Peterboy - I remember your (wonderful) trip report and the fact that you had brought your own coffee paraphenalia! I thought of you when we were out there and wished we'd had been able to do the same - just couldn't justify buying similar type of kit for the trip.

I only noticed the Mean Bean on the day we left (I have a feeling in was mentioned in your report though and you'd bought wraps from there or somewhere nearby? Perhaps I'm thinking of someone or somewhere else though). I got a decent caffein fix when we got to Moab though - the Wicked Brew and Love Muffin Cafe both served up a good espresso.

We got the great breakfast wraps at the Cafe next to the Gallery. We call it the Gallery Cafe since we never saw another name posted anywhere. It is 'up by the road' just
before the turn into the Sol Market as I recall. Also, the coffee bar at Zion Lodge serves expresso as well as coffee and they open at 6AM...a handy place if you'r an early riser staying in Zion NP.

Glad to hear the offerings were better in Moab.

Day 5:

Our drive on the Zion-Mount Carmel Hwy started off promisingly the next morning with our first sighting of a Big Horn Sheep. Admittedly, we only saw its behind through binoculars as it scampered up a rocky slope, but an exciting wildlife sighting for us nonetheless. We drove through pleasant scenery, before turning off onto Hwy 12 and were presented almost immediately with our first red rock ‘hoodoos’ alongside the road – what a sight!

By the time we had almost arrived at Bryce (about 10.30am having left Zion at 7.30/8ish – yes we stopped for photos a lot on the way!), we saw signs suggesting we tune into a local AM radio frequency to get park info, so we parked briefly at Rubys Inn to get the low down. The brief seemed to be ‘get the seasonal shuttle bus, which alleviates parking issues in the park, traffic noise and congestion, environmental impact etc’. All things I believe in, and as we veered towards doing this, DH raised some concerns about leaving all our luggage in the car for so long and why didn’t we take the car into the park to the Visitors Centre and find out more about the shuttle before making a decision. We were staying in Tropic, so didn’t plan on checking into our motel until later that day.

Well, I’m glad I followed his suggestion. What they didn’t tell you, was that the shuttle bus doesn’t cover the whole park – only the main viewpoints and trailheads at the north end. I’m a bit ashamed to say it, but we did take our car into the park in the end – despite environmental impact – but I think we got to see more as a result. The shuttle only runs until Autumn (Fall) I believe, so any potential visitors reading this who plan to visit Spring/Summer time won’t be able to take the shuttle anyway.

After a brief stop at the Visitors centre, we decided to start off on the Queens Garden/Navajo Loop trail combo. We parked at Sunrise point and set off down into the canyon. Well. I’ve never seen scenery like it, and probably won’t ever again! The view from the rim is incredible – who would have thought that nature could create such an otherworldly landscape? Not to mention the sheer scale of ‘wilderness’ in the distance too. Not much can prepare you for the first view of Bryce – and having spent some time soaking it all in, we were itching to hike down there. Despite aching legs from the previous day’s Angels landing extravaganza, we set off. Neither of us could walk more than a few paces without stopping to take another photo of the hoodoos from a different angle. I thought the only place with red rock like this would be Mars!

The altitude meant it was much cooler at Bryce than Zion had been, but after a while descending into the canyon, we began to warm up. The trails were busy(ish) but not overcrowded, but we felt there was a very different kind of vibe at Bryce compared to Zion – more ‘tourists’ and sightseers rather than hikers. Lots of people appeared to drive (or be driven in their tour bus) from one rim view to the next, rather that get in amongst it all. This wasn’t a problem for us, but purely an observation.

After the first trails, we found a shady spot for a picnic lunch, and continued to drive down the park stopping off at viewpoints and then doing the easy Bristlecone Loop trail at the end. After that, we headed back towards Inspiration point for DH to get some sunset shots – the light wasn’t great however but we could see cloud cover would thin out eventually(gotta love those big skies out there – you can see for miles!). DH headed back up to the upper viewpoint with his tripod however by this time unfortunately, I was feeling quite weary – I hate to say it, but I think the altitude was getting to me – so I stayed further down. I still enjoyed the changing light though, and the viewpoint was pretty quiet so I could enjoy the peace as I soaked in the amazing amphitheatre view.

