Big Island Trip report: long!
Jul 9th, 2006, 08:00 PM
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Big Island Trip report: long!
Dates: 6/16-7/04 2006
Who: me, DH and DS (9)
This was our third trip to the Big Island; the last time was 5 years ago.
PLANNING RESOURCES:
Fodors and Trip Advisor forums; Konaweb (save what you want since they don’t archive posts);. Big Island Revealed of course. I got a number of other guides from the library and didn’t get much new from them except the Big Island Trailblazer. The “Insider” book was bad – a bunch of errors.
FLIGHTS:
Used United FFM booking 330 days ahead. We flew SFO to KOA via LAX. Later we decided to extend our trip and had a waitlist but I kept checking flights myself for other dates. About 6 weeks out I found flights on 7/4. Not the best day to come back but we managed to see a lot of fireworks as we got into LAX. Kinda fun to see a different perspective!
Pillows and blankets were on every seat on the way over. On the way back they were on one seat of three. Food was for sale on both ways over but free headphones. We had a softsided cooler with food and drinks for our own meals. The flight attendants on the way back were kind of surly. One couldn’t be bothered to look for the ginger ale DH requested and offered him a 7 up instead. I’ve heard they don’t get to stay the night now and have to do the return flight so it’s not an easy job.
ACCOMODATIONS:
Keauhou Kona Surf and Racquet Club, unit 5-204, rented via VRBO 13991. It’s a great unit – it is in the building farthest to the south (only the golf course next to you), direct ocean front. End unit, wrap around lanai. Very open and bright (better than Kanaloa IMHO). Nicely equipped condo including high speed internet access. There was some building upgrades going on when we were there and the owner gave us a discount after I expressed my concerns. Very convenient to Kahaluu Beach (DH walked but not me) and Keauhou Shopping Center (KTA, Longs etc). There is a fairly large pool but a lot of rules (no balls, no flotation devices, no snorkel gear etc). There are a lot of retired residents here and some of the ones we saw at the pool seemed a bit fussy. We spent 13 nights here and could have stayed longer!
Aloha Junction, Volcano: one night (of the 13 above) so we could see the lava glow at night more easily. A reasonable place – an old house with 4 guest rooms. All have their own bathroom now with TV. Use of the kitchen. We stayed in the Garden room. Full breakfast – tasty! I would stay here again. They have a couple of PCs with high speed internet access available for guests. Jacuzzi and Sauna, geese and dogs (who pretty much keep by the owner’s side).
Hilton Waikoloa: we spent our last three nights here. We had never stayed in a resort on Hawaii before but figured we’d try it. Three days was enough for the adults – it’s just not our idea of Hawaii – but our son loved it. The waterslides were a blast! Lots to do and explore (beautiful asian art) but they really get you on the incidentals and food. Self park is no longer free ($7 per day) and local calls are $1. The rooms are large and comfy.
I think all rooms have a small fridge – useful for lunches and breakfasts. Note that there is no bottle opener to be found and Kona Brewing Co doesn’t use screw off caps! The lagoon wasn’t much fun after Kahaluu, especially if you have to rent snorkel gear (hear that cash register ringing!) We stayed in the Ocean Tower which is rather away from everything. The boat and tram were quite slow and usually going the wrong way from where we wanted to go. DH usually beat us back by walking. The boat is pleasant though if you’re not in a rush. There were fun things to do like dive-in movies at the pools. We never managed to make it to the tours/talks. Watched the dolphin experiences but not tempted (too pricey IMHO). They really pack em in.
I booked the room via the Hilton Grand Vacations web site – a bit cheaper than the lowest price on the Hilton web site, plus a $50 voucher. You had to go to the HGV office to pick it up but no pressure to attend a time share presentation. I’m not sure I would stay here again unless I got a good deal on Priceline. I didn’t use it this time because I wanted to definitely stay here (Bidding for Travel showed there was a possibility of getting Hapuna Prince). I would do a day rate though ($80 for up to 4 people). We used luggage service but had our swimsuits with us so we could go swimming before the bags arrived.
Kolea: we didn’t stay here but we visited friends who did. WOW! Luxury and location! Beautifully laid out and decorated. Elevator direct to their unit! Large 3 br, large lanai but it was usually too windy to use it. 5 min walk to A Bay
EATS:
We mostly ate in the condo while we were there – both for cost and ease of not having to go anywhere. We did BBQ on the charcoal grill and ate fresh fish, grass fed beef (from KTA not Safeway) or chicken plus veggies from the farmer’s markets. Mac Nut pie or Roselani ice cream for dessert. Yum! The KTA at Keauhou is much nicer that the one on Palani.
My son made up his own Hawaiian version of S’mores while roasting marshmallows over the coals: Kauai Kookie with Choc Mac Nut and a toasted marshmallow!
Kona Inn Grill: our first night in and we were hungry before the regular restaurant opened. It was a bit hot in the sun (few tables left) but once I got a Pina Colada I was happy. Very good service. I had a French dip, DH had a fish sandwich and beer and DS a hot dog. All were satisfied. DS walked on the rocky beach below the sea wall looking for treasures. A very pleasant start to our trip.
