BsAs and Beyond ...Three Weeks In April
 

First and most importantly...a big thankyou to all the Fodorites that helped us with our trip to previously unknown territory. Your advice was invaluable.
The last time I wrote a trip report on this Forum, I received some criticism regarding how it was written and I vowed 'never again' to bother. However, I find this SA forum to be a little more forgiving and mature so I'll give it a go and apologize for any errors in advance.
We are in our late 60's and decided on a fresh destination...BsAs for our 45th wedding anniversary celebration. We chose an apt in the Recoleta district based on a recommendation and the comments on VRBO. Although our unit was sold before we arrived and the owner's previous offer of assistance during our stay, ceased to happen, it still proved to be a very good choice. Managed by Poetry, it is a lovely old renovated building in the Belle Epoque style. Very well situated with the management most accomodating friendly and helpful....we would certainly stay there again.
Our one BIG mistake was in not learning an adequate amount of Spanish .We missed being able to really connect with the friendly Portenos....such lovely people.
We used the collectivos (a challenge in figuring out) and the Subte ( requiring a bit of a hike to access). We of course used many taxis and only got a 'run around' from a couple of drivers. We were warned about giving a driver a 100p note and avoided that possible scam.Generally speaking most were honest and some delightful in tolerating our lack of Spanish .
We were a little overwhelmed with the city on first arriving. Seeing the garbage, graffiti,and crumbling sidewalks was definitely offputting.We soon learned to focus on the positive aspects and plunged into daily living in the big city of BsAs.

Thank you, minx, for calling us "more forgiving and mature"!

I'm certainly "mature" and more, at least as far as my age is concerned, not so sure about "forgiving".

I see I answered some of your pre-trip questions. Glad to have been of help.

Am I correct in expecting the next chapter of your so far great trip report?

How soon should we expect you back?

Glad u learned to focus on the very many positive aspects of BA of which the people are surely one. Would love to hear more.
Mature, huh? hmmmm AV can attest that I am a mere child...

Well thankyou for the encouragement to move on. I do know much of what I say...has already been stated before and by much better informed travellers and locals than ourselves.
And so suitably encouraged...
I had read so much about bafreetour.com prior to departure and felt that would be our best means of introduction to the big city. Oh my...they were sooo fantastic.... informed us and turned us to a very postive way of viewing the city. We did the Aristocratic Tour first because we were too 'pooped' to make the 11 o'clock City tour. Well, my DH was sceptical prior to..but we arrived and waited at San Martin Plaza for the guide and the group. And there we all were. What a wonderful tour! SOL was amazing!...we learned so much and saw so much during our walk.We then took advantage of the 11 o'clock City tour the following day and enjoyed a similar experience with Gaston. Travellers...this is VERY worthwhile. We loved it...the whole group likewise. What incredible enthusiasm these people show for their city. It involves you and entices you.Very much recommended and kudos to Sol & Gaston for awakening a passion for their city in us.

The Recolta Cemetary...we went three different times.It was an easy walk from our apt.Huge in scope it never failed to leave us amazed at all the family views on death. Such huge monuments that must have seemed the only proper way to honour the deceased.(There were actually 3 funerals while we were there). Our second visit was with a guide..a lovely lady. Very informative and worthwhile....we viewed the most interesting tombs. The last time we were again visiting on our own and we spent several hours with map in hand wandering through.I felt if I lived in BsAs I could go there every week.A most fascinating place.
Afterwards we would always wander over to La Biela. I was determined to find this famous spot and once we did we spent many sunny afternoons under the humungous gum tree. Our charming waiter Daniel made every visit even more special. And the food was good too! Regret...never returning for a piece of the mile high lemon meringue pie.

Bits and pieces...A Friendly Welcome!
Just arrived we wandered about completely sleep deprived and overwhelmed. We stopped and looked into the window of Olla de Felix. looked cute..'the waiter' responding to our knock, told us they would not open until 9. We had hours to wait but made a reservation. After spending another 30 minutes wandering about in a daze we realized our bodies were running out of steam.We decided to crash. We returned to cancel our reservation and changed it to the following evening. The wonderfully smiling and accomodating 'waiter' appeared totally nonplussed and said he would put the reserve sign on that table the next night. Again...a lovely understanding welcome. We ate something quick and easy and slept and slept. The next evening arrived at Olla de Felix and had a delicious well prepared meal and a most enjoyable fun time. Thankyou Marie-Therese and of course...Felix...the 'waiter' Based on this we would return for our last night in BsAs and have a terrific send-off

Tango shows...well we only have one to report on.... Esquina Carlos Gardel. It was difficult deciding with so many to choose from.And although we were packed in like sardines and the meal was only adequate,the performance was most enjoyable and that is really why we went.
We took the #29 bus to La Boca one day and watched the dancers there as well. They were suprisingly good and we had a great time sitting outdoors enjoying some vino and watching the shows. Loved that area despite the 'touristy' aspect of it. We had hoped to return another time but that didn't happen.
Hope this is helpful so far and that it's okay to be doing these mini installments.

