SnowCone

We will be visiting friends in SF early July and while they're working during the week, we'd like to head out and drive up or down the coast...maybe Yosemite?

Our goals:
what we'd like to do: see some big trees, beaches, wildlife, do some hiking

where we'd like to stay: small town (near ocean?) where we can stay cheaply - motels are fine. We like to meet other people, be able to go out for dinner and grab a beer at the local bar, etc. Rural is fine, but would prefer towns where there is at least somewhere go for dinner and a drink.

how we'd like to do it: we're fine with staying somewhere new each night, provided it's not hours and hours of driving each day...or 1 day here, 2 days there, etc.

Places we're interested in: Redwood National Parks, Humboldt County Redwoods (Ave of Giants, etc.), Mendocino/Ft. Bragg, Pt. Reyes, Big Sur, Yosemite...

I have heard phenomenal things about Yosemite, but I was concerned it might be too touristy/packed with people to make the experience enjoyable...does it get as bad as that?

I had originally wanted to go up to the Redwoods National Park, but I know it is a LONG long drive - if it's really worth seeing, we are up for it...but I wonder if it would make more sense with our timeline to go somewhere closer to SF.

Maybe either Big Sur / Yosemite...OR Mendocino/Humboldt?

Any thoughts, advice, or suggestions for where to go, what to see, or where to stay would be appreciated! I've spent days on the internet researching and feel overwhelmed by all the options - time for some advice from people who know/have seen these areas! Thanks in advance!
AT

PamSF

see my Pt Reyes Get Away trip report. You will be about 1.5 hours max and easy drive from SF.

sf7307

I assume you know that Yosemite is nowhere near the coast?

SnowCone

haha yes, sorry - my post was confusing, tagging Yosemite on to the coastal places I'd love to visit, but I do know where it is.

I definitely want to spend some time along the coast, but would entertain the thought of heading to Yosemite in addition if I knew we wouldn't be packed in like sardines with everyone in their RVs...I've heard some horror stories and just don't know if they're true!

PamSF - thanks - I'll check out your PT Reyes scoop!

Dayenu

How can a natural wonder like Yosemite be "too touristy"??

sf7307

Well, when it's full of RVs and people packed in like sardines, I think then it can be called 'too touristy' or at least 'too crowded with tourists to fully enjoy it'.

montereybob

IMO Yosemite is one of the most beautiful places on earth. It is not "touristy". It is all natural beauty. However, it does get too crowded in the summer months. It might be best to reserve a trip to Yosemite for your future when you can go in Fall or Spring to avoid the crowds. Also, for lodging in Yosemite valley you will need reservations many months in advance.
For charming small towns near the ocean, you can't beat Carmel and Pacific Grove. You can find a wide range of places to stay there from reasonable to very expensive. From there it is a 30 min drive to Big Sur----a spectacularly beautiful drive.

SnowCone

Thanks everyone. Sorry, guess my word choice isn't the best - you nailed it for me, montereybob - too crowded was what I really meant. I have a friend who is a park ranger at Yosemite who tells me it is one of the most gorgeous place on earth, and it is also a place that can be extremely crowded in the summer. (almost uncomfortably so, according to her) I was just trying to get an idea of what to expect, since I don't know.

Thanks for the tips on Carmel and Pacific Grove, mb - will start checking them out!

kssthesky

I second Carmel and Pacific Grove. I haven't been to Big Sur before, but I know it isn't far from Carmel and from the list of things you are interested in, I think you would enjoy it a lot.

traveller1959

Big Sur - is good for a most scenic drive, but you have hardly access to the ocean and very limited accomodation. Pfeiffer Beach is breathtaking, but you have to drive a narrow, steep, winding road to go there. I would not stay there, but do a daytrip to Big Sur.

Carmel - is a beautiful small town with a beautiful mission, gingerbread houses, lots of boutiques and souvenir shops, a beautiful white sandy beach (and cold water). Often overrun by tourists.

Pacific Grove - is a rather quiet, charming, somewhat stylish seaside resort with rocky coastline and sandy beaches, flowerbeds and a beautiful oceanfront park.

Monterey (the neighboring town) - is more crowded, louder, with lots of bars and restaurants and shops.

Santa Cruz - has a rollercoaster on the beach - you get the picture?

Half Moon Bay - is in the midst of an extremely scenic stretch of coastline but the town itsself has not much to offer.

sf7307

but the town itsself has not much to offer.

actually, while the town itself is just a stretch of shops and restaurants, there are some very NICE shops and restaurants. It's a nice place to stop for a cup of coffee or a snack on your way from Monterey to San Francisco.

