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Old May 16th, 2007, 08:44 PM
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Big Island - Beaches, Hiking, Dining

Hello Fellow Travelers:

I am very excited that my husband and I will be traveling to the Big Island for 9 days to celebrate our (8th) Anniversary, leaving a week from Saturday! We will be spending 2 nights in Volcano and 6 in the Kona area. We have never been to the Big Island and we are looking forward to enjoying the beaches, sites, scenery, and culture, and would love to get ‘off the beaten path’ if possible.

Any advice on the best beaches to visit (at this time) for scenic beauty, relaxation, and/or snorkeling?

In addition to the Kealakeakua Bay for kayaking (and snorkeling), are there other kayaking trips or areas that would be enjoyable?

I would also appreciate hiking recommendations. We plan to do the lava hike from the Chain of Craters Road (and have read several wonderful reports, including that from DoctorCarrie, thank you!), but we would be interested in additional recommendations in Volcano or other areas. We are very fit and do not mind long hikes.

Finally, I am a non-fish-eating vegetarian. Any advice on good restaurants with vegetarian choices (including Thai, Vietnamese, Italian, etc.)? Are there restaurants that would be good for a special night that would also offer vegetarian choices?

Any other advice or sites/stops you would recommend for an active, adventurous, 30-something couple?

Thanks very much for your input!
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Old May 16th, 2007, 08:53 PM
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Our absolute favorite beach in Hawaii was Hapuna Beach. It's gorgeous! We stayed at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel, and I believe the beach is public. Highly, highly recommend.

We also stayed at the Kilauea Lodge in Volcano and did the night hike out to the volcano and got to see it flowing into the sea. It was really amazing. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and take a flashlight - 2 things I didn't do!
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Old May 16th, 2007, 09:01 PM
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Lots of sites you can look through:

www.gohawaii.com

www.hawaiiweb.com

www.bigisland.org

www.hawaiitrails.org

www.thisweek.com

www.spotlighthawaii.com

www.101thingstodo.com

www.alternative-hawaii.com Good driving tours & restaurant guide

www.driveguidemagazines.com Good maps & restaurant guide

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Old May 17th, 2007, 06:35 AM
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Hi Vanessa,

Clearly you've read my trip report, but I wanted to reiterate that Kauna'oa Beach, which is the one near Mauna Kea resort on the Kohala Coast, was by far our favorite. You have to arrive early or late, because they limit parking passes to 30 members of the public, but especially now with the resort closed, it makes it that much more isolated and lovely. Beautiful white sand, shady trees, gorgeous calm blue water, and the snorkeling was out of this world! You might also enjoy hiking more around Kiholo Bay or Puna - there are more isolated hot springs and serene, isolated ponds, places like the Champagne Pond, you can get to from both of those places through hiking - definitely off the beaten path.

On a "Road Not Taken" note, some of the hikes that we'd heard excellent things about (both before and talking to folks we met along the way), but were unable to do include the Kileauea Iki trail (only 3.4 miles); the Wild Lava Tube (must reserve in advance with Park Service, they only take 12 people!); and further hiking in the Waipio Valley - I would love to have done an overnight trip up the Z Trail in the Valley. We met people coming back who had done it and they said it was amazing! One of our fellow B&B guests had hiked to the summit of Mauna Kea and really enjoyed it, as well as doing some extensive hiking around the Mauna Loa Forest Reserve, which he said was beautiful.

For kayaking, (the "Sea Not Taken," I guess...) we would have liked to kayak to the sea caves off of Honaunau Bay (near Place of Refuge). If you leave early in the morning, you can combine this trip with kayaking in Kealakeakua Bay - they're very close, and that way you'd only have one kayak rental. (We decide to be a little lazy in the morning...)Here's some info: http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/honaunau/kayak.html

Hope that helps and enjoy! Cheers, Carrie



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Old May 17th, 2007, 07:13 AM
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In Kona, stop by Kona Brewing company for some tasty beers and pizza...lots of vegetarian offerings (including my favorite of wild mushrooms with chevre and mozzarella). For a fancier meal, head to Pahu I'a at the Four Seasons. Their vegetarian options are limited, but fantastic. Aloha Angel Cafe also has vegetarian options...loved my salad with soba noodles and grilled tofu. You won't go hungry!
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Old May 17th, 2007, 11:12 AM
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We like the Thai Thai restaurant in Volcano, nex to the hardware store. In Hilo the Natural Food store by the Borders bookstore has a good vegetarian selection in their deli. Have a great time!
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Old May 17th, 2007, 11:39 AM
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Following up Doctor Carrie's reccomendation, the Kilauea Iki trail at Volcano's Nat'l Park is a fantastic hike.
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Old May 17th, 2007, 12:45 PM
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Check out KonaWeb http://www.konaweb.com/ for restaurants Kona side and other info about Kona.

Also Restaurant Kaikodo in Hilo has some vegie selections http://www.restaurantkaikodo.com/
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Old May 17th, 2007, 01:26 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the wonderful recommendations! Having this personal input is extremely helpful, to ensure that we hit some of the highlights, especially those we may not have discovered on our own. I am very excited! It certainly seems that we will suffer neither hunger nor boredom on this trip.

We will definitely hit Hapuna Beach, Kauna'oa Beach (early or late), and the Kileauea Iki trail. If time permits, we will hopefully try some of the other suggested hikes as well, e.g., around the Mauna Loa Forest Reserve, Waipo, or Puna. Carrie, do you know how one goes about booking the Lava Tube hike with the forest service?