I like your mini installments. Gives ME a great idea for future trips.

keep them coming!

Teatro Colon..How timely that it was finally reopened for tours and our stay in BsAs.
The outside in no way prepares you for the opulent interior.We booked an English tour on arrival to the Opera House..it was excellent and most informative and very much worth the price.We were free to take pictures throughout until... we entered the Golden Room. Oh how I would have loved to have sneaked off a shot but didn't want to be banished and miss the remainder of the tour. It was incredibly beautiful. Our tour guide informed us that if we were to get up very early the next morning and wait in line for 3 hours we may be able to snag FREE tickets for 'The Grand Macabre' that was being performed. We had pretty much decided that is what we would do when I read online that it was being performed sans orchestra because the musicians were still on strike. We slept in and I am still not sure that was the smart thing to have done.Just to sit in the seats to see ANYTHING there may have been well worth a 3 hour wait in line.

Thank you, minx!

Keep up the good work!

Thanks for that avrooster. Time for another installment then.
COLONIA del Sacramento...Well we spent a good deal of time trying to decide if we would go there or to Montevideo. Because we could visit Colonia as a day trip and thought we would need at least 1 possibly 2 night's stay in a hotel if we went to Montevideo,we chose Colonia. In hindsight it was probably not the right choice for us. But first things first, getting there was easy.We didn't book online as we had some issues with the computer.Instead we took ourselves down to the Buquebus terminal and bought our tickets there. (A nice excuse actually to revisit Puerto Madero). A relatively simple proceedure as we had already chosen our dates and times and could point out our selections at the ticket office.We booked 2 days in advance after hearing of people arriving the day of for tickets and not getting their selection. Our departure was at 8:30am and our return trip at 8:40pm. We thought this would allow us ample time to see the sights.The ferry ride was most enjoyable. The customs merely a formality at both ends...you must have a passport.We did not choose first class and didn't see any reason that we should have. The boat was spacious and the ride fast and smooth owing to calm waters. Arriving we took a while getting orientated and began walking with map in hand. It was early and the town was 'sleepy'. However it seemed to retain that sleepy feeling throughout the day. Off season perhaps why? We stopped for an early lunch...very nice outdoors...sorry can't remember where but overlooking the lovely square with the beautiful flowering trees. We then purchased a Museum pass and spent a short time visiting them all. Some were a bit of a stretch to be even termed museum.Then we paid our pesos and climbed up for a view from the lighthouse. At that point in time we still had hours and hours to spend before our return trip back to BsAs. We wandered about ..went in some shops, churches and tried to figure how we were going to fill the remainder of the day. With a storm approaching my DH thought of returning to the terminal and trying to get an earlier trip back. I thought it might pose a problem but apparantly it's done often and we were on our way 'home' when the rainstrom hit. How fortuitous. I praised DH's executive decision heartily. And so...for our efforts we can say we visited Uruguay.I have lovely pictures of some old colourful bldgs...as well as countless pics of sleeping dogs throught the town. This tickled my fancy as Colonia seemed such a 'snoozy' type place. To be fair, we never ventured to the beaches that are supposed to be very nice but I still don't think that would have changed our viewpoint a great deal.On returning to BsAs the rainstorm raged and the taxis refused any pick-ups from the Port. No one seemd to know why. We were sodden by the time we walked miles and found a sympathetic taxi driver to take us home. Arriving at our apt, we were asked how we enjoyed Colonia..I hummed and hawed because I didn't want to say how I quite honestly felt in the event I hurt anyone's feelings. So announced that I thought "we must have missed something". The fellow shook his head and told us that when his father had visited him the month earlier, he had sent him to Colonia for the day. The father returned...(early) and when asked the same question he replied... "friends do not send friends to Colonia". That's probably a little harsh and I'm sure many would disagree. It wasn't far off our impression however.And not having seen Montevideo I might be inclined to advise going there instead. And I now expect to get chastised for all Colonia lovers for this installment.lol

Thank you for this chapter, Minx, even if it is negative!

Do you know what the above deleted comment said? Was it someone "chastising" you? LOL!!!

Nope never had a chance to view it..hmmm...must have been pretty bad to disappear that fast. Oh well, encouraged by you, avrooster I will bash on with more reports later.That last being my one and only truly negative report I promise and actually despite the sounds of it..it was not a totally regretable experience.

Thank you, Minx, just "keep on trucking"! LOL!!!

Enjoying your TR, thanks for reporting. I think the comment removed was a poster, Bender, advertising a hotel website--he was on a bunch of threads.

