Acadia National Park

Old Sep 28th, 2012, 04:00 AM
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Acadia National Park

Where in the woods can you hear the sound of a buoy softy clang as it bobs back and forth in the water? Acadia National Park. What a unique and lovely experience! As we climbed over and around rocks along the partially wooded Gorham Mt trail the soft sound of the buoy clang was the music we heard as we made our ascent.

Each year DH and I hope to visit a National Park. And while it is my preference to head West this was a pleasant, and different, park experience for us. When we stay inside a park our focus is the park. We tend not to stray from where we land. Acadia NP, located on Mount Desert Island, has no in-park lodging so our focus included the park as well as the surrounding area. This was a fun experience for us as we had never before been to Maine and we love seeing and exploring new places.

Trip planning:

Since the nearest Barnes & Noble is an hour away and our small, local bookstore has a limited travel section I searched Amazon for a guide and purchased the highly recommended, Acadia, The Complete Guide, by James Kaiser which I found to be extremely insightful. In addition, I purchased Frommer’s Maine Coast day By day, and, Frommer’s Maine Coast which helped fill in some information gaps. As always, I found useful information on Fodor’s as well as Fodor’s Forum.

Once we reached Bar Harbor, our home for the week, we found helpful maps, a dining guide, and more at the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce located on the corner of Main Street and Cottage. By far, the Acadia Weekly, The Guide to Acadia National Park proved most useful. It’s FREE and loaded with information from which cruise ships are in harbor, to ferry schedules, a dining out guide, list of current Ranger Programs, boat cruises, maps, church services and so much more! We kept a copy with us every day.

Useful iPhone App:

The Chimani Acadia National Park app is FREE and we used it more than any other park app downloaded to date. We were able to view trail maps and descriptions at any time. The app also includes general park information, a shuttle guide and driving tour. The Ranger Program icon never displayed existing programs but all other applications associated with the app worked great. We were even able to assist a small group of hikers with their route when path signage wasn’t enough to help them with the direction they wanted to go.


Getting there:

Starting on a Sunday, second week in September, we drove 2 hours to Philly for a 1 hour flight on US Airways into Bangor. While DH waited for luggage I secured the rental car. Oh, how I love the small airports where the car rental lot is across the road, easily accessed by foot. We quickly found our car but there was no one to check us out of the lot. So, I scrutinized the car, including the roof, and because there are a few scratches, and a door ding, I called the rental desk to let them know. They told me it wasn’t an issue so we took off for the scenic hour and ten minute drive to Bar Harbor where, for the next six days, we hit the weather lottery.
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Thank for the report. I love National Parks and do them about the way you do them. Haven't been to Acadia. Have only been to a few east of the Mississippi, but have been to all but 3 or 4 of them to the west. Acadia is high on my list for the next couple of years to do. Not sure if I want to go in the summer or during fall foliage.
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 05:38 AM
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We just got back from a week in Bar Harbor...loved it.
We went kayaking, hiking and had a blast!
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 06:00 AM
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We just returned from our 10th(?) trip to Acadia. I love hearing people's first impressions of this beautiful place!

Spirobulldog, I highly recommend Sept., and note that foliage is not as important alone the coast.

~Liz
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Some good advice. In preparation you should also contact the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce for the Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park Visitor's Guide and the Bar Harbor and Mount Desert Island Menu Guide for info on the island's restaurant. Also ask about the issue of Acadia Weekly (if it is ready) for the week you intend to visit. Also check the official Acadia National Park website for information. There is a great deal of info that can be downloaded and printed.
As with all National Parks, your first stop should be at the Visitor Center (Hull's Cove). Pick up the park map and the Beaver Log, the park's official newsletter. It is printed seasonally, so it will include the Ranger-Naturalist programs offered during your visit. Also see the film that will provide an orientation to the park. You can purchase books, guides, maps and souvenirs in the Eastern National gift shop and get answers from park rangers manning the Information Desk on all that is going on in the park or on specific subjects of interest to you.
There is something for everyone in New England's only national park.