Shave ice place by Long’s on Palani: excellent! Very soft ice and chilled flavorings. Wish I had one right now! I liked that they have a small size in addition to the usual huge one. Decent price too.
Big Jake’s BBQ in Kealekekua (or one of those other small towns!): very tasty but a bit over priced. The ½ rack of ribs was fairly bit and just right to share with my son. DH had a brisket sandwich. Not much ambience sitting by the road.
Daylight Donuts in Keauhou Shopping Center: ok donuts, good selection of Tropical Dreams Ice Cream though!
Lava Rock Café in Volcano: large selection, adequate food.
Laulau/smoked meats stand at the Hilo Farmer’s market: this was a good find. They’ll give you a sample of the meats to try. You can get a plate lunch or just meat. We also discovered the Aloha cans of Calamansi here (sweet lime). It’s in the back but follow the signs.
Tex’s Honokaa: DH’s Ono sandwich was good; our burger not so much. Fries so so. But the chocolate filled malasadas were broke da mouf! Friendly people around here. One guy clearly in malasada heaven walked by asking me if I’d tried one yet.
Manago Hotel: we had breakfast here. Three choices on the menu and we each had one of them. Generous servings for a total of $15! The pancakes are huge. I had French toast and DH had the special (toast, eggs, meat, fruit). Homey ambiance.
Costco: pizza was great (greasy though) Can’t beat the price! Ate outside which was nicer.
Keei Café in Kainalu: a really nice meal here, service a bit slow. No credit cards. Not outrageously priced. They don’t make pina coladas so I had a Blue Hawaiian Margarita that was pretty tasty. Li Hing Mui powder on the rim. I had the pineapple glazed pork chops and DH had ahi. Mango cobbler for dessert was delicious. Much nicer room than the old place but the traffic noise was a bit obnoxious. I made a reservation in the late afternoon and got in just fine but there were a ton of people waiting when we left.
Kona Brewing Company: good food and great beer. I loved the lilikoi wheat. We all had pizza.
Merriman’s Marketplace (King’s shops): had a 10 min wait at prime time. Good, fast service. No blended pina colada but the rocks version was very good. Overpriced of course, but good food. I had the lamb kebabs and DH had an appetizer and we shared both.
Café Pesto in Kawaihae: the best meal of the trip. We got there just in time to beat the rush. I had mango glazed chicken and DH had seafood risotto. Both top notch. Dessert was coconut tart and apple crisp. So full but so happy! I drank a yummy lilikoi margarita.
Kamuela Provision Company: very nice place at resort prices but very high quality food and service. DH and DS split a shrimp appetizer, I had a salad. They both had fish for dinner and I had an appetizer of kalua pork spring rolls thinking I’d save room for dessert. Boy, were they greasy. Didn’t feel like eating anything else after that. Had a very nice (and large) Pina Colada.
Boat Landing Café: Kalua Pork quesadilla sounded good – but they put refried beans in it! Yuck! Came with chips, salsa, guacamole and sour cream.
SHOPPING:
My favorite thing to do – I get a big chunk of Christmas shopping done here. Luckily I managed to avoid the overweight bag fees (but not by a lot!)
Costco: didn’t get much here except for gas ($3.29 vs 3.47 and up elsewhere)
Ross: worth checking out but I didn’t find much this time around
Kimura’s lauhala shop in Holualoa: not especially cheap but very fine work. Fun to look around.
Alii Gardens Market: a lot less vendors here than I remember. I think a lot moved up to the International market. I was happy to see some Hawaiian vendors with their wares though. Didn’t get much here but worth a stop.
Volcano House: 2 shops with a decent selection with reasonable prices. Very nice clerks. One of them gave DS a piece of bubble wrap to pop after he admired their big roll!
Volcano Art Center: this is the good stuff! Many high quality/priced items but some reasonable things too. We already have so much Hawaiian art but I bought one of the beautiful wood cut prints. You can get them online too.
Hilo Farmer’s market: a fun place to shop and explore. There are a lot of produce stands (interesting stuff!), flowers and lei (I wanted them all!); usual tourist junk and some nice crafts. Wish I’d had more time! I’ll plan my next visit to be here on Wed or Sat for this!
International Marketplace: we went on Sunday and a few booths were closed so plan accordingly. There are some interesting places here. A few produce/flower stands. Mac Pie is here too (Factory is on 19 behind the Chevron.) Some nice shops here as well as typical junk. Not really bargains here but some nice goods.
Kailua Candy Company (by Costco now): high quality goodies but not cheap.
CJ’s Discount Beachwear: huge selection but not really much of a discount
Hilo Hatties: of course! I always find some good stuff here but go to Walmart first since they have many of the same items for cheaper. Try to go Sat-Tues (non cruise ship days). The clerks can be SLOW.
