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-   -   Sacred Valley, MP, Cusco. Am I missing anything you would recommend? (https://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/sacred-valley-mp-cusco-am-i-missing-anything-you-would-recommend-871607/)

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 07:32 AM

Sacred Valley, MP, Cusco. Am I missing anything you would recommend?
 
Hi All, Boston Harbor here. I had an accident with concussion just a week before my planned trip to MP last spring and had to reschedule. So, now I am headed to MP/Sacred Valley from April 1-9. Via train, not the trail ; ) Based on reviews here, I am using www.peruforless.com to plan the trip. They have been great. I can still make changes, so I'm looking for any additional suggestions. I have never been to MP. I have built my trip based on trip reports that you have posted.

I think I have most things covered, but I'm looking for off the beaten path stuff. I'm traveling with my best friend. We are two active women who have traveled the world together. I am hoping that the altitude isn't going to affect us too badly, but taking diamox just in case. (I have used it before for other high altitude activity) Those of you who know me from the Asia board know that I am an avid photographer--so unique opportunities for photography suggestions would be particularly welcomed.

Here is the plan so far:

<b>Sacred Valley: three days, two nights,</b> Casa Andina Private Collection Sacred Valley. <b>Activities: </b>Pisac Markets, Pisac ruins, Maras & Moray, Ollantaytambo. I have heard there is a 4 Wheeled drive tour one can take to communities that can't be reached via standard vechicles. Anyone ever do this? Worth it?

<b>MP: Two nights: </b> Inkaterra machu picchu (Yes, I know it is expensive, but I'm going to be at MP on my birthday and I'm splurging : ) I will try to climb Huayna Picchu or Huchuypicchu (which might be more my style). Do you need to get a pass for both mountrains or just Huayna Picchu? I know you need to get there by 6 AM or earlier to get one of the 400 passes : (

I have heard the Expedition (old backpacker train) has been renovated and have better windows now. Anyone been on the Expedition? The times are better for me on the Expedition than the Vistadome.

<b>Cusco: Three days, three nights: </b>Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco or Aranwa Cusco. <b> Activies </b>In addition to the extensive city wandering, we will visit Sacsayhuaman, Q'enko, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay.

What I am looking for are things you might have done that were surprising, gorgeous, interesting, wonderful and that I might not find in my travel guides.

Also, is there anything along the way from the airport in Cusco to our hotel in the Sacred Valley where we should stop? We are in the same time zone and will be landing at 9:30 AM so we should be fine that morning.

Many thanks in advance! Your reports/photos have been great. Happy New Year!

mlgb Jan 2nd, 2011 09:22 AM

No Chinchero?

mlgb Jan 2nd, 2011 09:27 AM

Oh be sure to visit the Chicha lady (Descanso Bar).

Personally I was happy I stayed in Ollantaytambo rather than one of the luxury resorts in the SV, there are more photo ops and the light on the ruins in the PM is wonderful. So even if you don't stay there I recommend a late afternoon excursion to Olly.

The fair trade textile store in Olly has a description of their weaving tour but I have not been.
http://www.awamaki.org/quechua-community-visits

If you can walk at all I recommend hiking down from the top of Pisac ruins.

moneyburns Jan 2nd, 2011 09:40 AM

I don't have any surprises to add but I do want to tell you we stayed at Inkaterra (MP) and loved it. Inkaterra can fill you in on the passes - are they sending a guide with you?

We thought the Sacred Valley one of the most beautiful areas we've ever seen and wished we had added an extra night there instead of Cusco. We liked the architecture of Cusco quite a bit, but the Sacred Valley was magical. Be sure to have your driver prepared to stop for many photo ops; the people are also gorgeous, but ask to take their pics, or be with a guide who may know some personally. I feel it is very intimate to take pics and always asked their permission (if in close range) and gave a few coins to the children.

We went to a festival in Ollantaytambo that a local guide we met at the ruins took us .It was amazing - the costumes, the locals in the square- all the singing and dancing while in VERY ELABORATE costumes. I will never forget the friendliness and beauty of Peru. We were even invited to a local's party that night, and it was "different "- but we were welcomed as neighbors!
so ck. to see if any are in the area when you are there. Your Peru ta's should know or your lodging's managers.