The Olde Ranger
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 10:04 AM
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The leaves were just starting to change. Some, at higher elevation, were in full color. Beautiful. And, yes, Olde Ranger, we went to the Hulls Cove visitor center first thing Monday morning as we arrived too late Sunday.

Spirobulldog, have you made it to Rocky Mt. NP? That's where I'm considering next year.

More to come.... thank you for reading my report.
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 10:24 AM
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thoroughly enjoying it!
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 01:11 PM
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AMC,
Yes, I've been to the Rocky's a few times. Tent camped there for 5 days last year. I live in Oklahoma, so we can actually drive to that one. You are likely to see elk, moose, and deer. An occasional bear. I really like the hike to Sky Pond and it also includes The Loch and a couple of decent waterfalls. Estes Park is right nearby. I would have a meal at Stanley Hotel, just so you can say you've been in it. We have never stayed there, but my parents have.

If you like woods and water, you might consider a trip to Olympic National Park or Redwoods. They have trees, rainforest, mountains, coast all right in the same area too.
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Old Sep 28th, 2012, 01:58 PM
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Sounds good so far.. any photos?

I keep meaning to head on up there but get distracted by the Maine coastline.
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 02:27 AM
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Thank you, spirobulldog, I appreciate the info. ONP and the Redwoods are definitely on the list as is Yosemite. I am in love with Colorado and Utah and need a fix. Except for a few squirrels running around and snakes warming themselves on foot paths we saw very little wildlife this trip.

I'll be sure to add a link to some photos, sassy_cat.
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 03:48 AM
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Lodging:

We spent six nights at the Bar Harbor Inn. Their website is not the best, imo, but we ended up in a better situation than expected. Clearly, there are third floor ocean-front rooms in the photos but they were not an option at the time I booked on-line. So, I booked a second floor OF room expecting a third floor above us. However, there’s a building adjacent to the main inn not featured in the photos that is, primarily, a two story building. There are a few, 3-4, third floor units in the center section of this building but we, thankfully, had no one above us. I get a little wiggy when it comes to noise.

Our room was immaculate and well maintained from the time we checked in until the time we left. The décor appeared new and was very nice but nothing fancy. A generous continental breakfast was included in the price and every afternoon we came home to coffee and cookies in the main lobby. We absolutely loved staying here and we especially loved that we were away from the main building as it was so quiet we were able to sleep with the balcony door open every night, falling asleep and waking up to the sound of waves hitting shore. And then one morning the fog rolled in… somebody had a horn that nearly knocked us out of bed, lol, and I wondered how the guy out front, who had anchored his sailboat the night before, felt when that horn went off. Again and again.



There were some complaints or advisements on Trip Advisor about this hotel because of cruise ship activity. Now that I’ve experienced it I really don’t understand the issues. We slept with the door open and didn’t hear them anchor in the morning, they were so quiet. Also, they didn’t detract from or block our view. They anchor well off shore, are not there every day and are gone by sunset. We enjoyed seeing them and the activity that surrounded them.

Dining:

We arrived with a long researched list of restaurant recs but made only one dinner reservation, prior to arrival, for Sunday night at Gayln’s. We otherwise winged it and made out fairly well. Sunday night seemed to be especially busy so I was glad for the reservation.

Galyn’s. This was the perfect place for our first night in Bar Harbor dinner. Great food and service.

Downeast Deli. In spite of the line out the door we stopped here a couple of times. Great deli and they work quickly to get you through the line.

Thirsty Whale Tavern. The write ups I read about it being a place locals hangout appeared to be true. We really enjoyed the atmosphere and food here and went back a couple of times.

Finback Alehouse. Good food but the staff seemed disinterested and service was uneven.

Paddy’s Irish Pub. We went one night for its proximity to the hotel … my legs and feet were soooo sore from hiking. Not your typical (American) Irish pub thanks to beautiful, upscale décor, contemporary music and good food.

Mount Desert Ice Cream. Loved it and I’m not a big fan of ice cream. Theirs is excellent and what a slew of unusual flavors.

Café This Way. By far, my favorite restaurant of the lot. Excellent food and service.

Jordon Pond House. We went, as did so many others, without reservation but were able to get a table for lunch after a 20 minute wait. I had read a lot of raves about the food at JPH, especially the popovers, and it did not disappoint. Great experience, excellent food and service. We had hiked several hours prior and just showed up in our hiking clothes and backpacks. No one blinked an eye.

Thurston’s. On our way to visit the Bass Harbor Lighthouse we stopped at Thurston’s for lobster rolls. Delicious. Author James Kaiser describes it as the most authentic lobster shack on the island. And, the harbor where it's situated is so picturesque it's definitely worth the trip!
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 05:58 AM
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Thanks for this report. I stayed at the Bar Harbor Inn earlier this summer for a couple of nights and on one of those days a cruise ship arrived. I was in one of those 2nd floor oceanfront rooms with a balcony and there was certainly no noise from that ship!!!

Isn't the park great? And the drives along the ocean I thought were wonderful. Glad you got to visit it.
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 05:59 AM
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and yes those popovers at Jordan Pond and eating outside are wonderful!!!!
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 06:05 AM
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I agree with you about Cafe This Way and Thirsty Whale.
We went to Thirsty's twice and had my favorite appetizer...fried clams!!!! YUMMMY
We had looked into Paddy's and I wanted to tr y it, but did not get a chance.
The atmosphere looked great.

Good report!
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 07:15 AM
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I'm studying your report with great interest since we're headed to Acadia in a little over a week! I hope you'll share some details on the trails you hiked and other spots to stop. (If I can help with your planning a trip to RMNP, I'd be glad to exchange info since we visit 2-3x a year!) Great report... more, please!
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Old Sep 29th, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Dukey, the park is amazing, we were impressed. Honestly, I was expecting Jordon Pond to be a bit of let down after all the raves but it lived up to every one of them. It was one of my favorite park moments, it's a very special place.

Judyrem, perhaps next time? We fell in love with Bar Harbor, too!

tekwriter, the next (last) part of my report will include activities including hikes, etc. I hope it helps. Thanks for your offer, I appreciate it. Happy trip planning!
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Old Sep 30th, 2012, 08:22 AM
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AnnMarie, your Acadia trip report brings back lots of fond memories for me! DH & I spent a week on Mount Desert Island last year (almost the exact same week) with our ILs and SIL. We had a most wonderful time and also had gorgeous weather the entire week.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 02:25 AM
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That's awesome, yk!
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 06:08 AM
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tekwriter.
The fisrt time went to Acadia about 6 years ago, we did strenuous hukes which included The Beehive.
The Beehive was incredibly scary, we did not do that again this year.
We did moderate hikes which included Gorham mt hike, Great Head hike and Northridge Champlain trail.
They all were very good and the scenery was breathtaking.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 11:05 AM
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A week is not enough…

Mount Desert Island deserves as much time as you can allow. In a weeks time we barely scratched the surface. There were moments throughout the week that simply felt magical, it is so beautiful that at times it didn’t seem real. I went prepared with a list of indoor activities in the event of rain as well as plans for a daytrip. Thankfully, it never rained and we had more than enough to keep us occupied on MDI that we didn't feel the need to leave. The hiking trails alone could keep a person occupied for weeks on end, I was truly impressed by all the options. Was it really only two weeks ago we were there?!?

On Sunday we arrive too late to do more than unpack and take a leisurely walk to dinner. We start off on Shore Path and make our way over to the harbor just as the sun begins to set. The boats anchored offshore are ablaze in a golden glow. The harbor looks like a scene from a picture book, it is so beautiful.