Sea caves at Honaunau Bay for kayaking also sounds wonderful. Incidentally, research from other sources (e.g., Trip Advisor) suggests that it might not be wise to kayak/snorkel in Kealakeakua Bay, due to the existing environmental damage. Does anyone know if the concerns are general (i.e., better to avoid the area) or specific (e.g., perhaps kayaking into the bay would be OK, but not beaching the kayak to snorkel)?

Thanks also for the restaurant ideas and search sources. Perfect!

Cheers!
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Old May 17th, 2007, 03:12 PM
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We did the snorkeling in Kealakekua Bay and were not terribly impressed. It's a beautiful boat ride, but we didn't really see many fish or much variety. We had much better luck snorkeling right off the beach in Kauai. It's nice to see the monument, but we had heard about all the spinner dolphins and a variety of colored fish, and we just saw the same yellow ones (maybe tangs?) over and over.
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Old May 17th, 2007, 06:07 PM
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Vanessa,
The Lava Tube hike is held every Wed. The hike begins around noon to 12:30 and lasted about 4 or 5 hours. The actual time in the tube is about 1 hour but you have to hike to the tube and return, thus the additional time. The number is 808-985-6017. This is VNP number. They only take appointment exactly one week prior to the actual hike. Limit is 12 people, no children under 10. This hike requires climbing down a ladder.
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Old May 18th, 2007, 06:30 AM
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Vanessa,

Exactly what Hanalei said - the only thing I can add is they start taking calls for reservations at 7:45 AM.

As for Kealakekua Bay, I could see how environmental damage could be possible, since there are an awful lot of folks that go there. It certainly could get pretty crowded. But I would have trouble believing kayaking is particularly heinous, since the only other two ways to get there are through gas-guzzling boats or 4WD. You beach the kayaks on lava rocks, which strike me as hard to damage. The reef looked pretty healthy, but it is very shallow there, so I can imagine it would be vulnerable to all sorts of things. It would be pretty easy for an inexperienced or careless snorkeler to stand on the reef itself!

I'm surprised at Volcangirl's response - we saw a huge variety at Kealakekua (as a diver, I'm sort of nerdy about recording species). There were lots of tangs, but there were also triggerfish, puffers, butterfly fish, lots of parrotfish, angelfish, longnose, and my personal favorites, trumpetfish. We also saw at least three eels, there. Plus many more. And not in small quantities!

(Boy am I ready to go back...) Cheers, Carrie
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Old May 18th, 2007, 09:30 AM
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Vanessa, don't let our experience hold you back; we could have easily been there on an off day. It sounds like Carrie had much better luck than we did.

Also, if you have a chance to get to Akaka Falls, it's really beautiful - I believe it's over 400 feet tall and one of the prettiest waterfalls I've seen. Enjoy your trip!
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Old May 18th, 2007, 01:38 PM
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Thanks again for the additional input and information. I truly can't wait! Cheers!
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Old May 18th, 2007, 05:35 PM
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Time of day makes a difference when snorkeling, especially at Kealakekua Bay. Many fish species have two "rush hours" a day, just like humans: in the first hour of sunlight in the morning and last hour of sunlight in the evening. Between the two, many species are out eating and doing their daily errands .

A side benefit of going early AM/late PM is, you'll have to deal with far fewer boats and people in the bay.
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Old May 18th, 2007, 09:04 PM
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I just got a really funny mental picture of fish off running errands... LOL!
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Old Jun 5th, 2007, 08:34 AM
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Hanalei, What is the Lava Tube Hike that you refer to on Wednesdays? I am guessing this is a ranger led hike, but is it much more than what we could see on our own - please advise as I am planning our August trip and we will be in VNP all day on a Wednesday - thanks for your help
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Old Jun 8th, 2007, 06:24 PM
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Gymrat,
The lava tube tour on Wednesday that you must booked exactly a week ahead is led by VNP rangers and I have never been. I read about it in the Big Island Revealed Book and also from DoctorCarrie here. I was on the island 5/31 until yesterday. I called the week before the Wednesday I wanted to hike at 7:40 AM and the line was busy. I could not get through until past 8:00 AM; and by that time, it's fully booked. Word of warning, when the line is busy, you get this message that says the number is not a working number. I tried the VNP's main line and they gave the same 6017 extension. They said they realized that quite a few callers get the non-working number message when they dialed 6017.

I took another 4 hour lava tube tour with Harry Schick. This tube runs somewhere near the Volcano all the way down to Hawaiian Paradise Park subdivision. The 4 hour tour is only 2 miles, but there are a lot of stopping points where Harry pointed out various things. The tube is behind his property in Fern Acres subdivision. Tube is called Kazumura. Here is the link:

http://www.fortunecity.com/oasis/angkor/176/

It's $10/person for 2 hour tour and $20/person for 4 hours. He takes maximum 6 people per tour. You go further into the cave with 4 hour tour and there are neater stuffs than the 2 hours. This requires climbing about 3 ladders and 1 rope. My kids, ages 14 and 16, had no problem.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 06:21 AM
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Hanalei, Thanks so much for the info - that hike looks amazing. One last question is would it be a problem if you are afraid of heights? It looks like it is just a series of ladders and then you are on stable ground the rest of the time. Looking forward to your answer. Thanks again
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 08:26 AM
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Aloha Gymrat,
None of us are afraid of height. To tell you the truth, we concentrated on the steps themselves so we did not look down while climbing. While waiting for each individual to climb down, you could look down... and for some people that might create a problem. However, I don't think it's more than 8 ft high. I hope that helps. Let me know if you need more info.
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