Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - a rather long trip report 9/15 October

Well, at last our stay in New York came after months of planning. Arrived at JFK on Monday 9 october after a good flight from Paris. Only having one large bag each we took the Airtrain and A/C subway to our Soho Bed and Breakfast logings. This worked really well. Took half and hour door to door and cost us $7 each on the metro card.

I was asked on an earlier posting to give a report on our bed and breakfast. This was booked through City Lights and was brilliant. Large very clean room with fridge, microwave, kettle and coffee machine. The fridge was filled with very good quality breakfast food (french cheese, salami, butter, cream cheese, whole grain bread, fresh fruit, milk and juice) Also provided were meusli cereal, different teas, fresh coffee, sugar, salt, etc. The room looked onto a garden so was quiet like in the country, just a large bird (jay) in the tree!! We had our own fully equiped bath with all toileteries and lots of towels. The best bit was the huge king size bed with the most fantastic mattress and loads of pillows. There was also a TV, iron and hairdryer and lots of hanging space with full length mirror. We had our own front door key and could come and go as we wished. The C/E subway stop was half a block away; the 6 seven blocks away and the R/W five blocks away. So the transport was fantastic. We were able to leave our bags in a small room by the door on the last day until our car came, free of charge.

After a quick wash we headed off in the direction of Macy’s to explore and look at shops, ESB, etc. The first thing was a fire in Macy’s, so everyone was out on the street, fire engins and police everywhere. Took some great photos. Carried on looking at shops (my friend is a shopaholic) and ended up at the Rockefeller Centre at 6 pm so went up to the TOTR. Very good tip this, thanks, as no queue and great views. By this time we had been awake since 5.30 am french time and were feeling a bit light headed. We went back to Soho and had a good pizza in a small restaurant next to our logings. Unpacked, bath and bed by 10 pm.

10 October. Leisurely breakfast (we are on holiday after all) after a good night in above mentioned bed. Walked up 6th avenue in the most fantastic warm sunshine, looking at shops, etc. Went to Macy’s again, and were able to go in. Everything too expensive for us. Looked at Daffys, what a mess, and couldn’t find anything. Went to the Times Square earth cam at 1.30 pm pre-organised with friend’s 8 year old boy to wave at the camera so he could see her before going to bed in France. Bought post cards, tee shirts, base ball cap, yellow taxi, etc. for her boy and then walked to helicopter pad on 12 av. 30th street where her husband had booked a Big Apple flight for us as a birthday present. Not a very nice area to walk in (truck depots, odd people wandering about). The helicopter ride was fantastic and well worth the money. We sat in front next to the pilot. After this we then walked up to the Circle Line Ferry on 42nd Street and were first in line for the Harbour Lights Cruise. You will notice that we have not eaten since breakfast!! We do not have much money so took a banana each from our breakfast selection and had that for lunch. The Harbour lights cruise was full (last day of good weather forecast) and well worth doing, although it got pretty cold by the end if you stayed outside. We got some lovely photos of the lights going on and the SOL all lit up. I also got some good pictures from the helicopter. I am afraid I cannot post them as we do not have broad band internet in our part of France and photos take forever to send over the net. After the cruise we took the 50 bus to Rockefeller centre and then the F subway to 14th Street where my friend had seen some jeans at a good price. The shop was just closing!! Too bad. We then walked to Greenwich avenue to have fish and chips from A Salt and Battery. I had read that they were very good. It was an interesting experience to say the least. You sit on crome seats watching yourself in a large mirror eating rather greasy, fattening food. We were pretty hungry by this time and the fish was very good, as were the onion rings. The chips were not up to standard. I am English and know what good fish & chips should be like. We then walked home, bath and bed.

11 October. We had a Big Apple Greater at 10 am. He was a lovely elderly gentleman who took us around Greenwich Village and showed us several interesting buildings; the mews, Chumleys, the narrow house and Washington Arch. He also gave us lots of information about New York and we were very pleased to have met him. We then went back to the jeans shop near 14th Street and spent at least two hours getting everything my friend wanted!! I bought some Timberland boots for a treck I am doing next year. We walked over to Broadway and spent the rest of the day window and/or real shopping in the pouring rain. Thoroughly soaked we went for supper at Le Bistro des Amis. They do a prix fix until 7 pm (it was just 7 pm) for $21.95 and the food and service is excellent. Home, bath and bed (after trying on all the shopping again!!).

