Alaska: Big State, Little Trip Report
 

This is my first trip report so forgive me for I know not what I do, add a little jet lag and this makes for a potentially hazardous combination!

Our trip to Alaska was as a relatively short-notice, unexpected event. My husband is in the Air Force and went to Anchorage, TDY, for one week with me happily in tow. We had the opportunity to extend the trip by another week so with thanks to the people who post information on this board, along with the help of our good friends in Anchorage and some terrific guide books I was able to put together an itinerary in a relatively short period of time.

Alaska is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been—there were times I could not believe my eyes and I don’t have the words to describe the breath taking beauty—it is something to experience The drive to Seward was so incredible I think we stopped at every scenic look-out there is. It took us well over five hours to get there because of all the picture taking but we’re so glad we took the time as the weather could not have been better—unlike the drive home. The drive home went much faster because of a pouring rain. With the exception of that one rainy day we enjoyed beautiful weather—a few sprinkles here and there but overall, gorgeous. I was impressed, too, with how friendly and helpful the people there are.

Air: June 8th from San Antonio we flew United through Denver. June 21st, return connection through Chicago where our luggage remained overnight. Round trip total was $456.81 per person.

Lodging: We spent our first week in Anchorage at Elmendorf AFB. It was our intention to move to a hotel once work was through for my husband but we liked the location so much that when we returned to Anchorage from Seward there was space available so we moved back on base. It’s very quiet, there’s a clear view of the mountains and there are terrific trails and lakes to explore where we encountered waddling porcupines, hungry moose, fox, soaring bald eagles as well as mosquitos nearly the size of my cat. I underestimated the size and aggressive behavior of the Alaskan mosquito.

In Seward, we spent two nights at The Edgewater Hotel. We were in room 105 which had a tiny balcony that overlooked Resurrection Bay. Nice, clean hotel with fabulous views of the bay—would stay there again.

Rental Car: Through Enterprise at the airport I booked a compact vehicle for 13 days at a rate of $620.00 total. When we got to the airport we had an option to upgrade to a Ford Explorer for $7 more a day which we did. It had 4 miles on it—love that new car smell!

Travel Books/Guides: Most helpful were Mile Post, Lonely Planet and Fodors. There is a slew of information to be found once you land in Anchorage. We picked up many a guide, pamphlet, and flyer when we were out and about.

Gear: We’re day hikers and what came in most handy were gortex hiking boots, moisture wicking hiking pants and socks, and mosquito repellent (Deep Woods Off worked great). We hiked in snow, through water and mud and my shoes, socks and pants kept me dry and warm. A black, fleece headband I brought with me for a glacier cruise doubled as an eye mask at “night”. Layers definitely worked best—at Hatcher’s Pass we started off cold but by the time we reached the lake I was down to a tank top.

Hikes: Our first hike was to the lake at Independence Mine at Hatcher’s Pass. Still covered in snow, there was no trail to follow but our friends who had hiked to the lake before kept us in line. The snow was melting so a couple of us fell through in a few places, mostly at locations close to exposed rock. The deepest I fell through was to my upper thigh. The lake was beginning to thaw and you could see the mint blue water below. Our friends told us in summer you can see all the way to the bottom which I believe they said is 60 feet.

Second hike was Winner trail at the Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. Fantastic hike to the cage tram on a rope which I was too scared to get in so we had to turn around although the brave folks we met from Germany and Israel were perfectly happy to dangle in that cage and take pictures of the raging waters below. It reminded me of a scene from Romancing the Stone.

Third hike was to the very top of Flattop. I have a fear of heights and was unsure of this ascent but my friend Bill cheered me on and as long as I didn’t look down I was fine. The views from the top were spectacular. I found it amusing that someone thought to attach an American flag to one of the rocks because it did look as though we had landed on the moon. I’m all suspicious now about the Apollo missions ;-)

Glacier Tour: We took the Phillips 26 glacier cruise out of Whittier which we really enjoyed--dress warm! Our friends warned us about the cold so we were prepared. We saw many a sea otter, some with babies on their bellies as they floated by. We were fortunate to see glacier calving which was incredibly exciting—we heard rumbling first which we mistook for thunder. Whittier is a funky little village and the drive through the tunnel freaked me out a little bit—I was glad once I literally saw light at the end of the tunnel. There’s a fancy, relatively new hotel in town that really stands out--I think it’s called the Inn at Whittier. Folks I spoke to who were staying there were not happy with the room size, amenities or service. We ate lunch there and the food was great.

