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Amazing "trip report" of sorts of Easter ceremony near Tempe, AZ

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Amazing "trip report" of sorts of Easter ceremony near Tempe, AZ

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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 04:49 AM
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Amazing "trip report" of sorts of Easter ceremony near Tempe, AZ

This was an email from my daughter this morning. Pretty incredible "trip report" I thought I'd paste here. The ceremony sounds fascinating!

A friend of mine at work told me about an Easter celebration that takes place in a town called Guadalupe that is here in Phoenix. Guadalupe is right across the street from a big mall in Tempe. You go
one block south of this mall, and suddenly all the street names are in Spanish, many of the streets are still dirt, beautiful little white stucco Spanish style church, houses with alters to Mary in their front yard, markets with all kinds of crafts from
Mexico, bright colored buildings, murals etc. It is the most bizarre thing, like you have been sucked from the center of suburbia Tempe right into Mexico. Guadalupe is mostly populated by a tribe from Sonora
Mexico called the Yaqui. Their religion is a curious blend of Catholicism which they learned from the Spanish but the Spanish apparently didn’t finish the job. Much of their pagan Mesoamerican religious beliefs from pre-Spanish contact still remain.

Easter is one of their biggest celebrations, like most Christians. They
have a very elaborate ceremony that lasts for six days, each day until the wee hours of the morning. The celebration peaks on Good Friday and my friend said it is something not to be missed…so I decided to
go. Unfortunately, my friend hurt her back and couldn’t go at the last minute, Scott had other plans, as did a couple of my other friends, so I decided to go by myself.

The celebration really starts going at about 9pm so I showed up around then. The ceremony takes place outside in a dirt plaza in front of their little church. The church had two huge doors that opened the
entire front of the church to the outside. The entire floor of the church was covered in tiny votive candles. On both sides of the plaza (which is corded off so onlookers are relegated to watch from either side), are long lines of young men all dressed in
black with black thirties style hats on. Groups of about 5-10 men would break off from the lines and form a horizontal line in front of the church. Before doing so, they take off their shoes, hat, and belt (not sure why the belt), and together they walk a few paces, kneel in prayer, then walk a few paces, and kneel, and so forth until they get to the church entrance. Many
of them lay flowers and some a cluster of some green vine looking plant in front of the candles. They then retreat slowly from the church door again with more kneeling prayer but never turning their backs to the
church. This continues until every guy in line has gone through this – about 1. 5 hours. Most of the men in black were fairly young – teenagers to early to mid twenties. Some tiny little kids too. Scattered amongst the men in black were older men in plaid shirts, grungy pants, and cowboy hats. The faces of each of these men were completely concealed by large bandanas that covered everything but their eyes.

These men went to the church to kneel in prayer as well but separately from the men in black. These bandanna clad men were to be the most mysterious part of the whole ritual. After everyone had performed
their prayers, the marching started. Up and down the plaza, lines began to fold into each other like a marching band sequence each line going in the opposite direction from the line next to it. It gave the appearance of the men in black multiplying.

They finally marched out of the plaza and moved behind the church where they started their transformation. As we were waiting, the little boy next to me said to his
mom as he jumped up and down excitedly, “oh mom I’m getting scared!!” I thought, wow, what is going to come out?? In half an hour, out from behind the church came the most amazing spectacle I’ve ever seen. The
men in black now had long black capes on with red green and white embroidery and ribbons. Under their black hats, their heads were completely wrapped in black silk with only their eyes peaking through. They
carried long white, red and black wooden swords with blood painted on the end of the blades. A couple hundred of them marched out single file from behind the church stomping loudly in the dirt as they walked,
again lines folded in on each other. I learned later, these men were supposed to represent Pontius Pilates hench men. At the end of the line of Pontius’s men came the most fantastic looking creatures – the relics of their pagan beliefs marched out in the most gruesome monstrous looking masks. The men that had been dressed in grungy clothes and faces covered, now
emerged with enormous masks that covered their entire head. The masks, made of wood and animal hides, were mostly of animals, all with sinister grimaces, big fangs, and crazy laughing eyes. Many of them looked
like bats with enormous wooden ears. They were dressed in Mexican wool ponchos. On their ankles were large cuffs of cockle shells that rattled when they walked. They had belts of javelina hooves that also
rattled as they walked. They carried a small wooden sacrificial dagger (replicas of the same daggers we saw in the museum in Mexico City) and a long sword that they banged together as they walked.

