A Fishing Expedition with a side of Buenos Aires
 

Jan. 29- Feb. 12
For our 60th (dont tell) birthdays Mr.MoneyB and I are going fishing in Patagonia - a wish of his for years. We decided one night after a bottle of Malbec to book Challhuaquen Lodge ,which I'm sure will be delightful (looks like great scenery, good wine and food, oh yes, and guides with a great river)

On arrival in BsAs we will spend a few days exploring, and I was hoping to get some great "- neighborhood type" - restaurants in walking distance in Recoleta where we are staying - Mansion Algodon (got a deal) for lunches and dinners, and perhaps a good Tango to attend. Other than that, we will stroll and enjoy the sights until the jet lag wears off. We are not fancy and will be toting our fishing wear, so no 5* restaurants...(Yes I know Mansion A has a fancy restaurant..) I am "trying out " the hotel for some friends!
We know we will return for all we are missing in Argentina, but this trip is fly-fishing oriented as a b'day present.

After Challhuaquen, we will be transported to Barilloche where we will pick up a car and stay in Vila Angostura for 4 nights driving around the area...suggestions welcomed!

I've been on several forums here on Fodors and received such great help and info; so if any one has some tips for me it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks as ever,
MoneyB

Wow , what a great birthday gift !
In the neighborhood of the Algodon are some really nice little cafes, right off of Vicente Lopez, about a block from the hotel, is a big cafe across the street from a Carrefours market. Next to the cafe is a little passageway with 2 wonderful wonderful restaurants. Sirop and Nectarine.
For lunch or dinner or just tea and taking a break, they are a treat.
In Recoleta there many good places to eat, SottoVoce, El Sanjuanino ( for empanadas), Fervor (next door to El Sanjuanino) and anywhere you want to eat is a hop in a cab ride away.
Go to San Telmo, have dinner upstairs in Amici Miei .. delicious and romantic.
Go to Oviedo for seafood.
Stop for helado (ice cream) every chance you get. Volta, Freddo, are not far from you.
The Tea Connection is downstairs next to the hotel front door, wonderful .
Our friend lives in Bariloche ( during the summer) and his home is up high, looking out over the lake and the hotel .. amazingly beautiful place. I still have not visited, I should be ashamed.
Have fun with the planning and definitely you will have fun with the trip !
chau.

Scarlett, thank you so much for your input...I read many of your postings here and over on TA and you are truly a wealth of info...esp. helpful for a newbie to Argentina. I hope I see you walking your dog!

The fly fishing has been Mr. Moneyb's dream for so long I figured if we got that accomplished, perhaps he fall in love with the country and bring me back for my own wishes!

I always enjoy a locals' recommendations and will take yours along in my pocket - as I have learned no wallets, no jewels, no bling..so if you see two walking down the street in their fishing vests, you will know it is moi and the Mr!

Have you been in the Algodon? I am wondering if it is as nice as the website shows.....and the many mag. articles they sent me! It will be an experience I am sure.

After the fishing lodge,the prices in Vila Angostura seemed very reasonable - well except for LLao-LLao which I might walk in - and out -real quick. Those lakes do seem to be quite gorgeous, so indeed, go see your friend.

Tx again! I am really getting excited about seeing Buenos Aries.

Moneyb

Scarlett mentions some of our favorite restaurants in Recoleta - though some are a bit 'fancy' and pricey.

For great empanadas and salad etc., at very reasonable prices, try El Sanjuanino on Posadas or Cumana on Rodriguez Pena near Santa Fe. Both casual.

For fixed price lunches and good dinners we also like:
La Parolaccia on Riobamba on the right between Santa Fe and Marcelo T. de Alvear or Rodi Bar- Vicente López 1900 - Both also fairly casual.

Melo is also one of our favorites, on Pacheco de Melo.

Happy Birthdays !

~MarnieWDC

Hi Marnie, I also follow you as I was preparing for the trip (last minute planning - a week ago!)

