Trip report: great first trip to Ecuador!
Dec 11th, 2008, 04:39 PM
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Trip report: great first trip to Ecuador!
I just returned on Sunday from a great nine-day trip to Ecuador, my first to that country and my first to South America. I traveled with my cousin; we are two 30-something women from Chicago with intermediate- level Spanish who've previously spent a week each studying in Honduras and Costa Rica. It was a great experience, and I'll try to hit all the main points below, but feel free to ask specific questions if I miss anything! (Excuse my cross-post on tripadvisor.)
The School
We studied for a week at Academia Latinoamericana and I can't say enough good things about the classes, teachers, facilities, activities program, and homestay. It was well-organized, the teachers were top-notch, and it was in a lovely colonial home near Parque Carolina. Our homestay was with a widowed middle-aged woman who was a great cook, was patient with our Spanish, and had a comfortable home.
Quito Activities
We did a number of activities with our teachers from the school (part of the program), including the Old Town (saw President Correa and the changing of the guards, it was a festival week which is why he was there); the quito museum; several monasteries; the Teleferiqo; the artisan market in the Mariscal. We enjoyed all of it but were ready to head out of town at the end of the week, and did a great day trip (below).
Outside Quito Activities
For $80/each, the school arranged a day trip to Hacienda Porvenir near Cotopaxi volcano. It was one of the highlights of the trip! It was a scenic drive (with a very rough road at the end) leading to a pleasant hacienda where we were greeted with canelazos (a hot drink with juice/cane liquor) and empanadas before suiting up in "chagra" (Andean cowboy) gear: wooly leather chaps and a huge woolen poncho. We rode to an altitude of 4,000 meters, passing verdant valleys and packs of wild bulls. It was gorgeous. The riding was sometimes a bit challenging, though the horses are a special kind whose coats and hooves are specially adapted to the cold, steep environment of the paramo. We returned to the hacienda for a fabulous meal (chuletas and llapingachos, potato and cheese balls). We were supposed to hike, but it was pouring rain and my head was killing me (altitude), so we took it easy by the fireplace and then headed back to Quito.
Quito Hotel
Our first night in Quito we stayed at Hotel Los Alpes, which I've reviewed on tripadvisor. In brief, it was comfortable, quiet, safe, and a pleasant place to spend our first night. We liked our airport pickup driver and arranged for him to drive us to Otavalo the next day, and then pick us up on Sunday. The breakfast was fine, the staff friendly.
Otavalo Hotel
We spent one night at Hostal Dona Esther, which I've also reviewed on tripadvisor. It was very clean, beds were surprisingly comfy (the good hot water also was a surprise), and we had a fabulous breakfast at the restaurant (extra charge, but reasonable). We had an OK dinner at Mi Otavalito in town, but wished we'd eated at the restaurant connected to the hotel. The staff was very helpful and watched our bags for several hours on Sat (before check-in) and on Sun (after check out).It felt safe and we were pleased with the value.
Otavalo Activities
The market was fun, though a bit touristy and kind of overwhelming (you just let your gaze linger a moment on an item and you get "a su orden" and a lot of attention from vendors.) We enjoyed wandering around and made a few purchases. The food market (with frying whole tilapia and giant roasted whole pigs) was amazingly fun. But the undisputed highlight of our time in Otavalo was a hike around Lago Cuicocha. We just walked into Runa Tupari agency (which I read about online and the hotel recommended) and arranged the trip the day before. It was $25/each for a driver, guide (who spoke Spanish with us), lunch in Cotocachi, and the 3-4 hour hike. It was a challenge in spots because we were still getting used the altitude, but it was absolutely beautiful.
Altitude
I felt the effects during our first 48 hours; it was mostly a mild headache and fatigue, and not sleeping very well. It went away until we went to hacienda porvenir, which is at 3,500 or so meters, and rode horses up to 4,000 meters. I definitely felt unwell after 3-4 hours up there, but my cousin was just fine. I would consider diamox for a return trip because the hiking in particular was a challenge at this altitude, and I wouldn't want to miss out.
