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Ahead of Irene - yk's fun-filled overnight trip to Upper Cape Cod

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Ahead of Irene - yk's fun-filled overnight trip to Upper Cape Cod

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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 01:51 PM
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yk
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Ahead of Irene - yk's fun-filled overnight trip to Upper Cape Cod

Who yk & Mr.yk (in our late 30s)

When mid-week late August, 2 days before Tropical Storm Irene hit

Why Earlier this year, I saw a deal on one of those group-buying websites for a 1-night stay at a B&B + $50 credit at the B&B's bistro: all for $139. The B&B is located in W Falmouth. Knowing DH is nostalgic about that area (particularly Woods Hole), the deal gives us an excuse to take a short trip there. Plus, DH's last vacation was 9 months ago and he deserves a break, albeit very short. The only "catch" to the deal is that it's only valid mid-week during high season, which is fine w/us as we have no desire to get stuck in traffic to the Cape on a weekend.

Coincidentally, this B&B was the exact same one that Fodorite Kwoo stayed at last year. Here's her helpful trip report: http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...o-falmouth.cfm

Where we visited Falmouth, Woods Hole, Hyannis, Sandwich

Day 1
We left around 9:30am from our home just W of Boston. Traffic was not bad, a few slow downs due to minor accidents. We took Bourne Bridge and arrived in Falmouth just after 11am. Thanks to several Fodorites' help, we had no trouble finding parking (free) in Falmouth. There are parking spots along Main Street as well as in the parking lots behind the shops on Main Street.

We caught the WHOOSH Trolley on Main Street heading to Woods Hole ($2pp each way; discounts for seniors). http://www.capecodtransit.org/whoosh-route.htm The trolley runs 2x/hour and takes about 15 minutes to get to Woods Hole.

Once we arrived at Woods Hole, I was really glad I didn't try driving into Woods Hole. The "village" is tiny, streets are narrow, and parking is scarce (110 metered spots, 2-hr limit). The Whoosh Trolley is much less stressful plus we're not bound by any time limit.

It was around 11:30am when we got there, and we headed straight for lunch at Quicks Hole. http://www.quicksholewickedfresh.com/Home.html This was recommended by Fodorite bcolt. The restaurant is right across from Landfall Restaurant. It's quite casual - order/pick-up at counter. We sat at the outdoor patio where we can see the ferry terminal at the end of the street.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6435.jpg

DH had the blackened fish sandwich (v good), and I had their Wicked Baja salad + added lobster. We also shared a bowl of quahog chowder. Everything was delicious but not cheap (~ $50 for lunch). Here's my fantastic Baja salad (w/greens, mangoes, hearts of palm, tomatoes, avocado, and a big heap of lobster)
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6436.jpg

After lunch, we walked towards the Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL) & visited the Woods Hole Science Aquarium. It is the oldest aquarium in the US. It's quite small but free (owned by NOAA). http://aquarium.nefsc.noaa.gov/

From the aquarium, we continued walking towards the "hook" but had to turn back when we reached the guard house on Penzance Point. DH's grandfather once had a house out there; hence DH spent many summers of his childhood in Woods Hole.

We walked to the other side of town to the Coast Guard station (nothing to see really), before returning to the village. A car ferry from MV had just docked so we wasted a good half hour watching the cars and people unload. After 3 hours in Woods Hole, we caught the Whoosh back to Falmouth.

First on our agenda in Falmouth was ice-cream! We went to Ben & Bill's Chocolate Emporium http://www.benandbills.com/cc/index2.html as it was recommended in this thread: http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...almouth-ma.cfm The interior is cool as it is quite old-fashioned . We split a medium cup which turns out to be gigantic; a small would have sufficed. We chose 2 flavors: Rocky Road, and "KGB" (Kahlua, Grand Marnier, & Bailey's)

The Main Street of Falmouth is lined with small boutiques, gift shops, and restaurants. We were there on a Thursday, which also happens to be their farmers market day http://www.falmouthfarmersmarket.org/ held in the park next to the town's library.

I believe all the produce stalls are from organic farms. Tons and tons of tomatoes at this time of year of all varieties. What's new to us are husk tomatoes, aka Cape Gooseberries. They are the size & color of a sungold cherry tomato, but has a husk on the outside. They taste very different from cherry tomato though. Other stalls include bakeries and cheese. Unfortunately we really couldn't buy produce as there's no good way to store them; but we did have to get an apple cider donut. They are made fresh right at the farmers market (cooker in their van) so our donut is still warm to touch.

