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Dec. 2018 in Chile/Argentina: Need your help planning!

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Dec. 2018 in Chile/Argentina: Need your help planning!

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Old Dec 18th, 2017, 11:17 AM
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Dec. 2018 in Chile/Argentina: Need your help planning!

Greetings, fellow Fodorites!

Been in hibernation quite a bit lately from the site and previously, mostly an active participant on the Asia boards--as that's where a great deal of our travel has been over the past few years.

That said, we've started to broaden our travel horizons a bit beyond Asia and I think we've settled on our 2018 trip plans and it's looking like a combination of both Chile and Argentina! This is a lifelong dream and we've even had a few botched attempts at an Argentina trip in the past--unfortunately something's always gotten in the way when we've tried to plan.

But, now, the calendar is cleared out for a 14-21 day trip (depending on what we decide to do) over Christmas and New Years. Yes, I know, probably not the cheapest time to go but it's the only time we can get that much time off of work, so that's the plan for now. I've accepted that already.

I've done some initial research these past few days and thinking a potentially flying into Santiago (from LAX) and working our way down to Patagonia and then back up through Argentina and then ending/flying out of BA.

Some places we're definitely interested in visiting (in no particular order or preference):
Santiago
Torres del Paine
Mendoza
Bariloche
Iguazu
Buenos Aires

Other than the fact that we'll likely fly into Santiago and out of BA, I'd love to get your input on a few things:

*Are the destinations listed above representative of a good 2.5-3 week trip? Are we missing anywhere that are must-sees? (We love food, wilderness/animals, and art, mostly--and are in our early 40s and active)
*Are any of the destinations listed above NOT worth a visit?
*What's the ideal # of days in each destination?
*Patagonia is the real dream destination on this trip for me. Are we covering it adequately with only one destination? (I feel like we are, but just making sure)

I hope I'm not being too general here but just trying to get a sense of the overview of the trip before I get too granular. Also mostly looking to validate the "in" and "out" points and the general length of the trip so I can book tickets early next year.

Many thanks in advance--look forward to your input!!
filmwill is offline  
Old Dec 18th, 2017, 12:17 PM
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I would say you need three weeks. Flying into Santiago and out of Buenos Aires is fine. If your real dream is to see Patagonia then you need to add a few destinations. We spent almost three weeks alone in just Southern Patagonia. I think I would take Mendoza out then and focus on the other destinations. Traveling around takes almost a day at least to get from place to place-distances are huge and you are limited to buses or your own car for many of them.

What do you like to do? I assume since Patagonia is your dream then you must at least enjoy hiking and natural beauty. If so, like us, we limited our days in Santiago and BsAs.

You need to add El Calafate for the Perito Moreno glacier and El Chalten for the famous Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre mountains (Mountain peaks outlined on he Patagonia clothing company's label). You should also consider San Martin de los Andes beyond Bariloche.

Your itinerary would look something like this:
Santiago-Punta Arenas (by plane)
Punta Arenas-Puerto Natales (by bus or car)
Puerto Natales-Torres del Paine (")
Torres-El Calafate (")
El Calafate-El Chalten (")
(drive back to El Calafate)-Bariloche (by plane)
Bariloche to San Martin (by car)
San Martin back to Bariloche (")
Bariloche-BsAs and on to Iguazu (by plane)
Iguazu-BsAs (by plane)
BsAs -USA

As you can see that already eats up at least 6-7 travel days as each one of those drives is 4-5 hours.

Here are our two trip reports. The first one was strictly Southern Patagonia (El Chalten, El Calafate, Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine, Punta Arenas). and the second one was Northern and Southern Patagonia (San Martin and El Chalten again):

https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...reath-away.cfm

https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...-patagonia.cfm

(I think parts of my second trip report are missing but it will give you an idea)
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Old Dec 18th, 2017, 05:41 PM
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I recognize your name from the Asia board. Nice to expand to SA...among other things, no jet lag.