Walmart: good prices on souvenirs (although most aren’t made in Hawaii) but less selection than Hilo Hatties
Kathryn’s of Kona (by Hilo Hatties): glitzier stuff than I like but it is a very full shop
Bead shops (Kona Beads and Pikake) on or near Alii, mauka side: pretty good prices and some nice things as well as finished jewelry.
Blue Moon/Orchid (mauka side of Alii): nice stuff that I didn’t see anywhere else as well as some clothing. I love this store.
Kona Inn Shops: there are a lot of small shops here, some better than others. I found some nice things here and there.
Kailua Farmer’s Market (Hualalai at Alii): great place to shop. Produce, some typical junk and some nice stands including a fair amount of crafts. You can make a few deals here.
Keauhou Farmer’s Market (Sat mornings): small but really nice with music. All things here have to be made/grown on the island. We tasted rambutan which was really good. I got a nice jade vine lei, and best of all we got one of the first white pineapples of the season (oh so sweet!). Note to self, come later in the summer next time!
King’s shops: not much of interest to me here – better to go to Kona. There is a Blue Ginger store here which I like. I saw later that there is an outlet in Hilo. Wish I’d known that earlier!
Noa Noa: this store has really overpriced itself. Even the as is merchandise at the outlet near Costco is too much.
BEACHES:
I used to dis the Big Island for lack of close by beaches. I still miss being able to fall out of my condo on to the sand but the beaches here are oh so fine! They have gentle slopes, the waves were easy (at least in summer) and I liked seeing the different kinds of sand.
Kahaluu: we came here a lot since it was close to the condo and so easy to see such great fish. It was like being in an aquarium. We saw so many different fish, new ones every time out. DS did pretty well once I got him a neoprene mask strap. So much easier to fit right and it didn’t pull his hair. Foot protection is really needed here since there are so many urchins, especially farther out. My friend put her hand down in the wrong spot at Puako and has a hand full of black urchin spines. Still having problems two weeks later. Usually a turtle or three hanging around.
Kua Bay: a favorite! Easy to get to, soft sandy beach. Wow! No sign but it’s north of Kekaha Kai across from the Veteran’s Cemetary. Not much shade.
Kekaha Kai: 10+ minute drive over a rough dirt road, then a 10 min walk over lava. The beach is nice and less crowded than Kua. There are some rocks in the water here and there but not bad. Decent snorkeling. Plenty of shade.
Hapuna: ahhhhh Need I say more? It was pretty windy though on the day we went..
A Bay: a pleasant beach. DH walked here a few times from the Hilton – took about 15+ minutes. Some decent snorkeling but be careful you don’t get run over by the sailboats. The Marriott is set back a fair amount. Kolea is closer.
ACTIVITIES and SIGHTSEEING:
I’ll just cover the high and low lights.
Fairwinds to Kealekekua Bay: third time we’ve done this trip and still great. It was said to be a full boat but never felt crowded. Good, friendly service. We met some friends from home – the two boys didn’t stay in the water very long but had fun hanging around on the boat and going off the slide (be sure to hold your nose or your sinuses will get cleaned out). The lunch was good but I ate quickly to head back into the water. The underwater terrain is more interesting than Kahaluu and we saw some fish here we didn’t see there. Next time when DS is older I’d like to kayak this bay and take the Hula Kai to other areas.
Volcano area: enjoyed our trip there via the Southern Route and back via Hamakua coast. I’d like to stay longer in Hilo sometime. Punaluu beach was nice to walk on. I love the texture of the sand. The Punaluu bakery wasn’t open but I bought some of their bread and cookies later – good stuff! We headed straight for the lava tube when we got there, before it got crowded. DH and DS did the dark end too. DS did the Jr Ranger book and got his badge the second day. We took a guided walk – Summit hike. More talking than walking but it was very informative. There’s really not a summit; it’s just to the rim of the crater. DS really enjoyed exploring the southwest rift zone. Bird park walk wasn’t that great.
We went down to the end of Chain of Craters road. Got there about 6:30, after sunset. A couple of people were just leaving and we were able to snag a closer parking spot. The parking line was VERY long when we left after 8. The hiking on the lava is not easy but do able. I thought it would be harder coming back than it was. I just followed the reflectors. We headed to the right when we got on the lava but there seemed to be another area to the left. It had flashing beacons to follow back. There is a big hairpin turn on the way down C of C road and it had almost as good a view of the lava glow in case you don’t want to do the hike. You really need to stay until dark to see the glow best. I was prepared for it to be a lot colder – windy but not cold at all. This is sea level, where as Volcano Village is 4000 feet. Even there just a sweatshirt was enough for me there. Bring binocs. Fun to see the trail of flashlights as you walk back to your car.
We attended a Hula Kahiko (traditional chanting style) performance at the Volcano Art Center. They put them on a few times a year. The kumu (teacher) was an excellent story teller, explaining the dances.
Tsunami Museum in Hilo: small but interesting. Seemed a bit overpriced. I enjoyed the video which included interviews with survivors of 1946 and 1960 (you can also see them at various places in the museum). Hilo didn’t look to me to be a lot different than the scenes from the 40’s!