We saw many sad tourists looking out of buses wishing they were at the festival. It was the highlight of our day at Olly and we loved that particular town, along with the history as explained by our local guide.

Take a walk through the Monasterio hotel in Cusco - it was once a monastery (hence the name) quite lovely to photograph esp the chapel, the architecture etc.

Lucky you - it is a fabulous trip, so enjoy and be careful of the altitude!
If I were to go back I'd go on a horseback ride in Olly area - many off the beaten path sights to be seen and photographed.

Have fun!

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 10:13 AM

Ah, thanks mlgb. Yes, Chinchero is now on the list. You stayed in Olly? I was also thinking that it would be more fun to be in a place where you can walk out and be in Olly or another village/town. Where did you stay?

Walking down from the Pisac ruins--perfect. I love to walk and take photos, so this sounds perfect. That fair trade textile store sounds great. My friend loves to see how things are made, so thanks for the link.

MoneyBurns, I hope we are as lucky as you and be dropped into the middle of a festival. We are on our own so can be as flexible as we need to be. Festivals can be so wonderful all over the world. I'm glad you loved Inkaterra--it is an extravagence, but it is my birthday after all (I am <i>so</i> milking my birthday on this trip, including LAN business class on the way down : )

Lastly, I will make sure to go to the Monasterio when in Cusco.

Anyone have experience with the Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco versus Aranwa Cusco? The price isn't that much difference. Aranwa is purportely five star.

Thanks so much!

m_bran Jan 2nd, 2011 12:48 PM

BostonHarbor –

Hello from the Asia board...
Looks like you have a wonderful trip planned.

In case you haven’t come across this CN Traveler article, I wanted to share this because it proved to be the inspiration for my trip in 2009:

Iconic Itineraries: Peru
http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/.../10518?all=yes

It has some great suggestions – the one day trail hike to MP from the train and the (already suggested) walk down from the ruins at Pisac.

The unexpected highlight of my trip was the climb to the top of HP. It is weather dependent so try it your first morning in case you need to postpone.

You and your camera will love the SV!

And if you don’t already have it, The Machu Picchu Guidebook by Ruth Wright & Dr. Zegarra is a great resource.

Happy Birthday & happy trails.

mlgb Jan 2nd, 2011 01:10 PM

I stayed at the El Albergue Hotel in Olly. Recommend and I also liked the food at the restaurant. Visiting Pisac was easier from Cusco, since it's in a slightly different direction.

Hotel Pakaritampu also gets good recommendations for lodging in Olly (and is perhaps slightly more upscale) although mixed reviews on the restaurant.

mlgb Jan 2nd, 2011 01:35 PM

BTW it's a few years old so I don't know if you have seen eenusa's post on Fodors (you can search under her member name) and links to her blog and great photos from Peru. Here is a starting link

http://2totravel.blogspot.com/2009_04_01_archive.html

shelleyk Jan 2nd, 2011 01:44 PM

Are you spending any time in Lima? We loved the historical, central district and the coastal area. Spent 2 full days there before doing the Sacred Valley, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca part of the trip. To me, Lima was as interesting and photographic as the other parts of the trip.

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 02:24 PM

Hi SheeleyK. I'm not spending any time in Lima. I decided if I only had 7 days, I should focus on MP and the Sacred Valley. Maybe next time : )

Mlgb--thanks so much for the link to eenusa's blog/photos, they are great. I'm going to talk with Peruforless tomorrow and see if we can get a place in Olly. I would really like to be independent and not rely on taxi's/drivers. I have heard good thing about Htel Pakaritampu. Is it in walking distance of the town?

Thanks again everyone. Fodors rocks.

Treepol Jan 2nd, 2011 02:29 PM

BostonHarbour,

I'd recommend the Hotel Pakaratimpu in Ollantaytambo. The restaurant was OK. We spent a couple of hours just wandering around the town, exploring the residential areas along the cobblestone paths.

