Baltimore - Charm City
 

If business hadn't taken me to Baltimore for a week the latter part of June, I would have to admit it wasn't on my radar screen as a holiday must do. However, having said that, I will be returning to "Charm City" with my husband so he can enjoy the beautiful waterfront and friendly people in this metropolis setting.

We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and were amazed at the temperatures - hovering 90 plus. Checked into the Lord Baltimore a Radisson hotel located a five-minute walk from the harbourfront. The hotel is old and the hallways a little tired, however, I was pleased with my room which was well equipped and super clean. The staff were extremely friendly and so helpful. The restaurant/bar on the main floor offered excellent prices and food. I must say, this hotel offered the best crabcakes I had all week. Their nightly special was 3 for $23 and you got a choice of crab soup/wedge salad, crab cakes, salmon or steak and your choice of a glass of house white or red. Even their room service - there was nothing over $6 with a $2 fee. I am not sure I ever stayed in a hotel where the prices were that inexpensive. For early risers, they always had coffee, water, fresh fruit and granola bars to grab on your way out the door. I would stay here again. Plus the price was half of what the hotels were charging on the waterfront. If you are a 5* person, this isn't the place for you, but it had everything I needed.

That afternoon we ate lunch on the water at J Paul's Harbourfront Place. Good food, great service. We then took a 45 minute tour of the Harbour so we could get our bearings. Coming from Nova Scotia, we simply were not prepared for the heat - apparently it was 10-15 degrees hotter than normal - extreme humidity.

Monday to Thursday we were busy with meetings, but managed to grab a ball game on Tuesday night. Camden yards is located plunk in the middle of the downtown. It has the feel of an old ball park and we enjoyed the game - minus the extreme heat and humidity - but left feeling closer to a lot of fans from Baltimore!

We ate at a couple of restaurants along the waterfront. The Tapas bar had excellent sangria at about $22/pitcher which was enough for 4-5 of us. They had different nightly specials and good value for great food and service.

We had a party of 22 make a reservation through the conceirge at the Convention Centre at Cinghiale for a debriefing after a long day on the tradeshow floor. The restaurant was lovely, well appointed. We had asked for a private area or at least two tables in close proximity to accommodate us. The noise level in the restaurant was deafening and certainly not a place to go if you want to talk. The manager seemed unable to focus to provide us with the table space. While the food was good, it wasn't great - the kitchen seemed to have a problem with some of our orders. They didn't bring around parmesan cheese or pepper and we had to ask and wait patiently for the girl to bring it and when she did, she only offered it to the one person who asked. Our food orders were slow, but can appreciate the number in our party may have been the reason. When we went to leave, the whole experience became one I will never forget. We were told we were unable to have separate bills. The general manager never heard of customer service and was unwilling to help us solve our problem. I have never, ever met a more ignorant young woman in my life and I hope the owners of the restaurant don't believe she is "model management". I would not recommend this restaurant based solely on our experience with her and that is a shame.

The water taxi service on the harbour is a great way to get around quickly - especially in the heat. However, it really doesn't take long to walk to a lot of the places. Fell's Point is a must and we spent our last day in Baltimore exploring the cobblestone streets. Great shopping! The entire city seemed to have one big sale - everywhere we went there was 50-75% off. Not sure if it was prior to the tourist season and they were clearing out stock, or still the effects of the recession. I must say, everyone I encountered in retail were as pleasant and those I met on the street.

I will definitely be returning to Baltimore! The city should be congratulated for the work they have done to transform an industrial harbourfront to one that can be enjoyed by all ages. The combination of living spaces (many new condo projects) together with historical and non-commercial spaces was well done. I also noticed Baltimore has a lot of artwork strewn about the city - pleasing to the eye to catch so many sculptures. Their use of water through fountains and children's activity centres was also appealing.

Glad you enjoyed it. I really enjoy Baltimore coming there for the past few years.

Many restaurants will not do separate checks for large parties and generally have it specified on the menu. I dont know if this was the case but I can see why they didn't want to do it.

I also applaud Baltimore's revival - Camden Yards is great.

Agree with above poster - for a group of that size unless prior arrangements are made, it is not reasonable to expect to ask for separate checks when paying. I think it would be difficult to hold a business meeting for over 20 people in the public area of any restaurant at dinner unless they could get you a private room. Unfortunately for the Orioles, on many game nights you would have had more quiet and privacy in some sections of Oriole Park than in a restaurant.

Tanya--

Glad you enjoyed Baltimore, where I lived for about 3 years! I too loved the history of Fell's Point. If you didn't make it there, I recommend strolling in Mount Vernon and Federal Hill on a future trip; check out Cross Street Market and the Lexington Market, which brings you to two different side of the city.

As for separate bills, I know this is standard practice to offer them to restaurant customers in Quebec (never is this not on offer here, no matter the size of the party!) and everywhere I've been so far within your home region of Maritime Canada, so I know the manager's behaviour and seeming ignorance (as well as perhaps gail and tchoiniere's reactions) must have seemed inexplicable to you. Some of my Montrealer friends too have been outraged when restaurants refuse to do them when we've visited other North American jurisdications, but ultimately I think it has to do with regional differences in operating procedures that can take a little getting used to. It's not a USA different from Canada thing, for even in Toronto they won't always give separate bills. Differing customs can take some getting used to... it's kind of like how some British people get outraged in North America that the taxes/tips are not included in the stated price of bought restaurant items.

Again, glad you enjoyed your time in Bawlmer! DAN

Daniel:
I didn't know you lived in Baltimore :) Really, the check incident was more about her attitude than us working it out. Unfortunately we all needed a receipt to claim our expenses. It worked out in the end, but man, with an attitude like that, she won't be going far in life.

I walked every morning and really enjoyed Mount Vernon! It is nice to feel very safe in a city! I am definitely going back to visit very soon.

Tanya

I'm pleased (and I must admit, a bit surprised) that you felt safe in Charm City (and I agree that the city has its charms!); I think the city has made considerable efforts in this regard. However do be careful on a future visit, as Baltimore does have a ROUGH side (the show "the Wire" although fictional gives a bit too-real sense of this). Walking maybe 5 blocks east or west of the main drags of St. Paul St./ Charles St. from Mount Vernon, one can end up in some very tough neighborhoods.

Best wishes, Daniel

Daniel, I visited Baltimore last October by myself. I too felt safe. I stayed at the Mount Vernon Hotel and walked to and from the Harbor and Fells Point each day. You are right. Had I walked a few blocks away from St Paul St I think it would not have been good. My taxi driver went through that neighborhood on the way from the airport so I was forwarned. It all comes down to paying attention to your surroundings. The local mall is unsafe if you do not pay attention.