Peru Trip
 

I am following the Gringo trail in mid June and could use some suggestions to make my trip as pleasureable and memorable as possible. My adult son and I are going to the following places:
Lima / Arequipa/ Colca Canyon / Cuzco / Sacred Valley /
Machu Picchu / Puno / Lake Titicaca – Uros Islands & Taquile Island /
Ballestas Islands / Nazca Lines / Ica

We already have our hotels booked, but would like information on good restaurants for lunch and dinner that won't break the bank. Also, we would like the best places to buy bottled water, sundries, and decent exchange rates for US Dollars.

What is the nightlife like in Arequipa and Cusco?

Any help would be appreciated.

Virtualtourist.com and Tripadvisor for foodie/nightlife

Good in all your bigger cities.

Groceries have cheapest supplies

Capitalone.com no fee Visa works best for me everywhere.

I ATM/Change money only at big banks

Peru is the counterfeit capital of the world

Street Change very risky.

Have fun insuremytrip.com for strikes theft etc always wise

review travel.state.gov Peru for a heads up....

www.inkagrillcusco.com

great in Cusco try the grilled Cuy...

Our trip is already insured for various inconveniences. Cuy sounds good. We're also looking for suggestions on Alpaca burgers, Ceviche, and other Peruvian fare.

These were my highlight meals from my recent trip report:

My best meal of the trip:

I took a taxi to what my research indicated was quite possibly the best restaurant in Lima, Astrid y Gaston. I arrived at 1 pm and was thrilled to be accommodated. They had a ten course tasting menu that would take 3 hours and the cost was only $50. It was my biggest splurge on this trip and possibly one of the best values. I felt like I was on the Food network as one of the judges with amazing chefs creating unspeakable fantasties with food. Even translated in English, the menu would be like a foreign language to me; it was the loftiest culinary experience I have ever had. I would highly recommend this as your splurge event in Lima if you are a foodie.

My second best food experience was having ceviche at the restaurant across from the Merced cathedral in Cusco. The view was spectacular and the dish was soooo tasty. I was lured there by a Justin Timberlake lookalike who was working the block promoting their menu.

I don't know if the $50-60 per person will break the bank for you but for me, it was really worth the splurge.

50 is a bit high, but we do plan to splurge for at least one nice evening out. We have one day in Lima before we fly out, we just might have to try it. No reservations required? Do they have a dress code beyond no shorts?

There are all sorts of alternatives, Astrid and Gaston is one of the most expensive restaurants in Peru, and $50 is far less then you would spend at dinner.

If you are passing through Ollantaytambo the restaurant at El Albergue hotel is good for an alpaca steak.

In Cusco my favorite meal was at Los Toldos chicken. If you are on a budget in Lima look for Pardo's. BTW it isn't that unusual to see two people sharing a chicken meal, I don't know what they feed those chickens in Peru but they are huge!!

I lucked out showing up with no reservations. I would definitely recommend sending them an email and trying to have reservations just to play it safe. It is a very elegant place. I think if you wear your nicest pants and a shirt, you will probably be okay. I did not observe a strict dress code.

We are spending a night in Ollantaytambo, we might just try an alpaca steak. Are they any good?

Any night spots that are fairly safe in Arequipa or Cusco? We won't be in Lima at night.

I walked around Cusco's main square area at night by myself and felt perfectly safe. The restaurant I recommended is just a block away.

I tried alpaca on several occasions; it was okay but not amazing. It is definitely worth one try though. Also, have some quinoa soup. And Inka Cola. It is all part of the experience.

The alpaca loin at El Albergue was excellent, very mild in flavor and tender.

And they say alpaca has no cholesterol. I tried a marinated version in Cusco at Pachapapa which came on a skewer and it was delicious. That restaurant is near the Plaza.

I loved Inka Cola. First time I drank something other than a diet soda in many, many years.

Bottle water is everywhere. There didn't seem to be a significant difference in price in the cities. The prices were noticeably higher at the tourist attractions, however. For instance, buy the bottled water in Aguas Calientes instead of at the top at Machu Picchu. Big savings there.

My wife and I recently returned from Peru and if you haven't checked out my trip report, it is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...ul-country.cfm

Very nice conversation.

What is quinoa soup and Inka Cola?

The alpaca loin at El Albergue was excellent, very mild in flavor and tender. Where is El albergue?

Try the ceviche (with accompanying "tigers milk" at one of the stalls in Molinos market in Cusco. Huge portions and the best in Peru (IMHO!).

Chez maggy in Cusco does great trout and Alpaca pizza and Jacks Cafe in San Blas is good for huge sandwiches, burgers etc...

In Arequipa we had a great steak (hard to find in peru) at El Gaucho Parrillada.

Change your money at ATMs but do be careful as Cusco particualrly is renowned for thefts, particularly around teh Plaza de Armas. Use a machine inside a bank if possible.

El Albergue is the small hotel on the train station platform in Ollantaytambo.

Ceviche is definitely on our list but what is "tigers milk"?

DCD- I enjoyed your trip blog.

I am still looking a night life places and restaurants particularly in Arequipa, Ica, and Nasca.

Tiger's milk is the juice left over from marinating the fish. Some places serve it in shot glasses.

I probably would pick Lima as a better choice for seeking out ceviche. Cusco is too far from the ocean!

Suggestions for Ceviche in Lima or Ica?

Also, what is the cheapest way to communicate to the US from Peru? I will be getting a mobile phone useable in Peru but it won't be free to the states nor is it unlocked. I am trying to look at my various options (calling cards, Skype, hotel) and don't know my cheapest options for calls. Ideally I would like my husband to be able to call the cellphone once I get the number, but I suspect the cost will be exorbitant.

Cebicheria El Mercado is the new one on ceviche row. Pescado Capitales, La Mar, Punto Azul, & Kapallaq are other upscale choices. If you're going without a reservation you need to go early, like 12:30.

I've even had good ceviche at the lunchtime buffet at Plaza Vea.