Family trip - driving from SF to LAX

Old Jul 26th, 2017, 01:29 PM
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Family trip - driving from SF to LAX

Hi all,

Thanks to all the Fodorites for the invaluable input on our road trip from SF to LA. Just to give some context – we are a family of four from Canada with two tween girls. We like outdoor activities and trying different foods. Older daughter is especially interested in science-related stuff. I like art museums and wine as well but the family did not want to indulge me on this trip as on previous trips to Europe. ��

Our favourite part of the trip was definitely San Francisco/Monterey Peninsula area and the parts of Big Sur we could access. I was surprised by how cold we found the coastal areas in July – it was about 15 degrees cooler than our summer temps! Had no choice but to go in July given our various schedules. Sharing our trip report below in case it may be of use to future folks researching similar trips! Part I is below.

Day 1 – San Francisco
• Flight landed at 9 am so we had some time to kill before we could check in to our AirBnB in North Beach. Even though we it was foggy we took a chance given that it was so early and drove up to Twin Peaks. Fog cleared a bit for a picture. Drove by the Painted Ladies and the “Full House” house for selfies for the girls. After dropping off our bags, we made our way to Fisherman’s Wharf but it was not really my scene. We enjoyed a good lunch at Boudin Bakery and did the self-guided Boudin bakery tour. It was a good way to sneak in some history for the kids. We had a fun time at the Musee Mecanique for about an hour. We also visited Pier 39 to see a few sea lions and Pier 33 to upgrade our pre-purchased Alcatraz tickets to City Passes (a good deal – also includes unlimited transit, including cable cars).
• Location in North Beach was terrific – we liked to have our dinners in (picked up groceries and prepared foods) but could take a walk after dinner for gelato and cappuccino, visited City Lights bookstore and kids really liked this neighbourhood park (Joe DiMaggio).

Day 2 – Muir Woods/Marin headlands
• Took advantage of jet lag to be up early to drive to Muir Woods. Arrived by 8:30 am and the closest parking lot was already full, so we parked in the next closest parking lot. After a few hours’ hike we drove to Sausalito for lunch and had an amazing sushi lunch at Sushi Ran. Drove around the Marin headlands after lunch and had very interesting docent-led tours of both the Nike missile base and the Marine Mammal Centre. Kids especially enjoyed learning about the marine mammal hospital and their rescue work. I think the docent-led tours of both places (about 5 min drive apart) were really worth it – there is a self-guided option but don’t think you would get as much out of it.
• Drove back to SF stopping at the lookout points recommended by Stu Dudley in the GGNRA (Konzelman Rd). It was extremely foggy on the drive over (i.e., we couldn’t even see the GG bridge we were driving over). Late afternoon was clear and we got some great pics of the bridge, but parking was a challenge.
• Pretty tired so we ordered in Burmese food – have always wanted to try it and we have no Burmese restaurants. That tea leaf salad is amazing!

Day 3 – San Francisco
• Morning walking tour of Chinatown with Wok Wiz Walking Tours. Very fun for kids – they enjoyed visiting the fortune cookie factory, tea shop, temple, and especially the markets with the live chickens! Enjoyable dim sum lunch with the tour guide and group.
• Walked to the cable car museum (free and worth a stop) and took the cable car to Lombard to walk down Lombard.
• Pit stop to refuel at Ghirardelli. Line up for ice cream was very long. We got some chocolates to go and enjoyed an iced coffee in the plaza across from Ghirardelli. There were some cute shops in that plaza.
• Picked up delicious lasagna from the Homemade Italian company and crashed early.

Day 4 – San Francisco
• Had booked early tour (8:45 am) to Alcatraz. My kids especially found the tour interesting. Back in time for lunch at the Ferry Market Plaza (Hog Island oyster company for mains and Humphrey Slocombe for dessert). Was hoping to visit the Wells Fargo museum but forgot it is closed on weekends! Decided to walk to Exploratorium to check it out since it was included with our City Passes (as were the cable car rides). Very sprawling place – kids enjoyed it but not as much as the MOXI museum in Santa Barbara (which we visited later in the trip). Didn’t get tickets to the Tactile dome as I am a bit claustrophobic but apparently it is a highlight!
• Dinner in – picked up pizza from Tony’s pizza. For the price ($35 CAD for one pizza) thought it was disappointing. The margherita was better than the Sicilian one.

Day 5 Drive to Pacific Grove
• Early morning drive to our next AirBnB in Pacific Grove. Stopped at Mavericks for a photo op (I am a big surfing fan). Had a delicious lunch at Phil’s Fish Market in Moss Landing. Hubby and I shared the cioppino (more than enough for 2 people!) and kids shared chowder and calamari. Had to stop in Castroville for artichokes and photo op with the giant artichoke. Got some nice produce at a roadside stand (we definitely don’t have avocados so cheaply!).
• It was very cold, windy and foggy so we skipped our planned kayak tour of Elkhorn Slough.
• Checked in to AirBnB and walked to Lover’s Beach. Kids were brave enough to swim – water too cold for hubby and I! Very nice lookout point from beach though. Enjoyed the cottage we had rented in Pacific Grove – very quaint.

