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14 days and 1500 Miles later, Alaska Trip report!

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14 days and 1500 Miles later, Alaska Trip report!

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Old Jun 15th, 2008, 08:33 PM
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14 days and 1500 Miles later, Alaska Trip report!

First- thanks to all Fodorites who were so helpful in planning this trip. Could not have done it without your expert advice.
I will make this report simple- then feel free to ask questions, OK?
Background- couple, 50 years old, a little fit, think we are still in our 30's-optimists. No kids, 3 dogs.
We flew non-stop from Newark to Anchorage ( actually a tiny stop in Seattle), Continental, an excellent flight.
Rented a car from Hertz- got a Rav 4 for $565.00...Went thru Costco, it was a great deal. Drove 1546 miles, averaged 24 MPG- gas ran under $300.00.
Spent the first night in Girdwood at Alyeska- nice.
Ate at Double Musky, excellent just way too much food- share entrees! Breakfast at the Bakeshop- excellent.

Went to Exit Glacier on our way to Seward- did the mile loop hike, excellent. Between the Bear, the Moose, the Glacier right in front of you, close your eyes, breath, WOW! It was top notch. Loved it. Be sure you do the hike, a little strenuous, but well worth it.

Spent the next 2 nights at the Hotel Seward- on a buy one get one Northern Lights coupon. Hotel is being restored, the people are great. The room was lovely, clean, we really enjoyed. Great location, we walked everywhere.

Went on the Kenei Fjords Northwest Glacier trip, visited the Sea life center- loved our trip there. Loved the Raven bakery/gift store in town, loved the weird greek eatery.....

On to Homer, 4 nights at Wild Rose BNB in the Northern Exposure cabin- Loved it. Loved Homer, can not say enough good about this place- we simply loved it.

Went Bear viewing with Emerald Air. Once again- outstanding. I can not express how wonderful they are, and what an experience of a lifetime this was. You simply can not imagine such wonder.

On to Whittier and the ferry to Valdez. Loved the ferry, did not love the town of Valdez. Did laundry, ate good Chinese food, stayed at the best western ( you could do better). Valdez is about the water and the surrounding areas, the views, etc. Just the town is a bit uninspiring. But we met nice people, and had the worlds best breakfast at The Waterfront Cafe diagonal from the Best Western. The place was charming, the owner was great, and the food....OUTSTANDING.

On to Wrangell St Elias- Drove to Chitina and flew with Wrangell Air- once again a winning journey. Crystal clear- what a flight.
Stayed 2 nights at Kennicott Glacier Lodge- yes, another favorite. There is no chill out in the world like sitting on the lawn watching the glacier on a cool sunny day....and such a wonderful little gallery ( Fireweed) with the nicest owners in the world- spent 4 hours just chatting with them. Remember- no sales tax!

Flew out of the park, went to an excellent art gallery
in Chitina ( got the Where the Hell is Chitina pin), as well as a piece of art for our home- we were in many galleries and they were the only one representing several excellent Alaskan artists. A real good side trip.

On to Sheep Mountain. A lovely stop- once again great people, great food, just excellent.If you want to see lots ofl Sheep this is the spot.
Beware if walking their trails looking for wildlife- you just may find it! Yeah- the video of my husband running from the moose as it decides to stampede me is priceless.We call it the Blair Moose project. Yep-he left me all alone on that trail...remember, never run from Bear- ALWAYS run from Moose, especially ones with babies in tow. I survived, and it certainly makes a good story. But beware.

On to Denali- our only real long drive day- about 6 hours, but we throughly enjoyed it. Stopped at some log Swiss hotel along the road for lunch, Great soup, lousy burger.

Arrived at Denali and entered culture shock. Stayed at the Grand Denali on a buy one get one free, and were greated by about 500 people in the lobby. I had a complete nervous breakdown it was worse than Penn Station in NY at rush hour. Busses, children, chaos. Coming from our very tranquil experiences it was a real rude awakening. We got the worst room in the hotel- overlooking the buss stop in the parking lot, asked to please be moved and ended up in the room overlooking the tour luggage transfer station in the parking lot. Yeah- the help starts talking loudly and gunning engines at 4:45. Did I mention we are night owls? Not good.
The hotel is Ok, really nothing bad, do not fret if you are booked there, but do all you can to be on the park side- Beware the even room numbers, especially if using a coupon. I am sure we would have been perfectly happy on the park side, but it was really bad where we landed. Not staying there next time.

Went to cabin night on the coupon as well. Too many people for us- but the food was good, and at $59 for 2 of us a real bargain. Show was cute, would not repeat.

Found a great coffee house on the boardwalk- excellent expresso shakes, nice little business, ate breakfast there, nice.

Did the 9:15 ( remember night owls and the hotel personal finally shut up at 8:30 or so) 11 hour Wonder lake bus. Was very apprehensive, but it was OUTSTANDING. Saw 8 bear, 2 right next to our bus, Moose, Caribou, Wolf, Fox, Sheep, owls, Golden Eagle, Bald Eagle, a rich tundra with the coolest ground squirrels, a rich tapestry weaving the best Alaska has to offer. Simply wonderful. As a side note we were going to bail at Eilson, but we were having too good a day. And most of the best wildlife was after that point. Outstanding.
Be sure to visit the main visitor center as well- it is really well done, we enjoyed it very much.