Now as this is all happening, an older Yaqui man has decided to educate me on what is going on. Being by myself I was not sure I was comfortable with him but he seemed harmless. I asked him if the animal masks that were passing by were bats. He looked at me shocked. “Those aren’t bats! This is a Christian celebration!!” By now it was about 11:30 pm. With these creatures moving through the darkness, the whole spectacle was like a weird dream. To make it even stranger, they had set up a carnival right next to the church to entertain the kids between waiting periods for the various stages of the ceremony. So literally 20 feet behind this spectacle are the bright flashing lights of ferris wheels and roller coasters, the whooshing sound of the roller coaster and delighted screaming of children.

Here’s where the story gets even weirder… As the last monster is filing out of the plaza to begin their running paces (according to old Yaqui guy) I begin to
hear this loud popping noise. Sounded at first like fireworks. And then there was screaming. Part of my brain (the smart part which rarely is listened to) said “kim, that is not the screaming of the kids in the park, and that popping could be gunfire.” Other part of my brain said “why do you think that? You don’t see anyone shooting do you.” Screaming is now ramping up and old Yaqui guy grabs my hand and yells
“Get down!! It’s the gangs!” He pulls me down in the dirt and we crawl into one of the many temporary wooden food booths that were set up behind us. There were about 10 people crammed behind the wall of this
food both. At this point my memory is like flashes. Two girls face down in the dirt crying. Someone yelling at the girls “its ok, stop crying its over” as more gunfire erupts. Old Yaqui guy whispering hysterically to me “stay down! Stay down!” Now there is no doubt that the popping is gunfire. Volleys of gun fire go back and forth back and forth. It is across the plaza from us but I can’t tell where.
People are running everywhere. A young boy in black with gold chains in the booth with us leaps up and tries to run out yelling/crying “my brother!!!” Someone grabs him by the shirt and throws him back to the ground. At that moment, old Yaqui guy and I have the exact same thought, “Not good to be in the same place as anyone related to this shooting”. He grabs
me by the arm and hisses, “not safe to be here.” We run out of the booth toward the church (further away from the sound of the guns) and hide behind a truck. By now the shooting has stopped. Only about 5-10
minutes has elapsed and three cop cars are here already slowly pacing up and down the streets. Then a fire truck and two ambulances. I just stood there like a stone for quite a while, not knowing what to
do. Yaqui guy wouldn’t shut up. “this has never happened before, this has never happened before, how could they do this here, in this sacred place, this has never happened before….” A loud voice on an
intercom from the church started calling out the names of all the children that had been separated from their parents and wandered to the church for safety. “Would
the parents of…please come and get your son/daughter” over and over. I just wanted to get to my car and get far far away from this place but I was worried that when the gangs dispersed, they may have gone down the
street where my car was to escape the cops. So I waited. After the cops had been there for a little while I finally decided I had to get to my car. Old Yaqui guy offers to walk me to my car. At this point, although I think he has good intentions, I am
disinclined to trust anyone. I can’t convince him not to go with me so I put one of my keys in between each of my fingers and form a fist – something I saw on a
news show in Plano ages ago about self defense. I caught up with a large family also in a hurry to leave and I politely thanked him and said I would walk out
with them so didn’t need an escort. He conceded and hurried to where the ambulances were to check out the scene.

I breathed an enormous sigh of relief as I pulled out of Guadalupe toward suburbia, the mall, gas stations, NORMALCY!! Every booming car that pulled up next to me made every muscle in my body tense. What an unbelievable night..and so disappointing that I could not enjoy it for what it was. Later in the night men dressed as deer would come out to dance with wooden flutes, the monsters would take off their masks and burn them, burning all of the evil spirits out of the air. It was certainly needed that night.
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 08:26 AM
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I found no mention of this in the online Pheonix newspaper.