Day 6 – Point Lobos/Carmel
• Early morning drive to Point Lobos. This was a highlight for me – beautiful hiking. Enjoyed seeing the sea lions and had a picnic lunch near Bird Island. Definitely worth getting there early for a parking spot.
• Drove further south to Bixby Bridge and a little into Big Sur area. Unfortunately still a bit foggy that day but still got some nice views.
• Came back via Carmel valley where it was nice and sunny and a good 10 degrees warmer! Stopped at Earthbound Farms for some nice produce and a smoothie. Kids stretched their legs in the mini labyrinth and garden.
• Stopped in Carmel-by-the-Sea. It was quaint but I was not blown away – maybe because I have travelled extensively in Europe I am a bit jaded.

Day 7 – Monterey
• Monterey Bay Aquarium day! Arrived for opening and it was very pleasant (i.e., kids spent all the time they wanted at the touch pools). It got very crowded by 11 am. Managed to see a few of the feedings. Felt like we had seen enough by noon.
• Went back home for lunch and rented bikes. Biked along the coastal path from Pacific Grove, around Cannery Row, Fisherman’s Wharf and back. Cannery Row and Fisherman’s Wharf not my scene again. Glad we were just biking and stopped for an ice cream.
• Returned the bikes at Lover’s Beach and kids went for a swim again.
• Celebratory last dinner at Roy’s at the Inn at Spanish Bay (we have a fondness for Roy’s from previous trips to Hawaii). Did 17 mile drive (overrated IMHO – scenery just as nice along coast in Pacific Grove!) and stopped to see the sunset at Asilomar Beach. TIP: A bagpiper comes out at the Inn at Spanish Bay on the 18th hole around 6 pm – enjoyed a cocktail before dinner (“Pebble-tini”) by the firepit under blankets. Also, we got the 17 mile drive validated by dining at Roy’s (Note: didn’t need to pay twice – your receipt is good for entry to 17 mile drive the whole day).

Day 8 – drive to Cambria
• Because of the road closure we had to take the inland route through Paso Robles. Very agricultural scenery – not that interesting to me unfortunately. Convinced hubby we had to stop for lunch and a winery visit in any event. Picked up picnic provisions at the Red Scooter Deli in Paso Robles and had lunch at Eberle since you could bring your own lunch on the terrace. Very pretty scenery. The cave tour was interesting and we played a round of bocce ball. Very hot in Paso Robles!
• Drove onto Cambria and stopped at Nitt Witt Ridge. My husband likes these sorts of oddities. I must admit it was interesting (suggested fee of $10 per adult) – and a good contrast with the “other” castle in San Simeon nearby.
• Checked into Moonstone Landing. Went for a walk on the beach – very cool and windy.
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 01:57 PM
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Thanks for your report. Summer is our fog season and the hotter it is inland, the more the fog can linger on the coast. As you discovered, you don't have to drive far for the temps to go up. Sometimes it can be 20 degrees warmer in Carmel Valley. Glad you enjoyed Point Lobos. I was there this morning and saw about a dozen humpbacks offshore. I always tell everyone that the scenery along 17 Mile Drive looks much like the coastline of PG.
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 02:20 PM
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>>I was surprised by how cold we found the coastal areas in July –
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 02:22 PM
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Thanks, PAtty. I was surprised to learn that it is much warmer in September and October. Will have to go back then when the kids are older and we can get away! You are lucky to live in such a beautiful area!
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 03:36 PM
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Thanks, JanisJ. We at least packed our own hooded sweatshirts but I think I was wearing every layer we had packed!!

We try not to be on go from morning til night with the kids. We built in a few hours' down time in later afternoon to chill (or one afternoon they just wanted to ride the California line on the outside for an hour!) That meant we didn't get to see everything though! Originally we were supposed to see Golden Gate Park but someone recommended the Marine Mammal Centre so we stayed in Marin instead. I had wanted to see the Park and also visit the DeYoung museum because there was a special "Summer of Love" exhibit. My family was not as interested but if others are going to be in SF this summer I think that would be a really neat exhibit to see!

Just means hubby and I will have to back!
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 03:50 PM
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Part II of the trip report is below.

