Much to study! At least I can easily exclude the Perurail option – too rich for my blood! (And thanks for pointing out that there was no typo there!)

If I continue to include Puno, I believe the Killawase has an option for pickup in Arequipa and drop-off in Puno. My idea in this case would be to go from Puno to Cusco or – if possible – on to Ollantaytambo after that. So Cusco and the Sacred Valley would be the LAST places I visit on this trip.

I thought mlgb confirmed above that sequencing in that way would work?Thanks again!

Killawasi picked us up from our hotel in central Arequipa around 08.00. It took longer than usual to get to the lodge because the road was blocked by landslides following the earthquake a few days previously. Spent two nights in Killawasi ( great place btw) they took care of all sightseeing. We had planned some hiking but that was not possible because many of the paths had been destroyed so, if not hiking one night may be enough. Drive to the condor lookout was included. The trip to Puno was great, if long, but there were some ingesting stops along the way. The passes are high but no one on te bus seemed bothered by the altitude. We had been at high altitude for several months but our friend had only just arrived. They did take Diamox though which we picked up in Lima and probably helped.

Puno to Cusco takes 6-7 hours by normal bus around 10 by Inka Express. The latter is worth it IMO. We arrived in Cusco around 17.30. Two hours from the airport to Ollantaytambo. I would get taxidatum to collect unless you are confident getting a taxi at the airport. Having said that, you will be acclimatised by then so ther shouldn’t be any issues staying in Cusco on arrival if that works for your schedule better.

Thanks again, crellston! I'll be sure to consider the Inka Express, and I've already noted your recommendations for taxidatum. It's so nice to have the benefit of experienced travelers!

Progress made! Nonetheless, I continue to run into some logistical dilemmas and continue to value your advice. I’m embedding some question numbers (Q#) in what follows, in case that makes it easier to respond.

A foiled effort to trim my itinerary:

Since I last posted, I explored the option for skipping Puno, going straight from the Colca Canyon to Cusco instead, but as mlgb suspected, it really didn’t work. I could, perhaps, make it work by re-arranging my trip, but I think I would then miss Corpus Christi in Cusco or run a greater risk of being on the coast during the garua or otherwise run into scheduling difficulties. So, for now at least, I’m planning on the 4M tour from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon, with one night in Chivay (not, alas, at the otherwise very appealing Killawasi Lodge, but rather at Mama Yacchi, which mlgb mentioned (not unfavorably I think) and moving on to Puno the next day. Q1: Any reason not to book through 4M rather than a different operator?

My biggest reason for considering ways to skip Puno was the overall length of my trip. I’m sure it seems a quibbling difference, but I had hoped for a plan that would involve 30 or at most 31 days; my current plan is for 32 or 33 days. Fortunately, I can take the extra time off work, but unfortunately my experience tells me that 30 or 31 days pushes the limit of my endurance. Q2: My plan is still the one listed at post # 11, above (except that I’m now planning to shift one or two nights from Ollantaytambo to Pisac – thanks, yestravel!); if any of you have further suggestions for cutting a day or two – particularly by eliminating something that is redundant – I would welcome it, even though I am very excited about the plan I have and am hoping I can make it work.

Options for the Chachapoya:

I’ve also been exploring my options for the Chachapoya, and again, have run into some challenges. My priorities for this area include Kuelap, the Leymebamba museum, and a bit of Chachapoyas. (I am open to other options as well, although anything that requires a lot of climbing is, I fear, likely to be too challenging for me.) I currently expect to arrive at the airport in Jaen mid-day after a long overnight trip (including at least 2 different stops) and then, after 3 nights in the Chcachapoya area, take an overnight bus from Chachapoyas to Chiclayo.

Upon mlgb’s welcome advice, I wrote to both the Casa Mallqui and the Kentitambo; I haven’t yet heard from the first, but did hear from the Kentitambo. If a bit of a splurge (as mlgb warned), it does sound delightful, I love the chance to include some birdwatching and a bit of nature in my plans, and they do have availability – so far at least! :) Their suggestion was as follows: After flying into Jaen, make my way to Cocachimba or Chachapoyas and spend the night. The next day, take a tour to Kuelap – but rather than returning with the tour, Kentitambo would arrange for a taxi to meet me in Nuevo Tingo. I could then spend a night or two at Kentitambo, moving on to Chachapoyas for the 2nd night or early enough the next day to see a bit of that city before taking my overnight bus.

