8 nights in Charleston and Savannah
 

We spent March 31-April 8 on a trip from Portland, Oregon to see Savannah and Charleston as we'd never been there.

We had a 3:15 a.m. wake-up call for our Alaska Air flight. I was using air miles which made the trip a bit longer--Seattle--Dalles/FW--to Savannah. Eliminated the Seattle leg on the flight home. Except for the Rockies our poor drought-affected country looks pretty brown and dry. I agree with recent news reports. The Alaska Air leg was wonderful; the partner Envoy flight was the bottom of the barrel.

Before you wonder why we stayed in 4 hotels on this trip you need to know we were originally booked to spend one of the nights in Asheville in order to tour the Biltmore the following day. I broke 6 ribs in February and decided to eliminate the extra 9 hours driving.

It was evening by the time we reached the Savannah historic district. We stayed overnight at the Staybridge Inn. It was an adequate stay for a quick in and out of town. They were polite and friendly and the location was good for walking to restaurants, etc.

Picked up our car rental and drove to Charleston which was a bit more than the promised 2 hour drive. Since this was the night I canceled Asheville, we stayed at the Courtyard Marriott on the waterfront. It was a nice room and turned out to be a pleasant variation from the hectic historic district. The area was short on lunchtime restaurants but we took a vigorous walk to Salty Mikes and had our first southern food.

The next 3 nights we spent at Indigo Inn in the historic district. First off, I must admit I can't sleep with loud air conditioning running, lots of street noise, nor lots of light coming into the room. We were there at peak season so maybe it's quieter earlier in the spring. The room was cute with lots of reading lamps, nice shower, creative (good) buffet breakfast, the standard wine and cheese late in the day. Unfortunately, two nights there was a huge group (maybe a family reunion) who had to yell at each other and laugh out in the courtyard until after 11pm.

Next installment after I get my breakfast coffee.

In Charleston we had meals at: Magnolia, Peninsula Grill (expensive) and Gigi. All were good. Did not make it to SNOB or Fig.

The horse carriages were scenic and it was nice to hear the clip clop. However, we didn't ride in one. I was raised in ranch country, and every town I've lived in for the last 35 years offered them.

There were lots of art galleries and scenic church towers in the district. My only purchase was a lovely, expensive sofa pillow which I had shipped.

We toured Magnolia Plantation. I was a little disappointed that the azaleas, camellias, wisteria etc were nothing as prolific as the parks in Portland and Eugene. The one plant that I had never seen before was a Cherokee Rose--climbing up the trees. I enjoyed seeing the rear of the house from the river side (which was originally the front). The historic story was interesting too. We did not take a boat or swamp tour. I felt like if one paid for the entire experience it was over-priced for what you saw but maybe they have lots of maintenance fees.

Upon leaving Charleston we detoured through Beaufort for lunch and wished we had more time there. I think I read it was the second oldest city in the country. Beautiful setting on lots of waterways (a sound) looking toward islands. DH said it looked like a wonderful area for boating. He liked the swampy low country (in terms of boating.) I found it non-scenic.

Back to Savannah. We stayed at the Planters Inn. It was also a nice room; nice lobby; really lousy free breakfast. Even worse than at the Best Western where I stay for $85/night before going off to breakfast somewhere else. At least the air conditioner was quiet, modern, and easily adjustable. Mostly quiet.

We ate a dinner at the Pink House, a lunch in their bar, and had a drink in their tavern.

I loved looking at the squares in Savannah. We even sought out the one with the huge scenic fountain. Actually I guess it was called a park. I took several pictures of moss hanging from trees.

The Planters Inn was in a good location for restaurants and for walking along the river. Something about the area reminded me a little of Europe. We also had a meal or two at Vics on the river, and an Irish coffee at Churchills Pub.

The highlight for us was the 3 nights we sat out on the rooftop bar of the Cotton Sail Hotel and watched tugs pushing barges up and down the river. Very scenic. Weather was perfect for this--actually good weather the whole trip--low to high seventies. Someone said it was the biggest container port on the east coast. Bartenders were variable but we had excellent old-fashioneds one night.

I toured the Owens house which had some unique features and stories, plus it was walking distance from our room.

As to whether this was a good trip, I think it depends on where one lives. We did enjoy some good southern fried chicken and meatloaf, could pass on the east coast crab as we're used to Dungeness and king.

If it doesn't sound like we filled up 8 days, keep in mind I had broken ribs, and DH has bad knees and doesn't like to walk. So we saw what I could push for him to see. Luckily all flights were on time and no lost luggage. Next up: Scotland in June.

Thanks to everyone who contributed tips for places to stay and to eat!

It's hard to tell if you enjoyed the trip - or not.

Yes, the big park at the end of the historic district in Savannah is Forsyth Park. A few of the squares have fountains but the big one at the entrance to Forsyth Park is lovely indeed.

The Planters Inn in Savannah is a favorite for its location on a quiet, green square (with John Wesley in the middle), its location next to the Pink House and its location for easy walking to the rest of the historic district. It does remind one of Europe. I think that's the beauty of the quieter areas of Savannah and NOLA.

The Pink House was built in 1789 and there aren't many structures still around from the 1700s. It sounds like you really like the food. I do too and eat there on every visit. Glad you liked it!

Sounds like the Cotton Sail roof is a winner. I haven't been there yet, but plan to check it out.

Thanks for your detailed trip report.

Sorry Starrs. The back pain from the ribs has colored everything I do. I did enjoy the trip. The funny thing is now that any inconveniences have been blurred by time, DH is finding more things he enjoyed about it. I knew he'd be this way; just hard to get him to go in the first place. I do appreciate all your advice.

Let me know what you think about the Cotton Sail roof. Sometimes we have happy hour lunch on the porch of a big hotel called the Riverplace in Portland and watch activity on the Willamette.

Thanks for the objective report. I'm not at all surprised by the somewhat lukewarm reaction to your trip, especially from someone who traveled so far. Charleston and Savannah are just great for relatively short trips, but the hype that has surrounded them over the last few years promoted by certain travel mags strikes many of us familiar with the cities as overblown.

Charleston the top destination in the world? Ridiculous.