Alfredos_mom

Ano Nuevo State Park
Early July is not exactly the best time for a visit to see the wildlife there, but you might want to consider stopping at Ano Nuevo state park. It is a protected breeding ground for the California elephant seal. The real excitement happens in winter and early spring. In the summer, all you'll have a chance to see are some unpaired males ("losers" the docents call them) who have decided to linger and loll on the beach. (Not such a bad plan, given the shark population!) I just wanted to mention Ano Nuevo because you listed wildlife and nature among your interests. It's a very beautiful spot on a lovely stretch of coastline (as Traveller1959 mentioned), on Hwy 1, between Half Moon Bay and Monterey. If you're driving that stretch of road anyway, it's worth a stop. Off season, it's pretty easy to join a docent walk on a drop-in basis. (Visitors may not walk over to the breeding area unaccompanied.) During the active season, you need to book a walk pretty far in advance, or take your chances on dropping in and grabbing a no-show's place. You can wrap the whole visit up in as little as 2 hours. They have picnic tables, too.

Humboldt County/Redwoods
If you like small towns/local life, you might enjoy very much Garberville in Humboldt County, just over the Humboldt/Mendocino county line. It's got a funky mainstreet with a single-screen independently-run cinema still in operation, a townie bar a couple doors down from that, a Best Western that's not too exp., a delicious breakfast spot called the Wood Rose Cafe. There's also a mom n pop grocery store to fill up your ice chest, if that's your style. You can use G'ville as a stopping point on 101 up to the redwoods. If you feel like splurging for one night, the Benbow Inn on 101 (one exit south of the Garberville exit) is a lovely historic hotel with a very nice dining room and a beautiful lounge. (If you don't stay at the Benbow, you might want to have a drink at their bar or a meal in their restaurant to catch some of the spirit of the place.) For another funky old town, you might also like Ferndale, too.

Yosemite is one of my favorite places on earth, but it's a difficult place to visit on the fly, particularly if you want to camp. Early summer is best for the drama of the waterfalls. Late summer is magical because the river has warmed up for swimming and the air temperature is just perfect. My favorite visit, and I've been in all seasons, was in the week following Labor Day weekend. It was so nice not to wake up to a frosty morning! If you're looking at early July (are we talking 4th of July thereabouts?) - yes, it will be a circus. Come back again, and go in September!!

Enjoy your trip!

SnowCone

Wow - thanks so much everyone, for all of your comments and suggestions! So many places to choose from! Wish I could stay a month...sigh.

Pacific Grove and Monterey both sound fun, and I remember driving through Half Moon Bay (about 20 years ago!) and loving it....

I would love the chance to see the elephant seals you mentioned, A'sMom - that sounds fantastic! I also really appreciated your tips about Humboldt/Ferndale/Garberville...that whole area sounds lovely, and I would love to see some Redwoods.

We would be looking at right after the 4th...July 7th -11th, so I was afraid Yosemite might be a zoo. We might have the chance to stay with our ranger friend, though, at "ranger camp," but it might be nice to skip the crowds and go another time in September, as you said...hmm...

Thank you all for helping me narrow it down - it really helps to hear first-hand accounts and not just what you read from guidebooks, websites, etc.

Hoping for some sunshine! It's been raining here in NYC for what seems like weeks now...

minnehappylis

We saw elephant seals at Point Reyes National Seashore; also a gorgeous destination an easy drive from SF.

Grassshopper

A good place to see Redwoods without driving hours and hours is Armstrong Redwoods in Guerneville. You can combine it with some wine tasting in Healdsburg and the Russian River wineries, the Redwood forest and then continue over to the coast and see Bodega Bay. You'll get a nice drive along the coast. www.wineroad.com has good interactive maps.

