Glad to hear you found some hats you liked!

We picked up our Avis rental car at the Cuenca airport and painlessly navigated our way to the Pan-American Highway. What followed was another of the most spectacular drives of our lives - except this time we were in charge. Our route took us through sinuous mountain curves, along side precipices and through swiftly-moving fog banks - or all three at once. We stopped for photos and a roadside lunch; we passed other opportunities because we wanted to arrive at Baños before dark. The roads were in excellent condition and Ecuadorian drivers were relatively sane. The only real hassle was occasionally getting trapped in a queue behind a slow-moving uphill-bound truck. We made it to Baños in about seven hours - not too shabby given our periodic stops.

Baños is physically spectacular, a small town perched in near-vertical green mountains above the swiftly-flowing Pastaza River. Our inn, the Aldea Real Eco Resort, was on a side street about a kilometer outside of town. Our room overlooked the Pastaza and the river's distant roar was to serve as a constant backdrop to our stay. That first night, uncomfortable with night driving in an unfamiliar town, we took a cab into Baños ($2) for dinner at the Swiss Bistro. We also arranged with our driver for a two hour excursion the following day. The Swiss Bistro had superb canelazos, excellent fondue, a good salad and desultory service. After dinner, we walked back to our hotel.

The next day, the previous night's driver's father (!) showed up for the tour. Basically it was a two hour ($20) excursion down the Pastazo. We stopped at several waterfalls, including the beautiful Mantel de la Novia (Bridal Veil) falls, where I took a $1 cable car ride across the river and back. We skirted a series of tunnels and ended up at the spectacular Pailon del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron) falls. We took the "short" hike down almost to the bottom of the falls; the close-up views of the falls were incredible. We drove back via the tunnels and were back at our hotel within the allotted two hours. (Note: A similar trip can be made by rented bicycle with a truck back to town from Pialon del Diablo; the roadway paralleling the river follows the river's gradual descent, making for an enjoyably indolent ride.)

We spent the afternoon on foot exploring the town and having a so-so lunch at Don Enrique restaurant. The town is geared towards backpackers and adventure travel. Fortunately, as we were there in the rainy - misty really - season, it wasn't crowded. That night we drove to a recommended restaurant in town, Carpe Diem, which provided outsized portions of outstanding Italian food. The gnocchi with pesto and the tiramisu were particularly good.

The next day, our last, we started by driving to the nearby Bella Vista, which provided spectacular views of Baños and the Pastaza gorge. Then we continued on to the Casa del Arbol, where YT and I enjoyed some time on the swings that arc out over the downward sloping landscape. Then we both took a cable ride that zipped us down a gently sloping hill about two feet off the ground - kind of like a sedate version of a treetop zip line. After Casa del Arbol, we drove back down the mountain to Luna Runtun Adventure Spa. For a mere $20 apiece, we were allowed to luxuriate in their outside pools. YT also opted for a facial. The pools consisted of a jacuzzi, two other heated tubs and an infinity pool to. All four were on a hillside with great views of Baños. YT left after a while for her relaxing facial, while I spent the better part of an hour going from pool to pool. After she returned from her facial, we had a superb late lunch at their Aptly-named Cafe del Cielo.

We returned to Carpe Diem that night for our final dinner. The owners greeted us as if we were old friends, We shared a plate of their superb gnocchi with pesto and followed it with his and her tiramisu desserts. Our time in Baños was at an end. We liked Baños and would recommend it, especially for people who enjoy activities requiring protective head gear.

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Sorry for typos...spellcheck and iPads don't seem to get along.

I also enjoyed Banos , although I went to the public baths and took the Chiva bus to the Devil's Cauldron. I am neither a backpacker nor an adventure tourist.

Going low-rent was a great way to meet Ecuadorean tourists.

I was able to get a brief glimpse of Tunguhara by walking across the bridge and uphill. It didn't last long!

Mlgb, Lucky you seeing Tunguhara. We have yet to see a volcano this trip, always clouds. We're in Latacunga for a couple days and hope to be able to see Cotapoxi. It's closed to hiking at the moment, but I understand you can still get into the park. We'll see. Btw we're at Villa de Tacvnga where I think you stayed. It's a Sunday and the town is deserted and all shuttered up, but pretty at night. The Chiva buses looked like fun, but given I was still nursing my back, I was concerned about the jousting and several people we asked said it was a bumpy ride.

Hi Marnie and WTB, glad you're still following along. I added to my hat collection by buying an Ecuadorian knit hat at Lake Quilotoa because it was freezing and windy. It came in handy at night at Black Sheep Inn with an altitude of 10,500. Where I will ever where it again, I don't know!

On driving ourselves- we love road trips and are sorry we got scared off of driving for the entire time in Ecuador. There are some of the best roads in Ecuador where they heavily invested in their infrastructure about 5 years ago. Where we have been, driving is easy. It's so nice to stop where you want, picnic off the road and just enjoy the glorious scenery without the windows fogging up or the curtain impeding your view.