After having stopped by the VC quickly again (to buy our fridge magnet!), we headed into Tropic to check into our accommodation – the Bryce Valley Inn. I guess it’s part of a franchise called America’s Best Value Suites, but I had long since renamed that as America’s Best kept Secret (for no reason other than that was easier for me to remember!). The motel was as hoped for – clean, comfy bed, decent bathroom etc. There was a restaurant a few steps away too, which was ideal as we were tired so didn’t want to have to travel too far too eat (ie no more than about 10 paces...).
Now I love small town America (otherwise I wouldn’t keep coming back!), but Tropic, UT really was a small town. The only oddity being the proliferation of European tourists there. Clarke’s Restaurant was one of only 2 places in town, and as a result we had a wait of about 30 mins for a table. Not a bad wait really, but when you can’t get a drink at a bar to kill the time (this is Utah after all), and all there is to do is wander round the adjoining mini-mart, it can creep by. Luckily, I like wandering round mini-marts....

Our dinner was good value, filling, but nothing to write home about. As I said, this trip wasn’t about the food! Service was friendly, but DH & I were intrigued by our Russian waitress. Living in London, we have many Eastern European neighbours, but we never expected to encounter someone with a Slavic accent in Southern Utah! Signs that we really do live in a Global Village perhaps.

Next: Day 5 – Capitol Reef – What a gem!!!

Keep it up!!! Really enjoying revisiting the areas with you.

Thanks

JUST returned from (coincidentally) taking your exact same trip last week...can't wait to hear what you thought about Cap. Reef. Also,did you happen to stop by the Kiva Koffeehouse while on Scenic Rt. 12? What a find that was!

Am enjoying your report so much, quiUK, thank you. We two old Aussies did much the same trip this last April - but after the Mt Carmel road, we turned off onto the pretty Route 14 to Cedar City, and got caught in a snow storm. Talk about exciting! At first it was fun, then we had one set of tracks in the snow to follow from a previous car traveller , and then nothing but white out, and it was really scary. We couldn't turn back or stop, just had to keep going and hoping we'd get through. We had a Chevy Avio rental, no snow tyres, but the car was new. Anyway, we made it, through very heavy snow at the top near Cedar Breaks National Park turn off, and down the slippery other side into Cedar City, where it was still snowing. That day, it even snowed in Las Vegas! I was very proud of DH's driving. Looking back, it was an experience worth having once in your life, but it could have been a disaster.
A couple of days later, we were in T shirts at Capitol Reef. Springtime! We stayed in Torrey, and loved Capitol Reef, but Canyonlands is a favorite for the less touristy experience, and for stunning scenery, Arches.
Am looking forward to the rest of your story.

I am LOVING your trip report.
I agree that the views at Bryce are beyond belief. I hope you had a chance to witness a sunrise there...incredible!!

This is an outstanding report. Looking forward to the next installment.

Thanks everyone.

Donnawho - we passed it (I can picure it now!) but didn't stop. How silly of us - especially as I've since read so many great reviews of it, and given our obsession with coffee! Hmmm...maybe that can be my excuse to return to the area...!!

Carrabella - what an incredible experience you had!! And to think I was worried about driving the Moki dugway ina rental car. That was nothing compared to what you did! Am pleased you both made it out in one piece.

Schmerl - sadly we didn't get to see the sunrise at Bryce. In fact, it actually became a bit of a running joke throughout the trip that whenever we made it to an iconic sight, it was at the wrong time of day for optimum light (eg Delicate Arch in the morning rather than evening). Still this never lessened our enjoyment of it all!

Fabulous report. I am enjoying it very much. I just could not do Angel's Landing...glad you did! I love Zion and Bryce too.

Thanks Judyrem. I'm still not quite sure how I managed to do Angels Landing at all as I'm generally not good with heights. I think it was more a case of 'Right, well apparently it's one of the best views going, so I'm dammned if I'm not going to see it'! Looking back on the photos though, it seems madness that we even considered it!