Alfredos_mom

SnowCone, I was thinking about your 4-day time frame and have a few thoughts. If you have a place to stay in Yosemite, that’s golden in July. Yeah, the valley floor will be very busy with buses and daytrippers. The neat thing about Yosemite, though, is that it’s this grand, deep bowl of a valley, so the Feds couldn’t mess it up with a “Scenic Drive” format, with parking lots and pullouts every ¼ of a mile ala Yellowstone. If you are fit enough to walk even just a mile, you can climb away from the yahoos in their RV’s very quickly. The valley is ringed with steep and challenging day hikes that are beyond the physical capacity of 99.5% of Americans, so it's rather easy to find your own space in the park.
If you decide to keep Yosemite for another time, and instead stay on the coastal side of 101, I would suggest you do one of two loops: either a northbound or a southbound out of SF. (First, I should say I’m leaving out SF because I’m assuming you’ve already got that covered. Second, I'm also running on the assumption that you're wrapping up Day 4 with a Red Eye back to NY, since that is what we usually do.)
If a northbound loop, you could make your endpoint Humboldt Redwoods State Park. Along the way, any or all of these: e.g. Day 1 - Muir Woods, Point Reyes, a piece of Hwy 1 on the gorgeous Sonoma Coast (Bodega Bay – where “The Birds” was filmed). Loop around to the Russian River (sleep at Jenner or Guerneville or Sebastopol) e.g. Day 2 – give yourself a low mileage day on the beautiful Russian River, rent a canoe at Burkes near Sebastopol (float downstream, they pick you up at their beach), wine tasting, nice dinner someplace nearby. Sebastopol itself has a Michelin starred restaurant. Day 3 – Get yourself back over to 101 to drive up to Garberville. Don’t blink as you pass through Hopland or you’ll miss Phoenix Bread Company where they make fougasse in a wood-fired oven. Note the signs for wineries and antique stores, etc. as you pass through Mendocino County (if you’re into that). I mentioned historic-landmarked Benbow Inn -- nice dining room, and a wood-paneled lounge with amazing assortment of fine whiskeys. A cheaper alternative for dinner with atmosphere is The Brass Rail Steakhouse in Redway (next town up the highway from Garberville) housed in what was an old loggers’ bordello. Day 4: Breakfast at the Wood Rose (or the Benbow Inn if you stay there), early hike in the redwood park, then make your way back comfortably to SFO. If you’re aiming to catch the Red Eye back to NY, be sure to leave enough time to get through the traditional bottleneck by Santa Rosa and to get through the city. To be safe, you might want to skip making any dinner commitment in the City and plan to just have a simple late dinner at SFO before your flight – it’s one of the best airports for food. Honestly, though, you may never leave the Russian River area, once you’ve spent a day there! (I just wish it wasn't so expensive = typical wine country prices.)
If a southbound loop, which might be less stressful: Hwy 1 down through those funky coastal towns (Half Moon Bay is just one of them). Stretch your legs walking out to Maverick’s point (where the famous surf competition is held. To get there, basically follow signs to El Granada and the HMB airport and follow other gawkers towards the beach or ask someone.) Continue down the coast, Ano Nuevo (or stop at any of the state or county beaches for a visit if it’s not a typical foggy, chilly July day). Consider a day hike in the beautiful Santa Cruz mountains, for example at Big Basin State Park (where you can also see redwoods, by the way) Remember also that Santa Cruz Mountains is its own appellation now (great for pinot noir and zinfandel), so look out for wineries and tasting opportunities, if you’re into that. (Check their website for opening times & picnicking opportunities.) Continue on down the coast to the famous destinations of Monterey, Carmel and Big Sur. Give Santa Cruz a look-see for something less ritzy. The famous aquarium in Monterey, of course. For your last day, you could wrap it up/close the loop like this: breakfast and a walk on the coast, cross over to 101, consider visiting the John Steinbeck museum in Salinas if you’re a fan. Said to be worth a visit. (It was opening just as we left CA.) Stop in Palo Alto/Menlo Park for a nice dinner (I have some faves) on your way up 101 to SFO to drop your car and catch your Red Eye. If Steinbeck doesn't float your boat, consider just motoring back up to the Bay Area to get within safe distance of your departure airport so you can relax. Stop in Palo Alto for a visit in the town and to stroll around Stanford University campus. The university has a large collection of Rodin sculptures, plus it’s just a lovely place to stroll. They call it "The Farm," you know. See if there's an exhibition on at the Hoover Institution. They have a vast archive and from time to time have some really interesting displays. If it’s a typical July on the coast, you’ll be happy for at least one toasty warm sunny day in California, and you’re sure to get it in Palo Alto. Happy to answer any questions or follow-ups. I live in Philly now, but am a native Californian.

Alfredos_mom

I just want to second Grasshopper's recommendation. Great idea! I am getting a bit worried you will be stressing to get back to the airport to not miss your flight. You could get stuck somewhere on 101 in a construction zone.

ncsuchemist2002

Don't miss Yosemite! We went during the middle of the week (last week) and it wasn't too crowded. Spectacular beyond words.

The Big Sur was also beautiful...but beware of fog.

Supercilious

There's no way to predict but the coast will probably be overcast during the early part of July as it has for almost the whole month of June. PamSF lucked out last weekend and caught a short break from the gloominess. Right now it's back again.

If you go up to Northern California, to the redwoods, you will find the weather not as dreary. Much of the redwoods are a little inland and offer great weather in summer.

However, the weather is much more dependable inland in July. Yosemite will be gorgeous but it will be crowded as you have feared. But, if you have a ranger friend, you should be able to get tips about where to go to avoid all the tourists. Usually, just going on a trail and getting away from the road is all it takes. And, in July, the High Country is glorious.

There are also many other beautiful areas in the Sierra besides Yosemite. Places like Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Lakes, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are all well known but there are many other great places not so popular where you can get away from the crowds and enjoy magnificent scenery. Also, there are places like Lassen National Park and Mount Shasta that are very scenic that time of year and much less crowded.

sunbum1944

I didn't see mention of Capitola- cute beach town south of Santa Cruz- I think its very fun to visit - one of the cutest towns on the coast.

On a recent visit I went kayaking in Monterey Bay - very fun- lots of sea otters with babies on their chest, sea lions and seals- we had a guide - she said elephant seals were farther north. Really enjoyed it