I like this idea very much, but am a bit daunted by how to make it happen.

• I think the simplest option might be to go to Chachapoyas for a night; find a tour to Kuelap that will allow me to leave an overnight bag somewhere during my visit to Kuelap, and then retrieve that bag and somehow make my way to Nuevo Tingo. (I think Nuevo Tingo may be on the tour route, so that might not be a big deal; I’ve contacted Chachapoyas Backpackers – thanks for that rec, crellston! -- but haven’t heard back yet.) I could then spend a night, or even two, at Kentitambo before returning – I would assume by taxi – to Chachapoyas in plenty of time to see a bit of that city before my overnight bus to Chiclayo. Q3: Make sense? And if so, Q4: is the bus from Jaen to Chachapoyas really timed to connect with the flights, or would it be better to arrange a transfer from La Casona (again, thanks for the rec, mlgb!)?
• I had already determined that the Gocta Lodge does not seem to be available when I would be in the area, but have written to them just in case they actually have availability for part or all of the time or, perhaps, can suggest another option.
• Q5: Other ideas?

Routing through Cusco and the Sacred Valley:

Q6: I can choose to be in Pisac on a Sunday, or instead, choose to visit Machu Picchu on a Sunday. I understand that each has advantages. Does anyone care to make a strong case one way or the other?

Reservations

Once I nail down my itinerary, I plan to
· reserve my flights to/from Peru,
· reserve visits to Machu Picchu, and
· make reservations for lodging (preferably cancellable, to maximize my options for tweaking my plans).
· Q7: I assume I should reserve internal flights, the one overnight bus I will take, and the tour from Arequipa through the Colca Canyon to Puno as soon as I’ve finalized my plan – true?

· Q8: I plan to research my options for day-trip tours, but not to reserve them just yet, as I think I would like the flexibility to adjust based on weather, etc. – make sense? Any exceptions?

· Q9: When using taxidatum for a transfer, how long in advance should I make my reservation?

· Q10: Is there anything else I should reserve in advance?

(BTW, I already booked 3B Barranco’s. :) Other recommendations are welcome!)

Truly picky details:

Q11: Does it matter whether I aim for a seat on the right or left side for the
· Flight from the eastern US to Lima?
· Flight from Lima to Jaen?
· Bus from Chachapoyas to Chiclayo?
· Bus from Chiclayo to Trujillo?
· Flight from Trujillo to Lima?
· Flight from Lima to Ayacucho?
· Flight from Ayacucho to Arequipa (which I think actually has two legs, to and from Lima)?
· Bus from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon and on to Puno?
· Bus from Puno to Cusco?
· Transportation from Ollantaytamba to Aguas Calientes and from there to/from Machu Picchu?
· Other?

I'm often happy to visit ancient ruins without a guide, relying on written materials (read in advance and while on site) and audioguides instead. But with so many different pre-Columbian cultures, I think I might benefit from working with guides more often than would be typical for me. Q12: Which sites would you most strongly encourage me to consider working with a guide, and at which would a guide likely be least valuable?

Thank you once again for helping me plan!

Q1 ..If you are going to stay at Mama Yaachi, I would also check with Giardino Tours (owns Mama Yaachi ) about booking their one-night package. Try their Facebook page as I'm not sure how good their website is. When I went they had their own van and guides for the Arequipa- Colca portion and just used 4-M to get me up to Puno. They are a long time Arequipa specialist. There used to be one agent who spoke English hopefully they will get back in a day or two...
https://www.facebook.com/GiardinotoursPeru/

Since I've only heard about it third-hand, I don't want to tell you that the bus from Jaen airport is a certainty. If your itinerary is tight and La Casona is offering a transfer I might take them up on it (I would take my chances on the bus, personally!)