Day 8 – Cambria
• After a walk on the beach and a dip in the hot tub of our hotel, the Moonstone Landing, we decided to drive to Cayucos for dinner since I had heard it was a cute town and I really wanted to try Ruddell’s Fish Tacos. The fish tacos were as good as described! We got the tacos to go and ate overlooking the beach. Stopped at the Brown Butter Cookie Company for cookies to go for dessert. I liked them – but I like the combination of sweet and salty (sea salt). They were expensive but delicious. Then the kids played in the water and on the play structure on the beach.
• Note about Moonstone Landing Hotel – quiet, clean, and modern hotel. Breakfast was adequate but nothing more than that. There is a very small (but pleasant) hot tub on the property. It’s across the street from Moonstone Beach.

Day 9 – Cambria
• Had booked tickets for Hearst Castle for the first tour at 9 am. Arrived at the Visitor’s Centre by 8:30. There is a free movie showing and the massive and mandatory gift shop! Very interesting tour. I particularly enjoyed the gardens. Note that the famous outdoor pool is currently undergoing restoration. We only did one tour (Grand Rooms) as our kids’ attention span would not warrant more than the 2.5 hours we spent there. I believe that if you book multiple tours you have to go back to the Visitor’s Center which is a 20 minute drive down the very winding road – does not seem very efficient!
• Lunch down the road at Sebastien’s in San Simeon. Had burgers and the tri-tip sandwich (tri-tip was better). Enjoyed a glass of Hearst Winery Red. Drove to the Elephant Seal vista point – it was amazing to see them all on the beach so close (so close you could smell them, and they smelled bad!).
• Our only disappointing meal of the trip was at Indigo Moon in Cambria. Food was average at best with some dishes being bad. Definitely not worth the prices. I didn’t find Cambria as quaint as others have described it. If I were to do the trip again, I wouldn’t spend more than 1 night there or would just skip it to try and bed down in Cayucos or even SLO. We did want to be at the castle for 9 am so we chose Cambria to only be 10 mins away.

Day 10 – Drive to Santa Barbara – Morro Bay/SLO/Pismo Beach
• Stopped at Morro Bay for a picture of Morro Rock. Didn’t love this town – very industrial with a power plant in the background!
• Stopped in SLO for a coffee and photo op and – ahem – contribution to Bubblegum Alley (again, hubby likes these oddities). Really liked this town and wished we had stayed here instead of Cambria. Also visited the Mission in SLO – thought it was worth a stop.
• Booked the 11 am Hummer tour of the dunes in Pismo Beach with Pacific Adventures Tours. I could not imagine renting a dune buggy myself (and in fact, we saw many people stuck). It was a real thrill ride adventure – going forward, backward, and sideways along the dunes. Note that if you are susceptible to motion sickness you may want to ask the driver to ease up a bit.
• Lunch was at Mo’s Smokehouse in Pismo Beach which had been recommended. The Philthy Phil’s ribs were as good as advertised! Tri-tip sandwich just ok.
• Stopped at Laetitia Vineyards just out of town on the recommendation of a wine aficionado friend. Beautiful views and fantastic sparkling wine. I also enjoyed tasting the Pinot Noir. Kids played bocce outside while mommy did the tasting!
• Afternoon snack stop in Solvang. It was sort of like Disneyland meets Denmark. I didn’t love it but can see why people find it very quaint. Had a snack at Mortensen’s Bakery. The traffic was terrible going in and out of town. The transportation in town appeared to be by horse-drawn carriage!
• Arrived in Santa Barbara late afternoon – at the time, Hwy 140 was closed because of the forest fires so we took the 101.
• Checked into the Best Western Goleta. This unassuming hotel has a very nice pool and hot tub area and a good hot breakfast.
• Had one of our best meals at a Mexican restaurant in Goleta (think there are a few branches) called Los Agaves.
• The forest fires north of SB were unfortunately still raging. We actually had ash falling us in Goleta.


Day 11 – Santa Barbara
• Parked at the train station at around 9:00 am and admired the Moreton Fig Tree.
• Walked to the wharf and admired the sights. Then walked around SB and had a coffee. Arrived at the Museum of Exploration and Innovation (MOXI) for 10:00 am opening. This was one of the best “hands-on” science museums I have been to. It was really fun for the whole family.
• Lunch at Dawn Patrol on State Street. The chorizo hash was really good as were the smoothies. Other dishes just ok.
• Stopped at the SB Mission – only visited the exterior but it was really beautiful. Paid a visit to the SB court house around 2:00 (there is a tour available but we decided to skip it as I was dragging) and just climbed the stairs to the tower for stunning 360 degree views of SB. Really beautiful building. There was a couple getting married in the mural room.
• Shopping on State Street for the kids and had delicious ice cream at McConnell’s.
• Dinner was at Convivo near East Beach because the girls wanted to be able to go for a dip in the ocean where the water was warmer. I booked it for the views but forgot to request a table on the patio so we had to sit indoors (doh!). The pizza and the burrata/stone fruit salad were fantastic. Sort of overpriced (but I guess you are paying for the view).

