AZ, UT Road/Camping Trip
 

Hi,

We know our basic itinerary but could use some ideas on camping in AZ and a route to Bryce from Phoenix.

We are flying into Phoenix the night of July 3rd. We'd like to camp that night, but we may opt for inexpensive hotel. Looks like we could camp at Lost Dutchman State Park or Dead Horse Ranch up toward Flagstaff. Any thoughts on those, or other options?

On July 4th, we'll be driving toward Bryce. The question: we want to do the most scenic drive. We KNOW this is a far drive, we like to drive. Is there a "scenic" route besides the Rt 17/Rt 89 that we could/should take? If not, any detours we could make from those roads to see "off the beaten path" scenery? We have already been to the Grand Canyon, but only the south side. Worth a detour to the north rim?

To follow that: where to camp that night? I'm thinking somewhere near the AZ/UT border, but am open to all ideas.

July 5th: we'll drive the rest of the way to Bryce. My aunt and uncle will be there with their RV (the reason for this trip), so we'll be camping with them for a few days there.

Next: My aunt wants to go to Capitol Reef. I'm kind of thinking I'd like to see Zion. Thoughts/preferences?

We will do lots of hiking, so trail preferences etc are welcome at any of these parks too!

Thanks for the help!

Karen

I camped at Lost Dutchman for a couple of day in April. This is what my campsite looked like:
http://tinyurl.com/ff9vg
Keep in mind, I was going for a nice picture, so I framed the photo to eliminate the road behind my tent, and the RV across the road. But you get the idea - it's a beautiful area. However, if you're tent camping, it's going to be pretty hot in July. I'd be inclined to find something at a higher elevation near Flagstaff.

Of course, if you get into Phoenix close to dark, you may not want to drive that far to camp. Lost Dutchman is about an hour from the PHX airport. If you're able to do any hiking, there are several trails at the park. My favorite was Siphon Draw, which takes you up to a slick-walled canyon and involves some jumping from rock to rock. You can continue from there all the way to the top of the mountain, but it's really difficult. I was lucky enough to be there when the snakes were just becoming more active after winter, so I didn't run into any on the trails, but I've read other reports from summer hikes that talk about lots of snakes. I'd be concerned about doing the Siphon Draw trail in snake season because there are so many rocks and places for them to be hidden. There are a couple of other less exciting trails that are wider and more open, so snakes wouldn't be such a concern.

As for scenic drives, I think continuing on past Lost Dutchman and taking Hwy 88 to the Roosevelt Dam is a good bet. From there, you'd have to pick your own route headed north, or towards the interstate. The only bad thing is that it takes you a bit out of your way, and there's no quick way to get to the UT/AZ border from there. Of course, if you have all day, that might be OK.

Hi TheWeasel,

Thanks for the pic and the thoughts! The pic is great.

We'll be getting in to Phoenix early evening, which is why I'm debating between camping and just getting a cheap hotel room that night.

Anyone have thoughts on the 2nd night camping or an alternate route from Phoenix to Bryce?

Thanks in advance!
Karen

Unfortunately I can't help with the camping sites or Phoenix-Bryce route, but here's my 2 cents on the parks:

Regarding the North Rim: Yes, it is worth it. Very different ecosystem from the South Rim, far fewer visitors (something like only 10% as many!) and incredible sunset views. There are several places to stop and do short hikes with interesting ecological tidbits and great canyon views. Sitting on a huge log bench on the lodge terrace watching the sunset (in late September) was unforgettable (compared with doing the same thing the night before with 1,000 other people on the South Rim).

Regarding Capitol Reef vs. Zion...unfortunately I have not gotten to Capitol Reef but I have been to Zion twice and it is incredible. The new bus system eliminates traffic jams in the park (buses are constantly running along the main park road; you can get on and off whenever and wherever you want). I have done the Narrows hike once and Angel's Landing twice. Angel's Landing is hands-down the most spectacular hike I have ever done. It is a strenuous uphill climb so try to do it in the morning before it gets too hot. The last section of the hike is very treacherous and not for the faint-hearted! If you are adventurous and have a bit of mountain-climber blood in you, this is an awesome hike. You literally climb up and over rocks while hanging onto a chain. You can also do this hike up to Scout's Lookout and get a great view of Zion Canyon without doing the last scary bit.

I can't help with camping near Phoenix, BUT what ever you do...MAKE RESERVATIONS! This is the 4th of July weekend and it's going to be busy!

You have a few choices to make. Phoenix to Page, AZ is 277 miles and there is camping at Lake Powell. You can make reservations at the RV campground but not at the regular campground and take my word on this...this place will be PACKED and a ZOO..think boaters delight and some will be taking a 4 day weekend.

The north rim is a slow drive, I would recommend just going to Zion National Park from Phoenix. It's just a little under 400 miles and can be done in a day. I would make reservations at the Watchman campground. They have tent sites available. Then you could explore Zion the next morning and it's only a 2 hour drive to Bryce.

The north rim would be an option, but it's a slow drive and will take up a lot of you time just driving there and then on to Bryce.

Utahtea

I have been to Zion and Capitol Reef. The rock strata is very similar, but Capitol reef has the Chinle formation which has the blue/green colors and deep red Moenkopi at the base, hence the name 'Land of the Sleeping Rainbow'. Capitol Reef varies in it's rock formations more than Zion. Each hike seems to display a very different landscape. You will find very little traffic even on the scenic drive. If you go take the Grand Wash drive to the parking lot and hike up to Cassidy Arch. This was a beautiful hike and you can stand on the midspan of the arch looking down the canyon. You will probably have it to yourself. Hickman Bridge, Chimney Rock, and Grand Wash are all winners. Gorgeous sunset at sunset point lighting up the cliffs. At Zion, going thru the tunnel on Hwy. 9 and coming out in the canyon is jaw dropping. This was my first view of Zion canyon as you wind down to the canyon floor. The Narrows were exceptional as were the other hikes. If you want very little foot traffic on the hikes then I would go to Capitol Reef, but spend a couple days at Zion as well if you have the time.

