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fuzzy Feb 6th, 2010 09:18 AM

Buenos Aires - San Telmo Market on Easter Sunday?
We will be arriving for our first visit to Argentina on the Saturday before Easter Sunday. Trying to organize a tentative itinerary for our time in BA and wondered if anybody knows whether the San Telmo market will be happening on Easter Sunday. Also curious as to whether restaurants will be open that day. If not, any suggestions for activities/things to see/places to eat, etc. on the holiday?

avrooster Feb 6th, 2010 09:37 AM

Easter Sunday in BA is just like any other Sunday, except for the fact that it is a long weekend and there may be less people around.

Have a great time in our country, fuzzy.

fuzzy Feb 6th, 2010 10:28 AM

Thanks, avrooster. I've been lurking on this forum for awhile, planning this trip, and you always seem to have the answers. Your help is certainly appreciated.

I was hoping Easter Sunday wouldn't be a "lost" day. Our trip is going to be a whirlwind, not enough time to do all we would like. Just four nights in BA, three in El Calafate, then one last night in BA. We'll be running, but we've taken a lot of suggestions from these forums and think we've identified some of the highlights. Looking forward to it!

fuzzy Feb 6th, 2010 11:21 AM

Avrooster - I saw a post hinting that you don't think La Cabrera is the most outstanding restaurant. Realizing that everyone's tastes are unique, I respect your opinion - if we visit only one parilla in BA, which one should it be? Is Fervor the best seafood? Where are the best empanadas? I value the quality of the food, then the ambiance comes in second, and often find that what you pay for your meal has little relation to its quality.
If you'd rather not spoil your favorite places by announcing your choices on this forum, I can give you an email address. Can you help?

Bamita Feb 6th, 2010 12:57 PM

Hi Fuzzy, thanks for asking that question for me! Also my 1st time in Argentina and arriving just before Easter Sunday for five days. Very happy to hear the markets will be open.

We are then flying to Cordoba and need to get to Villa Maria. I have been unable to find any bus schedules on the internet and am hoping Avrooster sees this and can give me advice where to look.

avrooster Feb 7th, 2010 04:57 AM

Some answers later today.

avrooster Feb 7th, 2010 08:48 AM


There MUST be a good reason why La Cabrera is such a hit with tourists, but I don't quite "get it". The steaks are good and they serve them with a number of small side plates people love. However, I feel it is crowded, noisy and extremely touristy. So, it's your choice.

Fervor is NOT a seafood restaurant. But it IS probably among the best in town for grilled fish. They also serve grilled meat, but it is nothing out of this world. Be sure to avoid their egg salad, as I have it on "good authority" that it's not too good.

For great empanadas and our Northern regional food, try "El Sanjuanino", next door to Fervor, on Posadas street.

I have lived out of town, in the suburbs of BA, for the last 35 years, so I'm not any kind of authority on the best places for dinner in BA. A very short list: Sottovoce for Italian, Oviedo for Spanish food and seafood

These two places are relatively upscale.

As your stay is short, I feel you should concentrate of our steakhouses, called "parrillas". There are many, many such restaurants. If you are willing to leave the usual touristy areas, you can try "La Despensa". The steaks are pretty good, but don't miss their "special" Provoletta, with pineapple and bacon, as an appetizer. The service is uneven, at best, however.

If you know any Spanish, this website can help you choose.

Have a great time in our country.

avrooster Feb 7th, 2010 08:59 AM


I assume you mean Villa María, in the province of Córdoba, as there is at least one more town by that name.

I tried this website and got a bunch of results for bus travel from Córdoba to Villa María, in Córdoba.

Have a great time in our country.

fuzzy Feb 7th, 2010 10:32 AM

Avrooster -

Thanks again! I appreciate very much your recommendations (and yes, I read the episode about the egg salad - sad, and I congratulate you for persevering when we ask for help. I don't know you, but I feel that I like you for what you do).

Like most tourists, we want to see what we can of the "real" Buenos Aires and if we don't see another tourist, we're happy. For that reason, coupled with your recommendation, La Despensa will be very high on our list.

The other suggestions were already on my list (how many meals can we eat in 4 days?), some from your posts and some from the TA best restaurant forum (thanks, DrDawwgy). I'm almost omnivorous (don't like curry), but the wife is slightly more picky. Sounds like we've got some winners.