The cable car to Kuelap runs from Nuevo Tingo so the tours will be stopping there. Until hearing back from an operator I would go on an assumption that you can find a group tour the day you arrive for the following day, which will use a minivan to go to Nuevo Tingo (the way they used to go directly to the Kuelap site). You should be able to leave a small bag with no valuables on the van, while on tour (like a change of clothing and a toothbrush!). The main square in Chachas used to have a bunch of travel agents, and they would pool you up on a Kuelap tour, which will run every day. BTW I did like the tour guide used by Hostal Revash for Kuelap (Agosto, curly haired guy who I think might be the son of the pushy lady who runs the hotel). In Chachapoyas I ate at Panaderia San Jose but it was a shadow of its former self on a recent visit. The public market in Chachapoyas is worth a visit.

I would trust Kentitambo to get you back to Chachapoyas. There is public transport from the town center of Leimabamba back to Chachas which I think leaves early in the morning but it might need to be reserved ahead of time so ask Kentitambo about the options. They have hummingbird feeders on site, and you'll also see birds on the museum property. I doubt you will find a bird guide for a day in the area..they will come from Lima or Chiclayo..although Gocta Lodge might be able to help you since they have some birding tour connections. Food at Kentitambo is great, btw, and there may not be any good options around town.

Your transfers with taxidatum..a week ahead is plenty, even a few days is okay.

For the long distance bus you can do it online anytime at least a few days before you leave..you can pick a better seat the more in advance you book. You don't have to do it now, although it's worth checking online to look at seat availability as there can be local holidays that cause high demand (there is also lots of travel around Mother's Day).

I won't make a strong push for where to spend your Sunday but I enjoyed the early Sunday hours in Pisac and the arrival of villagers to the market and chapel. MP is always busy. Best approach is to go first thing in the morning before the majority of day trippers arrive.

I would reserve hotels if you are looking for well-located mid-priced ones. They do tend to sell out. My recommendations as a solo female traveler who doesn't mind a small room although I will often book the double/queen bed since the single rooms tend to be in dark corners and even smaller than normal. booking.com is widely used although sometimes you can book direct..like with 3B... get a better rate. Or not.

Chiclayo is Hotel Mochiks. Modern but good location near the bus stations and friendly staff. I have nothing for Trujillo.

In Arequipa I liked "Hostal La Casa de Melgar". Lots of character and antiques, old sillar contruction, walkable to Catalina.

I have stayed at the train station hotel in Olly (El Albergue) and it does tend to sell out. Nice if you decide to leave early or return late. There are lots more options now for spending less and staying up in the old town sector.

In Puno I stumbled onto Qelqatani..also nice staff and well located. They have a restaurant if you don't want to go out for dinner at night in Puno.

Re Mama Yaachi... I did like it..but it gets COLD there . The rooms are heated by underpowered radiators (this is common in much of Andean Peru unless you are going upscale). Bring something warm to sleep in if you get cold at night. I also found it cold in Chachapoyas which is one reason I moved to La Casona..they had space heaters!

My hotel in Cusco was El Balcon. It is not too far from the central plaza but up a steep flight of steps. You might want something closer to the plaza and less steep, or you can take a taxi back up hill if they go around the block.

Ayacucho lodging was difficult. crellston and I both found ViaVia noisy but it might be the best you can do. Try asking for a quiet room and bring earplugs. It does have a good location and good coffee at the restaurant.

If you did want to go with Wari tours in Ayacucho I might contact them ahead of time. I was able to book them for the next day as a walk in but it may not always be possible, my tour was in Spanish with the guy who owns the company who happened to be in the office at the time. I was there in low season, though.

