BIg Island Hawaii Advice
 

Trip dates planned to be September 23 to October 4 2018. We will be flying in and out of Kona airport. We will have spent 15-18 hours on planes by the time we arrive. Our primary reason for visiting is to visit Volcano NP, we are both intrigued by caves, mountains, geology etc. other interests nature, hiking, wildlife, botany, history.
We enjoy a good meal but fine dining is not important. We much prefer to stay in B & Bs, or cottage, cabins rather than large hotels or resorts. We don't want to stay in a room in someone's home, we want our own space.We like to be able to walk from our lodgings to somewhere to eat dinner, or to pick up travelling food.
We like walking on beaches but not sitting on beaches for any amount of time. I don't swim at all well, water related sports are frankly terrifying. Helicopters are fine and guided hikes in some places for lava viewing etc are also good. .
Our original plan was to stay 3 days in the Kailua-Kona area, then to Volcano Village and area for 4 days, then up to Hilo area and further north for 3 days, then drive around the north end on the day we fly out, our flight will be in the evening so the drive time should work.
After looking at accommodation possibilities in the Kailua-Kona area, they all seem to be condo rentals, or large hotel resorts in areas with a lot of traffic and perhaps not what we want after a very long trip. Many of the large hotels etc are out of our price range and we don't want to be self catering at the beginning of the trip.
If we reversed the trip and went north from Kona,into Kohala then to the north east, then to VNP, and end in the Kona area would that be better, or at least more suited to our travel style? Quieter to begin with and busier later?
I know the distances are not great, but we don't want to be driving back and forth over the same roads to visit places we want to see from 1 or 2 bases. We have a list of places to visit, some are must do's, other's are nice to do if we have time,and the weather cooperates in the wetter areas.
One other question, I have been told on another travel forum that many B & Bs, cottage, cabins are not legally licensed and that it is my responsibility to assure that we are staying somewhere legit?
Any comments or advice would be great.
Thanks

VRBO is probably the best bet for valid rentals (you can check for their tax ids). A condo complex affords privacy, space, and other amenities at reasonable prices, and you can find lodging all over the island. However, I'd rethink moving all over: you really probably could see everything from 2 home bases, without spending time and effort moving repeatedly (it's the big island, but if you check your distances, not big enough that you have to set up new camps over and over). Volcano, Hilo or Pahoa (or both), and a resort condo such as those at Waikoloa would enable you to explore everywhere.

Our first time on the Big Island we did the same thing you are thinking - week in Kailua-Kona, two nights in Ka'u at Sea Mountain (for volcano visit - more on this in a minute) and three nights in Hilo. There are pros and cons to moving around, you have to decide how much you want to drive. We ended up eventually buying a condo at Sea Mountain and love it's rural, remote location and the fact we could walk to Punalu'u Beach (below photo)...we would have never even found this small condo complex if we hadn't done our 'round the island trip. (The black sand beach took a while to get used to...now we love it...gets really hot and the beach is very rocky. The different experience and the lush oasis feeling of the spot is just great.)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71a1a79bde.jpg


If you decide to do two locations, you can accomplish as much without moving so often. A few quick thoughts...

Get a copy of the Big Island Revealed, too. Great guide book. Overall, your plan looks good. Depending on your desired places to visit, you may want an additional day on Kona side and just one location on Hilo side. You may not need 3 locations.

Something like this - we like to go by car and have a blend of things to do on any given day...love small towns - if you enjoy car trips and stopping along the way:

One day toward Hawi - might want to go all the way to Pololu Valley lookout and hike down to the beach.
Visit Waimea area - our least favorite part of the BI because it really resembles our full time home in many ways and it's really cool there (temperature) much of the time. Not that it's a bad place, mind you...just not our favorite although Tropical Dreams ice cream comes from here...chocolate coconut macadamia nut...mmmmmm.

If you want a partial beach day - half a day is often enough for us in the intense sun - Hapuna is a good choice (although the Kohala coast offers many, many choices, most closer to Kailua-Kona). First few trips to Hawaii Island, we did alternating beach days and sightseeing days. The half beach days were good for exploring lesser visited beaches or hard to get to beaches (hike in / out) and then spending the evening at our condo or evening in Kailua town. It's fun there for a few days...lots of typical vacation stuff.

A little bit to the south: A day in coffee country / Captain Cook area. Be sure to visit Place of Refuge and stop by the Painted Church (short but nice visit). Many small towns in the route too. Get in and out. If you snorkel, Two Step is adjacent to Place of Refuge. Any tourist related things like dinner cruises, luau, etc are best done in Kailua area. Few, if any choices elsewhere on island.