To be continued...
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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 01:59 PM
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I always love reading your trip reports, yk!
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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Rest of Day 1

After we retrieved our car in Falmouth, we did a coastal scenic drive to Nobska Point Lighthouse. http://www.lighthouse.cc/nobska/ The light house is open for tour several times a year but not the day we were there.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6439.jpg

If you cross the road (be careful; sharp turns w/o poor visibility), there's a short path that leads to the cliff's edge called Neilie Point, where you can catch the great expanse of the ocean. There is a stone bench, and a small memorial to Neilie Anne Heffernan Casey who died on Sept 11. You can read more about Neilie Point here:
http://www.bostonherald.com/blogs/ne...-neilie-point/

Our final stop of the day was The Knob at Quissett Harbor. http://www.qhpt.org/quissett_maps.htm It's a nice easy hike and we're rewarded with views of the much calmer Buzzard's Bay. Plus, we really needed the exercise after over-indulging on ice-cream and apple cider donuts!

A short drive later we arrived at our B&B: Beach Rose Inn in West Falmouth. http://www.thebeachroseinn.com/index.php

We were assigned the Nauset Room in the Carriage House. I assume the rooms in the Main Inn are nicer (?) but I'm not sure. I wasn't given a choice when I called for reservation using my coupon/deal. Anyway, our room is nice enough and we have no real complaints. It's a bit small but not a big deal for one night. If we were staying for a longer duration, I would prefer a bigger room. We were the only guests in the Carriage House so it was very quiet. The other guests (2 couples) stayed in the Main Inn.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6440.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6441.jpg

Our room has a Queen bed; bathroom is shower only. Wifi works well. There's ceiling fan plus a window a/c unit. The a/c is noisy so we kept it off at night. It wasn't hot but it was very humid that day.

Normally, I would not choose to eat at the B&B. But, if you "know" me well on these forums, you'll know that we're budget travelers and it's hard to say no to the $50 dining credit at the bistro. It turns out we were the only diners that night. The couple who owns the B&B: the husband is the cook while the wife is the waitstaff. The food was so-so.

2 nice features about the B&B's location that we did NOT take advantage of:
1) it's steps away from the new extension of Shining Sea Bikeway where one can bike 8 miles to Woods Hole
2) It's a 1-mile walk to Chapoquoit Beach
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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 02:53 PM
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This is a good description of an area we haven't yet discovered as new residents in the Boston area. Thanks...we'll keep this for the future. Like us in Maine you worked your trip in before Irene whipped up the sea shores.
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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 03:02 PM
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Looking forward to hearing more of your story!
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Old Aug 29th, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Day 2

A line of thunderstorms rolled thru the area overnight, but Friday morning we woke up to clear blue skies and calm winds. Breakfast is included in room rate.

The Beach Rose Inn has a gorgeous outdoor space: a garden studded w/sculptures by the husband, and a dining patio which we where we had breakfast this morning.

Breakfast is a buffet spread consists of cheese omelet, blueberry pancakes, breakfast sausages, toasts, jams, greek yogurt, muesli, fruit, coffee/tea, juice. Everything was tasty and it was hard not to have second servings of blueberry pancakes.

We checked out and drove over to Hyannis via Rt 151. When I booked this trip, I wasn't planning to go to Hyannis; I thought we'd just stick w/Upper Cape. 3 days before our trip, I saw a deal on another group-buying website for a Hyannis Harbor cruise. For half price ($19), I can get 2 adult tickets for a 75-min cruise. This seems a good deal & I know DH loves cruises (he loves the ocean). What makes this deal even better is that I have $20 credit in my acct so the cruise is free!

The cruise departs from Ocean Street. Plenty of metered parking there ($2/hr, ouch). The tour is run by Bay Spirit Tours, a small family-owned company. http://bayspirittours.com/index.html The Captain used to be a commercial fisherman; he bought a 63' catamaran from the Miami Aquarium in 2009 and started this boat tour business. His son is the guide on the tour. His wife (I believe) stays on land to sell tickets.

We had a great time on the boat cruise. There were only 12 of us on the 11am Lighthouse tour, so it felt quite cozy and personal. Although the boat is not big, it's pretty steady out in the waters given it's a catamaran. We saw several lighthouses and the son gave good history & overview of them. Here's a look-back at Hyannis :
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6449.jpg

Our tour also included Hyannisport so we could all gawk at the Kennedy Compound and their neighbor (belongs to the CEO of Gap/Old Navy). Here's a view of Hyannisport with Ted Kennedy's Mya sailboat in the foreground:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6456.jpg [You can see some of the windows of the Kennedy Compound have been boarded up already in advance of Hurricane Irene]

The Hy-Line Cruise company runs a similar but shorter cruise on a bigger boat
http://hylinecruises.com/hhc/schedule.html

We decided not to stick around in Hyannis but to make our way to Sandwich. We got back into our car and stopped at Cooke's Seafood for lunch before getting on Rt 6. http://www.cookesseafood.com/

During the week, Cooke's has lunch specials for a very good price. I ended up getting their fried clam strip lunch special for $7.35, which includes fries, onion rings, and cole slaw:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6458.jpg

DH had their lobster roll. At only $11.95, it was pretty small (not surprising).