Phew! ;)
Q1 - No
Q2 - I much prefer Ollantaymbo to Pisac. That said, whilst I have spent in excess of a month in Ollantaytambo, I have never spent a night in Pisac.
Q6 - I have been in Pisac both on weekdays and a Sunday. the market is more impressive on a Sunday (just don’t buy anything there!). These days there are markets every day but not as big as Sunday. on balance I would go on. Sunday but expect big crowds
Q7 - I would book flights, tours and buses as soon as you have finalised your itinerary.
Q8 - Day trips and tours are easily arranged on the spot but with such a tight schedule you may not have much flexibility anyway.
Q9 - A few days should be fine for Taxidatum but I would book as soon as you know your dates. you can always amend as needed.
Q10 - Obviously you need to book MP ASAP. If you want specific hotels or hostels then book sooner rather than later. In Peru, I tend to use booking.com as most places have free cancellations up tp 24 hours. The only exception on our last trip was Niños Hotel where we had to book direct - nice place and good cause BTW
Q11 -Flight from the eastern US to Lima?
· Flight from Lima to Jaen? On the right - the andes are on the right, the sea on the left
· Bus from Chachapoyas to Chiclayo? It was dark when I did it!
· Bus from Chiclayo to Trujillo? ditto
· Flight from Trujillo to Lima? On the left.
· Flight from Lima to Ayacucho? I took the bus but I doubt it matters which side
· Flight from Ayacucho to Arequipa (which I think actually has two legs, to and from Lima)? The second leg from Lima to Arequipa I would choose the left. the first leg, the opposite of the side you chose on getting to Ayacucho
· Bus from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon and on to Puno? It doesn’t matter.
· Bus from Puno to Cusco? I think the right if you want to catch sight of the train - otherwise it doesn’t matter
· Transportation from Ollantaytamba to Aguas Calientes and from there to/from Machu Picchu? Not sure that you can choose.
· Other? With any buses it is worth going for the best class you can. downstairs id always preferable to the upper deck. On Perus winding roads they upper deck really does sway a lot.

Once again: Thank you, mlgb & crellston! My trip shaping up nicely, and I’m gaining confidence in my plan – and that’s a very nice feeling!

@ mlgb: I already reserved La Casa del Melgar for Arequipa – I think I had seen that you recommended that on another thread. :)

@ crellson: Is the Niños Hotel to which you refer in Cusco?

Niños Hotel is indeed in Cusco. I liked it a lot, but like a lot of these old colonial hotels built around a courtyard, it was a bit noisy much like Via Via in Ayacucho that mlgb referred to. A price one must pay for quaint I guess.

In Ollantaytambo we have stayed at a few places over the year. El Alberqueque is convenient for the station but away from the plaza, ruins and restaurants. Apu Lodge is nice, huge rooms. Last time we stayed at La Casa de Mi Abuelo Riverside and really enjoyed our stay. Quite close to the ruins, walking distance to the plaza but quite a walk to the station.

@ crellston: I thought that must be the Niños Hotel you meant -- and just reserved the Niños Hotel Meloc. :) I've asked for a quiet room -- we'll see how that works. Fortunately, I can sleep through a fair amount of sound. And thanks for the recommendations for Ollantaytambo -- I had already reserved La Casa de Mi Abuelo Riverside, and so am delighted to know you enjoyed your stay there.

If you are going to be in Cusco MP around that festival then it will be busy. So yes, reserve everything as soon as you can even taxidatum. I should have factored that in.

I don't know that Lima will be as much of an issue.

Ayacucho can be sold out if there is a big festival day.

I think some iPeru sites might list festivals.

Continued progress!
 

Thanks again, mlgb!

I now have a room in each location I plan to visit. Yay! :star: (I still need to confirm Kentitambo -- I'm going to wait just a bit longer in the hope that I get some info I've requested before confirming that reservation; I'm holding La Casona as a back-up until then). All of the room reservations are ones that can be cancelled, so I might tweak a few a bit as I do further research, but I'm actually very pleased with the options I've nailed down. :)

I hope to make all my flight reservations in the next fews days, along with my reservations for Machu Picchu. If I followed the directions properly, I confirmed earlier today that they are not yet close to running out, but I don't want to take any chances. Before I book I want to make sure that my plan for that region makes sense; that's what I've been working on this evening. My current scenario is:

• InkaExpress bus from Puno to Cusco, go on to Ollantaytambo (by taxidatum or...); overnight in Ollantaytambo.
• Explore Ollantaytambo's ruins early; move on to Aguas Calientes in time for an afternoon visit to Machu Picchu; overnight in Aguas Calientes.
• Back to Machu Picchu for a 2nd visit (assuming I want to do that -- and I can't imagine that I won't); back through Aguas Calientes and on to Pisac, visiting sites in the Sacred Valley as possible en route. (This leg is the one that I'm struggling with -- I don't know if the timing works.) Overnight in Pisac.
• Pisac: Sunday market and ruins. Overnight in Pisac.
• Move on to Cusco when I'm ready. I think I have some latitude to pick up a bit of the Sacred Valley on this day if necessary -- for Cusco, I'll have whatever remains of this day, plus 3 full days, plus the better part of yet another day before my flight.