Hope you have the nice upstairs suite at VdT, and you get a glimpse of any volcano.

I recommend the ice cream shop on the corner.

First they moved us to the top floor suite, but it had some noise from some laundry room stuff going on? Not sure, what, but the guy knew exactly what when we went to say something was banging continually. Now we are in the 2nd floor suite. Had ice cream for dessert last night at the place next door and it was very good.

Drizzly this am and still a touch cloudy so we're going to try for tomorrow for Cotopaxi. i'm amazed we haven't caught even a glimps of the top of some volcano. When we were in Chile we were seeing them constantly. Even Sicily this past Spring, Etna was constantly popping up. Oh well.

When are you headed to SA?

I do recall the laundry room noise, but I just had one night. I asked the guy (the owner) if they could stop so I could sleep, and they did. I saw the laundry when I went up to the rooftop for a view.

I know they're trying out the noisy room on the solo gringa with the free upgrade. Have had it happen a few times.

I haven't bought my tickets yet. Time to get moving now that my passport has renewed. I may look for just after Easter/Spring Break or into May.

We rode the train from Quito to Machachi and back along the "Avenue of Volcanoes" and didn't see one! I'm not entirely sure they really exist!!! Good luck at Cotopaxi .

Continuing to enjoy your report, yes! Is Cotopaxi closed to hiking due to increased activity? My memory of that is Locals so enjoying seeing snow and making snow angels! We're disappointed here in Nicaragua that Masaya is totally closed for hiking/ visiting the last few weeks due to increased activity.

Thanks! Glover. Yes, what I was told on Sunday by a potential hiker was that it was closed for hiking due to increased activity. We're going tomorrow so we'll find out...maybe. Info is not always real clear!

Crellston-am happy to report back that there really are volcanoes, alive and well living in Ecuador. Got some very nice views of Cotopaxi though not completely cloud free. :)

Yipeeeee! That is the best one can hope for...usually.

Guide said June-August has the least cloud coverage and the most tourists. The park was blissfully empty today with amazing cloud formations.

Great!! Fingers crossed the clouds play ball when we get there at the beginning of June.

You two are amazing travelers. It's intimidating and inspiring.

Ah, thanks, SM! You have some pretty neat trips yourself.

Fine Trip - Well Done and Beautifully Reported. KUDOS to YT and GT.

Thanks, marnie! Appreciate the feedback.

<b>Banos to Black Sheep Inn </b>

I hate to sound repetitious, but we had another day of spectacular driving. I am ready to award Ecuador as the most overall scenic country I have ever been in.

Leaving lush Banos we passed through several villages along the avenida of volcanoes. Of course not one volcano was in sight. As we approached the outskirts of Latacunga we turned onto the Quilotoa loop and that's when the scenery exploded. The road went up, up and up into the high paramo. Every turn revealed a new landscape--some desiccated and some lush. We passed gorges and canyons, dry river beds, thatched roof houses and many indigenous people going about their daily life. We stopped at the town of Quilotoa, paid the admission fee of $2 per person and parked the car and drudged with the wind at our face to the rim of the spectacular Quitotoa crater lake. It is gorgeous turquoise lake. It reminded me a bit of a mini Crater Lake in Oregon.

We threaded our way through several small towns and eventually made it to Chugchilan where we exited to the Black Sheep Inn driveway.
Black Sheep Inn is a well known community based Eco lodge at 10'500' in the Andes. The views took your breath away. Edmundo, who leases the place from the original owners grew up in the area and knows it like the back of his hand. All the staff have worked there since its inception 20 years ago. Our room was one of four at the top of the lodge, a good 200 steps away up there. There are other rooms are on various levels and a hiker dormitory. We had requested 2 beds and in fact there were 2 beds...on different levels. The beds were slightly larger than an American twin. The other 2 couples up where we were staying, flipped a coin to see who had to climb the steep ladder to the tiny loft bed.

We had a good time at BSI & met some fun couples to share our time and hikes with. We recommend BSI if you are into serious hiking. There are many options to hike on your own or with a guide. It's a bit of a trek to go there and not hike. While I liked the rustic accommodations and the gorgeous views, I think BSI is a bit overpriced at $80 per person for a room with a private bath. Rooms with shared baths and dorms were a touch less. You get three vegetarian meals included in your rate. Rides to hikes and guides are additional. Be happy to answer any other questions about BSI.

Instead of staying 3 nights at BSI, we left a day early because I got altitude sickness. Edmundo did fix me up with native herbal tea and a headache type pill and I was able to hike, but never felt completely fine and thought I would feel better back at 9200 ft. I think my mistake was spending the time at Banos prior to BSI. Banos is a mere 5,900 ft, one of the lower altitude places we had been on this trip. I was fine as soon as we began the drive to our next destination, Latacunga. On our return drive on the same route because the rest of the loop was under construction we stopped in some of the villages and again at the canyon where Ecuadorans were enjoying a lovely Sunday afternoon at the canyon overlook.

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Most scenic is quite an honor coming from yestravel!