Got some stink eye at the Waipio overlook. It was a weekend and there were a bunch of guys there with atv’s. Maybe they wanted to make money by taking people down?
Higashihira Park (10 mins south of Keauhou on 11): one great park for keiki! Swings, slides and lots of climbing opportunities. The tire swing was a favorite.
Fishing Charter share on the Sea Wife: DS really wanted to do this. We went on the morning tour and were warned to allow time for traffic. There wasn’t really any. There were 8 people fishing and one ride along. One captain and one crew. Things got exciting right out of the harbor when 2 people caught ono. Then nothing for four hours. DS was really disappointed. The crew guy had him help tie a lure which was nice. The fish were cut up and shared among the passengers. The ocean was so calm it was like a lake so there really wasn’t any need for Bonine but we took some just in case.
Hula show at Keauhou Shopping Center, Fri 6 pm. Quite a few people there. It was nice but more Polynesian than Hawaiian. Mostly students dancing. Worth the price though (free)!
The highlight of the trip for me was the Cultural Festival at Puuhonua O Honaunau. They do it once a year at the end of June/early July. Free admission. We got there early for the Royal Procession which was magical. They walked around various parts of the grounds then stopped for a chanting and hula performance. Wow, these people were good! Then many different stations opened up for hands on crafts and canoe rides. We went on the double hulled sailing canoe. There was a pod of spinner dolphins in the bay. That was a special experience! The ride took about ½ hour (so the waits in line can be long). I made an Ipu (gourd drum) – scrubbed it and polished it. I had a nice time talking to people in line. Most were locals. I really want to do this again next time we come (without DS who was bored!). On Sunday they were having a hukilau and Hawaiian food tasting.
Enjoyed a nice drive up to Kohala Mtn Road then down to Hawi and Pololu Valley. DH and DS hiked down and around and took about an hour. Luckily I had some crossword puzzles to do in the car while I waited…
OTHER:
We were a bit concerned about the weather forecast before we left – showed rain every day but I’d read on the boards to ignore it. How true – it was overcast or hazy sometimes but only really rained at sea level once. Driving up mauka we would get a bit of rain now and then. It did get quite hot at times though, especially in Kona town one afternoon when there was no breeze. I was literally dripping! Back at the condo it was fine with the breeze and fans. One day it was too breezy to eat on the lanai but that was a rarity in Kona. In Kohala the wind was a given (windy or WINDY).
We listened to KAPA FM for Hawaiian music. Too much Jawaiian for my taste at times. They play a few songs repeatedly – got em stuck in my head so I’m going to have to download them. From their website I found burnlounge.com - another source incase iTunes doesn’t have it. KAPA streams on the web too in case you want a dose of local flavor at home.
I made up a Hawaiian Scavenger hunt list from an idea on Fodors a while back. It was fun to look for stuff. Some things were harder to find than I thought (like a drink with an umbrella!)
I bought a reusable underwater camera – Shark Diver 35mm, auto load and film advance, manual flash. It worked fine but it was weird using a film camera again. I wanted to see the pictures right away! I used 800 ISO film plus the flash when I dove down and there was lower light. It made a difference. I had to replace the batteries ( 2 AA) after 4 rolls using the flash about 2/3 of the time. I really want to get an underwater digital but I can’t find a cheap one with good reviews.
We got caught in the traffic crawl on Queen K coming south after the beach one day. That was about 3:30 but it starts to slow earlier than that.
I read a few Hawaiian themed novels: Molokai by Alan Brennert was very good (keep Kleenex handy!); Lava and Makai were fairly good; Keiki was junk. I’m now reading Kona by Marjorie Sinclair and it’s good.
There was a note at our condo that the Keauhou Beauty School is a good deal for manis, pedis etc. I didn’t try it out though.
Things are pretty dark at night in Kohala. I’m guessing it’s because of the observatory on Mauna Kea. It was kinda creepy in Waikoloa Village getting groceries.
Seventeen days still isn’t long enough for us to want to go home. We’ve been bitten hard by the Hawaii bug. We’re talking of a month on Oahu next summer…
Kim
Who: me, DH and DS (9)
This was our third trip to the Big Island; the last time was 5 years ago.
PLANNING RESOURCES:
Fodors and Trip Advisor forums; Konaweb (save what you want since they don’t archive posts);. Big Island Revealed of course. I got a number of other guides from the library and didn’t get much new from them except the Big Island Trailblazer. The “Insider” book was bad – a bunch of errors.
FLIGHTS:
Used United FFM booking 330 days ahead. We flew SFO to KOA via LAX. Later we decided to extend our trip and had a waitlist but I kept checking flights myself for other dates. About 6 weeks out I found flights on 7/4. Not the best day to come back but we managed to see a lot of fireworks as we got into LAX. Kinda fun to see a different perspective!
Pillows and blankets were on every seat on the way over. On the way back they were on one seat of three. Food was for sale on both ways over but free headphones. We had a softsided cooler with food and drinks for our own meals. The flight attendants on the way back were kind of surly. One couldn’t be bothered to look for the ginger ale DH requested and offered him a 7 up instead. I’ve heard they don’t get to stay the night now and have to do the return flight so it’s not an easy job.
