60 Hours in Buenos Aires: Blue Dollar Heaven
 

WARNING: I have been known to abandon my trip reports for weeks at a time. If I don't complete this, please bug me, especially because I'm only chronicling two days.

BACKGROUND:
I am a female empty nester who wishes I had as much time to travel as many of you. When I was invited to go to Santiago on a week-long work trip (fourth time), I asked the people arranging my journey if I could stop in Buenos Aires, which has always been a dream destination for me (I've lived in Mexico and Venezuela and traveled in Peru-Colombia-Ecuador, but this was my first time in Argentina). The Chilean travel agent who handled my ticket arranged a free stopover for 3 nights, 2 days. The original plan was for Mr. Crosscheck to join me, but this proved impossible, so this was a solo jaunt. My visit turned out to be way too brief, but enough of a taste to stick with me and entice me to return asap. Almost as soon as I arrived, I found myself longingly looking at "for rent" signs.

HIGHLIGHTS:
During my 60 hours in BA, I went on a 26k bike tour, witnessed the after-midnight milonga culture with a tango scholar, stayed in a cool boutique hotel in an ideal location, purchased the perfect bag at a huge discount, and had some excellent meals, including a memorable dinner with Fodors icon/quasi-economist avrooster.

ITINERARY/TOURS:
LAN – LAX-LIMA-BA-SANTIAGO-LAX Prem. Business
Mine Hotel, Palermo – 3 nights (paid in AR cash, an extraordinary bargain, thanks to av
Biking Buenos Aires - Ultimate City Tour
Narrative Tango Tours - private milonga visit

WEATHER:
Glorious. Low 70s F days, low 50s nights. Bright blue skies, white fluffy clouds

PRE-TRIP PLANNING:
Because I was swamped with work, my planning was minimal. I ordered the Time Out guidebook, which seems fabulous, but never opened it. I also inquired here on Fodors about hotels and restaurants (thanks, all!) and also set up a dinner with av after I read here that he was both a national treasure and a controversial figure. I also checked out TA and found a bike tour, a tango tour, plus a puerta cerrada dinner that I ended up not attending. Other than that, I didn't really do my homework, which led to almost not being allowed on the plane….

NEXT: WHERE’S YOUR RECIPROCITY?

Thanks for the enthusiastic support, av. Hope you're not the only one following along.

THE RECIPROCITY DEBACLE:
Showed up at the LAN counter at the spiffy new LAX international terminal. I was actually looking forward to my 8 hr. red-eye flight, even though I had just returned from another trip that same day.

The travel agent in Santiago had checked me in for both legs of my journey. The check-in agent did a lot of typing and then gently broke the news that I would not be allowed to travel to Argentina because I hadn't pre-paid my reciprocity fee in advance.

My fairly reasonable defense (which I presented politely and with humor): I did know about the fee but figured the procedure was the same as Chile's, where you pay on arrival. Clearly the Chilean travel agent who booked my ticket was clueless about requirements for US passengers. And LAN should have discovered the omission and alerted me when the agent checked me in online.

A kind supervisor suggested that I go to a faraway landside business lounge, use their computer and printer to buy and print the reciprocity receipt and hike back to the check-in gate. There wasn't enough time for this, I pointed out – how about if I did this in Lima when I changed planes? (I was thinking that it wouldn't be so bad to be stuck in Lima.)

The agent was horrified by this idea. He told me to get in touch with the Chilean travel agent, theorizing that they must have bought me the reciprocity, but this idea would not work because of the time difference.
In a moment of resourcefulness, I asked if I could use my laptop to purchase the reciprocity right there at the gate, then email it to him so he could print it for me in his little office behind the ticket counter. He went for this idea and watched in awe as I quickly paid for the reciprocity online…took about two minutes. There was no way to forward the actual receipt, but he allowed me to copy and paste the Proof of Reciprocity onto an email, to which I formulated an official-sounding subject line in Spanish.

Short story long, soon I was on my way. I am certain that a US airline would not have been so flexible…but they might have prevented the situation to begin with.

THE FLIGHT:
A very comfy flatbed sleep (w/ high-count cotton duvet covers), much needed. I had expected to take a maiden voyage on the 787, but I think they're all still grounded.

THE 2-HOUR DELAY IN LIMA (which meant a 3.5 hour layover):
A great relief, because I had some work to finish and the lounge had a large supply of decent snacks…and unlimited coca tea.

THE ACTUAL TRIP REPORT: COMING UP

Hi, crosscheck!

I may be the only reader commenting on your great report, but I know from personal experience that many people read useful posts, but do not comment.