Keith
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 08:42 AM
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"I found no mention of this in the online Pheonix newspaper."

The shooting or the ceremony?
 
Old Apr 17th, 2006, 09:01 AM
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The ceremony itself sounds fascinating, and something I would love to see myself...if it were safe! Normally is it, does anyone know? Is this a bad area? Was she foolish to venture there alone? 20/20 hindsight, perhaps yes, but perhaps this was a fluke, too.

I forwarded her email to my DH at work, who wrote back wondering (1) why on earth she would go to this thing by herself and (2) why her husband would let her! I guess I have to agree with that, but she was always the child to listen to the different drummer and she never outgrew that...for the most part, an admirable trait...and unlike her Mom, she is fearless to a fault.
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 09:17 AM
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I am with Keith, there is no mention of this online in Phoenix newspapers or TV stations. I talked to my parents who live in Chandler (not far from Guadalupe) and they didn't hear anything either.

The ceremony is real and fascinating. Do a search for Yaqui Easter ceremony and you can learn more about it. They do the ceremony in several different places-I believe another one is in Tucson. It should be very safe to go to this event and certainly not a problem to go by yourself. If you get more info on the shooting, let us know.
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 09:36 AM
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Whoa--are you doubting the gang violence/shooting happened? I am absolutely positive it did. It was my daughter writing this email and there is no way on earth she would have made up. That is not who or what she is, nor who or what I am, for that matter (ie, I would not make it up either). She too lives in Chandler.

That was the entirety of her email, no mention if anyone was wounded so I am assuming not.
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 10:30 AM
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I seriously doubt that every drive-by shooting gets mentioned online or in the paper. If there were no injuries, it wouldn't get any coverage. If someone really doubts the account, they can always check the police log to see if they have a record of being called out. I wouldn't depend on the media to tell me everything that happens.

As for the ceremony, it sounds interesting, but I think I'd feel a bit strange and intrusive standing there watching. Any other time would be fine to visit, but a religious ceremony seems a bit more sacred and I don't think I'd go. It doesn't sound like it's generally dangerous though, so I don't think your daughter was ill-advised to attend by herself.
 
Old Apr 17th, 2006, 11:58 AM
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I checked the paper because I am about to go to Tempe and this scared me.

If an event like this is so common that it doesn't even make the paper, I wish I wasn't going there.

Keith
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 12:29 PM
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Keith, please...Tempe, ASU--this is not a common everyday occurrence in that area. It is not an area beset by roving gangs!

You know, I posted this because I felt the ceremony was absolutely fascinating, and something others might be interested in as well. It's a form of a passion play performed for the community in a culture most of us have no knowledge or understanding of! What ultimately happened was unfortunate, but that is not life in Tempe, where they have lived, safely, for...I've lost track of how long...at least 10 years as her husband has been in grad school there, getting first his masters, and just now completing his PhD (anthropology/archeology, by the way, and they have a month long archaeological trip to Guanojato planned for this summer, which partially explains her fascination with cultural differences and desire to observe the same.)

It's the sort of thing I felt might be interesting on a travel board, and posted it for that reason...not as a warning to keep away, or to be fearful of Tempe, nor did I ever dream I'd have to defend her fascinating note to us regarding the Good Friday services. Obviously, I now seriously regret that decision!
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 01:34 PM
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Malesherbes - I'm glad you did post this report. I'd never even heard of Guadalupe, even though I've been to PHX several times (including just a couple weeks ago). I was within a couple miles of it numerous time. It's always interesting to learn about new places. I may have to check it out next time I'm there.