On to Talkeetna. We drove into town, at lunch at the Roadhouse, yummy! Popped around town, checked in at the Talkeetna Alaska Lodge ( the poshest hotel of the trip). We were in the famous parking lot view once again, so we upgrades to the full Mountain view. As a note if we took the Mountain view online it was $100.00 more, but once in house it went down to $50.00. We gave up the king bed, but the view was so worth it when to Mountain came out at 11:00 Pm- the best view in the world. The Lodge is beautiful, but not Talkeetna like- so beware of the trade.

It was our last night so we had a one more special plan- we did the 2 hour flight with Talkeetna Air taxi with the glacier landing. It was phenomenal, excellent flight, excellent views, and communion with the Gods....
Ate snow, cried, excellent.

Ended with Dinner at Mountain High Pizza, and some of these great Alaska brews- very good. Listened to the climbers relive their summits in German.

Stayed up all night watching the most unbelievable sunset and sunrise, Ok, slept 3 hours- the off to town for some last minute shopping ( great jams) and shipping back home. Breakfast at the Road House- berry sourdough pancake and pepper bacon, excellent coffee.
Chatted with the locals for a while, the off to Anchorage for our 5:30 flight home.

This was not a vacation, it was a rich life experience. We thought we would enjoy, but we underestimated the impact this trip would have. I mean we travel, I am all over the world for work- we have been t some pretty great places, but Alaska blew it all away.

We learned that there is goodness, and richness, and caring, and beauty unlike that we have ever seen.

And it left an impact on our hearts, in our minds, and on our sould.


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Old Jun 15th, 2008, 08:52 PM
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sorry for the typos, my edits did not take.

In addition to other edits the last line should have been

And it left an impact on our hearts, in our minds, and on our souls.....
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Old Jun 16th, 2008, 04:20 AM
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GREAT trip report! Enjoyed your report about art galleries since so few people mention them. Definitely sounds like the trip of a life-time.
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Old Jun 16th, 2008, 05:20 AM
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great report, thanks so much. I have a few questions, as we are thinking of going on a similar trip this time next year.

you said: "The Lodge is beautiful, but not Talkeetna like- so beware of the trade."
I'm not sure I get this, what do you mean?

How long was the trip from Homer to Valdez, including ferry time? was the ferry interesting?

Tell me more about Kennicott, was it very rustic? was the food good?

And finally, if you had less time and had to drop say 2-3 days from your intinerary, what would you skip?? I know that's probably a tough question, but that's what I'm wrestling with...probably only have 10-12 days, and I want to cover many of the same places you did, so I'm curious what you think.

thanks again for the report, its really helpful!
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Old Jun 16th, 2008, 03:39 PM
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Very well done! Sounds like you guys did it all. Thanks for posting.
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Old Jun 16th, 2008, 07:12 PM
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"The Lodge is beautiful, but not Talkeetna like- so beware of the trade.” I’m not sure I get this, what do you mean?

The lodge is totally opposite of Talkeetna. The town is a little tiny village of free spirits, climbers, crafters, and colorful personalities. It is modest, laid back, and very real. To be honest all the tourists/groups descending on the little main street felt invasive to us. There are some great little cabins right in town, more modest places, which are more free spirit in nature.
The lodge is really nice, extremely nice, with unbelievable views. But is was a big corporate hotel, with gourmet dining, and not unfriendly, but not warm help…it felt, corporate. I am a corporate girl, and certainly not against such hotels. It just felt like we were going back to retreat from the colorful characters in town. No big deal, just our feeling.

How long was the trip from Homer to Valdez, including ferry time? Was the ferry interesting?

It was a little stressful, but needlessly. We left Homer at 6:15 to make the 10:30 tunnel opening, for a 12:15 ferry. We actually got to the tunnel at 9:15, went thru at 9:30, were waiting for the ferry (not much to do in Whittier except have a coffee and bagel) ferry left on time, and we were at the best western at 3:30. So 9 hours, but it did not seem long. We LOVED the ferry; it was very nice- we were totally impressed. We saw lots of Orcas, Sea Lions, etc, it was a great ride. We will plan a trip doing the inside passage totally on the ferries next year.

Tell me more about Kennicott, was it very rustic? Was the food good?

Kennicott was lovely. The owner is meticulous- it was spotless- downright pristine. The rooms were great, great bathroom, great lawn, and great staff. The food- we did not love. It was certainly OK, but it was not about food. The dinner was a bit boring with no choice (pork roast, cous cous, streamed veggies, bread pudding). But the breakfast was good. We carried adult beverage mixes and hung out on the porch with friends we made on t

And finally, if you had less time and had to drop say 2-3 days from your itinerary, what would you skip?? I know that's probably a tough question, but that's what I'm wrestling with...probably only have 10-12 days, and I want to cover many of the same places you did, so I'm curious what you think.