Thanks for the encouragement...and so let's move on to more positive territory.
PALACIO BAROLO....although this was never on our todo list for whatever reason we thankfully encountered this beautiful bldg while on our bafreetour walk with Gaston and learned it was open for tours. I went on the web and booked the evening tour with [email protected]. With the lure of a very different nightime experience and sharing a glass of vino afterwards, it seemed the more attractive choice. PB was completed in 1923 by the Italian architect Palanti. It is built in accordance with Dante's Divine Comedy and that theme is present throughout.We met with Tomas and he took a group of us from Hell to Heaven with a short stint in Purgatory.It was a fun and diverse group..english and spanish speaking and Tomas adroitly managed both.We had some lovely vantage points for pictures overlooking the city and Plaza Congresso. The best part was climbing up into the lighthouse and having Tomas put the HUGE light on..It lit the sky AND the dome of the Congress..Beautiful! then a trip down to the rooftop for more pictures while the light was still shining. A glass of Palacio Barolo vino in Tomas' office and interesting conversation amongst the group ended a terrific tour of a unique building. We eventually departed and went in search of a late dinner...(never a problem). We both felt this tour is a must experience.

Today I'll discuss the Museums we visited.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes...
A very imposing bldg...turns out it was a former pump house belonging to the Recoleta Sanitation Facilities before it became MNBA. It looks to be having a much needed renovation. Some lovely exhibits but several rooms closed.Mildly disappointing.
Museo Evita...
sparse but so very interesting. Amazing old newsreels and movies of Evita.Some of her dresses, hats ect. A powerful woman....she accomplished a great deal for her descamisados. The Evita Museum Cafe is a little gem and we had a delicious lunch out on the patio afterwards. It was cool that particular day..the waiters distributed 'wraps' to the ladies.Now how nice is that.
Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo...
simply beautiful! The former residence of the Alvear/Errazuriz turned museum. The actual bldg itself is worth the visit..the collection of treasures in it...astounding. Again great dining at Croque Madame outside in the patio adjacent to the gatehouse
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires.. 'The MALBA'..
Loved it...Big, bright and airey. And ooooh those benches..I wanted to take a picture of them soooo bad.We found some of the pieces that we had hoped to see at the MNBA were on temporary loan to the MALBA. But the major highlight for me(besides the benches) was the Frida Kahlo. Stunning! We did NOT eat at this museum afterwards because alas, it was jammed. Apparantly the cafe gets rave reviews.

Thanks for your report. We visited some of the same places you did and about the same time you were there, april 15-24 (much too short a stay!). We also enjoyed bus rides, the subway, watching tango, malba, the tour with Gaston. One morning I was up early walking through san telmo, watching shops open, people washing sidewalks, heading for work. Reading trip reports helps us plan trips and remember what we enjoyed. Thanks!

You are most welcome and thankYOU.I really must wrap this report up soon.I don't know how long you can drag these out.lol There are still a few remaining places and things I wish to comment on.Sadly,it's all fading fast.I was thinking that I wish we could have a Spring season as lovely as the BsAs' Fall season that we were so fortunate to tap into...we never expected such warm sunny days. Not sure that was the norm...avrooster?? But thankfully I packed for all contingencies. Obviously you enjoyed that weather as well santamonica.

As the famous song says: "Never let it fade away!"

Well, Minx, you always need a little luck with the weather anywhere, but our early fall is usually wonderful.

When should we expect you back?

I am presuming you mean 'back' to the Forum to finish?...or perhaps to BsAs?

I meant back to BA, but now I mean both! LOL!!!