Odie gives good advice. Definitely ditch Mendoza. As much as I loved IF I would save it for another trip. Do you like cities? I was disappointed in Santiago so would limit time there. However I love BA and if you enjoy big, buzzy cities, do spend at least a few days enjoying it. Click on my name for our 6 week’s in many of the same places. The one place we missed and I regret it is El Chalten.
We like a blend of cities and outdoors.
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Old Dec 18th, 2017, 07:49 PM
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I agree - drop Mendoza and add more Patagonia. Also, I thought the scenery easily outshone the cities, so limit your time in Santiago and Buenos Aires.

I would nix the suggested detour to San Martin if it bought time for Iguazu.

I criss-crossed the Andes and highly recommend the bus-boat-bus-boat crossing, but you may not have time.
http://www.cruceandino.com/cruce/EN/home/inicio#

For my TR: https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...-patagonia.cfm

Or with pix start here (skipping Rio):
https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...y-spectacular/
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Old Dec 20th, 2017, 08:48 AM
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I echo the advice others have given you so far. You won't have time for all the places you listed. If by active you mean hiking, then there are plenty of options for you in the Bariloche and El Chalten areas, as well as of course Torres del Paine. For wildlife, I saw some advertisements for animal safaris out of El Calafate but did not participate myself. Not on your list is Ushuaia, which may make a good choice for both hiking (Tierra del Fuego National Park) and wildlife (penguin colonies). I just spent 13 nights covering Buenos Aires, Bariloche, El Calafate, and Ushuaia last week; click on my name for my trip report if it interests you. I would put Iguazu high on the list, but save it for a future trip as you won't have time to do everything. I too enjoyed Buenos Aires more than I did Santiago.
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Old Dec 20th, 2017, 04:18 PM
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I didn't care for Buenos Aires. At All.

I would include a side trip to Valparaiso instead of very many days in Buenos Aires and in Santiago itself. You can go straight from the airport in Santiago to Valpo without backtracking into the city center. Stay up on Cerro Concepcion. Do a graffiti tour and visit one of the Neruda houses (one is in Santiago and one on the coast south of there).

Great graffiti art and the cable car, plus seafood as an option.

If you are from California I would not spend much time in the wine regions.

As far as one location in Patagonia, Torres del Paine is definitely the right choice over the other options. There are glaciers there also.


In peak season you may be able to fly from Santiago to Natales. If you want to see penguins the season is important. There may be a few at Seno Otway (no boat trip required).
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Old Dec 21st, 2017, 03:25 PM
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Seno Otway is closed or if it has reopened, there are few to no penguins at this site. Do not plan on seeing penguins here without checking on it first.
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Old Dec 21st, 2017, 04:01 PM
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Recent info from Google Maps reviews...I would check with a big tour company like Far South Expeditions or Comapa before heading out there in your own car...

"I tried to go here this morning, but the gate leading down that road was closed at 9:00am, with a sign to the right saying private property. Not sure if they open later, or if it’s just not accessible anymore. (The king penguins over on Isla Tierra Del Fuego were good though)."

'Please remove as a site from Google as this is no longer valid. The penguins do not hang out here as apparently they relocated due to coal mining ships and big boat traffic in the area. Unfortunately, there is still a big advertisement board on the main highway in Punta Arenas for Seno Otway.'

Chances are likely that the property owner has abandoned the commercial operation.(Penguins tend to return to where they were born, so there may still be some but you may not be able to access the beach or trails).
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Old Dec 25th, 2017, 03:21 PM
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If you can figure out a way to fit it in, I would recommend you take the boat/bus trip over the Andes from Bariloche to Puerto Montt. We used Cruce Andino - here is their website4. https://www.cruceandino.com/cruce/EN/home/inicio#
It is an amazing trip - takes all day. You cross several lakes, pass volcanoes, and see some amazing scenery. I am from California and have visited wine regions all over the world and love Mendoza. There is a great adventure area outside of the city where you can go for hiking, zip line, white water rafting, etc. Valparaiso is okay but can be seen in a few hours. Santiago is not worth visiting unless you love big cities.
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Old Dec 26th, 2017, 06:25 PM
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Happy Holidays, everyone!