ACCOMODATIONS:
Keauhou Kona Surf and Racquet Club, unit 5-204, rented via VRBO 13991. It’s a great unit – it is in the building farthest to the south (only the golf course next to you), direct ocean front. End unit, wrap around lanai. Very open and bright (better than Kanaloa IMHO). Nicely equipped condo including high speed internet access. There was some building upgrades going on when we were there and the owner gave us a discount after I expressed my concerns. Very convenient to Kahaluu Beach (DH walked but not me) and Keauhou Shopping Center (KTA, Longs etc). There is a fairly large pool but a lot of rules (no balls, no flotation devices, no snorkel gear etc). There are a lot of retired residents here and some of the ones we saw at the pool seemed a bit fussy. We spent 13 nights here and could have stayed longer!
Aloha Junction, Volcano: one night (of the 13 above) so we could see the lava glow at night more easily. A reasonable place – an old house with 4 guest rooms. All have their own bathroom now with TV. Use of the kitchen. We stayed in the Garden room. Full breakfast – tasty! I would stay here again. They have a couple of PCs with high speed internet access available for guests. Jacuzzi and Sauna, geese and dogs (who pretty much keep by the owner’s side).
Hilton Waikoloa: we spent our last three nights here. We had never stayed in a resort on Hawaii before but figured we’d try it. Three days was enough for the adults – it’s just not our idea of Hawaii – but our son loved it. The waterslides were a blast! Lots to do and explore (beautiful asian art) but they really get you on the incidentals and food. Self park is no longer free ($7 per day) and local calls are $1. The rooms are large and comfy.
I think all rooms have a small fridge – useful for lunches and breakfasts. Note that there is no bottle opener to be found and Kona Brewing Co doesn’t use screw off caps! The lagoon wasn’t much fun after Kahaluu, especially if you have to rent snorkel gear (hear that cash register ringing!) We stayed in the Ocean Tower which is rather away from everything. The boat and tram were quite slow and usually going the wrong way from where we wanted to go. DH usually beat us back by walking. The boat is pleasant though if you’re not in a rush. There were fun things to do like dive-in movies at the pools. We never managed to make it to the tours/talks. Watched the dolphin experiences but not tempted (too pricey IMHO). They really pack em in.
I booked the room via the Hilton Grand Vacations web site – a bit cheaper than the lowest price on the Hilton web site, plus a $50 voucher. You had to go to the HGV office to pick it up but no pressure to attend a time share presentation. I’m not sure I would stay here again unless I got a good deal on Priceline. I didn’t use it this time because I wanted to definitely stay here (Bidding for Travel showed there was a possibility of getting Hapuna Prince). I would do a day rate though ($80 for up to 4 people). We used luggage service but had our swimsuits with us so we could go swimming before the bags arrived.
Kolea: we didn’t stay here but we visited friends who did. WOW! Luxury and location! Beautifully laid out and decorated. Elevator direct to their unit! Large 3 br, large lanai but it was usually too windy to use it. 5 min walk to A Bay
EATS:
We mostly ate in the condo while we were there – both for cost and ease of not having to go anywhere. We did BBQ on the charcoal grill and ate fresh fish, grass fed beef (from KTA not Safeway) or chicken plus veggies from the farmer’s markets. Mac Nut pie or Roselani ice cream for dessert. Yum! The KTA at Keauhou is much nicer that the one on Palani.
My son made up his own Hawaiian version of S’mores while roasting marshmallows over the coals: Kauai Kookie with Choc Mac Nut and a toasted marshmallow!
Kona Inn Grill: our first night in and we were hungry before the regular restaurant opened. It was a bit hot in the sun (few tables left) but once I got a Pina Colada I was happy. Very good service. I had a French dip, DH had a fish sandwich and beer and DS a hot dog. All were satisfied. DS walked on the rocky beach below the sea wall looking for treasures. A very pleasant start to our trip.
Shave ice place by Long’s on Palani: excellent! Very soft ice and chilled flavorings. Wish I had one right now! I liked that they have a small size in addition to the usual huge one. Decent price too.
Big Jake’s BBQ in Kealekekua (or one of those other small towns!): very tasty but a bit over priced. The ½ rack of ribs was fairly bit and just right to share with my son. DH had a brisket sandwich. Not much ambience sitting by the road.
Daylight Donuts in Keauhou Shopping Center: ok donuts, good selection of Tropical Dreams Ice Cream though!
Lava Rock Café in Volcano: large selection, adequate food.
Laulau/smoked meats stand at the Hilo Farmer’s market: this was a good find. They’ll give you a sample of the meats to try. You can get a plate lunch or just meat. We also discovered the Aloha cans of Calamansi here (sweet lime). It’s in the back but follow the signs.
Tex’s Honokaa: DH’s Ono sandwich was good; our burger not so much. Fries so so. But the chocolate filled malasadas were broke da mouf! Friendly people around here. One guy clearly in malasada heaven walked by asking me if I’d tried one yet.
Manago Hotel: we had breakfast here. Three choices on the menu and we each had one of them. Generous servings for a total of $15! The pancakes are huge. I had French toast and DH had the special (toast, eggs, meat, fruit). Homey ambiance.
Costco: pizza was great (greasy though) Can’t beat the price! Ate outside which was nicer.
Keei Café in Kainalu: a really nice meal here, service a bit slow. No credit cards. Not outrageously priced. They don’t make pina coladas so I had a Blue Hawaiian Margarita that was pretty tasty. Li Hing Mui powder on the rim. I had the pineapple glazed pork chops and DH had ahi. Mango cobbler for dessert was delicious. Much nicer room than the old place but the traffic noise was a bit obnoxious. I made a reservation in the late afternoon and got in just fine but there were a ton of people waiting when we left.
Kona Brewing Company: good food and great beer. I loved the lilikoi wheat. We all had pizza.
Merriman’s Marketplace (King’s shops): had a 10 min wait at prime time. Good, fast service. No blended pina colada but the rocks version was very good. Overpriced of course, but good food. I had the lamb kebabs and DH had an appetizer and we shared both.
Café Pesto in Kawaihae: the best meal of the trip. We got there just in time to beat the rush. I had mango glazed chicken and DH had seafood risotto. Both top notch. Dessert was coconut tart and apple crisp. So full but so happy! I drank a yummy lilikoi margarita.
Kamuela Provision Company: very nice place at resort prices but very high quality food and service. DH and DS split a shrimp appetizer, I had a salad. They both had fish for dinner and I had an appetizer of kalua pork spring rolls thinking I’d save room for dessert. Boy, were they greasy. Didn’t feel like eating anything else after that. Had a very nice (and large) Pina Colada.
Boat Landing Café: Kalua Pork quesadilla sounded good – but they put refried beans in it! Yuck! Came with chips, salsa, guacamole and sour cream.
SHOPPING:
My favorite thing to do – I get a big chunk of Christmas shopping done here. Luckily I managed to avoid the overweight bag fees (but not by a lot!)
Costco: didn’t get much here except for gas ($3.29 vs 3.47 and up elsewhere)
Ross: worth checking out but I didn’t find much this time around
Kimura’s lauhala shop in Holualoa: not especially cheap but very fine work. Fun to look around.
Alii Gardens Market: a lot less vendors here than I remember. I think a lot moved up to the International market. I was happy to see some Hawaiian vendors with their wares though. Didn’t get much here but worth a stop.
Volcano House: 2 shops with a decent selection with reasonable prices. Very nice clerks. One of them gave DS a piece of bubble wrap to pop after he admired their big roll!
Volcano Art Center: this is the good stuff! Many high quality/priced items but some reasonable things too. We already have so much Hawaiian art but I bought one of the beautiful wood cut prints. You can get them online too.
Hilo Farmer’s market: a fun place to shop and explore. There are a lot of produce stands (interesting stuff!), flowers and lei (I wanted them all!); usual tourist junk and some nice crafts. Wish I’d had more time! I’ll plan my next visit to be here on Wed or Sat for this!
International Marketplace: we went on Sunday and a few booths were closed so plan accordingly. There are some interesting places here. A few produce/flower stands. Mac Pie is here too (Factory is on 19 behind the Chevron.) Some nice shops here as well as typical junk. Not really bargains here but some nice goods.
Kailua Candy Company (by Costco now): high quality goodies but not cheap.
CJ’s Discount Beachwear: huge selection but not really much of a discount
Hilo Hatties: of course! I always find some good stuff here but go to Walmart first since they have many of the same items for cheaper. Try to go Sat-Tues (non cruise ship days). The clerks can be SLOW.
Walmart: good prices on souvenirs (although most aren’t made in Hawaii) but less selection than Hilo Hatties
Kathryn’s of Kona (by Hilo Hatties): glitzier stuff than I like but it is a very full shop
Bead shops (Kona Beads and Pikake) on or near Alii, mauka side: pretty good prices and some nice things as well as finished jewelry.
Blue Moon/Orchid (mauka side of Alii): nice stuff that I didn’t see anywhere else as well as some clothing. I love this store.
Kona Inn Shops: there are a lot of small shops here, some better than others. I found some nice things here and there.
Kailua Farmer’s Market (Hualalai at Alii): great place to shop. Produce, some typical junk and some nice stands including a fair amount of crafts. You can make a few deals here.
Keauhou Farmer’s Market (Sat mornings): small but really nice with music. All things here have to be made/grown on the island. We tasted rambutan which was really good. I got a nice jade vine lei, and best of all we got one of the first white pineapples of the season (oh so sweet!). Note to self, come later in the summer next time!
King’s shops: not much of interest to me here – better to go to Kona. There is a Blue Ginger store here which I like. I saw later that there is an outlet in Hilo. Wish I’d known that earlier!
Noa Noa: this store has really overpriced itself. Even the as is merchandise at the outlet near Costco is too much.