I've been tardy...Apologies if anyone has been waiting.
Let's talk about food.
One would never starve while visiting BsAs. THE most wonderful thing about this city was the fact we could find a nice restaurant open at just about any time of the night. None of this..."sorry..kitchen's closed" at 10pm. We enjoyed many meals after 11 pm with the restaurant still bustling....the waiters never appeared to be anxious to close or in any rush whatsoever.
The Argentine beef of course gets most of the deserved credits. It is phenomenal let there be no doubt. And apparantly Portenos have a 'sweet tooth' because the incredible ooey-gooey dulce de lece treats abounded. And the helado...(maybe better than any gelato we had in Italy). All that being said we found 'presentation' somewhat lacking. Even in the best restaurants food appears to be basic and served simply. The wine of course,both tinto and blanco....simply outstanding!
We went to several reviewed and recommended restaurants... Fervour, El Mirasol, Sette Baco, Sotto Voce as well as many that were happy 'by chance' finds...Olla de Felix, Tea Connection, Aires Criollos to name a few. Certainly the many museum restaurants were a delightful surprise as were neighbourhood pizza joints and grills.And then there was the 'take out'. Every restaurant no matter the size has deliveries going out by foot,bike, motorcycle, car and truck. One even sees the waiters with trays in hand walking down the street with a delivery.The Portenos seem to take great pleasure in dining.We N.A. could learn alot.This love of food and taking the time to enjoy it with friends and family was apparant everywhere ,at all hours. Even a cup of coffee seems to be a special pleasure...no running about with take out cups here.
The above restaurants were all quite good. One mistake on our part was sharing a large cut of beef at El Mirasol. My DH asked for medium rare. When it arrived and was cut in half to plate, I should have then returned it for more cooking.Instead I ate it with averted eyes.Delicious but I felt like a jungle animal.This is also where we encountered our first BsAs zabaglione with walnuts and also THE most delicious zabaglione we have ever had in our lives. Loaded with booze..it probably contained a bijillion calories...but worth every one.After that we started to search it out on ALL the dessert menus.
One more comment relating to food and restaurants...The Waiters.
Most of ours were extremely friendly, generous and helpful. The majority dressed very fine indeed.One had the sense that they regard their job as an honourable occupation and most did that job with great dignity. It didn't seem to matter the size or level of the dining establishment.
I have a couple more installments and then I'll wrap this report up. Next one is on our time at Iguazu Falls and as it was my/our all time most beautiful experience...it could be very long indeed.

Thank you, Minx for a great job!

When should we expect you back in BA? LOL!!

I now see why people don't finish trip reports. Installments may be a good idea but even doing it that way once you are home it's hard to sit and write about things past.
Must, must talk about Iguazu Falls. There was so much info prior to regarding what, where, when and why and we delved into it all and made our choices. Most of them were perfect but one was a BIG mistake. I'll deal with that now. We never went to the Brazil side of the Falls. Sadly we were totally involved every minute on the AR side and when we tried to sqeeeze that side trip in...well, too late and NO Visa. I knew all this prior and thought it didn't matter. It does. To do this journey and not include the Brazil side was just plain stupid. Okay that's off my 'chest' Let's concentrate on what we did do and did see.
First off I will say that Iguazu Falls is probably THE most awesome experience I/we have ever had in all our travels. I truly thought the Grand Canyon would beat anything but...have to say..Iguazu Falls is my faraway dream place.
After researching flights, accomodations ect we decided to leave it all in the hands of wowargentina.com. I sent the times and choices of hotels and they put together a pkg that was almost the same price as we could put together. They were great! Even before leaving I had sent an e.mail expressing sadness at the boat trip being closed down. They actually followed up and sent us an update when we were in BsAs that the boat trip was back on. I thought that was excellent. Sadly though it appears they may no longer be in operation...does anyone know? It all went smoothly however and we were picked up at the airport in Iguazu as promised. Arrived at the Sheraton...(what a big decision that was from a cost standpoint) And thankyou to everyone who said one MUST stay there. I walked into the lobby and gasped at the view. I guess we had ourselves geared for substandard accomodations at a inflated price. Well, the building itself leaves much to be desired but the rooms are spacious clean and comfortable and as we chose a superior room with a beautiful Falls view...it would hard to find a complaint. We found the staff incredibly friendly and accomodating. Sadly no monkeys on our balcony but we did sit and watch the tucans fly by.It was a perfect place to be and worth every penny. The breakfast was very good, lots of variety (complete with champagne & orange juice) that would send us off for the day's adventures with full stomachs. We enjoyed a fairly good dinner there as well one evening.Honestly the Sheraton overall was a very good experience. And a BIG thankyou for giving us a late check-out on our last day. What a bonus!
The Falls...we loved being able to walk there from our Hotel. They are so spectacularly awesome that words and pictures cannot begin to express that fact. The work on the walkways and lookouts... an amazing engineering feat. We were so happy to be able to take the boat ride and that was a particular favourite of mine. The train...the butterfies, the birds, the coatis. the walk over the river to the MOST AWESOME Devil's Throat literally blew my mind.We also took an ecological side trip down the river that was most enjoyable although english wasn't spoken...we figured it out somehow.We tried to be at the Falls as much as possible and thankfully had high water and stellar weather. This is a MUST Do side trip if you go to BsAs.
One night we took a 'taxi' into town for dinner. We went to Aqva reataurant in Puerto Iguazu for a change of pace. It was very good...both the service and the food. Afterwards we enjoyed a chat with the owner. He had a great knowledge of the food and hospitality industry and had travelled the world..(actually at one time on our doorstep) A nice evening and worth the expensive taxi ride there and back.Wish we could have seen more of Puerto Iguazu. It actually looked quite a bit more prosperous than I had expected.
So as you can tell Iguazu Falls was another highlight of this whole amazing trip.

Thank you, Minx, for a great report on Iguazú!