.Thank you for the suggestions. One night is our anniversary so we will splurge; the others -it will be nice to go local but casual and reasonable.
We find when traveling we ALWAYs eat better than at home (maybe it is because I don't cook, our takeout options are limited, and don't get me started on restaurants - you'd think I lived in Paris but it is a southeastern capital city very overpriced for the options.)

I read the reports over to TA about the costs going up in Argentina, but even with our hotels in BsAs and Patagonia being what they are (I did chose higher $$ ones than most - but hey, its a big birthday) -

They are still LESS than in my city! So if not for airfares, I'd be going everywhere as much as I could!

The ONLY thing I haven't a handle on is renting a car...they all seem to have a 400km limit and then charge over that per km...Are there any reputable companies throughout Argentina that might have an office in Bariloche - if anyone knows, I'd appreciate a recommendation for our 4 - 5 nights in Bariloche area. I've had a real easy time booking accommodations on line, but for some reason the car is giving me a migraine.

Oh, Mr Money says it was the wine last night....:)

Hi, moneyburns!

I must say I like your style!

I'm just back from Bariloche and I rented a car from the local Hertz office. The car was fine and had unlimited mileage.

If you wish, write to me at albertovgalloATyahoo.com for further info. If you do so, please indicate the message is from you.

Have a great time in our country, celebrating your birthdays.

Thx, Avrooster - I also know you from the forum; this is fun getting to know new people all over again....I am usually hanging out on the Africa forum, but we are trying another continent this go round and I think it will be a blast.

I will email you - thanks again. Cant wait for some tips on Bariloche - I have been told to stay away from the city center so we are based in Vila Angostura...Hope to put some miles on the car!

Got to pull my Spanish book out too before I start speaking Swahilli to the nice folks we meet.
(Never really grasped that either; too busy studying up on S.African wines :))

Oh that's OK moneyburns, I speak Spanish here and everyone thinks it is Swahili.
I second Marnies recommendation of Melo. I loe that place!
OK .. there is Olla de Felix, Rodi Bar ( how could I have forgotten them ??), Como en Casa (tea/lunch) Croque Madame at the Decorative Artes Museum , Rond Point for a Bloody Mary and Rabas ( fried calamari), sit outside.. Pup always makes us go there.
Really.
Thank you for the compliments, I am positive I drive everyone crazy eventually with my help .. we are still new here, almost 4 years but it seems like we just arrived.. We love it here very much.

sorry, I am always in too much of a hurry to proof read .. I love Melo.

Another place to go . . for lunch while around museums, the MALBA has a wonderful restaurant and in Palermo Chico, The Museo Metropolitano, on Castex.. you go through the entrance gates and the stone courtyard to this museum, once a home, is the cafe.. wander through the museum too, it is a jewel. And buy jewelry next door , I can't remember the name ( my memory is failing faster and faster) but she sells amazing pieces.

There is a little book called Wallpaper that is great and a Mapa de las Artes, just the museums and addresses.. and if you are like me, anything with a map is good.

No, I have never stayed at the Algodon, I would though. Maybe if we have to move out of our apt for some reason :)

Up the street from the Algodon, towards Vicente Lopez , on the same side of the street as the hotel is a little French bakery called Lepi. Buy something, anything there. Wonderful.
Going down toward Av Alvear across the street from your hotel, is a cafe that I don't remember the name of but it is highly recommended by many people.

That's it, I will stop now :)

I sure hope I see you and your pup walking down the street or sitting at Rond Point, Scarlett, as I will be missing my own pooch for sure (a lab - way too large for my purses or airplanes)

Never too much into; thank you so much..I will study all of them, make lists and at least try to walk by as many.

I do want to go to the museum - we live in a very museum, art-oriented city, so it is fun to see what other cities have to offer and yes, they always have great cafes!
OH - jewelry - I always tell Mr. MoneyB that jewelry to me is like a "fly" (fishing thingies" to him and he finally caught on! It's my birthday year too so will take a look/see!

Thank ya'll so much! I was afraid no one would respond - I guess it's like throwing a party and wondering who will come. Post a question and wonder if anyone think's it is worthy enough to answer LOL.

Have a great weekend to all,
MoneyB

I just found Marcy_ thread on her upcoming trip and great tips from youall once again...