If you want to visit the summit of Mauna Kea, this can be done from either side...takes up much of the day and many ways to get there from on your own to on a tour ($$$ expensive). But, your rental car may limit your ability to get to the telescopes, think about this in advance. 4WD required.

Save the Southern-most part of island, Hamakua Coast, Waipio Valley, all Hilo side (including the neat and diverse Hilo beaches) and Volcanoes for when you are staying elsewhere. Spend more than one day at VNP - especially if you like hiking. IT's a huge park and most visitors don't plan enough time here (usually because they drive back to Kailua Kona or Kohala coast and have long in and back drives - tough at night on narrow, dark, curvy roads that most people aren't used to).

Just quick thoughts and opinions - I'm at work :-) but happy to elaborate on anything. Don't be afraid of Hilo's rainy reputation...it's a great place with neat and vastly different feel than Kailua kona. Don't shortchange your visit here - lots to see and do. The lush vegetation and tropical jungle feel around and north of Hilo is so awesome. Just visited the Botanical Gardens for the first time last year, it's a great place...way more interesting than I would have thought. We passed it up for a couple of years.

Just a note on the day you arrive. If it is late in the day, then just get a night in a hotel that is fairly close to the airport so you are not driving on unfamiliar, curvy, small roads in the dark when you are tired from the flight.

Our flight is not booked yet, flying from Toronto, Canada, most 1 stop flights seem to arrive about 7pm, what time is it dark? Planned but not booked yet first stay-I have spoken with them 3 nights- at Hale Maluhia Country Inn, approx 11 miles south of the airport. We have done a lot of long distance road trips so yes the distances in comparison are very short.
I looked at places in stay in Volcano village and found several that would be fine but haven't looked at accommodation in the Hilo area yet. We could easily leave a day later adding a day to the trip.
We are I suppose a bit geeky, and do things that many other people have no interest in. We don't golf and I can't swim further than about 50 feet, we don't shop,rain doesn't bother us, yes we are more than a little geeky.
We like scenic drives, explore and stop at interesting places along the way, lots of picture taking, history is good, natural or human. We like to see places that are as different as possible to home or places we have already been to.
My possible places to visit list is always huge, with no conceivable way of going to everywhere on the list, it does give us lots of choice if weather is uncooperative, or we have an off day.
My husband if given complete control would spend most of the vacation at VNP, exploring every possible square inch of the park. I am the trip planner so i get to make the final decisions. A tour to the summit of Mauna Kea is a possibility, the star gazing programs would be a perfect fit for my husband, the Imiloa Astronomy Center, Hilo is probably a must see. . we would probably like the Pacific Tsunami Museum. I am a horticulturalist so the Botanical garden is also a must see.
Other items on the list are the submarine tour at Kona, a helicopter tour, Wailuku River State Park, Liliuokalani Park and Gardens, Akaka Falls, Kalopa State Recreation Area, Black and or green sand beaches, Lava Tree State Park, petroglyphs, maybe a tour in the Waipio Valley, just looking back at this list and thinking most of it is on the south and east of the island.
I'll think more on this-I have to shovel the drive, lots of snow last night!
Any more suggestions are very welcome
Thanks

Here are some things most people I know don't do
Caves
There's a state park near Hilo (Kaumana cave) on Kaumana Drive (near "Saddle Road"): a very long lava tube cave with carved graffiti dating back to the 1800s. There's a good stairway down, parking, restrooms. One of my favorite stops.
On the Old Mamalahoa highway, east of Waimea (my preferred route across the island from Waimea), there are several lava tube caves that can be explored. Keep a sharp eye out (or get/make a map that shows them), they are often around corners, overhung with green growth.
Kula Kai caverns are in Ocean View (south side) have guided tours.
Stars
Because there is very little light pollution, you can save yourself a scary drive and $$ by just going out away from lights and lying on a blanket; awesome stars!
Kalopa was underwhelming to me, and a long drive up the mountain, but to a botanist the native trees might be well worth the trip. I love Lava Tree.
If you like the lava tree molds in Lava Tree park, check out the ones up past Volcano, just before Mauna Loa Road in the park. Mauna Loa Road is also the site of the kipuka puaulu (bird park) trail.
Everyone loves the waterfall stops in Hilo; a very quick stop, a few minutes apart.

Some great suggestions for us, just thinking if i had said we are geeky on inquiries for previous trips about places to visit I might have got better suggestions. I'm missing things to do on the west side of the island, we usually try to stay 3 nights in one area before moving on.
Any geeky suggestions?