Safety
There's been a lot of talk on this forum about safety, and I was very wary heading into Quito. The school gave us tips that we followed (only licensed taxis, don't walk after 7 or 8 at night, don't carry more than $10 or $20 with you, only carry a copy of your passport--not the real thing, keep your backup in front of you on public transit and in the mariscal and old town, etc). We didn't go out late or drink too much, so we had our wits about us, and we were usually in a group of 2 or 3 women at a time. We lived in a neighborhood that seemed residential and pretty quiet (near Parque Carolina), and the building had a doorman and pretty solid security (more than in Chicago), so we felt fine there. Truly, I never had a moment where I felt any less safe than I do in Chicago, though I take similar precautions here. I don't know if we were just lucky, or if our nerdy schedule of classes, excursions, a drink/snack, dinner with the family, and then homework kept us safe.
The people were generally friendly, patient with our Spanish, and we found the city easy to navigate. We wish we had more time to explore beyond Quito, but we'll have to save that for next time. Thanks to everyone on the forum for sharing their tips and experience!
The School
We studied for a week at Academia Latinoamericana and I can't say enough good things about the classes, teachers, facilities, activities program, and homestay. It was well-organized, the teachers were top-notch, and it was in a lovely colonial home near Parque Carolina. Our homestay was with a widowed middle-aged woman who was a great cook, was patient with our Spanish, and had a comfortable home.
Quito Activities
We did a number of activities with our teachers from the school (part of the program), including the Old Town (saw President Correa and the changing of the guards, it was a festival week which is why he was there); the quito museum; several monasteries; the Teleferiqo; the artisan market in the Mariscal. We enjoyed all of it but were ready to head out of town at the end of the week, and did a great day trip (below).
Outside Quito Activities
For $80/each, the school arranged a day trip to Hacienda Porvenir near Cotopaxi volcano. It was one of the highlights of the trip! It was a scenic drive (with a very rough road at the end) leading to a pleasant hacienda where we were greeted with canelazos (a hot drink with juice/cane liquor) and empanadas before suiting up in "chagra" (Andean cowboy) gear: wooly leather chaps and a huge woolen poncho. We rode to an altitude of 4,000 meters, passing verdant valleys and packs of wild bulls. It was gorgeous. The riding was sometimes a bit challenging, though the horses are a special kind whose coats and hooves are specially adapted to the cold, steep environment of the paramo. We returned to the hacienda for a fabulous meal (chuletas and llapingachos, potato and cheese balls). We were supposed to hike, but it was pouring rain and my head was killing me (altitude), so we took it easy by the fireplace and then headed back to Quito.
Quito Hotel
Our first night in Quito we stayed at Hotel Los Alpes, which I've reviewed on tripadvisor. In brief, it was comfortable, quiet, safe, and a pleasant place to spend our first night. We liked our airport pickup driver and arranged for him to drive us to Otavalo the next day, and then pick us up on Sunday. The breakfast was fine, the staff friendly.
Otavalo Hotel
We spent one night at Hostal Dona Esther, which I've also reviewed on tripadvisor. It was very clean, beds were surprisingly comfy (the good hot water also was a surprise), and we had a fabulous breakfast at the restaurant (extra charge, but reasonable). We had an OK dinner at Mi Otavalito in town, but wished we'd eated at the restaurant connected to the hotel. The staff was very helpful and watched our bags for several hours on Sat (before check-in) and on Sun (after check out).It felt safe and we were pleased with the value.
Otavalo Activities
The market was fun, though a bit touristy and kind of overwhelming (you just let your gaze linger a moment on an item and you get "a su orden" and a lot of attention from vendors.) We enjoyed wandering around and made a few purchases. The food market (with frying whole tilapia and giant roasted whole pigs) was amazingly fun. But the undisputed highlight of our time in Otavalo was a hike around Lago Cuicocha. We just walked into Runa Tupari agency (which I read about online and the hotel recommended) and arranged the trip the day before. It was $25/each for a driver, guide (who spoke Spanish with us), lunch in Cotocachi, and the 3-4 hour hike. It was a challenge in spots because we were still getting used the altitude, but it was absolutely beautiful.