Two questions - first - what is that above mean - comment removed - anyone know? was it a tour company tout or something??

Second- I know it will be warm; I live in warm area of the south (although we just had snow so I am freezing!) but how warm is warm - upper 80's -low 90's - heaven forbid 100? (F)

Only reason I ask is I am limited to carryon by Mr. MoneyB so I need to figure out a city look for at least one night that I can wear for at least 2 . Capris maybe? I am thinking like Paris, anything goes?

Scarlett - since you are living there, perhaps you could tell me - I do not want to stick out like a tourist but if its very hot I do not want to wear black. Skirts require ironing - not for me on a holiday. Suggestions appreciated!


Thank YOU so much...things like this keep me awake when I should be dreaming of street scenes, lakes, wine, restaurants, people, museums, parks...learning to tango
finding Scarlett's pooch so I can pet her (him)...important things!

Certainly not my area of expertise, but I believe the above referenced "pooch" is a HE. LOL!!!!

Late Jan. in BA can be quite warm (highs in the 90's or even 100's) and rather humid.

I'll feel right at home; that is our summer here in southeast, but since it is now snowing and I'm freezing, I will look forward to it!

Patagonia river and mts. - I imagine a bit cooler; the lodge recommended bringing a fleece for early am..this will be interesting!

MB

Hola moneyburns,

avRooster gave you a good lead for Hertz car rental in Bariloche.

Another option, that we have selected, is:
www.norteasur-rentacar.com.ar. We have had excellent contacts with MAX at NorteaSur.

And Bariloche, in contrast to Buenos Aires, is said to be quite cool in the evenings, with possible, brief showers and cool(ish) days. I learned this from the Bariloche Forum on TA, which you might want to review. Villa la Angostura is our first stop in Bariloche too.

Have a wonderful trip - and a good catch !

~Marnie

I posted a photo of my boy Pup, then thought better of it ... it was removed by the editors at my request :)

Capris are good, just be sure they are light weight. Heat and humidity and then there is the heat that you get from the sun bouncing off of the buildings, streets, sidewalks .. hot hot hot.
I always take skirts with me when we travel ! go somewhere like Anthropologie and get some cute summer weight skirts.. preferable to pants of any sort.. in town.

I wear light cotton tops, with cotton skirts .. or capris. Sandals flat for days, with heels at night if you need less casual.

I grew up in the Southeast/lived in Florida for a year and I think it is pretty much the same here.. mosquitoes... remember to bring OFF ! and sunblock. The air is clear and the sun loves to toast you as you walk around.
I do whatever I can to protect my skin and still end up with a light tan and freckles.

Yesterday was 90 + ... today is about 70. Sooooo nice.
The ferias are full and the parks are full and so are all the cafes. Everyone is out with babies, children, grandma and the dogs.

Scarlett - Serously - mosquitoes! Oh no, they love me...thanks for the tips. I guess I will go into my freezing attic and find some summer clothes..it's snowing here!

Marnie - thank you; I will go on a fishing expedition of sorts checking out car rentals. We are off for a mountain week through Xmas so Happy Holidays to all and perhaps this week ahead will give me time to mentally run through the trip and what I can fit in my CARRYON..I've NEVER done a carryon internationally so this will be hilarious. My present to Mr. Money was promising not to overpack and take it in a carryon..

People could make money off of this if they chose to bet. I might be shipping my clothes to BA!

THe Fishing Lodge people told us it could get chilly and maybe rain - so I'm prepared for that - I guess it shocked me to see the temps in BA! I'm used to it though - just need to figure out what to take. Yea, I'll stress over this for weeks. Time to open my wine. I think better with a glass of red wine in my hand.

Happy Holidays to Everyone and Thank y'all again for all the great tips!

MoneyB and Family

I hope you enjoy Villa la Angostura as much as we did, if you click on my name, you can see my trip report. We spent 4 days in this area and really enjoyed it. Try to have lunch at the Llao Llao one day, we had stayed there on our first trip, so no need to return. It's worth seeing the place and will make an enjoyable day trip.

Have a great time!