Hmmm, west Hawaii...geeky...
My aunt just did the submarine ride last week, enjoyed but not overwhelmed. I have not done.
Seahorse farm in Kona!
Kona Pacific Farmers Co-op (very nice if you are into agriculture as I am). http://kpfc.com/
Visit both Mrs. Barry's Cookies and the Hula Lamps of Hawaii Store in the industrial park area.
Just a few quick things that pop into mind. Will ask my wife for more!

North of the resorts on the west, Kawaihae harbor area is fun (whale watching from the pier in season) and the NHS heiau there is well worth a visit (there's a nice little beach to the south).
Heading north, the Lapakahi state historical park is the ruins of an ancient fishing village, and has nice footpaths and lovely views.
farther north is the Kamehameha birth place, and an ancient heaiu (human sacrifice; weird vibes there), state historic sites. They are difficult to access without a 4WD, although it supposedly can be done. (I always find the road rutted and very rough for a rental).
There are beach parks here and there for a nice picnic lunch;my fav is Keokea, a pretty drive with views, an old cemetery, crashing waves, pavilion, and restrooms. I always like to check out beach access!
there are some nice historic churches (Hawi and Kapaau) on the way to the end of the road at Pololu and the steep hike to the black sand beach.
The back way to Waimea (250) is a pretty drive with terrific coastline views.

We stayed at the Kilauea Lodge near VNP and had our own little cottage. It was really cute, and they had a restaurant on site.

The Kilauea Lodge and Ohelo Cafe are our two favorite Volcano restaurants. If you end up staying in that area, they are both worth checking out.

We've had three visits to the island of Hawaii.

Highly recommend this lodging in Volcano Village. It was perfect to enjoy the park before the day trippers and then explore further out and enjoy the evening glow at any hour. The gates are open.

There are lots of beautiful rentals. We loved this place
dream vacation rental

On the other side we have stayed here. it is an easy drive to Waimea, hawi historic sites, mountain rd and humpback highway, 5 minutes to the harbor and a few more to beaches. Ali is a great host. We have stayed here overall 24 nights.

https://www.vrbo.com/206093#location

If it interest you, pm me and I can give you direct contact info

Just a note on booking with VRBO - you're better off to book directly with the owners as in the top example over the third party site...VRBO charges a 6% to 12% "service fee" to you as the guest. We have two vacation rentals and removed our listings completely from VRBO when they started getting greedy a year or two ago. They charge the owner to be on the site in the first place, then they charge the owner a fee per booking...plus a fee for booking to you as the guest. They make it all but impossible for us to communicate with guests directly.

There are LOTS and LOTS of direct from owner rentals available on the Big Island. Most owners who are serious about their rentals will have a website like the Dream Vacation Rental above and others. If you are interested, our URLs are listed in my public profile.

A long response just got deleted, but I'll try again. I don't like VRBO''s double (not triple) dipping either (I've complained here repeatedly), but there are some assurances they provide, like insurance and protection on refunds, and payment processing. You can contact the owner via the VRBO site and ask for email or phone for detailed info/questions, if you want to try to rent directly: however, many owners prefer the service of fund gathering provided by VRBO, and don't care to collect checks/cc data themselves (thus avoiding setting up a merchant account).
So, lots of worthy listings are on VRBO, and are still a good alternative to hotels and agencies.
​​​​​​

I don't want to hijack this thread...I'm with you Sylvia, there are many reasons to be chafed by their greedy nature. They do provide services for their fees and it's up to homeowners and travelers to decide if the expenses are worth it. Many will, many (like us) won't. It's been a few years since we dealt with them...I was under the impression that they 1) charged the owner to be on the site 2) charged a 3% - 5% fee to owner at booking for processing payment and then 3) charged a 6% to 12% "service fee" to the guest...thus my trip dip insinuation.

'Highly recommend this lodging in Volcano Village. It was perfect to enjoy the park before the day trippers and then explore further out and enjoy the evening glow at any hour. The gates are open.'
Thanks for this comment, it is why we intend to have 3 places to stay, west, south and east, so we are able to get into VNP easily and have more time exploring rather than wasting time and gas driving.
There are lots of good choices on VRBO, often the prices per night listed are completely unrelated to the final cost which i find frustrating as we have a limited budget. Is there ever problems with getting the often significant 'refundable' damage deposit back? We had an issue with that several years ago here, the cottage owner kept forgetting to return our money. Is that returned by the credit card you used?
Some places I have looked at say they only take cheques or postal orders, which would make it impossible for us, I'm not sure if postal orders even exist here now. Are e-transfers used at all? I don't know when I was last in an actual bank building, I think about a year ago.