Altitude
I felt the effects during our first 48 hours; it was mostly a mild headache and fatigue, and not sleeping very well. It went away until we went to hacienda porvenir, which is at 3,500 or so meters, and rode horses up to 4,000 meters. I definitely felt unwell after 3-4 hours up there, but my cousin was just fine. I would consider diamox for a return trip because the hiking in particular was a challenge at this altitude, and I wouldn't want to miss out.
Safety
There's been a lot of talk on this forum about safety, and I was very wary heading into Quito. The school gave us tips that we followed (only licensed taxis, don't walk after 7 or 8 at night, don't carry more than $10 or $20 with you, only carry a copy of your passport--not the real thing, keep your backup in front of you on public transit and in the mariscal and old town, etc). We didn't go out late or drink too much, so we had our wits about us, and we were usually in a group of 2 or 3 women at a time. We lived in a neighborhood that seemed residential and pretty quiet (near Parque Carolina), and the building had a doorman and pretty solid security (more than in Chicago), so we felt fine there. Truly, I never had a moment where I felt any less safe than I do in Chicago, though I take similar precautions here. I don't know if we were just lucky, or if our nerdy schedule of classes, excursions, a drink/snack, dinner with the family, and then homework kept us safe.
The people were generally friendly, patient with our Spanish, and we found the city easy to navigate. We wish we had more time to explore beyond Quito, but we'll have to save that for next time. Thanks to everyone on the forum for sharing their tips and experience!
Feb 25th, 2009, 07:33 PM
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I am going to the same program in May for one month. A friend alarmed me about the security and crime in Quito (he is from Venezuela). He warned me about the anti American sentiment and the high rate of theft.
I will be doing a homestay and will travel to and from the school alone. Do you recommend that I always use a taxi? Also, It sounds like I should not go out at night. The State Department gives warnings about crime in the tourist area where many of the bars and restaurants are located.
What about the water and food. Do you have any tips on avoiding food born illness?
Did you see any evidence of this?
I will be doing a homestay and will travel to and from the school alone. Do you recommend that I always use a taxi? Also, It sounds like I should not go out at night. The State Department gives warnings about crime in the tourist area where many of the bars and restaurants are located.
What about the water and food. Do you have any tips on avoiding food born illness?
Did you see any evidence of this?
Feb 25th, 2009, 07:55 PM
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Milgreek-I think it is odd that someone from Venzeuela would be warning people about Anti-American sentiment in Ecuador. I have a family member that just returned from CCS and they said everyone there warned them about crime. Anyway, Quito is a city to follow precaution in. Your question about taking a taxi to and from school depends on where you live, where is school, etc. I would take the advice of the school. I was in Quito and walked 22 blocks everyday to school. I lived in a middle class neighborhood. However, at night, it is recommended to always take taxis. Tourist areas tend to be more targeted with petty theft, ie. pickpockets.
My school asked me not to do the afternoon walking tours with a backpack because it signifies you might have something in it i.e. camera, money, passport. Just keep your stuff in your pockets. Again, I would take the advice of your particular school.
I love Quito,and I love walking the streets there, but I always followed the advice of the school. I always err on the side of caution in Latin America like you would in Europe, Asia or anyplace else.
My school asked me not to do the afternoon walking tours with a backpack because it signifies you might have something in it i.e. camera, money, passport. Just keep your stuff in your pockets. Again, I would take the advice of your particular school.
I love Quito,and I love walking the streets there, but I always followed the advice of the school. I always err on the side of caution in Latin America like you would in Europe, Asia or anyplace else.
Feb 26th, 2009, 08:27 AM
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Thanks for the trip report! I LOVE Ecuador!
I just spent 6 weeks in Ecuador and I didn't notice any anti-American sentiment at all. People were VERY friendly.
You do have to watch your back. I am a solo female traveller and I walked a lot during the day but at night, always took a cab, didn't carry a purse or camera and never carried more than $20 and I separated that by putting $20 in my bra and $20 in my front pocket.
I really enjoyed Quito and will visit again some day soon!
I just spent 6 weeks in Ecuador and I didn't notice any anti-American sentiment at all. People were VERY friendly.
You do have to watch your back. I am a solo female traveller and I walked a lot during the day but at night, always took a cab, didn't carry a purse or camera and never carried more than $20 and I separated that by putting $20 in my bra and $20 in my front pocket.