To be continued...
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 02:20 AM
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My only complaint is that you got clam strips instead of bellies! Otherwise, great detailed report.
I don't dare look at the photo of your Baja salad. It sounds too delicious.
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 09:41 AM
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"I saw a deal on one of those group buying websites" So what is this exactly...and I guess you thought it OK and a good buy for one night in the area? I like the midweek anyway.
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Deb, irishface, thanks for reading.

dfrostnh, unfortunately, clam bellies were not offered at Cooke's. Cooke's is more like a family-friendly restaurant than a road-side clam shack. And I'm sure clam bellies would have cost 3x as much as the clam strips!

Bill, the group-buying website is similar to Groupon. As for the B&B deal, when I saw it, I checked tripadvisor for reviews and they were favorable, plus Kwoo stayed there last year and thought it was good. The lowest published rate on the B&B's website is $179/night. Since the deal is $139 (inclu $50 dining credit), I thought it was a decent deal.
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 10:27 AM
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Great pics, as always, leave me wanting a taste of the food and I can almost smell the salt air!

As far a fried clams, I may be the only person who hates belly clams - ick! I like regular old puny ones!
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Rest of Day 2
Back on Rt 6, we drove to Sandwich, the oldest town on Cape Cod. Our destination was the Heritage Museums & Gardens. http://www.heritagemuseumsandgardens.org/ I didn't know about this place's existence until the night before our trip when I cracked open my Fodors guidebook and saw the entry. We got in for free as we have the N Am Reciprocal Museums membership (reg admission $15pp).

It completely exceeded my expectations! We both loved it. The gardens & grounds are gorgeous, even though we missed its famous rhododendron bloom (or the daylillies). But the hydrangeas are in bloom and they have dozens and dozens of different varieties. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6462.jpg

At one point, the land was owned by a guy named Dexter. He was interested in hybridizing rhododendron. As a result, there are now hundreds of different kinds of rhododendron.

Later, the Eli Lilly family bought the land. They built several buildings to house their eclectic collection, and later opened it to the public. One building houses antique car collection. Another currently has an "America's Kitchens" exhibit hosted by Historic New England. The third building is the art museum which has folk paintings, scrimshaw collection, and Americana folk art. Inside that building is also a Coney Island-style carousel which one can ride for free. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6464.jpg

We really enjoyed our time (3 hrs) there. The grounds is dotted with paved & unpaved trails. They also offer free rides on electric golf carts for those with walking difficulties.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6459.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6466.jpg

We left just before 5pm and took the Sagamore Bridge back. We were surprised there wasn't more traffic on the roads, esp with Hurricane Irene arriving within 36 hours.

Our route home happens to take us right by the one and only IKEA in MA, so we stopped there for window-shopping followed by a dinner of Swedish meatballs at the IKEA cafeteria.

Thanks for reading!
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 03:57 PM
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thanks for sharing. Part of your trip was practically in my back yard!
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 04:31 PM
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Wonderful report, yk! One of my favorite parts of the country...and like DH I am always a little nostalgic about it.
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 05:54 PM
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yk: wonderful report. I adore the heritage museum and gardens; am envious you saw the hydrangeas, my favorite plants. it is worth a return trip for the rhodies.

and the lobster/mango salad looks like it is is to die for!
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 06:05 PM
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Great trip report, yk. Thank you.
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Old Aug 30th, 2011, 09:16 PM
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Loved your report yk. We have enjoyed this area several times and after reading your report I am ready to go back soon.
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Old Aug 31st, 2011, 06:12 AM
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Nice report, yk. Thanks for writing. Wish I had some of those blueberry pancakes right now.
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Old Aug 31st, 2011, 06:30 AM
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yk,
My husband & I will be staying at the Beach Rose Inn for a weekend in September because we purchased the same coupon & I know from our stay there last year that it's a lovely place. We are thinking of renting bikes & riding along the Shining Sea Pathway, & I'm also thinking of going to the Heritage Gardens & Museum so I am happy to hear it exceeded your expectations.

I'm glad my trip report from last year was helpful to you.

We might forego the dinner voucher because we have friends who live in Harwich & want to meet us for dinner that evening. Falmouth is too far for them to drive, so we will meet at a half way point. Did you notice if the Beach Rose Inn serves lunch? I'm hoping we could use the voucher for lunch if they do.
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Old Aug 31st, 2011, 07:23 AM
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yk, I like your method of bolding names of places, restaurants, etc. Makes it easier to read & spot highlights, etc. Thanks.
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Old Aug 31st, 2011, 08:51 AM
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Thanks again for everyone's comments! irishface, what a lovely area you live in! jubilada, it's definitely an incentive for us to head back to Heritage Gardens for the rhododendron bloom.

Kwoo, yes, the bike rack bistro at the Beach Rose Inn does serve lunch. HOwever, you may want to email Sheryll just to confirm. They do lunch out on the patio area so it'll be really nice if the weather cooperates.

We had wanted to bring our bikes or rent bikes so that we could enjoy the Shining Sea Bikeway, however, we had so little time plus it was quite hot and humid. We weren't sure if we wanted to show up in Woods Hole for lunch all sticky & sweaty... Anyway, enjoy your visit in Sept!
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