12 October. Up early as we are going to the Niagara Fall for the day. Flight from JFK with Jet Blue. Used the subway and airtrain again. Arrived in Buffalo. Very cold (5°C) looks like snow!! I had rented a car in advance. They refused to give us the small car I had paid for and we got a huge 4 x 4 for the same price. Drove to the falls. Went to the Cave of the Winds in freezing snow and rain. Walked up the platforms in obligatory rubber sandles and plastic mac. Got completely soaked and vowed to do no more activities that involved getting wet. Changed into dry clothes we had brought with us and drove over to Canada. Visited Niagara on the Lake. Did some wine tasting (I only had half a glass as driving), bought a husky toy dog for friend’s little boy. By then snow really falling. Had supper in the Skylon revolving restaurant. Not very good food, but fantastic view, as we had not yet been able to see the Falls due to the weather!! Went through customs on Rainbow bridge to be told airport in Buffalo closed and interstate shut due to weather!! Decided to continue anyway and battled with deep snow, no visibility, cars sliding all over the place and snow covered signs on the “open” interstate. Got to the airport after one and a half hours of hell. Told that flight delayed for 20 minutes so felt quite happy. Then flight continued to be delayed until 1.30 am. Loaded into airplane. Sat for 2 and half hours listening to people scraping ice off plane!! Then unloaded back into airport at 4.30 am. Only minimum electricity, no heat, no food, bathrooms all blocked!! Spent the night on benches trying to keep warm. We were given some hot coffee and a banana at about 1 pm after a lot of complaints!! The flight left at 5.30 pm. We missed our Wicked performance that evening as did not get back in time and the Tenement Museum tour of the afternoon. No refund as an “act of god”. Thanks God. Had a lovely hot bath, bought a take away salad from local deli and a good bottle of wine, then bed (bliss).

14 October. Lovely cold sunny day. Slept late after exhausting 48 hours. Booked Dial 7 car to pick us up the next day at 6.30 pm for JFK. Took the subway to World Trade Centre and visited St. Pauls first. How very moving. We decided not to take any photos as we felt it was not the right thing to do. We walked over the the Winter Garden where they show how the new building will look. Very interesting. Then looked over to the site. Again very moving. Shame about all the tourists and their cameras. We left on the river side and walked round to the Fire department building and studyed the plaque on the wall. The whole area is so moving and we felt really upset seeing it all. We walked around the business area, such narrow streets and so different to Midtown or Soho. Then to Century 21 where my friend couldn’t believe the choices and prices. She got masses of things. I bought some handbags as Christmas presents for family. We had planned to walk Brooklyn Bridge but it was much too cold so we went to Pier 17 where she did more shopping!! Tried to eat at Joe’s Shanghai but the queue was too long so walked home and had supper at Mezzogiorno in Soho near our loging. Very good italian food and excellent service. Home, packing bath, bed.

15 October. Our last day. Tidied up room and finished packing. Left our luggage in special room and walked up Broadway to Flatiron building, then Madison Square Park where we had a hamburger at the Shake Shack. Very good and again excellent service. Lovely sitting in the sun watching the people and dogs!! Walked up to Columbus Circle and walked to Strawberry Fields (I am a big Lennon and Beetles fan) then accross park looking at all the people and dogs – again!! Its a Sunday thing. We went to the Times Square Church at 3 pm. Fantastic atmosphere and gospel singing. Well worth going just for the singing. I found the whole experience marvelous. Took the subway back to 14th Street and walked back home down Broadway doing some last minute shopping. Car arrived on time and took us in great comfort to JFK. Total cost with tip (no toll) 61$. A very good service. Flight to Paris on time and another 3 hour trip on train and subway until we at last got back home.

A fantastic trip. We met some lovely people. Everyone, either in the shops or in the street was so friendly and helpful when we asked for directions, etc. Much better than either Paris or London. The streets are rather dirty, too many rubbish bags lying around and the subway is really dirty, but the people are great. We will be back next year all being well. As others have said before me, sorry this is so long!!