I really enjoyed Quito and will visit again some day soon!
Mar 3rd, 2009, 06:19 PM
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Wow, I just typed up a LONG reply and ran into a technical problem when I pushed submit. I'll try again & hope it sticks this time!
Let me start by saying that I was concerned about safety before going to Quito--my sister-in-law went to the same school about five years before I did and was mugged, and reading the state dept advisories is enough to send anyone into panic. But I decided that visiting with a homestay family and school was a great way to be in touch with local folks (who tend to have great info on what's safe/not) and to have people to keep an eye out for you. In the end, I really felt like we had a great experience and was glad we went.
I didn't experience any anti-American sentiment, didn't notice any anti-American grafitti or anything like that. Fellow students (mostly Europeans), teachers, and the family at our homestay were all very nice. In general, everyone we dealt with (museum guides, hiking guides, people selling the transit tokens, people at the drugstore and mega maxi store) were all polite and patient with our Spanish to boot!
Regarding how to get to school, the family should take you on the first day and then you can get the lay of the land: how long it takes, how much walking, how you feel on the transit. Our host took us via ecovia (public transit bus type thing, but on a track, someone else can descibe it better than me) but we ended up walking because we are big walkers and it only took 10 minutes more to walk. Our paths converged with other students in the neighborhood, so you may find yourself commuting with another student.
You'll probably also encounter other solo or groups of students to hang out with, which will make going out easy. I'd advise taking a radio taxi home if you're out late/on your own, but I wouldn't not go out because of warnings. I think the most important thing is to keep your wits about you--watch how much you drink, make sure you're aware of your surroundings, but have a good time.
Food can be tricky--I know people who eat everything (street food, raw veggies, the water) and are fine. I'm sensitive even at home (I have a stomach problem) so I'm cautious. My general rule is bottled water, no salad, no juice outside of the homestay. My rationale is that my trips are short--a week or two--and being sick would take too much time out of that. I was fine in Ecuador, but my cousin was sick, as were a couple fellow students. We brought Cipro (got it from our travel clinic) and immodium and pepto tablets, all of which we used at one point or another.
I hope this helps a little; I'm happy to answer more questions!
Melissa
Let me start by saying that I was concerned about safety before going to Quito--my sister-in-law went to the same school about five years before I did and was mugged, and reading the state dept advisories is enough to send anyone into panic. But I decided that visiting with a homestay family and school was a great way to be in touch with local folks (who tend to have great info on what's safe/not) and to have people to keep an eye out for you. In the end, I really felt like we had a great experience and was glad we went.
I didn't experience any anti-American sentiment, didn't notice any anti-American grafitti or anything like that. Fellow students (mostly Europeans), teachers, and the family at our homestay were all very nice. In general, everyone we dealt with (museum guides, hiking guides, people selling the transit tokens, people at the drugstore and mega maxi store) were all polite and patient with our Spanish to boot!
Regarding how to get to school, the family should take you on the first day and then you can get the lay of the land: how long it takes, how much walking, how you feel on the transit. Our host took us via ecovia (public transit bus type thing, but on a track, someone else can descibe it better than me) but we ended up walking because we are big walkers and it only took 10 minutes more to walk. Our paths converged with other students in the neighborhood, so you may find yourself commuting with another student.
You'll probably also encounter other solo or groups of students to hang out with, which will make going out easy. I'd advise taking a radio taxi home if you're out late/on your own, but I wouldn't not go out because of warnings. I think the most important thing is to keep your wits about you--watch how much you drink, make sure you're aware of your surroundings, but have a good time.
Food can be tricky--I know people who eat everything (street food, raw veggies, the water) and are fine. I'm sensitive even at home (I have a stomach problem) so I'm cautious. My general rule is bottled water, no salad, no juice outside of the homestay. My rationale is that my trips are short--a week or two--and being sick would take too much time out of that. I was fine in Ecuador, but my cousin was sick, as were a couple fellow students. We brought Cipro (got it from our travel clinic) and immodium and pepto tablets, all of which we used at one point or another.
I hope this helps a little; I'm happy to answer more questions!
Melissa