I sent a message to Giardino Tours earlier today, and hope to nail the trip from Arequipa through the Colca Canyon to Puno down soon. From what I can tell, it's too soon to reserve most of my buses, but I'll confirm that soon and book ASAP.

I just posted a question on Fodor's airlines forum about booking my flights:
https://www.fodors.com/community/air...untry-1647041/
I would, of course, welcome your thoughts on that question, whether on this thread or the other one!

I found a few web sites that list feasts and festivals in Peru, including the wonderful LimaEasy source to which you directed me -- what a great source of information! :star: I admit that discrepancies between sites in the information on specific dates can be a bit confusing, but I'm reasonably confident about Corpus Christi. As for the full-moon festival, Q'oyoriti, I think its actually outside of Cusco and in an area I won't likely be able to reach, but at least one source I read suggested that it's an interesting time to visit Cusco, as many of the celebrants pass through the city. And from what I've read here on Fodor's and elsewhere, I may simply stumble upon a celebration here or there, and although I won't count on that, I know it will be a treasured experience if it happens.

Pimsleur's Latin American Spanish lessons are making their way to me; I've made a note to take my super lightweight silk sleeping bag with me to help cope with cold nights; and I just received a super-light high-tech puffer vest that I think might come in handy.

It seems to me that my plans are really beginning to fall in place. :) But even if it dashes my new-found confidence, do let me know if I've missed something or otherwise miscalculated!

I do think / hope I warned everyone that I can be a bit long-winded. Sorry!

The big issue with flights in Peru has always seemed to be Cusco to Lima and vv. being a high altitude airport sometimes planes are delayed or cancelled due to high winds, usually after midday. LATAM have more modern planes than some airlines and are (allegedly) more reliable.

If you can book on the same ticket for a similar price then that would seem to make sense as then the onus falls on the airline to get you from a to b to c and you do have a pretty tight itinerary. That said, my concern would be the possible lack of flexibility if you do decide to change plans half way. E.g. I think with most airlines if you cancel one flight or fail to check in they may cancel the rest of your ticket.

Something I rarely do, but it may be a case where booking via an agent could be a better solution. I know of one agency in the U.K. who charges a flat £50 or so and will provide free changes to multi destination tickets.

Thanks again, crellston!

Progress made! I’ve booked

• all my flights,
• all my rooms (including a splurge at Kentitambo),
• the Giardino tour from Arequipa to Puno (with a night at MamaYacchi’s),
• the InkaExpress from Puno to Cusco,
• my tickets to visit Machu Picchu, and
• even most of the rides for which I will use taxidatum (I have questions in to them about a few options).

Yay!!!

I think it’s too early to book my buses and various day-trip tours, but my research is well underway.

Thank you again for all your help -- I’m very excited by the experiences that await me. :)

Nice!

Will look forward to what I know will be an excellent trip report.

I'm back from a great trip -- thanks one and all!
 

I had a wonderful experience in Peru and will look forward to sharing some of the highlights once I've settled back into my routine. In the meantime, many thanks to all of you!

Glad you had a great trip kja. Looking forward to hearing all about it!

@ crellston: Thanks! Peru is a special place, isn't it?

Looking forward to your trip report!

Welcoome home, kja! Looking forward to reading about your time in Peru.

@ marigross and
@ yestravel:
Thanks! It'll take me a while, but I'll definitely post a report.

It will be hard to wait but I know it will be worth it...

@ mlgb: I hope your optimism is justified, but make no promises. ;)

At long last, I have begun my trip report -- with thanks to all of you who helped me plan this amazing experience. :)
https://www.fodors.com/community/sou.../#post16760005