Happened on your wonderfully descriptive tour adventures while looking for info on the national parks of the west. It's been an absolute joy to read of your adventures...I'm of the "armchair adventurer" variety, but never underestimate the pleasure derived vicariously. Thanks so much!!

This is a great read. Bryce is one of my favorite places, it's been years since I've been there. We road horseback down into the canyon. Those trails are quite narrow. Looking forward to more from you.

Thanks jkfrys and crefloors - glad you're enjoying it.

Sadly, after a week back in the real world, I have less & less time to write, but hope to be able to add more in the next few days. I'm still having withdrawal symptoms from the trip!

LOL and we're all suffering from
withdrawl from your trip report ;>)

It is a special effort that few
bother to make...get to it when
you can.

Your trip report has caused me to relapse. I am getting to relive our trip last year thru you. Thanks for reporting back.

MY

quiUK,
Having been to Zion and Arches, I look forward to hearing about Capitol Reef. I will be there next week and would love to hear what you did while there. Angels Landing is such a great experience, anything like that in Cap Reef?

Thanks everyone. Spirobulldog - we didn't do anything quite like Angels Landing in Capitol Reef, but there are still great hikes there where you are rewarded with excellent views. Loved the walking there!

Day 6:
After the previous night’s wait for a table at the restaurant next door to the motel, we anticipated the same again for breakfast in the morning, we woke early to be there for 7am when it opened – we had an exciting drive ahead of us, and didn’t want to leave too late. We were seated quickly, but the place soon filled up, and as we left there were people queuing out the door. A note to anyone staying in Tropic – Clarke’s Restaurant has a monopoly by virtue of being pretty much the only place in town to eat and gets busy!

We finally set off in Betsy at 8ish and carried on along Hwy 12 towards Escalante. Now I know it’s called a Scenic Byway and therefore the clue is in the name, but this was incredible. Tremendous views as far as the eye can see! There were plenty of stop offs along the way for us to soak it all in, and we stopped briefly at the Visitors Centre in Escalante to learn a bit more about the area (oh ok, and to use the loo, as we call it, or ‘restroom’ as you call it. Do you really rest in there?!).

Our journey continued without incident, until we reached a viewpoint somewhere near Boulder and pulled over to take some pictures. Now I owe you all an explanation. I gather that it is common practice (or used to be before the advent of in car DVD players, iPods, Nintendos etc) for American children to spend long road trips looking out for licence plates from other states. Well I may be 32 years old, but partake in this simple pastime too on each trip I have to the USofA – last year I managed a paltry 32 states. This year I was determined to do better, and given that we were visiting big tourist sites like the Grand Canyon, I was certain we could at least manage 48 of them.

And there, in the depths of Southern Utah, I spied an unfamiliar yellow plate. I tried to sidle up to it nonchalantly – ideally not to attract attention to myself (I’m always a bit worried that people might mistake my interest in their licence plate as criminal interest in their vehicle!). Alaska! I had renewed hope! If someone could drive their pick up truck all that way, perhaps Hawaii would be the only one we wouldn’t see? In fact, to cut a long story short, Hawaiians – stand up and be applauded – I saw 2 of your vehicles on our trip! Rhode Islanders, Vermontians (if that’s a word?), and anyone from DC – please make yourselves known and send me a picture of your licence plate. You were sorely missed out there in the Southwest this September.

Anyway, back to day 6. High on this latest triumph, we rolled into Capitol Reef. You’d think by now that we were getting used to awe inspiring formations of red rock? Well, no we weren’t. We’d seen a sneak peek of the Waterpocket Fold from on high on our drive down, but nothing could prepare us for the sight of it up close. The drive into Capitol Reef was astounding, and we head straight for the Visitors Centre so we could get some maps and work out what to explore first.