Awana Kancha may be worth a visit. Sure, its touristy but you get to see alpacas, llamas and guanacos at close quarters and the handcrafts were very good quality and reasonable priced. They were alos very light to pack for the homeward flight as I bought textiles, mostly alpaca products and silver jewellery.

I'd second Chinchero for a visit, we stopped on a non-market day and wandered around the very quiet town and through the main church.

You didn't ask, but I'd also recommed a trip into the cloudforest from Cusco, although this needs a couple of nights. We travelled from Cusco to Cock of the Rock Lodge for 2 nights and had a great time http://www.tropicalnaturetravel.com/..._the_rock.html. Some photos from out Peru trip last August, http://picasaweb.google.com/Treepol/...aPeruInclManu#

Sounds like you will have a great trip,

Pol

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 03:17 PM

I'm definately switching to Hotel Pakaratimpu in Ollantaytabo. I have friends (professional photographers) who took stunning llama pictures at Awana Kancha. I'm serisouly not touting them; you can see their entire book free online. It is worth a few minute--simply glorious photography. The llamas at Awana Kancha are simply too fabulous for words. http://www.blurb.com/books/1140203

Thanks so much Treepol for the link to you photos. I am so excited to being going on this trip!

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 03:30 PM

Oh, and M_bran, I do have The Machu Picchu Guidebook by Ruth Wright & Dr. Zegarra. I can't put it down. And, thanks for the concierge.com itinerary. I have printed it off.

OK, ready to climb into bed and read : )

moneyburns Jan 2nd, 2011 04:05 PM

Boston, the book is gorgeous; captured everything I remember about Peru...magical. Did they make the book for themselves or are they selling it; reason I ask is I lost all my photos of our 2 wk trip and this was so awesome.
Thanks; have a wonderful trip! I love Peru
MB

mlgb Jan 2nd, 2011 04:30 PM

After you fall in love with Peru, come back and visit Lima, Iquitos and the "Egypt of Peru", (and I guess Arequipa is also worthwhile).

Peru is really one of the most fabulous places for photography that I've ever visited.

BostonHarbor Jan 2nd, 2011 04:53 PM

Moneyburns, they sell the book. I think most of the books that people make on blurb are for sale. I bought it. It is a coffee table type book and stunning. here is the page where you can buy it. It isn't cheap, but I think it is worth every penny. http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/1140203

mlgb: I can't wait to photograph the places and people of Peru. I do think I will fall in love. I'm even renting a high end fisheye lens for MP : ) Just for fun.

crellston Jan 2nd, 2011 11:20 PM

Try to get to Chinchero at sunset the market (light)is great at that time of day. The inside of teh church is amazing. Also, the salt mines at Maras Salineras is worth a stop off as are the circular terraces at Moray.
if you are now staying in Olly then get up at dawn and wander the side streets and alleys off of Plaza de Armas for some local colour as the town wakes up. Also, a bit later the porters will start to arrive for the treks in the square. The main market is worth a quick visit for the amazing array of vegetables and vendors which can be very colourful.
On the way from the airport to your hotel there are a few local markets (not recommended) and of course Pisac which you could incorporate into your fisrt day.
More details of places we visited and (unedited!) photos on our blog.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...ai/1/tpod.html

Entires 56 onwards

BostonHarbor Jan 3rd, 2011 04:55 AM

crellston--Many thanks for your blog. Wow, you are travelers! Such a wonderful year. I'm jealous. I'm going to spend tonight perusing.

BostonHarbor Jan 4th, 2011 06:00 AM

Last question. Upon return from Cusco, we have a seven hour layover at the Lima airport. Does it make sense to hire a driver to do a evening tour of Lima? How bad is the traffic getting back? We will be checked through to JFK from Cusco, so we won't have to worry about check in again. We wouldn't need to get back until an hour and a half before the flight.

Or, is it not worth it and we should just hang out at the airport.

(I have followed many of your suggestions and the trip is getting better and better : )

mlgb Jan 4th, 2011 07:12 AM

Allow an hour each way to and from the airport. I think with 4 hours of free time it would be worthwhile. What time do you arrive/depart in Lima?