In Anchorage: The Museum of Art and History is excellent. I also enjoyed a visit to the Alaska Native Heritage Center but it is pricey--$20.00 per person. Discounts are available for military, senior citizens, etc. and they sell a discounted combination ticket for the Heritage Center and art museum—I believe it was $24 for both. Admission to the art / history museum is $6.50. One Saturday afternoon we went to the open market which we enjoyed. Also checked out all the people fishing along the banks of Ship Creek.

In Seward: Visited the Seward Museum which is small but full of fascinating information. The Alaska SeaLife Center is also worth a visit. Unfortunately, the one day it rained was the day we planned to hike Exit Glacier so we cancelled that excursion (next time!).

Food: In Anchorage, we mostly ate with our friends and the folks my husband was working with but on the few occasions we ate out we went to Moose’s Tooth Pizza which was excellent--I was bummed to learn that the Cowboy Junkies would be playing there after we were gone!; The Glacier Brewhouse, also excellent—could not get enough of their IPA!; and Orso’s which was very good.

In Girdwood, we ate at Jack Sprat which I loved so much I could move in. We stopped there again on our way home from Seward.

In Seward, we liked Ray’s Waterfront so much we ate there both nights. The calamari was the best I’ve had outside Bermuda. Had lunch one day at a funky little place called Apollo—the fish and chips were excellent.

Within the next few days I hope to post a link containing photos. I don’t have pictures from the Flattop hike on digital but once I get them converted I will include them.

I cannot wait to go back to Alaska—once is not enough for me but until that time it’s back to 97 degree heat, a pile of laundry, a lawn that is as long as my hair, a losing basketball team and one very happy kitty.

AnnMarie :-)

AnnMarie,

Thanks for the great trip report. My husband and I are going to Anchorage, Seward and a side trips in between the first week in August. Thanks for the tip about the bugs and layering. I've read the guide books, but first-hand, recent experience is the best!

Question - Was the trip down Flattop doable for someone w/a fear of heights? I want to do some hiking, but like yourself I'm not too good w/heights...

Hi eriberri--great question as I asked the very same question about 100 times on the way up "what about the down?" It was doable for me--the focus is on the rocks around you, where to step and place your hands which completely kept my eyes off the ground below--same as going up. You'll be surrounded by rock which helps keep you focused on what you're doing, not what's going on around you. My friend told me it was REI who painted orange circles on the rocks as route markers indiciating the recommended route up / down--follow them (a few are wearing and didn't stand out)and you'll have an easier ascent. The views from the top were worth fighting through the fear. I hope this helps and you enjoy an amazing trip!

Great trip report decespedes. We were in Alaska some years ago and hope to go back this year and do the Inside Passage.

Hi cd, that's where I would like to go next, too. Our friends who have lived in Anchorage 6 years now recently did an inside passage cruise unsure what to expect since they normally drive everywhere and are heavy into hiking, skiing, etc.--they loved it so much they want to go again.

I am ashamed to say that I have cousins in Alaska and never accepted any invitations to visit.
I didn't think there would be anything to do :)
Thanks for the report, I enjoyed it very much!
I see what you mean about the Apollo missions LOL
Welcome back, you were missed~
Scarlett-who will climb up but not down :D

Here is what I hope to be a link to a few pictures taken with my husband's digital camera...I'm still living in the land of the 35mm. Enjoy!

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/184477/index.html

I think we all need to go visit Scarlett's cousins! :D Terrific trip report dcespedes, and awesome pictures. What incredibly beauty...I can see why it took you so long to make that drive. No wonder you kept stopping. Now...I want to know if you bought that little string bikini for tubing on the Guadalupe and is that where we should have our next GTG? LOL

I don't blame you one bit about that little cage tram. Nope, nuh-uh, not going to do it! The picture of you in the snow in just your tank top makes me cold just looking at it. It's so hard when it's hot here, to be able to pack correctly for what you would face there.

As for climbing up but not down...it's a wonder I'm still not at the top of the sun temple in Tulum...crying. LOL I can relate to everyones problem with heights!

A hint to anyone unfamiliar with worldisround website, if you click on the link under the picture that says "view full size image" you'll get a larger picture with all the details showing. The shot of the Bald Eagle taking off is magnificent!

