Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - A Charleston Holiday ...

We were just in Charleston for a three-night visit, including Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. I have visited the city several times before but I thank everyone here who reports on Charleston because it's great to have updates, and everyone is always so helpful. In particular, I want to thank GoT and Escargot for their recent comments on HarbourView Inn which turned out to be a real gem, and I would go back in a minute.

We arrived in the area Dec. 23, and immediately drove to Sullivan's Island, as we had never been there. Had planned to eat at Sullivan's there, as it gets great reviews, but found it did not open until 5:00 pm, so after taking some pictures, and seeing what seemed to be a 10' Nutcracker on somebody's porch, we were off to the historic district.

The HarbourView Inn was all that we'd heard it would be ... lovely and elegant but with a warm and welcoming atmosphere, beautiful decorated with poinsettias, and a Christmas tree beside a glowing fireplace in the lobby.

The front desk was terrific, and we were given a room on the first floor (really second-floor level). It was a standard, with the "power grid" view softened by palmettos and a fence, and lovely window coverings. The room was well-decorated, with a really nice bathroom ... everything just right with both. We liked the close proximity to the Atrium on the same floor, where refreshments were available anytime you wanted them.

We especially enjoyed the wine & cheese (very good quality) reception from five to six each evening. We'd take our plates to the rooftop terrace to enjoy the lights on the water and throughout the city. The warm cookies (and pitchers of milk) put out at nine in the evening were yummy.

There is turn-down service (we prefer to do without it), and the continental breakfasts (choice of three combos plus extras) available in the morning were just fine, much more than I could eat, and again, everything top quality. We had ours delivered to our room, but you could also enjoy them in the Atrium or on the rooftop terrace.

This trip was really to eat/shop/relax, as we have already seen seen most of the historical homes, plantations, etc. in the area. We did visit Magnolia Plantation on Christmas Day, especially to see the camellias, and I was amazed at how pretty the Winter gardens are! Wow ... with the beautiful red berries on the Holly and Nandina bushes and all the camellias blooming, it was a real treat. Not as breathtaking as when the azaleas bloom in the Spring, but lovely.

One of our most memorable times was the Christmas Eve Midnight Service at St. Philip's Episcopal Church, within walking distance of our hotel. Arriving at 10:30 pm, we found carolers in Dickensian dress greeting us, the walk-way lit with luminaria. So picturesque ... The church was simply decorated with garlands of greenery, red poinsettias and red velvet bows, and hurricane lamps glowing in each window. So beautiful ... The voices of the choir (incredible) soared, giving you shivers, and the service ended in all candelight. Really, the most beautiful service I've ever seen. As we departed the church with our candles, there was a striking live nativity scene .. lovely.

We also paid a visit to the Charleston Place Hotel where'd we'd stayed years before. We were not disappointed with the decorations ... gorgeous trees done in all red, red poinsettias in front of the mirrors, and the amazing train set-up in the lobby. A really beautiful and classy hotel.

The first two nights, our dinners were at S.N.O.B., and really, everything was incredible. First night, my DH had the Pecan-Crusted Flounder with Blue-Cheese & Shrimp Risotto, I had the NY Strip with Madeira Sauce and Maverick (scalloped) potatoes. We split a special salad ... arugula with carmelized fresh pear, blue cheese, pistachios and dried cranberries, and a sweet balsamic vinegarette dressing. To die for! Their Sour Cream Apple Streusel pie is great, as well ... :p Second night, DH had their Seared Sea Scallops, I had the best Prime Rib I've had in decades, I swear! He had the same pear salad AGAIN, while I had one with arugula, apples, blue cheese, toasted pecans, grilled red onions ... OMG, I could eat tubs of those salads.

Our Christmas dinner was at Magnolia's ... superb as always! We started with their famed chicken livers, country ham, carmelized onions in Madeira sauce appetizer ... my favorite dish in Charleston! Then I had their traditional Christmas turkey dinner (cornbread dressing, best cranberry sauce ever, buttery mashed potatoes, green beans), DH had their Low Country seafood on grits. It was all howlingly good ... and then we had pecan pie with whipped cream! ;;) Now THAT was a holiday dinner to remember!

Our only "clunk" was stopping for a luncheon bowl of chowder and beer at A. W. Shucks, as hardly anything else was open at that time, and my feet were hurting. Their She-Crab Soup was a horror ... don't ever chance it. Service slow, no atmosphere. How does it stay in business in that area??? Oh, well, the beer was good!

We enjoyed browsing the City Market, walking in Waterfront Park (so many pooches in their Christmas sweaters and collars, some embarrassed to be wearing jingle bells and bows ... :), and really loved the location of our hotel ... perfect to walk everywhere we were interested in!

Charleston remains one of my favorite places to visit, any time of year. So friendly and charming, so gracious and beautiful! ((f)) If you haven't been, GO at the first opportunity!