Our plan for Monday is to drive Park Loop Road to become familiar with the park. So, first thing, we drive to the Hulls Cove Visitor Center for park passes and yet another map. Driving Park Loop Road for the first time took us hours as we stop at every pull over and parking lot we can find until we finally end at the top of Cadillac Mountain. It was a gorgeous day and every stop had something new to offer and a new, 'most amazing view'. We had an absolute ball climbing over rocks, walking along Sand Beach, listening to the incredible thunder at Thunder Hole, watching the water swell and gather before crashing on shore. What an incredible first day. The only place we couldn’t get near was Jordon Pond. Every lot and roadway was filled so we saved it for another day. It was well worth the wait.

Tuesday we take a circuitous route from Bar Harbor first headed for Seal Cove, followed by Bass Harbor, Seawall, and Southwest Harbor. We take Indian Point Road down to Seal Cove to see the outstanding Seal Cove Auto Museum. What an unexpected surprise. DH and I both love old cars and this place has an impressive collection. Last year one of their cars won first place in the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. Not too shabby. From here we make our way to Thurston’s Lobster Shack before heading over to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse which is currently undergoing restoration and is buried in a sea of scaffolding. Still, we really enjoy climbing over rocks and through woods to more rocks here, the views are fantastic. From here we explore Seawall and Southwest Harbor. Everywhere we turn looks like a postcard.

Wednesday morning we get to Jordon Pond early for the walk around Jordon Pond which, again, takes us hours because we like to stop to take in the scenery, call birds, etc.. By the time we reach Jordon Pond House it’s early afternoon and there is quite a crowd gathered inside and out but we manage to get a table for lunch in only 20 minutes. Jordon Pond and the JPH area take me by surprise. The trail is fabulous and the view from the lawn is just picture perfect. This day, and the day we drove PLR for the first time, are my two favorite days spent on MDI.

We wanted to get out on the water to see the coast line without investing a lot of time or money so Wednesday night we head over to the ticket office at Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. and buy tickets for Thursdays Historical Lighthouse tour which was supposed to last @ 2 hours but was closer to 3. We couldn’t understand a word the narrator said but we enjoyed seeing 5 lighthouses and the coastline, including Acadia.

Once we’re back in town and settled we check the tide schedule and see that we have a couple of hours to walk over the sand bar, that’s revealed at low tide, to Bar Island and make the ascent for terrific views of Bar Harbor and Cadillac Mountain. On our way back to BH we take our time walking over the sand bar, looking at shells and rocks, soaking in the sun.

On Friday, our last full day, we plan to hike most of the day and head for the Gorham Mt. Trailhead, just past Thunder Hole. It starts off innocently enough but holy Fred Flinstone there’s a lot of rock! There are two paths that will get you to the top and I think we took the path less traveled by. It was a fabulous visual challenge to me, we have never before hiked on paths filled with such rocks. I had the distinct sense these paths are where melted snow comes rushing down in spring. The views from the top are amazing (I feel so small) and worth the sore legs. And I loved hearing the clang of that buoy as it rocked back and forth.

Once at the top, instead of turning around, we continue on in the direction of Champlain Mt., passing The Bowl along the way. Although my husband could have gone on forever my legs are tired and I don’t have it in me to climb any further so we turn around and follow the trail out to Sand Beach. We watch hikers make their way up Beehive and I wish we had more time. For now, it’s another hike back to the car along Ocean Path where we make numerous stops along the way because it‘s too beautiful not to stop and take in the views. The sun is setting, there are folks with their lawn chairs set up on rocks gazing out at the water or reading. No one is in a hurry to leave.

Each day we loved coming back to Bar Harbor. We enjoyed walking around town, checking out the shops, eating ice cream. It’s a very charming place. The flowers especially were incredible, I haven’t seen such beautiful flowers in summer since Alaska. This was a very different National Park experience for us, we went with the intention of hiking but found ourselves distracted by all there is to see and do on MDI. We look forward to all the next Park has to offer. Could it be more buoys?
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