Thanks. I will make reservations somewhere, just trying to decide where!

We'll be tent camping, so maybe I'll make reservations at Zion for that night. Lake Powell sounds nice, but if we can't make reservations, it's probably going to be tough.

I'll be talking to my aunt today, so I can get her viewpoints on Zion vs Capitol Reef too.

Keep the ideas coming! And thanks!

Karen

Hi again,

OK, I like the idea of getting all the way to Zion to camp the second night.

To help this along, I'm thinking that when we land in Phoenix we can drive a few hours north up to Flagstaff to shorten the next day's drive. We are landing around 7:30pm I think.

So, since the purpose of the long drive is to enjoy the scenery, my question is this - is the scenery from the Phoenix to Flagstaff portion really great, such that we would be missing out if we did part of this drive in the dark?

If this part of the drive is "pretty" but not "amazing", I could probably convince BF to do this.

Maybe if I entice him with a cute B&B in Flagstaff....any ideas there?

Thanks!

I always liked this drive. Are you flying back out of Phoenix? If so, you would be seeing this scenery on the way back.

Utahtea

Is there a reason you are flying into Phoenix? What about Las Vegas instead? It's only a fast 3 hour drive from Las Vegas to Zion.

Utahtea

Hi utahtea,

Yes, we are flying into Phoenix because my BF likes road trips and wanted to do the long drive. I would have preferred the Vegas option, but life is all about compromise, right? He's good at keeping me entertained in the car - we drive from DC to NH (about 9 hours) once every couple of months.

We already have the plane tickets (PHX was cheaper than Vegas, too).

That's a good point that we could see the stuff on the way back. Maybe we'll stay in Sedona the first night...

On the way BACK, how should we go from Capitol Reef to PHX? We'll have an entire day to drive, and I'd prefer not to backtrack. Is there a route to go down toward Monument Valley or Lake Powell or something on the way back? The maps I am looking at don't seem to show me a decent route to do this.

Thanks for your ideas!

Karen

For a different route from Capitol Reef back to Phoenix you could take Hwy 24 to Hanksville, then south on Hwy 95 which will take you past Hites Crossing (Lake Powell) but the lake is so low you will only see the Colorado River and not the lake. This will also take you past Natural Bridges National Monument. At least take the scenic drive in the park to the three natural bridges...don't know if you will have time to do any hikes.

After Natural Bridges you have two choices. If you continue on Hwy 95 to Blanding the road is all paved, then you will drive south on Hwy 191 to hwy 163

Your other choice is to take Hwy 261 which has one little section of road that is not paved and it's called the Moki Dugway: http://www.so-utah.com/souteast/powe.../homepage.html This route takes you past Muley Point and the Goosenecks. http://www.so-utah.com/souteast/powerdrv/homepage.html

Both routes take you to Hwy 163 and you will drive by Monument Valley. Then take Hwy 163 to Hwy 160 and this will take you to Hwy 89.

If you take the above with option one to Blanding it's 565 miles and over a 12 hours driving. If you take Hwy 261 then it's 518 miles and about 11 1/2 hours driving. If you were to double back it's 525 miles and about 10 1/2 hours driving.

Keep in mind...these time estimates are JUST driving! Add time for pit stops, eating, site seeing and if this has to be done in ONE DAY, it is going to be one long day any way you go...so get an early start!

Utahtea

Utahtea - Thanks so much! That is perfect. BF will LOVE the 261 route. He lives for those kinds of roads.

I printed out the picture from the link for him.

Sounds like a great scenic route. Just what I was looking for.

Karen

New regarding Lake Powell levels, we had a very good snow year last year and the water level went up over 60 feet. Since we had another very good year this year, they are predicting the lake will be nearly full by end of spring run off this season!

Amazing how fast Monther Nature can catch up!

Thanks for the update, Dayle.

My BF promised we'll look at the routes and decide where to camp along the way so we can make reservations.

I am SO excited about this trip. I went to AZ two years ago and fell in love with Sedona and the Grand Canyon. My aunt and uncle say Bryce is their favorite of all the national parks they've been too (and they've been to a lot of them). I can't wait for some good hiking/camping/touring!

Dayle,

Great news about Lake Powell.

Utahtea

Another vote for Moki Dugway. My husband and I also LOVE roadtrips and we did Michigan to Southern California a year ago, via the Grand Canyon. Moki Dugway was awesome. Though unpaved, it is perfectly doable in a regular car.

I am living in Germany right now so all this talk about Utah and Arizona is making me miss the wide open southwest USA!

Thanks everyone! I will be making reservations for camping at Zion today for the second night. Still not sure where we'll stay the first night, but we'll figure it out.

I showed BF the route utahtea recommended from Capitol Reef back to Phoenix, and he thinks it's perfect!

I'm so excited about this trip, and wish it wasn't 5 weeks away!

Karen

Kaudrey,

If you can't get July 4th weekend res at Zion (and you may very well be too late), try to get an unreserved space. You may get one IF you are at the park no later than 9am. Check out time is 10am I think.

Hi Dayle,

No worries, I made the reservation at Zion yesterday. They still had about 1/2 of their tent campsites available for July 4th. I assume more people are camping over the weekend before, leaving on July 4th to go back to work on the 5th.

We won't get to Zion until evening, as we are spending July 4th driving from [somewhere north of] Phoenix.

Thanks!

Karen