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-   -   Volcanoes, Lakes, Patagonia & More (https://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/volcanoes-lakes-patagonia-and-more-1648955/)

thursdaysd Mar 8th, 2018 02:15 PM

Still following. Aside from the penguins, I wasn't that enthused about the cruise.

barefootbeach Mar 8th, 2018 06:12 PM

Thursdaysd, I have to agree. There was some beautiful scenery, but I wonder if the money would've been better spent flying to Easter Island.

mlgb Mar 8th, 2018 06:20 PM

Yes, medium size works for me!

barefootbeach Mar 9th, 2018 08:28 AM

Day 21: Perito Moreno Glacier

Eolo booked this day trip for us including a shared minibus of about 12 people, a guide, and park admission. There was a much more expensive private option you could also book. Eolo’s driver took us out to the main road, where the minibus was waiting for us. It was a tight fit with everyone who had come from El Calafate (that saved about 1/2 hour) but the guide aboard was entertaining and informative as we drove about 50 minutes to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, along very scenic Lago Argentino. We pulled over at a viewpoint for our first glimpse of this massive glacier spilling down from between two mountains into the lake.

After we entered Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, we first went out on an optional, hour long boat ride up to the Glacier. While it was a bit of a pain as it was very crowded with everyone trying to get photos of the glacier from the decks. the ride did give you a unique vantage point of being right in front of the glacier from water level. We could see tiny people walking on the ice, as treks are offered with crampons for those more agile than us.

After this, our guide showed us several recommended trails along the many metal catwalks that fronted the glacier and gave us a couple of hours to ramble on our own before we met again at a restaurant's parking These walks were my favorite as they offered many different viewpoints of the massive glacier as it abruptly dropped down over 200’ into the lake. We heard some calving but nothing major. The sun was shining and it was a beautiful day and the views of the glacier are stunning. Eolo had packed us an amazing lunch in a backpack so we enjoyed this from one of the benches along the catwalk. This is the second largest glacier in South America and the only one that’s not receding. The park does offer a cafeteria, gift shop, and a guide is not necessary. The Eolo driver was waiting for us as we returned…seamless.

barefootbeach Mar 9th, 2018 08:57 AM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b45940f57.jpeg

First glimpse of the Glacier when entering Park
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a6b2de5e.jpeg

Boarding the boat to the glacier
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af90fe545.jpeg

View of glacier from boat
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b84627805.jpeg

Close up of ice formations
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a33514e29.jpeg

See the tiny people walking on the glacier
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70223bc28.jpeg

Viewing glacier from catwalks shows it's massiveness
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9507cdacb.jpeg

Perspective on height of glacier

barefootbeach Mar 9th, 2018 10:46 AM

Day 21: El Calafate/Eolo Hotel
Today we could have gone on excursions to visit other glaciers, but we wanted to explore the hotel and surrounding area so we booked an afternoon walk with guide to a flamingo lake on the property, included with daily rate. Unfortunately, we ended up canceling as both of us had caught some virus, probably from the cruise ship, that left us with sore throats and feeling lousy.

But before we realized how sick we were, we had a taxi take us into the town of El Calafate to do some shopping. Spent about 2 hours in this cute town but didn’t really find much to buy except a jar of Calafate jam made from the local fruit…also great as a Calafate Sour.

I did have a wonderful massage later and would’ve gone into the womens’ sauna but saw a robed man rushing out of the sauna followed by his female companion. A little “hanky panky” going on? Decided to give it a miss.

Great service here…desk staffer provided me with our boarding passes before being asked and dining staff provided us with several pots of tea with lemon & honey for our throats.

Next: Buenos Aires, final stop

barefootbeach Mar 9th, 2018 10:49 AM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33c0b69e0.jpeg

The open vistas at Eolo Hotel.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ec946883.jpeg

thursdaysd Mar 9th, 2018 11:07 AM

Loved the glaciers - I did do a second day on a boat for more glaciers.

barefootbeach Mar 9th, 2018 01:35 PM

and were you happy with second day? I had figured we'd seen enough with the cruise ones also.

thursdaysd Mar 9th, 2018 01:56 PM

Well, I hadn't done a cruise, and I was mesmerized by the colors, so I was very happy with the second day.

barefootbeach Mar 10th, 2018 07:29 AM

Day 22-23: Buenos Aires
Luckily I had moved up our airport transfer time from that recommended by Eolo because we were at the end of a very long check in line for Argentina Aerolineas and would’ve missed our flight. The domestic flights made us stand for a very long time before boarding and as I had a slight fever, this was agony. DH had dropped his glasses in the car, called the hotel, and the transfer driver came back and gave them to him while we were waiting in line….great service! Forgot to mention this about El Calafate, their ATM machines are frequently out of money so it's recommended that you bring money with you. And, we had the same problem in Buenos Aires.