You guys are AMAZING! Thank you so very much so far for all this advice so far.

As I mentioned before, I think my biggest priority right now is securing our in/out dates so I can book tix--but also figuring out our in/out dates in Patagonia since, as you'll see, we want to stay at some of the more in-demand places and that'll likely required reservations far in advance.

So, here's a hair-brained attempt at me sketching out a rough breakdown of our itinerary:

DAY 1 Depart from LAX
DAY 2 Arrive Santiago (stay in either Santiago or Valparaiso)
DAY 3 Santiago/Valparaiso
DAY 4 Fly to Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine (stay at either Awasi or Explora)
DAY 5 Torres del Paine
DAY 6 Torres del Paine
DAY 7 Torres del Paine
DAY 8 Transfer to El Calafate (Hotel TBD)
DAY 9 El Calafate
DAY 10 El Calafate
DAY 11 El Calafate
DAY 12 Fly to Bariloche (Hotel TBD)
DAY 13 Bariloche
DAY 14 Bariloche
DAY 15 Fly to Iguazu (via BA) (Hotel TBD)
DAY 16 Iguazu
DAY 17 Iguazu / Fly to BA
DAY 18 Buenos Aires (Hotel TBD)
DAY 19 Buenos Aires
DAY 20 Buenos Aires
DAY 21 Buenos Aires
DAY 22 Fly to LAX

Thoughts? Just trying to get a sense of the right amount of time in Patagonia--between TDP and El Calafate. Also, how much time is enough in Bariloche? It seems amazing there, but also a bit similar scenery-wise to the places we will have been coming from, no?

odie, your advice has been fantastic and I know you're a huge fan of El Chalten but I think we might need to forego in order to see Iguazu (it's just on my 'must' list and I am looking for a bit of variety in scenery on this trip also).

So, given the proposed above, some more questions:

*Is it too much in one place? Not enough in another?
*Still on the fence about Santiago vs Valparaiso. Love the vibe of Valparaiso (reminds me of Santa Teresa in Rio, which I love!) but also the hotels and options to see more seem better in Santiago.
*I know some folks don't love BA, but I feel like it's a must for us. Been wanting to go for a very long time. Super obsessed with the legacy of Juan & Eva Peron and just find the history of the city overall so utterly fascinating--so want enough time to absorb it. Could certainly do 3 nights if that's just as good as 4.
*Ushuaia was tempting, but I just can't do everything on this trip. Is there any place you'd recommend nearby the above that might afford good penguin viewing? Seems like some of the advice above is for a place that may or may not be open.
*As for Iguazu, is it worth spending the dough to get on the Brazilian side just for the view? That said, the hotel options seem better on the Brazilian side rather than the Argentinian side.

Getting so excited to figure this all out, thanks to you all!
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 05:11 AM
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Magdalena island of the ferry to Tierra del Due to for pengies.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 05:11 AM
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Porvenir ferry from Punta Arenas.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 05:34 AM
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I thought Valpo much more interesting than Santiago. If you go, take a tour that includes the graffiti.

Are you hiking TdP? Because that might be too much time otherwise.

I did not find the scenery in Bariloche similar to TdP or El Calafate, but definitely worth seeing in its own right. Since you are not taking the bus-boat tour across the Andes, do take a boat trip on the lake.

I though the Brazilian side at Iguazu was worthwhile, but I didn't have to pay for the visa.

Brazilian side photos: https://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/...Iguazu-Brazil/

Argentinian side photos: https://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/...a-2012/Iguazu/

In Buenos Aires I recommend the graffiti tour:
http://graffitimundo.com

See: https://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/...es-Street-Art/
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 07:56 AM
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Santiago was a huge disappointment for me. Really liked Valparasio though. You can go straight from the airport to Valparaiso. Santiago is a big city with big, glitzy hotels. Valparasio is very different and far more charming.