Day 12 – Drive from SB to LA
• Early drive to Los Angeles. Had planned to take a leisurely route through Malibu but detoured in Encino to visit a friend so just stayed on the 101.
• Amazing lunch at Estrella. We had seen the “rolling stone” being made on Food Network's "Star Plates" and really wanted to try it (poached egg in an avocado wrapped in bacon and deep fried). It did not disappoint.
• Afternoon at La Brea Tar Pits. Visited the museum, watched the 3D movie, walked the grounds, and joined a free tour. Really worthwhile.
• Checked into our AirBnB a few minutes away near the Farmers’ Market and The Grove. Got groceries.
• Dinner at the Farmers’ Market. Particularly liked the food at the taqueria and Cajun places. Hubby got a crepe (very good too).

Day 13 – Los Angeles – Hollywood day!
• Parked near Hollywood Blvd early to start our visit near the TCL Theatre. Checked out the Walk of Fame and visited the Guinness Museum and Hollywood Wax Museum. Guinness Museum not that great but older daughter is particularly interested in those record books! Hollywood Wax Museum surprisingly fun (you can get VIP pass for Guinness Museum, Hollywood Wax Museum and Ripley’s Museum – we skipped Ripley's). Did a docent-led tour of the El Capitan Theater (very well worth the $8). Saw all the backstage areas, green rooms, changing rooms, the beautiful theater, and the Wurlitzer organ. Liked it so much we bought tickets to see the movie playing that evening (Cars 3).
• Lunch at Mel’s Diner. Kids loved the 50s diner décor. Cheeseburger was very good. Salads surprisingly good too.
• Afternoon spent at the pool and dinner in. Seeing the movie at El Capitan was well worth it – there was a live dance/acrobatics show beforehand and it was fascinating to see a movie in such a historic theater (we also got a discount because we did the tour that day).

Day 14 – Los Angeles – Santa Monica/Venice
• Drove the one hour through traffic to get to Santa Monica at 9:30 am. Rented bikes at the pier (pre-booked at Blazing Saddles) and biked along the beach to Venice Beach. Stopped along the way to check-out at the skate park, art walls, the canals, and Muscle Beach. Youngest daughter is a gymnast and it was fun to see her outclimb the boys on the rope! Parts of Venice Beach didn’t really appeal but it was all part of the experience I guess. Had lunch at Komodo on Main St in Venice Beach for delicious fusion tacos. It was really good! Biked back and got wristbands for the girls to enjoy the rides on the Santa Monica pier (Pacific Park). They had a blast!
• Left by 3 pm to avoid even worse traffic (still took us one hour). Late afternoon spent by the pool. Walked around The Grove and kids played on the playgrounds at the park beside the Holocaust Museum.

Day 15 – Los Angeles
• Pre-booked the Warner Brothers Studio Tour. So great for the kids to visit the soundstages and backlots of a lot of their favourite shows (Fosters, Full House, Gilmore Girls, Harry Potter exhibit). Hubby enjoyed the Batman cars and superhero costumes. Kids and hubby also did the "green-screen" movie.
• Lunch at the Dog Haus nearby for gourmet hot dogs with different toppings. Really yummy!
• Drove the 1 hour to get to our hotel near LAX (Westin LAX) as we had a very early return flight home the next morning.
• Early check-in and drove to Playa del Rey which was only 15 minutes from the hotel. There is no shade at the beach but there were restroom facilities. Google maps showed that we could rent chairs and umbrellas at Perry's but we didn't realize until too late that they were not open during the week. Water was finally warm enough to swim in and we all loved playing in the ocean.
• Had an early dinner at Playa Provisions (we're all fans of Brooke Williamson from Top Chef). In bed by 8:30 pm as we had a 3:30 am wake up call!

It was a great trip! We saw a lot of iconic California sights. We all enjoyed the northern California part of the trip most. The only downside was that it was really expensive – especially for Canadians. I found the restaurant prices particularly to not be good value. We probably spent the same going to California as we did on trips to France (where the value for money for food is much better). But, it was nice to see a different part of the world.

Thanks again to the Fodorites for all the trip planning info. Hope this will help others as well. MERCI!!
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 04:31 PM
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Yup, September/October is our "summer." We moved from LA and pinch ourselves every day. Love Ruddell's and the Brown Butter cookies!
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Old Jul 26th, 2017, 04:41 PM
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Sorry I know this TR is super long and detailed but forgot one other thing we did. Since we were in Monterey on a Tuesday night we went to the Farmer's Market for dinner. Really good food offerings! Had a poke as good as what we ate in Hawaii and all kinds of other goodies. Picked up some nice produce for the cottage too. Went to the Dennis the Menace park after dinner to play. It's got GREAT play structures!! Even the 12 year old really enjoyed it.
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