We checked into the Mine Hotel, located in the Palermo Soho area, a residential area filled with restaurants and shops but not many tourist attractions. On a previous trip to BA about 20 years ago, we’d stayed in the Recoleta area and saw all the major sights so I just wanted to walk around and do a little shopping.

The hotel is contemporary and our room was pretty basic, small but comfortable with a view to the inside courtyard garden and swimming pool. Since I wasn’t feeling great, we just walked to a pizza place and back to bed.

The next morning I had a 102 fever and slept outside by the pool for awhile but the mosquitos were bothersome so took to my bed. Finally, by mid afternoon it broke, and we took a taxi to MACBA, Museum of Contemporary Art. The building was as interesting as the displays. From there we walked through the Japanese Gardens and back to the hotel. Tonight we ate close by at an excellent steak restaurant, La Cabrera.

Breakfast was excellent and DH tried mate here, after buying a stainless steel mate straw in El Calafate. It tasted like a very bitter tea and we both gave it a thumbs down.

Since it was Sunday, the markets beckoned. We took a taxi to the better quality one outside the Recoleta Cemetery and walked around the arty stands gratefully shaded by huge trees since it was very hot and sunny.

We ate lunch at Cafe Tortoni, a historic cafe nearby, where our lunch was rudely interrupted by an email saying our flight that night was cancelled. We ended up going back to our hotel so that the excellent, English speaking staff could help communicate with Latam and all was sorted out. The staff there was extremely helpful.

It was unfortunate that I’d been so sick Saturday because it looked like there was some good shopping to be had in the neighborhood but all shops are closed on Sundays. So, we grabbed another taxi to the San Telmo market area…this one features antiques but it’s HUGE! Went on for blocks and blocks. It seems like all of Buenos Aires was out hitting these markets.

We ate at an excellent, casual spot right next door to the Mine Hotel, Ninina before reclaiming our luggage, changing for the flight, and taking the transfer Mine arranged to the airport for our midnight flight back to Miami.

I hope this has been helpful to those planning your trip to these beautiful countries. We were in awe of the amazing scenery, enjoyed the tasty cuisine, and enjoyed meeting the very agreeable and helpful people we encountered along the way.

barefootbeach Mar 10th, 2018 07:31 AM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...016e5da0f6.jpg

Giant rubber trees in Recoleta.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6125e5758.jpg

Cultural center in Recoleta.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a81d96873a.jpg

Church in San Telmo
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b29632d304.jpg

San Telmo market

barefootbeach Mar 12th, 2018 09:47 AM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef28efa1c.jpeg

Forgot to show what a Calafate berry looks like..used in jam, Calafate Sours, ice cream and other desserts...this is from Los Glaciares National Park.

thursdaysd Mar 12th, 2018 10:06 AM

Thanks for the TR! Brought back some good memories.

barefootbeach Mar 12th, 2018 10:54 AM

And memories are why we travel.

barefootbeach Mar 22nd, 2018 09:10 AM

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28cae4b63.jpeg

Sunset at Lago Villarica
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e694b3544.jpeg

Fuchsia at Termes Geometricas
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a83da07e9.jpeg

Vibrant flowers in Puerto Varas
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12415f3bd.jpeg

Flowers at Lago Santo Todos
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b9d00758.jpeg

An abundance of Hydrangeas in Pucon

barefootbeach Nov 17th, 2020 03:28 AM

Ahh...those were the days when we were able to travel and our biggest concern was which restaurant to eat at.
so many happy memories from this trip to Chile!

Chile_Traveller Dec 8th, 2020 08:29 AM

Yes seems this are the memories from the days we were able to travel! ;-)
We did not a single holiday trip for almost 2 years now.

Thinking about planning the next trip to Chile already...
Especially Torres del Paine i miss and my best
Friends the Vicunas and Guanacos i miss.



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