As for the crime, well, if you're checking the PHX metro newspapers, why would they publicize this, unless someone was killed or seriously injured? Just like any big city, there's crime every day, and most of it doesn't make the paper. I live in Minneapolis, and I'm pretty certain there is stuff going on in my neighborhood and elsewhere that doesn't ever hit the big paper. That doesn't mean it's unsafe though, or that it didn't happen. And, like I said before, if anyone doubts that this shooting occurred, check the police blotter.
 
Old Apr 17th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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Malesherbes is a poster of highest integrity! Do not doubt her one bit.

I am totally fascinated by your daughter's account, (as a mom that had to be scary reading!) and in my googling to see about the shooting ("guadalupe arizona gangs"), I came across a fascinating Tempe Historical Museum interview with an old Yaqui resident of the area (he reminded me of your daughter's strange protector). Anyway, here is a quote from the introduction:

"In this interview, he talks about his childhood family life and the disciplined upbringing he received as a child, churches and schools in Tempe, and his father's experiences as a musician. Chavarria described several different barrios in the Tempe area, including Guadalupe. He talks about his father's Yaqui ancestry, and Hispanic attitudes regarding their Indian heritage. Some of the most interesting narrative includes discussions of Pachuco gangs, zoot-suit styles, and racial discrimination in Tempe in the 1940s."

Read the whole thing, or do a Control F search for "gang" or "guadalupe" to get to the stuff that seems to relate to this incident... I am glad she made it home all right, yet I now understand why she went!

http://www.tempe.gov/museum/oh136.htm
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 01:57 PM
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Thanks Weasel...

In my email response to her this morning I asked about injuries, and also about the neighborhood. I told her too I was glad that she had written it, but that she needed to save the account somewhere where it wouldn't get lost...ie, not a computer hard drive, prone to crashing. This initial reaction to the event is something you don't ever want to lose. This is the reply I just got back:

My friend at work said that apparently they shut down the rest of the night's ceremony - so I didn't miss anything. I thought about calling you all with the story but I also really wanted to write it down. It was so unreal it still seems like a dream and the only proof I have now that it happened is just the story I wrote down. Still no news coverage on it either strangely - maybe it was just a dream!!!

In answer to your question, was this a bad area - I have never had that impression. Certainly at this ceremony I actually felt very safe. It was almost all big families, lots of kids, very religious people, complete prohibition on selling and consuming alcohol anywhere near the church. It was all very subdued. I noticed some gangster looking teenagers with typical pants around the knees, not Hispanic, brimming with attitude and trying very hard to look the gangster part, but honestly - that's everywhere you go!


I'm glad for her never-ending curiosity, but sometimes wonder what life this kitty is on now....

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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 02:12 PM
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TheWeasel, one more thing along the lines of what you wrote...unfortunately, San Antonio, where my DH and I currently live, seems to take enormous pleasure in hunting down and reporting every single event that smacks of any sort of sensationalism, much to our dismay. The average visitor to this area must think there is nothing but knifings, shootings, and terrible car accidents in the neighborhoods away from the Riverwalk. This is the first place we've ever lived where we cannot find a local news channel worth watching! They'd have eaten this story up, but again, as I said, this is the first place we've lived that has been like this. Most stories similar to this fall by the wayside of the greater scheme of things, unless there has been serious injury.
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 04:49 PM
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Amazing indeed!
Thank God she was not hurt and hopefully no one else was. I am glad the old Yaqui was there..and what a shame, a ceremony like that and then an ending like that..
It sounded like a description of the festivals in Mexico, that actually DO end with firecrakers..
I am so glad she is ok!!
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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 05:09 PM
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Fascinating indeed! I know a few people who would be very interested in reading about this ceremony.

Your daughter certainly had an incredible experience! I'm so glad she's safe. Hopefully everyone else is too.

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Old Apr 17th, 2006, 05:19 PM
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I wasn't doubting your daughter, it just seemed strange to me that since the shooting was at this ceremony that it wasn't mentioned in the news. I now live in So. Calif and they certainly can't cover all the gang related shootings that happen. However, with the nature of the event and all the families and other visitors attending, I am surprised that the news teams didn't jump on the story. Glad to hear that no one was hurt.
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