Many people have trouble paying the reciprocity fee online. Maybe you can explain how it was so easy for you.

I'm following along! And just learned you have to prepay the Argentinian fee. We arrived in BA from Rio and paid it there 2 years ago (Canadians) - but that's changed?

Elizabeth_S:

The following seems to indicate, in obscure officialese, that Canadians have to pay 75 American dollars, unless you paid 150 for multiple entrance, two years ago.

http://www.migraciones.gov.ar/pdf_va...structions.pdf

I suggest you check with your airline or travel agent.

Have a great time in my country.

Av -- I was referring to our trip 2 years ago and indeed we paid $75 but were able to pay upon arrival whereas it seems the OP was not.

Good thinking on the reciprocity fee! Isn't modern technology wonderful (sometimes)?

I know, Elizabeth_S, now you have to pay BEFORE starting your trip and your airline or travel agent is supposed to warn you about that.

Crosscheck most likely followed the instructions given here:

http://www.migraciones.gov.ar/pdf_va...structions.pdf

but I asked her to tell us how she did it so easily, because many people have trouble with the Provincia Pagos website.

thursdaysd: you'd get on fine with crosscheck, who is also technology-wise.

Have a great time in our country.

I'm reading, I'm reading... waiting for more! :-)

Great!

Crosscheck: now that you know you have an audience, how about another chapter, to read tonight?

I am also following along, Crosscheck, and very much enjoying this thread. Thank you for posting, and providing useful (and may I say amusing ?) descriptions of your voyage. I look forward to more.

JD (crosscheck): Mind you, the above comes from a highly prestigious BA TA DE!

Obviously just kidding, no offense meant to any other posters.

The idea is to pressure JD into posting another chapter ASAP!

Have a great time in our country.

Honored to have followers. My bad for starting the audio entertainment. Now back to the report.
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Provincia Pagos (reciprocity): The site was extremely easy to navigate and I didn't follow any instructions. You register, log-in, fill out a very short form, then pay with a CC. All in English. Can't imagine anyone having trouble with it. The only challenge for me as a last-minute purchaser was figuring out a way to print the generated document because it was a pop-up, not a link. I obviously couldn't print from my computer at the LAN check-in counter (and the printer in the lounge in Lima was broken). But both LAN and Argentine Immigration were okay with the doc pasted on a printed email, even though the scan bars didn't show up.
--
I, ME, MINE:
I had arranged for the hotel to pick me up and let them know I would be delayed. (Everyone I dealt with in AR seemed to check email compulsively.) When I arrived, after gliding through customs and immigration, I discovered a card with my name hanging in a pick-up area and shortly thereafter someone showed up to escort me to my car. The ride was more or less the same distance as JFK to Manhattan. And the driver told me it was going to rain even though it didn't, which also often happens in NYC.

First glimpse of BsAs: Not 100% the 'Paris of South America,' but there is a resemblance. Here's a video, made by some filmmaker friends who just traveled around the world, weighing in on that idea:

The MIne Hotel (pronounced the English way) is a find if you like small hotels. Can't imagine a better location, in the heart of Palermo Soho. Stylish contemporary design, welcoming public indoor and outdoor areas with sunny breakfast room (and a breakfast you'll look forward to), library, bar, fountains, bamboo, pool. Found on tablet, jetsetter, etc. I had reserved a Superior Queen room, which was decent sized with high ceilings, an extremely comfortable bed, large jacuzzi tub and a street view of colonial style buildings on a quiet side street moments from an area full of cafes, shops, restaurants, squares and galleries. Wanted to take all the furniture and linens home. Service was friendly and everyone went the extra mile.

NEXT: BIKING WITH THE BUSES

We just returned from Buenos Aires too, so I am looking forward to the rest of your report.

Great third chapter, crosscheck!

Any chance of also posting it on TA?

If you do so, remember it against their so-called "rules" to even mention my nickname. LOL!!!!

You are correct - I just found this rule clearly stated in their terms and conditions: "Don't even think of mentioning anything to do with male poultry or no trip advice for you!"

OMG!! A woman with a sense of humor!!!!!!!!!!!! ROTFLMAO!!!!!!

I'm following along too!!!! I haven't said much but I've read plenty!!!!

Thinking of BA for this winter, though for more than 60 hours. Write on, please.

Heading there in a month, although we will be there for all of 24 hours, still enjoying your report.

And trying to do the reciprocity for a family of three was exceptionally difficult and ridiculously frustrating. I ended up doing each one of us separately.