Now I owe Capitol Reef an apology. When I was planning our trip, I just really included it because it was in between Bryce and Moab and I thought it would be a good place to break up the drive. I knew next to nothing about it bar the fact that it is the least visited of Utah’s National Parks. As we had our picnic lunch there and planned what to do, it dawned on me that this was the first place we had been where we could experience not just the scenery and hiking, but there was actually a bit of history there too. The valley had been populated and cultivated in the past, and the park offered an insight into the human element of the area and what it had been like for Mormon settlers, and possibly even the Fremont Indians too. I had obviously underestimated this place, and as we were due to drive to Moab the following day, we really needed to plan our time carefully to get the most out of it!

We decided to do much of the hiking that day, and then an easy hike early the next morning followed by visit the historical sights before setting off. This was we thought, we can get as hot, sweaty and tired as we like, knowing we were only 10 miles or so away from a shower. The next day we would have an easier morning before setting off on the 3.5 hr drive.

But which hikes to do? There are few loop hikes at Capitol Reef, so be warned that in the guide, they show the one way distance only. We started off on the Fremont River trail, which was listed as ‘easy’. A bit of a misnomer really, as whilst categorised as easy, the blurb on it does say that after the first easy half mile, it becomes strenuous as it climbs sharply. This wasn’t a problem for us, and although it was hot and steep, the path was easy to follow and led up to some incredible views along the gorge of the Fremont River and eventually over Fruita. There was some rather worrying evidence of rockfalls however – and a particularly hairy moment when we noticed a giant boulder perched – nay teetering – high above the trail. It looked like if you sneezed it would come crashing down upon the unsuspecting hiker!

An enjoyable hike, and once back at the bottom, we decided to try the Cohab Canyon trail. This runs from Hwy 24 to the campground and you can tackle it from either point. We started from the Hwy, and parked at the Hickman Bridge trailhead (we would walk to the bridge the next day). The Cohab trail starts with a steep climb on a reasonably well defined path, but then the fun begins – the path ceases to exist and you follow stone cairns across slickrock and through sandy washes up a hidden canyon. I LOVED this hike! I loved the fact that you walk over a varied terrain – it’s rocky, sandy, craggy. I loved following the cairns - it was like a treasure hunt and we were looking for clues as sometimes the cairns were difficult to spot. I loved the silence. At one point, DH & I stopped, and realised we couldn’t hear a thing. No wind, no birds, no planes, no nothing. Our ears were ringing with the silence. I don’t know when we’ll next hear that again! And I loved the fact that we felt we had it to ourselves – we only ever saw a handful of other hikers on there (this was the same on all our Capitol Reef hikes). We climbed to an overlook of Fruita feeling pretty proud of ourselves as it had been hot and steep.

We turned back before descending to the campground, and walked back to another spur up to a lookout, and then made our way back to the car. We wanted to get to Sunset point and Goosenecks before the light faded, and we got some more terrific views and photos there.

Well, what a day (and we’d definitely earned our beers again!). We checked into the Sandstone Inn in Torrey where I had reserved a room (our cheapest of the trip), and again we were pleased with the standard of accommodation. The motel also had a restaurant on site and we showered and freshened up quickly as a tour bus was due to arrive for dinner soon and we were hungry and didn’t want to have to wait long. The on site restaurant there was fair, and our meal was filling and reasonably priced, if not gourmet cuisine. In retrospect, I realise there are more exciting dining options in Torrey (Cafe Diabolo or the Capitol Reef Cafe where we had breakfast for example), but that night we really just needed sustenance and pretty quickly!

So – a majorly successful day! Captiol Reef exceeded all expectations (I owe it an apology), we still had more to see there the next day, and then afterwards we’d be gallivanting amongst the Goblins on our way to Moab!

quiUK,

I'm so glad you loved the Cohab Canyon trail! Do you know how it got it's name? It's definitely one of my favorites at Capitol Reef. I still have a couple longer ones to hike there - The Frying Pan loop and Cassidy Arch.

Just loving your first timer's report! Do continue!

Dayle, I hope to hike Frying Pan/Cassidy Arch/Cohab all in one big loop next week. I'm taking my next door neighbor with me. he hasn't ever flown or been to a national park so should be fun.

QUK, I am anxious to hear more about the rest of your trip on into Arches, etc. Goblin Valley is on my list for next week as well.