It's time to get back to my Rosetta Stone - Latin American Spanish lesson. Thank you one more time for your help!

avrooster Feb 8th, 2010 01:19 AM

Keep in mind that La Despensa is in the Southern end of BA, in a neighbourhood called "Barracas" and will require a longer than normal taxi ride.

If you go, when you leave, be sure to ask them to CALL a reputable taxi company for you.

fuzzy Feb 8th, 2010 07:11 AM

Will do, and thanks again for your advice!

condu Feb 8th, 2010 11:14 AM

I was not completely, won over by La Cabrera. The restaurant was packed, hot, & noisy. The service was almost non existent. But, they honored our reservations even though we were half an hour late. (We got lost.) LOL!
The Caesar salad for two was ample for the four of us as a starter. It was brimming with fresh romaine, chicken, crispy pancetta, a delicious
dressing & freshly grated Parmesan. Our stuffed steak was cooked medium rare, as requested. Not easy, to cook a stuffed steak to perfection!
Our friend's thyme infused steak was cooked, as requested.
But, I found all the little side dishes that they served to be tasteless, bland, and so murky that I couldn't figure out what they were supposed to be. I would probably, give this restaurant a 7.5 out of 10.

I enjoyed the Parrilla experience at La Payuca, a lot more. Lovely
ambiance, friendly service even though our waiter only spoke Spanish, and all the food was well presented and prepared.
They had several little side dishes that were fresh & flavorful. The cutting board salsa was bright & spicy, the way I like it. There was
a tomato puree sauce that we ate with our crispy papas fritas, a parsley & garlic sauce similar to pesto, and chimichurri sauce.
These all went well with our lomo & pollo brochettes. These side dishes are included with your main course.

I agree with AVrooster that El Sanjauanino makes very good empanadas.
As does, Cumana (where we like everything we tasted over several visits) and Cupertina's carrot & cheese empanada is my all time favorite!

I will be writing a comprehensive report on the restaurants that I ate at when I return in weeks time. Watch for it! I will tell it like it is!

avrooster Feb 8th, 2010 11:59 AM

Condu seems to know her restaurants and broadly agrees with me about La Cabrera!!!

fuzzy Feb 8th, 2010 12:59 PM

That's the first I've heard of La Payuca. The website makes it look good - which location did you try, Condu?

condu Feb 8th, 2010 01:56 PM

I tried the Palermo location as it is walking distance from our apartment. (But, saying that, we also, walked home from Recoleta
one day. La Payuca is even nicer than their website. I like that it
is not in all the guide books. I have found that some of the highly
touted places in the guide books were a disappointment! Several places
that we ate were barely even on the internet, local places, not full of
tourists, & pretensions. But, we had a month to find these places. Not
four nights!

SusanInToronto Feb 8th, 2010 02:58 PM

Condu, thanks for posting. We're going to Buenos Aires at the end of the month, and I had pretty well decided that I wasn't going to go to La Cabrera. Most reviews are good, but it just didn't appeal to me! But La Payuca sounds like something I would enjoy.

condu Feb 8th, 2010 03:54 PM

Be sure to read my trip report on BA in a couple of weeks. I will offer some interesting alternatives for restaurants in BA.

crellston Feb 9th, 2010 12:03 AM

Totally agree with condu's comments re La Payuca. I highly recommend it. It was our favourite parrilla during our month in BA. We must have visited the Palermo location which was just along the street from our apartment 4 or 5 times during our stay. On one occasion we ordered bife de chorizo to share. The waiter cut it in half at our table with a SPOON. Possibly one of the top three steaks I have eaten anywhere.

We were lucky enough to be taken to Fervour by avrooster and Mrs Avrooster and I can also confirm that the grilled fish is excellent - I had the "white" salmon which was amazing. However, as Avrooster says, probably best to avoid the egg salad!!

avrooster Feb 9th, 2010 01:22 AM

Bamita: I have no way of knowing whether or not you read my answer to your question higher up in this thread, but another website I found for bus tickets from Cordoba to Villa Maria is

Have a great time in our country.

fuzzy Feb 9th, 2010 10:30 AM

OK, La Payuca is definitely on the list. La Cabrera is now relegated to the back-up list. Thanks, all, for the advice! I think we're going to enjoy our brief time in Argentina - we certainly won't starve.

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