The traffic is bad most of the time, especially if you want to see the Plaza de Armas (which is worthwhile at night since the old buildings are illuminiated). I also wonder if you'd be able to walk thru the illuminated fountains.

And definitely worthwhile to have a meal at a top Lima restaurant

BostonHarbor Jan 4th, 2011 07:35 AM

Hi mlgb, We arrive LIM from CUZ at 4:30 PM. Depart at 11:55 PM.

pbphily Jan 12th, 2011 03:23 PM

Looks like you have a number of suggestions but I wanted to add an unusual food one -it was one of our food highlights of the trip - while staying in the Sacred Valley my daughter and I had lunch at "Aida's House" - a private home that hosts lunches - a delightful and interesting couple - he is an artist - [so will surely have ideas for area's to photograph] the home is beautiful and the food is picked fresh from their perfect garden - it was one of the best meals we had in Peru and a very memorable experience. The email - [email protected] -
telephone 51-84-202003 Not sure if you are foodies but we also did a half day cooking class with Ricardo - owner of Tres Keros restaurant - Urubamba - including a visit to the market and a trout farm - way way up in the mountains - he is an "interesting character" so it was a fun filled experience. Peru is an incredible country - you will be blown away with all of the sites.

ncounty Jan 16th, 2011 06:34 AM

I will be there a week after you for my big birthday trip, bostonharbor. It sounds like a fantastic trip you have planned! I would definitely go see Lima in those 7 hours you have before your flight. Inkaterra, I'm jealous! lol....

BostonHarbor Jan 16th, 2011 05:47 PM

pbphily, what a great suggestion for lunch a "Aida's House". That sounds wonderful. Thanks so much for the contact info. These are the tips that make the difference and make Fodors so incredible!

ncounty--and happy birthday to you as well : ) Enjoy your birthday trip.

In the continuuing effort to use my birthday as an excuse to upgrade, I decided to stay in a deluxe room at the new Aranwa Cusco that opened in October. http://link-url.com/G6U3E6 It actually isn't that much more than Casa Andina Private Collection and I'm keen to test the "intelligent oxygen system"

Thanks everyone for the information on Lima and the airport. I'm definately going to take a tour of Lima during our seven hour layover.

Your suggestions, links, and ideas have been priceless!

ncounty Jan 16th, 2011 09:01 PM

Aranwa looks amazing, bostonharbor! Wow, I think I'll take my cue from you and make many excuses all year to celebrate my birthday this year. :)

lcuy Mar 14th, 2011 11:43 PM

Boston Harbor- I have posted some questions on my upcoming trip here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...-questions.cfm

As I am familiar with your travel style, I'd love some input, especially if you think I'd be better off using Riva for some of the details.
Thanks!

Jackie Mar 15th, 2011 02:30 PM

Boston Harbor -- your trip sounds amazing.

I'm currently researching a similar trip for October flying out of Boston. If you wouldn't mind sharing your airline choice, I'd love to know. Flights to Lima start at an amazingly low $300 on Spirit Air which sounds too good to be true. But, because of the awful reviews on Spirit, I'm inclined at the moment to go with Lan who can offer the entire route (Boston, Lima, Cusco, Puerto Maldenado) for about $1,500.

bmcknight Mar 19th, 2011 08:03 PM

Hi Boston Harbor

I am so jealous!! ENJOY!! I wish that I didn't have to wait so long for our trip.


Hi Jackie

We are going to Peru in October 2011. It will be our birthday celebrations. My birthday (10/16) will be spent on MP. Ed BD is 10/31. We are also celebrating our 50th anniversary even though it is several months earlier in June 2011.

I am so excited!!

Brenda

lcuy Mar 22nd, 2011 10:16 PM

Getting close Boston Harbor! I am excited for you. Looking forward to your trip report too!

