Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > South America
Reload this Page >

Just booked open jaw to Santiago return from Buenos Aires. Looking for some advice.

Search

Just booked open jaw to Santiago return from Buenos Aires. Looking for some advice.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 22nd, 2018, 09:25 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just booked open jaw to Santiago return from Buenos Aires. Looking for some advice.

Just used some frequent flyer miles to book a 8 night/9 day trip to these 2 cities in early November. We arrive in Santiago on a Saturday morning. I'm thinking of renting a car, and driving straight to Valparaiso. I'm looking into day trip winery tour (maybe Casablanca area?) so we don't have to drive and can enjoy our tastings. We'll spend the rest of the time exploring Valparaiso, and maybe do a side trip or 2 with the car. The last night we'll stay in Santiago, to fly to BA the next day. We fly home from BA on the Sunday night, 8 days later.

I'm thinking of:
3 nights Valparaiso (with wine country day trip). We'll have a car here so can explore nearby areas as well.
1 night Santiago. Probably drive there early enough so we can spend a day exploring the area
4 nights Buenos Aires - no car here

Is this a good use of the time we have?
Should we get rid of the car when we return to Santiago, or just use it to drive to airport the next day (for BA flight)? Not sure how parking is in any of these places.
Any recommendation for the wine tours, or any other worthwhile walking tours?
As far as accommodations, any neighborhood areas to recommend for any of the locations, any areas to avoid? Accommodation recs welcome also. I like to keep the budget to average no more than $150/night and prefer small charming hotels or B&Bs. Location, cleanliness, quiet and convenience are our priorities.

I've never been to South America, my husband has, but not to these countries. We like cities and are walkers, and also enjoy pretty scenery (I dabble with photography). We like trying different food, exploring "authentic" neighborhoods, and taking in some of the local charm, culture and history. Shopping is definitely not a priority, but I do like to pick up small items as gifts or for the home, that will remind me of their origin.
MFNYC is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2018, 05:16 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just a quick thought on your idea of a car rental in Chile: a car is more of a hindrance than anything in Valparaiso, which is very much a walking city with scarcity of (usually expensive) parking. It is also relatively easy to get from there to Vina del Mar for instance using the light rail system, and you already mentioned about getting a tour to a nearby vineyard. Therefore, I am not sure what you intend to actually use the vehicle for other than the intercity run (Stgo-Valpo) on the toll highway 68. (there are no particularly interesting landmarks or sights along the way)

You may want to consider a bus or a transfer service (for ex. TransVip) upon arrival at SCL to go straight to Valparaiso, which would likely be more cost effective. To return to Santiago centre, there are intercity buses something like every 20 min or so - very easy and inexpensive. This would avoid driving and parking $$$ in Stgo.

To get to the airport from central Stgo, we have used the shuttle service called TransVip which does pickup at your specified location. Your hotel can likely arrange for this through phoning the day ahead. They do accept credit cards too.
kanadajin is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2018, 05:35 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks. I was unsure about the car. I’ll look into transfer services.
MFNYC is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 12:06 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 9,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Definitely do not get a car for Valaparaiso. It is pretty straightforward to get the bus there from the airport. Loads to photograph in Valparaiso, one of the world’s more photogenic cities.

In BA we have always rented apartments rather than hotels or B& Bs, usually in Palermo Soho which we found to be a pretty quiet corner of a relatively noisy city. Recoleta is another option. Last time we used https://www.oasiscollections.com/buenos-aires/ who were excellent. Superb apartment, a great service which included limo transfers to and from the airport, a concierge service and membership of a private club.

San Telmo market is a great place to visit on a Sunday morning and an ideal place to pick up a few souvenirs.

Last edited by crellston; May 23rd, 2018 at 12:07 AM. Reason: Website behaving badly- yet again!!
crellston is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 06:16 AM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, we'll drop the car. I was concerned about parking, and the place I was looking into staying while in Valparaiso does not have parking.

If we take a taxi from the airport, do we just go the the transfer desk when we arrive, or is it something we should plan in advance with a service? I think after that we'll take the bus to Santiago.

I was looking at this place for Valparaiso: Hotel Manoir Atkinson, and in BA: ARC Arenales Studios & Suites in Ricoleta area. I chose these based on price, reviews and what appears to be good locations. I still have to look into the 1 night in Santiago.
MFNYC is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 06:42 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here's another possibility, we hire a private driver/guide to pick us up at airport, and on the way to Valparaiso, we stop for lunch and a few wineries for tastings/tours. Since we need transportation to Valparaiso, and we want to do winery tours, maybe we can bundle it at the same time.

Any recs for someone who can do this for us?
MFNYC is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 09:37 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I took the public bus straight from the Santiago airport to Valparaiso bus station. From the bus station I took a taxi to my hotel (the Ibis). No charm but convenient location overlooking the port.

The two hill neighborhoods that are best are Cerro Alegre and Concepcion. Manoir Atkinson looks okay. I recall lots of good comments on Fauna as well.

My favorite restaurant in Valparaiso was SaborColor on Templeman 561. Good wine, good fish. If you like fish/seafood Valparaiso is the place to indulge. Did not have any trouble getting a simple preparation of grilled Corvina fish (a la plancha) with extra vegetables rather than a starch side. Also look for Congrio on menus.