BEACHES:
I used to dis the Big Island for lack of close by beaches. I still miss being able to fall out of my condo on to the sand but the beaches here are oh so fine! They have gentle slopes, the waves were easy (at least in summer) and I liked seeing the different kinds of sand.
Kahaluu: we came here a lot since it was close to the condo and so easy to see such great fish. It was like being in an aquarium. We saw so many different fish, new ones every time out. DS did pretty well once I got him a neoprene mask strap. So much easier to fit right and it didn’t pull his hair. Foot protection is really needed here since there are so many urchins, especially farther out. My friend put her hand down in the wrong spot at Puako and has a hand full of black urchin spines. Still having problems two weeks later. Usually a turtle or three hanging around.
Kua Bay: a favorite! Easy to get to, soft sandy beach. Wow! No sign but it’s north of Kekaha Kai across from the Veteran’s Cemetary. Not much shade.
Kekaha Kai: 10+ minute drive over a rough dirt road, then a 10 min walk over lava. The beach is nice and less crowded than Kua. There are some rocks in the water here and there but not bad. Decent snorkeling. Plenty of shade.
Hapuna: ahhhhh Need I say more? It was pretty windy though on the day we went..
A Bay: a pleasant beach. DH walked here a few times from the Hilton – took about 15+ minutes. Some decent snorkeling but be careful you don’t get run over by the sailboats. The Marriott is set back a fair amount. Kolea is closer.
ACTIVITIES and SIGHTSEEING:
I’ll just cover the high and low lights.
Fairwinds to Kealekekua Bay: third time we’ve done this trip and still great. It was said to be a full boat but never felt crowded. Good, friendly service. We met some friends from home – the two boys didn’t stay in the water very long but had fun hanging around on the boat and going off the slide (be sure to hold your nose or your sinuses will get cleaned out). The lunch was good but I ate quickly to head back into the water. The underwater terrain is more interesting than Kahaluu and we saw some fish here we didn’t see there. Next time when DS is older I’d like to kayak this bay and take the Hula Kai to other areas.
Volcano area: enjoyed our trip there via the Southern Route and back via Hamakua coast. I’d like to stay longer in Hilo sometime. Punaluu beach was nice to walk on. I love the texture of the sand. The Punaluu bakery wasn’t open but I bought some of their bread and cookies later – good stuff! We headed straight for the lava tube when we got there, before it got crowded. DH and DS did the dark end too. DS did the Jr Ranger book and got his badge the second day. We took a guided walk – Summit hike. More talking than walking but it was very informative. There’s really not a summit; it’s just to the rim of the crater. DS really enjoyed exploring the southwest rift zone. Bird park walk wasn’t that great.
We went down to the end of Chain of Craters road. Got there about 6:30, after sunset. A couple of people were just leaving and we were able to snag a closer parking spot. The parking line was VERY long when we left after 8. The hiking on the lava is not easy but do able. I thought it would be harder coming back than it was. I just followed the reflectors. We headed to the right when we got on the lava but there seemed to be another area to the left. It had flashing beacons to follow back. There is a big hairpin turn on the way down C of C road and it had almost as good a view of the lava glow in case you don’t want to do the hike. You really need to stay until dark to see the glow best. I was prepared for it to be a lot colder – windy but not cold at all. This is sea level, where as Volcano Village is 4000 feet. Even there just a sweatshirt was enough for me there. Bring binocs. Fun to see the trail of flashlights as you walk back to your car.
We attended a Hula Kahiko (traditional chanting style) performance at the Volcano Art Center. They put them on a few times a year. The kumu (teacher) was an excellent story teller, explaining the dances.
Tsunami Museum in Hilo: small but interesting. Seemed a bit overpriced. I enjoyed the video which included interviews with survivors of 1946 and 1960 (you can also see them at various places in the museum). Hilo didn’t look to me to be a lot different than the scenes from the 40’s!
Got some stink eye at the Waipio overlook. It was a weekend and there were a bunch of guys there with atv’s. Maybe they wanted to make money by taking people down?
Higashihira Park (10 mins south of Keauhou on 11): one great park for keiki! Swings, slides and lots of climbing opportunities. The tire swing was a favorite.
Fishing Charter share on the Sea Wife: DS really wanted to do this. We went on the morning tour and were warned to allow time for traffic. There wasn’t really any. There were 8 people fishing and one ride along. One captain and one crew. Things got exciting right out of the harbor when 2 people caught ono. Then nothing for four hours. DS was really disappointed. The crew guy had him help tie a lure which was nice. The fish were cut up and shared among the passengers. The ocean was so calm it was like a lake so there really wasn’t any need for Bonine but we took some just in case.
Hula show at Keauhou Shopping Center, Fri 6 pm. Quite a few people there. It was nice but more Polynesian than Hawaiian. Mostly students dancing. Worth the price though (free)!
The highlight of the trip for me was the Cultural Festival at Puuhonua O Honaunau. They do it once a year at the end of June/early July. Free admission. We got there early for the Royal Procession which was magical. They walked around various parts of the grounds then stopped for a chanting and hula performance. Wow, these people were good! Then many different stations opened up for hands on crafts and canoe rides. We went on the double hulled sailing canoe. There was a pod of spinner dolphins in the bay. That was a special experience! The ride took about ½ hour (so the waits in line can be long). I made an Ipu (gourd drum) – scrubbed it and polished it. I had a nice time talking to people in line. Most were locals. I really want to do this again next time we come (without DS who was bored!). On Sunday they were having a hukilau and Hawaiian food tasting.
Enjoyed a nice drive up to Kohala Mtn Road then down to Hawi and Pololu Valley. DH and DS hiked down and around and took about an hour. Luckily I had some crossword puzzles to do in the car while I waited…
OTHER:
We were a bit concerned about the weather forecast before we left – showed rain every day but I’d read on the boards to ignore it. How true – it was overcast or hazy sometimes but only really rained at sea level once. Driving up mauka we would get a bit of rain now and then. It did get quite hot at times though, especially in Kona town one afternoon when there was no breeze. I was literally dripping! Back at the condo it was fine with the breeze and fans. One day it was too breezy to eat on the lanai but that was a rarity in Kona. In Kohala the wind was a given (windy or WINDY).
We listened to KAPA FM for Hawaiian music. Too much Jawaiian for my taste at times. They play a few songs repeatedly – got em stuck in my head so I’m going to have to download them. From their website I found burnlounge.com - another source incase iTunes doesn’t have it. KAPA streams on the web too in case you want a dose of local flavor at home.
I made up a Hawaiian Scavenger hunt list from an idea on Fodors a while back. It was fun to look for stuff. Some things were harder to find than I thought (like a drink with an umbrella!)
I bought a reusable underwater camera – Shark Diver 35mm, auto load and film advance, manual flash. It worked fine but it was weird using a film camera again. I wanted to see the pictures right away! I used 800 ISO film plus the flash when I dove down and there was lower light. It made a difference. I had to replace the batteries ( 2 AA) after 4 rolls using the flash about 2/3 of the time. I really want to get an underwater digital but I can’t find a cheap one with good reviews.
We got caught in the traffic crawl on Queen K coming south after the beach one day. That was about 3:30 but it starts to slow earlier than that.
I read a few Hawaiian themed novels: Molokai by Alan Brennert was very good (keep Kleenex handy!); Lava and Makai were fairly good; Keiki was junk. I’m now reading Kona by Marjorie Sinclair and it’s good.
There was a note at our condo that the Keauhou Beauty School is a good deal for manis, pedis etc. I didn’t try it out though.
Things are pretty dark at night in Kohala. I’m guessing it’s because of the observatory on Mauna Kea. It was kinda creepy in Waikoloa Village getting groceries.
Seventeen days still isn’t long enough for us to want to go home. We’ve been bitten hard by the Hawaii bug. We’re talking of a month on Oahu next summer…
Kim
Jul 10th, 2006, 12:37 AM
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"Seventeen days still isn’t long enough for us to want to go home"
totally understand; we had 11 days and felt like we only scratched the surface of the BI
mahalo for a great informative report kimr!!!
sounds like you had a blast
totally understand; we had 11 days and felt like we only scratched the surface of the BI
mahalo for a great informative report kimr!!!
sounds like you had a blast
Jul 10th, 2006, 04:05 AM
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Thanks for your trip report! My husband and I will be there in late October, and your report was really very helpful!
Have fun planning your MONTH on Oahu next year! (Have you been to Kauai yet? So far it's my favorite island -- out of Maui, Kauai, Oahu.)
Have fun planning your MONTH on Oahu next year! (Have you been to Kauai yet? So far it's my favorite island -- out of Maui, Kauai, Oahu.)
Jul 10th, 2006, 08:19 AM
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Awww, your trip report is making me so excited for our upcoming trip in August! One question for you, since you did the night hike. What time did you get out of VNP that night after the hike? I'm trying to decide whether my husband and I should get dinner in the late afternoon, then re-enter the park to do the night hike, or whether we should get dinner on the way home. I was originally considering That Thai, but it closes at nine. (I'm hypoglycemic so food is the one thing I never play by ear! 
)
)
Jul 10th, 2006, 03:00 PM
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karameli -
We left the lava area about 8:00 - then with the walk back and drive back up it was probably 9ish when we got back to our B&B.
We ate at the Lava Rock early, then went down. They were relatively quick. You could also get take out someplace and have a picnic "on the rocks".
The Thai place was well recommended by several people. Lava Rock probably does take out or the General Store has pizza or other fixings you could get.
Lucky you to still have the trip to look forward to!
Kim
We left the lava area about 8:00 - then with the walk back and drive back up it was probably 9ish when we got back to our B&B.
We ate at the Lava Rock early, then went down. They were relatively quick. You could also get take out someplace and have a picnic "on the rocks".
The Thai place was well recommended by several people. Lava Rock probably does take out or the General Store has pizza or other fixings you could get.
Lucky you to still have the trip to look forward to!
Kim
