me" is a great movie featuring Carmel, Pacific Grove and Monterrey.
As for me and Kim, no 'lisbeth Taylor for me. She was gorgeous. I think I said something brilliant like "uh, er, uh,....hi." She smiled. That's all I remember and all I need. Sigh! LOL.
And, Sue, I never got the Sandpiper either. Burton and Taylor did some weird stuff together.

Clint sold his part interest in the Hog's Breath, believe he sold it to his partner. (I'm not very good at celebrity gossip.)

http://www.destination360.com/north-...ath-restaurant

Meanwhile, Clint has gone on to revamping the Carmel Mission Ranch.

http://www.missionranchcarmel.com/

The Sandpiper belonged to the generation of "Make love, not war" and is somewhat in the hippie tradition of "free love" - if I recall correctly.

Love how this post has gone off on a different tangent. I will be sure to post a trip report as a way of thanking you all.

We will be looking for that report, be sure.

BTW, driving north on 1 you will be on the right side (I know, your wrong side). But that's the land side as opposed to south bound which is next to the ocean, which at times is hundreds of feet straight down from the road.

BillJ that's a comforting thought as my husband will be driving and he is scared of heights. I,however,will be hanging out the window taking photos.

Then I gues you'll be hanging out of the backseat window behind the driver, because you'll be on the wrong side of the car to take pictures from the passenger side. It actually works out better going south to north, for that reason, as well as easier access to pull-outs and viewing spots along the road.

I think Hazel means north to south.

sf - you're not watching the Giants game. 5 losses in a row.

Stu Dudley

I'm thoroughly confused, I'm having trouble getting my head around this driving thing it's lucky my husband is logical!

Stu, I was so watching the Giants game. Laptops were invented for multi-taskers like me!

Yes, sf7307, that is what I meant - gues I had a pre-senior moment there!

Sue; Driving north on 1, you will be seated on the right side of the car, which is the land side. So if you want pix, you will have to get in the back seat, driver's side, as said above.
But, going down Le Vining Grade, as discussed on another thread, you will also be on the right side of the car, the outside lane. So you will be on the cliff side of the highway, and have views straight down and across a stunning canyon. You will definitely have some photo ops. ;)
Have fun.