Thanks for posting the report AnnMarie...now I truly do want to go! I'll look forward to seeing more pics when you get yours developed. That website is a great way to share with everyone! :)

Great trip report! Thanks.

Thank you for the entertaining and informative report! We're planning on taking the kids up there...someday...

Can't access the link!! Would love to see your pics... what am I doing wrong?

Sorry about that Michelle--for printing purposes I moved the photos over to Ofoto. Try the link below--it should work. Once you reach the little fur outfit (can't miss it) the pictures are a bit out of order.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLan...share&Ux=0

Great trip report dcespedes! Jocelyn, we took the kids on a Holland cruise and then rented a car and went to denali and fairbanks. It was all so worth it. The kids loved the teen program on the cruise and we were amazed at the wildlife we saw on the 11 hour roundtrip parks bus in Denali (as well as on the cruise). Our driver was fantastic and showed us a falcon's nest and we saw a timberwolf eating a caribou and dall sheep and lots of grizzlys and moose and herds of caribou and beaver and loons and ... We went in mid june and I must say I was so prepared for mosquitos - we had mosquito netting jackets as well as buzz-off shirts from llbean - that I was a bit miffed that the mosquitos were no bigger than those we have in Minnesota! Wonderlake was beautiful! In Fairbanks we stayed at the All Seasons Bed and Breakfast and had a wonderful suite of rooms with twin beds for the girls and a queen for us with a very clean bathroom and all was fresh and new and so nice after roughing it a bit at the Perch hotel near Denali. The All Seasons had a wonderful full breakfast and beautiful flowers and a porch and deck and even allowed us to check our email - which was nice after being so out of touch for so long. The Perch at Denali was nice and cozy with beautiful views but my girls didn't like climbing into the loft bed and though the quilts were handmade and beautiful it was a bit rustic and cramped. In Anchorage we stayed at the Microtel and it was just what we needed - a HUGE clean room with a TV for our last night. The scenery, both on the cruise and later on the drive and train between Seward and Anchorage was just breathtaking as dcespedes says. There is a waterfall at McHugh Creek on the Seward highway that is so gorgeous. (About mile 120 or so)You can climb way up behind it and there are picnic tables - but because of a grizzley sighting that morning we chose not to eat there. My girls got a little tired of my ooing and aahing but you just somehow want to memorize the beauty because pictures - no matter how good your camera - will just never do it justice. And sometimes I get so caught up in getting just the right shots that I forget to embrace and enjoy the moment. We spent two weeks in Alaska and I just can't wait for another anniversary to justify our next trip. When we got home and it started getting dark around 9:15pm I thought it was going to storm because I just couldn't believe it could get that dark that early in the evening!
Clothes: The most protection we wore was a packable raincoat over a fleece pullover. Nylon convertable pants dried quickly when it rained or we walked in water and we wore them every day. WE wore formal clothes during the evenings on the cruise but that did make it harder to dash outside when whales were sighted or when it rained when we got close to the glaciers and we wanted to sit on deck. It was hard to decide whether to eat the wonderful meals in the formal dining hall or just be casual the whole time and stay outside. It was also hard to decide whether to stay up all night dancing etc or get some sleep so we could see the sights at 6:00AM.So much to do! We came home totally exhausted but we would all go again in a heartbeat. Its an amazing place.

wonderful pictures! can't wait to go in Sept.

One of your pics "Hand pull tram with raging waters"

where is that at?

Hi tantuti--the hand pull tram is along the Winner Creek Trail in Girdwood. Our hike began at the Alyeska Resort and would have continued for miles more had I not been so afraid of crossing that river!

Below is a link. Enjoy a wonderful trip!!
http://www.trails.com/tcatalog_trail...lid=HGA048-050

Try this link instead--it shows a map of the area with the trail near the top of the page.

http://www.muni.org/iceimages/phypla...tm_map9.pdf%20

Tantuti (or anyone else hesitant about the tram)

Just a comment about the pull tram on the Winner Creek Trail. I'm petrified of swinging bridges, and was sure I wouldn't be able to do the tram. We watched some other folks go over and back while we held onto their large dog (that was scary enough because the dog tried to leap down the cliff to follow them, and we really had to hold her) They assured us it wan't too bad, so I bravely (?) got in the car. There happened to be people on both sides of the river, who pulled us over so fast that I was almost disappointed that I didn't have a chance to look around. I would do it again (remember, I'm a whimp about things that this) especially if someone else can do the pulling.