BostonHarbor Mar 23rd, 2011 06:02 PM

lcuy, I'll mozy over to your questions right now. Sorry I'm so late. I came down with the flu-->pneumonia for the last five weeks, and I thought I might have to cancel the trip. A siege. But, I am almost fit as a fiddle and will be fine for next week.

Thanks to everyone for your input. I am so looking forward to this trip. I'll be leaving next Friday April 1.

Jackie, I'm flying LAN. I'm taking Jet Blue to NYC (ticketed separately) $109 round trip. And, I am flying Business class LAN NYC--> Lima-->Cusco. I was able to get business class for $2400...and, as I have mentioned about 10 times so far : ), it is, after all, my birthday:). I thought that price for business class was excellent. (and I upgraded at InkaTerra just to put a cherry on the sundae, LOL)

I would book on LAN. Having connections via the same airline is always good and worth the extra money---in my book.

Oh, and I have been able to hire a photographer/guide for a private five hour tour of Machu Picchu. I want to find all the secret places : ) I'll let you know how he is so that if there are photographers in the forum who are interested.

I will post a trip report. Can't wait!

And, I hope all the other birthday girls enjoy their time in Peru as well : )

BostonHarbor Mar 23rd, 2011 06:07 PM

Oh, and I am doing a four hour city tour of Lima during my return layover--thanks everyone for the suggestion!

Jackie Mar 23rd, 2011 06:38 PM

Thanks BH. I've almost accepted he high airfare cost and decided going with Lan would be the best option. Yesterday, coach was $1750 out of Boston (including domestic flights) and about $1250 out of NYC. Quite the difference!

Sounds like you have planned a wonderful time for yourself. Have a great birthday.

BostonHarbor Mar 24th, 2011 04:55 AM

Last question. (or so I think : ) I know it is the just getting to the end of the rainy season and I should expect rain. Has anyone been in SV, Cusco, MP at the beginning of April? It looks cooler than I expected (the extended forecast has highs in the 47-50 degree F range) . I know that "previous performance does not insure future results", but what did you experience in terms of rain/sun/cold/heat?

I will bring layers and a light backpack to peel off layers during the day.

Thanks!

evamarie Mar 30th, 2011 12:07 AM

Happy Birthday - have fun on your trip. My bf and I are planning a trip for later this summer - excited to hear how yours went;-)

Diane60030 Mar 30th, 2011 12:46 PM

If you have a water proof outer layer like a rain jacket, wind breaker, poncho. Layers underneath should be fine.

BostonHarbor Apr 1st, 2011 03:28 PM

Hi All, I'm sitting in the business class lounge at JFK watching all the world's airliners come in and out. I leave in a couple hours and will be in Peru tomorrow morning. I promise to write a trip report. Thanks again SOOO much for all your great ideas and tips. As they say....priceless : )

ncounty Apr 1st, 2011 03:49 PM

SO exciting, bh! I am leaving in 12 days and am starting to get nervous that I am not nearly prepared enough for this. Have a fantastic time!

lcuy Apr 1st, 2011 08:24 PM

Oh, I'm too late for you to see this, but BON VOYAGE! Can't wait to hear about this trip.

Your's too ncounty! I'm hoping to take advantage of being third this spring and reading your reports! 5.5 weeks till we go.

evamarie Apr 25th, 2011 05:35 PM

Boston Harbor I want to hear about your photography guide. I want to know whether it is worth using a guide or whether we should go it alone.

Thanks!

BostonHarbor Apr 26th, 2011 06:14 PM

Hi Evamarie, I came home from my trip to land in the middle of my total kitchen renovation, so photos and trip report have been literally on the back burner (or lack thereof : )

I have some great photos (2000+ of them!) . The weather was perfect the entire time and we arrived at MP to a "National Geographic" perfect photo day. I was so happy!

I'm working on my photos and trip report this weekend and will start a trip report thread.

However, in answer to your specific guide question, the guide at MP was great for me. He took us out onto ledges and precipices where few tourists go. Great vistas for photos. I spent about four hours with the guide and then, while my friend hiked up to the Inca bridge with the guide, I went off by myself to the far corners of MP where there was nary a human, just an occasional random llama. It was perfect.


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