I can only speak for our two rentals...but I suspect many owners who are hands-on managers will have similar operations...we prefer check payment but make credit cards available to our customers if they wish to pay the transaction fee. We have many people who do bank transfers / e-checks.

Regarding the deposit amount, we have had hundreds of nights a year in both rentals and have kept only a portion of the deposit in two instances. Good communication is the key to that.

Hopefully that helps. As I explained above, when you get into the VRBO / Airbnb / TripAdvisor situation there's an intermediary and they offer some services - like holding the damage deposit and returning it after your stay. I personally feel that there are more benefits to booking direct, but others do not. It's merely a matter of opinion.

Our own traveling experiences when we have booked directly with owners have resulted in cleaner, more well maintained units / properties than those managed by "professional" managers or detached owners. For what it's worth, here is our Hawaii place - it's 30 minutes from VNP but at the ocean instead of at elevation. https://beachwoodhawaiicondo.com/

Tjm, the step 2 you mentioned is not done.
op, the price is almost always more because the tax (about 14 percent) and cleaning fee are not included in the nightly rate. Add the VRBO charges, and maybe security deposit, and it all increases. HOWEVER: VRBO now keeps the security deposit to refund to the renter. That and the security of using a credit card are added piece of mind to those who are trepedacious about dealing with owners directly or using money orders or checks.
And, when do you ever pay a hotel a nightly rate ( without tax, resort fees, parking, etc.)?

Oops, sorry, the # 2 fee you refer to is the cc fee collected by VRBO, correct? My bad!

I have paid parking when staying at a city hotel, tax is usually not included except in the UK where listed prices usually include it, I haven't paid a resort fee, or a cleaning fee, service fee, booking fee etc. I was surprised by the amount of add ons in the final price, now I know what's not included I know not to think that a lower nightly rate shown will result in a lower overall cost, that's all

Lower than what? Probably much lower than a hotel such as the Marriott, Hilton, Prince, etc. Maybe more than Uncle Billy's (under new management), but you won't get 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, living room, kitchen, and private lanai, either. A $125/nt might end up (with apprx.14% tax and avg. Cleaning fee of 150 for a stay) as about $1150 per week. Still a good deal, if you like having more space, privacy, ability to fix meals, etc., than a hotel offers.
These days in the USA, hotels in popular areas will gouge you with fees they didn't disclose, for services you didn't use.
Just caveat emptor, and know what's important to you on vacation.:)

Hotels are trying to compete with vacation rentals by adding on fees like ornaments on a Christmas tree...the biggest one is the "resort fee". We had a "linens fee" not too far back. Aside from tax, which hits visitors through the transient accommodation tax,our only add-on is cleaning charge. We experimented with an all in one pricing but in the end it's unfair to the longer stays as we ultimately raised the nightly cost to cover the cleaning expense. Plus, in Hawaii (when remitting as merchant) it matters if the tax is or isn't visibly passed along to the consumer.

Still, as noted above, in the end a vacation rental almost always is less expensive and better (in terms of bigger & more amenities such as kitchen). Just ask questions before you book and see a complete price. One of my frustrations is that we charge a fully refundable damage deposit that makes the final balance due seem extremely high. Yet, most guests are wonderful and we nearly never have to retain even a small portion of the deposit.

Bookmarking your site, TJM; looks terrific! (Any good snorkeling at your beach?) and

Thanks for the kind comment, it's a very unusual spot - isolated and rural but with a small resort. We love it there.

Punalu'u Beach is an interesting place...you read in many guide books that it's not recommended for swimming, but, we swim there frequently as do many locals. There are fresh water springs flowing into the sea here, so the water is a little cooler. Ka'u doesn't have too many beaches in general, so it's one of the better due to access and the fact (which I love) that it has lifeguards ( a huge plus for visitors). Snorkeling there is fun but it's a lava rock bottom so no coral to speak of, so it's just very different. There are a LOT of green sea turtles, always, and the beach itself draws a lot of visitors. All in all, for a place we can walk to in 10 minutes or so, fantastic. South East facing, so great for sunrises and we frequently walk over there at that time. Popular with locals and gets lots of day trip visitors who want to see a black sand beach.

We looked at your complex a decade ago; just couldn't put a plan together for a second home!