I also found Bariloche sort of dull for lack of a better word. The lake area is nice though, just the town I didn't like. Has a fake Swiss/alpine look. Have you thought about driving the 7 Lakes drive to San Martin de los Andes? It's a nice little town and the drive is scenic. You can't compare the scenery to TdP which is gorgeous.

What are your plans for el Calafate? We walked around one day and trekked Puerto Merino another. I believe there are some hikes you can do, but not sure what else is there to do.

OTOH I loved TdP. We did some hikes, but enjoyed driving around and taking it all in.

I am a huge Falls fan, but we skipped the Brazilian side. We just didnt feel like the hassle of getting the visa and going over. The ARG side is pretty stunning.

I love BA! It's a big city with lovely parks, nice museums, great cafes and some really good restaurants.

Overall I think your pacing is fine -- it's not rushed at all. You could cut a day from TdP and 1 from el Calafate if you wanted to. Depends upon the speed with which you like to travel. We now enjoy a very leisurely pace so I like your pace.
Here's our TR from Chile/ARG
https://www.fodors.com/community/sou...-chile-arg.cfm
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 09:48 AM
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Pretty much agree with Yestravel’s comments re Bariloche and the seven lakes drive to San Martin de Los Andes.

I would definitely recommend seeing both sides of the falls. The Argentine side is all about getting up close to the falls whereas the Brazilian side provides a much more panoramic perspective. In the context of your probable expenditure for the whole trip, I would say it is worth it. Puerto Igauazu has a lot of middling places to stay but nothing exceptional as I recall. There is a hotel in the park itself which may add convenience but it is a bit of a concrete monstrosity. If you stay in town there are loads of restaurants to choose from but I would recommend sourcing and booking in advance or expect to queue for th better ones.

Definitely stay in Valparaiso rather than Santiago. Easy to get there from the airport although it does take a couple of hours as I recall, so a lot will depend on your flight timings if you only have one night there.

In BA we have always taken apartments rather than stayed in hotels. Last time we used https://www.oasiscollections.com/buenos-aires/search and were very happy. A fantastic apartment with loads of added benefits like concierge service, access to a private memebers club, limo transfer to and from the airport etc.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 10:28 AM
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In BA my friend stayed at the Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau, in Recoleta.

Just don't go to that restaurant that MarnieDC recommends...
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 12:04 PM
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Do you happen to have a restaurant name? Give that she is a regular in BA I imagine she has lots of recommendations some of which I have eaten in on our trips to BA.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 01:25 PM
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El Mirasol de la Recova, the one under the freeway. Average food, average (or worse) service, and too pricey for what you get. As I've said a few times, the cruise ship's free steaks were better.

Marnie seems to think I don't eat or know anything about steak and don't know what I'm talking about. Although my protein of choice is fish (or lamb or venison), I do have some frame of reference with both US raised and grass fed beef. (Including not one, but two friends who are in the business of supplying prime beef to restaurants, so..) And yes, my dining companion at the same restaurant (who eats a lot of beef), agreed with me.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 04:34 PM
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I also recommend seeing both sides of the falls. If you do that plan on 2 nights hotel stay. I did this in Feb this year in advance of a cruise. I flew from/to Buenos Aires AEP to Puerto Iguazu IGR. Hotel was a really good choice. It is in town and not the jungle, Jardin de Iguazu. http://www.jardindeiguazu.com.ar/.
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Old Dec 27th, 2017, 05:48 PM
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I agree with Yestravel on dropping a night from El Calafate. Three nights in Bariloche work but make sure you do a driving tour, some walks in the national Paarl, and / or getting out on the lake. You could probably drop a night from BA as well; if you want to Peron, book a visit to tour Casa Rosada (it is free although you need to reserve it a couple of weeks in advance); there is also an Evita museum although we didn't have time. I agree with Crellston on seeing both sides of Iguazu although it would mean you would want another night.
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