That would be tough- no way to do this in shorter time frame. Assuming you are flying into and out of Anchorage there are 2 choices based on our trip- I would either do Denali, Talkeetna, Homer, Seward, Exit glacier, Anchorage, OR, Girdwood, Homer, Seward, Valdez, Wrangell St Elias, Sheep Mountain, Anchorage.

You would basically give up either Denali, or Wrangell St Elias. They were both outstanding, for different reasons. Wrangell St Elias is rustic, mountainous, raw, totally laid back, hiking, bears, glaciers, history, and vast wilderness. Denali is expanse views, tundra, wildlife, busses, as raw as it is it is almost like a theme park- and I do not mean that badly- it is just like your head spins 360 degrees to take it all in. Any way you go you will not be disappointed.

What is the origin of China Cat?


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Old Jun 17th, 2008, 06:06 AM
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Wow, great trip report, Alaska is on our list of places to go, you've given me great ideas.

Thanks for taking the time to write it!
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Old Jun 17th, 2008, 06:38 AM
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marleyzoemom

thank you for the responses, especially about the itinerary question. You confirmed what I was mostly thinking...I should not eliminate Homer, and I can't really fit both Wrangell St Elias and Denali in a shorter time frame. I may have to work on trying to extend to a full 2 weeks but not sure that will be possible (we plan to do an inside passage cruise first).

"China Cat Sunflower" is the name of a Grateful Dead song that I like.
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Old Jun 17th, 2008, 08:23 AM
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Wonderful TR full of useful tips, thanks for posting!
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Old Jun 29th, 2008, 07:11 AM
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Hello marleyzoemom,

Just found your trip report. I haven't been on this site lately - kind of tied up lately. Sounds like you had a great time and enjoyed many of the same places I did, especially WSE. What have you got planned for the Inside Passage? I'm starting to put together that trip for 2009 also.
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Old Jun 29th, 2008, 07:33 AM
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Hi Central Pa!
Right now I am in China...but thinking of Kodiak, Homer next year, or a fly to Seattle, drive to BC, then on and off the marine highway thru the passage.....
HArd to say- only thing for sure is it is Alaska in 2009!

Thanks so much for all you help!

Lets chat about 2009!
Sandy
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Old Jun 30th, 2008, 04:06 PM
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marleyzoemom -- Are you in China for vacation or business? Just curious, I don't see you on the Asia board.

As you can probably tell from my screen name I was born in Shanghai and now live on the west coast with a DD in NJ. Go frequently to visit family in China and this year in Oct/Nov. Love to meet fellow Fodorites and have arranged GTGs in California, Manhattan and Shanghai.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 05:42 PM
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Hi Shanghainese,
Business- abt 8 weeks a year. Am going back in early November- perhaps we could meet? Always looking for a friend in Shanghai!
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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 06:03 AM
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Your trip report brought back fond memories of staying at Wild Rose B&B in Homer in 2000. Wonderful place with great people - and the view!

We did a driving tour in 2000 and now we're returning next year on a northbound cruise and then a few days in Denali. Did you get up to Healy at all? Torn between staying in Healy or south of the park at McKinley Creekside Cabins.

Again, thanks for a great report!
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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 03:16 PM
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marleyzoemom -- I will post the November GTG info on the Asia board probably in mid September for Shanghai, Xian, Kunming and Lijiang, we love to GTG with Fodorites and exchange experiences. I will come back to this thread to let you know when I post.

Where do you usually stay? Last November we had dinner at Lost Heaven in the french concession, expat Naggifag chose the elegant place with wonderful Yunan dishes, that's why we are going to Yunan this year.
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Old Jul 13th, 2008, 06:03 PM
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Hi Postal,
No, we never went North of Denali...so no opinion on Healy. It was a fantastic trip- home a month now and still able to go back mentally, a real feat considering the stress of New Jersey life!

Shanghainese, please do let me know re the gtg in Shanghai in November- I stay at the Shangri La in Pudong. Have been to Lost Heaven, but usually just do room service. We work very hard on those trips!
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Old Jul 30th, 2008, 01:31 PM
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Well, if you can stay at the Shangri La and do room service, it can't be too bad, just kidding! Can you get to Puxi on weeknights for dinner? Did you like Lost Heaven, or would like to suggest somewhere else in Puxi?
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Old Aug 24th, 2008, 02:31 PM
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Hi Shanghainese,
I am off to China earlier than I thought-
October 3- 14....does this coincide with you at all?
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Old Oct 15th, 2008, 03:23 PM
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Sorry I didn't come back earlier or else you could have checked out the October GTGs in China. We are not going till November, just posted available GTG dates/locations on the Asia/China board.

Not sure if we are going east before the end of the year, if you come west, the next GTG in San Francisco is 10/24 and there are several a year, mostly when out of town Fodorites come visit.
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Old Oct 21st, 2008, 05:14 PM
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Sounds like the trip I want to do next July! Do you have any idea how much the whole thing cost? Not trying to be nosy, but I am considering booking a trip with a company and they want 5300 per person for a similar trip. Their trip includes going up to Gates of the Arctic NP and Coldfoot, as well as Katmai for 2 nights. So I am trying to figure out if I should just book it all on my own.
Thanks for the great report and any info you can share.
Jody

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