Lower rate explanation; After looking through many vacation rentals I found that for example one place might give the nightly rate $150, and then add on booking fee, management fee, cleaning fee etc adding up to the total cost per night, another place that gave a nightly rate of $195, added less extra fees and ended up with a total cost per night that was less than the first example, meaning I can't go by the listed rate per night as an indication of what the total cost would be

To be fair, this scenario is the same with just about any hotel any more. There's the rate and then surprise fees (in most instances) and, of course, taxes.

I am like you and prefer an all-in price to make an apples to apples comparison. But, it's tough. In our condo complex, there are (naturally) many units for rent. Our price listed one OTA site is the price with taxes included, many other owners add the tax later...thus creating the scenario you refer to: our listing, with a seemingly higher price initially, ends up being less expensive after the whole price is considered. It's a case where the cautious consumer will come out ahead but it requires homework.

I live on Oahu but visit the Big Island a fair bit--- I highly reccomend making Hilo your home base for exploring Volcano national park. The drive isn't particularly long and the food options are better and more numerous in Hilo. As for lava viewing I highly reccomend hiking Kalapana---its approximately 7 or 8 miles roundtrip on relatively flat trail. For the best viewing go at night---later is better to avoid the crowds. As long as you bring water and a flash light it's a very manageable hike in the dark. If you start the trail after 8pm you will be rewarded with stunning views of red hot lava hissing and gushing into the sea and very few crowds at the end. The stars above are pretty spectacular too. There is also an option to rent bikes, but we elected not to as the bikes have to be returned by 9 or 10pm. For food in Hilo I highly reccomend Nuang Mai thai or Pineapples Kitchen (get their plate lunch if you want to go more local). If you like hiking I highly suggest hiking down to Pololu beach (black sand beach with dramatic coast---a little bit like big sur)...or if you want more of a challenge hike down Waipio valley (it's basically just a steeply graded asphalt road) then trek across the valley to start the "Z trail"---this is definitely a rigorous hike but you are rewarded with stunning views quite quickly. The entire z trail requires an overnight camping adventure in one of the adjacent valleys, but the hike is well worth the effort if you decide to forgo the camping and instead only complete a small portion of the trail.

for Kona side I highly reccomend avoiding the resorts--- they are so expensive and so removed from Hawaii culturally. Stay in Kona instead in a condo or airbnb---will cost significantly less and place you within the community. There's also some pretty tasty food--- if you want to eat local seek out "plate lunch" or Asian food (very good thai, malay, Vietnamese etc). For a truly amazing beach experience--- go to Kiholo bay to look for turtles ;) every time I've gone to Kiholo I've seen at least 15 to 20 turtles relaxing on the sand and feeding in the shallows. Much better than any mixed drink and umbrella that the resorts can offer. Finally for a really unique experience try the night snorkeling with Manta Rays. I know you said you are a bit fearful in the water, so perhaps one of the tour companies can provide some assistance or flotation device....it truly is a spectacular other worldly experience

Since OP has discussed lodging pricing and "surprise fees"...thought this might be a good fit for thread.

Just came across this piece from Budget Travel about hidden hotel fees - probably worth a read - trends are changing in lodging but the smart traveler can still get good deals. Overall lodging prices have remained stable in spite of a "great recession" dampened pipeline of new hotel rooms (shrinking supply) in the face of ever higher numbers of traveling public...thanks to a surge in peer to peer renting, rentals from owner, homesharing and so forth.

https://www.budgettravel.com/article...den-hotel-fees

Thanks, helpful article, including the resortfee links. Such gouging going on!

Thanks for all the advice, i'm sure i'll be back with more questions

Topping. Thanks for all who contributed here. Lot's of good advice that will be very helpful.

Following for future travels. Quick question, where do you all book your vacation, flights? Costco?

Flights: if miles aren't an issue, do a google flight search/kayak and then go to the airline website to book (safer than 3rd party)
We like VRBO because we don't like hotels. If you prefer hotels, hotels.com and booking.com are pretty good.
Cars through Costco or discounthawaiirentalcar.
Costco also has good packages if you want to go that route.

Hawaii is an incredible place and the Big Island is especially unique...I bet you'll love it.

Advice to hike at Kalapana above - check first to see if there is ocean entry and decide if you want to commit the time to this event or not if it is not going into the ocean. You'd likely still see lava glowing in the fields at night...but it's really dramatic when it's hitting the sea and exploding in the fury of new earth being born. An awesome sight that actually deserves the word "awesome". You can check volcano status here:
https://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/lava2.htm

Also, as of yesterday, the lava lake in the caldera is very high - it goes up and down - but make time to see during the day and at night if it's very active - as it has been over the last year or so. Your trip sounds wonderful - have a great time.