Yes I think you can do a wine tour/transfer. When the cruise ships used Valpo as a port this was common, but I'm not sure if it's still an option since the cruise port moved.

I recommend doing a Graffiti tour either private or with Tours4Tips (no reservations, https://tours4tips.com ). Also like their cultural tour. There are a number of other companies who offer tours but that's the one I took. Don't do the "Open Air Museum" bit on you own..there is much better graffit elsewhere now.

All of the Neruda homes are worth a visit. Go early for Isla Negra as there is usually a lineup. That might be the one time you'd want a car, I took the bus but I'm sure there are tour/transfer options.

In Santiago I would look near Bellavista if you want to visit La Chascona. There are a few boutique type hotels there now. The hotel I used in 2009 appears to have disappeared (perhaps an earthquake victim). If you don't intend to sightsee in Santiago or have an early flight, then there are also airport hotels eg Holiday Inn.

I agree to stay in Recoleta rather than one of the Palermos...
mlgb is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 05:57 PM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks mlgb. Unfortunately the Fauna is not available one of the nights we need it. I am still open to change my hotel, someone else recommended Casa Galos. I only book hotels I can cancel. I'll keep an eye on the Fauna to see if something opens up in the next few months. The Graffiti tour looks great too!.

In Santiago, I'm looking at CasaSur Charming Hotel. We will be taking the bus from Valpo in the morning so we'll have some time to explore.
MFNYC is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2018, 06:29 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
One thing to be aware of is the reconstruction of some of the ascencors...I belive Peral is open and Concepcion is still closed but may be open by November...
mlgb is offline  
Old May 24th, 2018, 08:23 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just looked at the Tours4Tips website and they don't seem to have a graffiti tour at this time - just "Offbeat" and "Highlights". I wonder if "Offbeat" equates to "Graffiti".
sf7307 is offline  
Old May 24th, 2018, 11:18 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Highlights (the 3pm tour)included graffiti.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 24th, 2018, 01:38 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks!
sf7307 is offline  
Old May 24th, 2018, 10:52 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Note that there is no public bus directly from the airport to Valparaiso. If there is a Transvip shuttle that would be news to me as I believe they only do city/airport transfers. But you could check their website. The idea of a driver to Valparaiso is a good one * but should you opt for the bus: take an airport bus to Pajaritos metro/bus station. It is usually the first stop the airport bus makes.The buses from Santiago to Valparaiso stop there briefly on the way and it saves going into the city

*Google Leo Cuzmar, Guides Chile and see if he or one of his team is available.

Have a look at the Morgan B&B on Cerro Alegre. The liveliest area and most restaurants are on Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. Because of the particular geography of Valparaiso, a series of hills, getting from one hill to another can take time.
Huentetu is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 06:45 AM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, you do need to take a special airport bus out to the station at Pajaritos, and from there a different bus (TurBus) to Valparaiso. As Huentetu says, you do not however need to go into Santiago proper to go to Valpo. There are numerous detailed descriptions of how to do this, including mine from 2016

https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...o-valpo-111839.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 07:25 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It doesn't have to be Turbus. All the companies doing the route stop there. You shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes for a bus.
Huentetu is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 07:43 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Have a look at the Morgan B&B on Cerro Alegre. The liveliest area and most restaurants are on Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. Because of the particular geography of Valparaiso, a series of hills, getting from one hill to another can take time.
We made a reservation at Fauna Hotel. Is that near Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. If not, what might be a better choice of hotel, location-wise?
sf7307 is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 09:05 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 26,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sf7307
We made a reservation at Fauna Hotel. Is that near Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion. If not, what might be a better choice of hotel, location-wise?
Never mind! I looked on google maps and see that it's very close.
sf7307 is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 09:17 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Huentetu
Note that there is no public bus directly from the airport to Valparaiso. If there is a Transvip shuttle that would be news to me as I believe they only do city/airport transfers. But you could check their website.
Just to clarify, when we arrived at SCL we lined up at the Transvip counter to purchase our transfers into Santiago, however the gentleman just ahead of us was in addition in the process of arranging in advance for a separate service (in the following days it seemed) for transportation to a point well outside Stgo (while we waited and waited for our turn). Perhaps I wrongly overheard but I did get the impression that you could hire one of their private cars (as opposed to their regular mini vans) for such.

Out of curiosity I just checked their website and there is no specific reference to Valparaiso, so now I am left a little wondering. It may be worthwhile to contact them directly if this would still be an option for the OP. Hopefully I have not mislead anyone!
kanadajin is offline  
Old May 25th, 2018, 10:52 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I used the Transvip shuttle when I went to Santiago, they don't go to Valparaiso.

They are like Supershuttle. Going back to the airport they wanted too much lead time so I used a taxi.

At the time I went to Valparaiso I think there were two companies which you could take from Pajaritos. Turbus was leaving first and was fine.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 27th, 2018, 03:24 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You can get a taxi from the airport to Valparaiso but not a shuttle. I don't know what the cost is now but somewhere in the region of US$150 should be about right. Transvip does cover outlying areas of Santiago and perhaps that was what someone was booking. But the shuttles just do airport transfers in Santiago, Calama and Antofagasta.
Huentetu is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -