Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > South America
Reload this Page >

6 days too many in Cuzco? Should we add Lake Titicaca too?

Search

6 days too many in Cuzco? Should we add Lake Titicaca too?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 22nd, 2011, 08:10 AM
  #21  
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 9,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
the only street foot I ate as well was the giant boiled corn. I never got sick on my trip. I didn't know AC was a concern. I ate at Inkaterra for lunch (50 soles, $18 for a 3 course meal) and I would think that is perfectly safe. I ate dinner at Rupawasi which prides itself on culinary expertise so I think that is a safe choice as well in AC.
ncounty is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2011, 09:08 AM
  #22  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
RE the guides for ruins... The ruins at Pisac are a good hike up the hill so we ended up hiring a taxi to get us up there who also guided us around. The ruins at Ollantaytambo are on the outskirts of town and we just hired the guide outside the ruins. If you can, try and get to the ruins as early in the day as possible so you are there before the tour buses arrive. Also as we were advised, it can get very windy (particularly in Olly) around 2 PM so an early viewing is better from that standpoint, too.

Actually I got sick up at MP and considered it might have been from the buffet at the Sanctuary Lodge (the only place to eat there) because there are a lot of people who have been on buses, hiking the trail for 4 days, etc. and they are all using the same serving utensils.
cavergirl is offline  
Old May 22nd, 2011, 11:07 PM
  #23  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 9,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
On the food hygeine issue, we spent a bit of time working with Hearts Cafe /Living Heart org in Ollantaytambo and got to know the owner, Sonia well who is the author of a number of books on food hygiene and she warned us to be very careful in AC, This warning was oft repeated by other locals. Was very ill on the day we visited MP and for a couple of days after. I had no previous issues whilst in Peru. Regardless of where you eat (a 5* hotel is not necessarily any safer than a street stall).
mlgb provides a lot of sound advice above. I confess i did not like AC as a place but if I did return I would only eat pizza and then only if I saw it enter and come out of the oven! i would stick to soft drinks and not touch the "bottled" water as you can never be sure it hasn't been refilled from a tap. Rice is often a prime cause of food poisoning as it is often reheated which causes the bacteria to multiply.


"Pisac market and ruins. Can we start midday? How many hours for Pisac?
Should we plan anything else this second day? Or just try to rest and take it easy?
Would we be able to visit Maras (Salt Mines), Moray, and Sacred Valley this day too?"

Entirely possible in one very long day -see

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...8980/tpod.html
for more detail

If staying in Olly your first night, given your initial comment re your husbands health, do take it easy and use this time to wander around the town just to acclimatise a little even at this lower altitude.

Most of the places in the SV do not need a guide unless you are into Inca history etc. a good guide book will provide much teh same info. That said, by engaing a guide, you will be putting money into the local economy which is much needed - just be sure you don't put too much in!
crellston is offline  
Old May 23rd, 2011, 10:19 AM
  #24  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Re the bottled water, I was told to only buy the "con gas" version since that would be harder to counterfeit. There is only so much Inca Cola I wanted to drink, although now I miss it.

If you lodge at El Albergue they have a deal where you can refill your own bottles from their big carboys of purified water to cut down on the plastic waste, a big problem in the SV. You can see all the discarded plastic water bottles along the river banks from the train.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 25th, 2011, 04:25 AM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My husband and I just returned from a 2 week tour of Peru. I would take cavegirl's advice about the Colca Canyon. We didn't get to go there but we did make it to Lake Titicaca, which is beautiful but it I didn't think it was worth a day of travel. Not to mention the altitude is a real engery zapper.
linjo is offline  
Old May 27th, 2011, 02:33 PM
  #26  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you everyone!! All the tips and advice here is invaluable. I wish I had known about Arequipa. Our frequent flyer tickets are already booked for US-Lima-Cuzco; and vice versa on return. To change routing (i.e., go to Arequipa) would cost us an extra $400 maybe.

I don't think we'll do Puno or Lake Titicaca at the tail end, as that requires flying back from Juliaca -- another routing change. And I have been reading about Taquille, and the 3-hour boat ride, 500-steps, and high altitude does not sound great (espec. for my husband).

For now, our updated itinerary looks like this. Welcome comments or advice, and things to do in Cuzco (5 days there).

Day 1
Arrive Lima to Cuzco ~10am.
Drive straight to Olly, booked at El Albergue for 2 nights.
Acclimate. Maybe walk around Olly town or go to ruins if not too far.

Day 2
Chintero and/or Pisac market. Pisac Ruins.
Mara Salt Mines and Moray on the way back to El Albergue.

Day 3
9am Expedition train to AC (MP). Awaiting confirmation from Perurail -- they're not responding!
5:30pm train back to Olly. Is this enough time at MP??
Get taxi or car, drive to Cuzco

Hotel Midori in Cuzco
(We are booked there from Oct 1-8 (time share). And we will need to pay extra night for Oct. 9, since we can't get earlier frequent flyer flights back to US.)

Day 4
Cuzco -- city tour

Day 5
Cuzco -- Saqsayhuaman. Where else?

Day 6
Cuzco

Day 7
Cuzco

Day 8
Cuzco

Day 9
Flight from Cuzco-Lima-US
The_Jenster is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 12:00 PM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Jenster..Good plan for acclimatizing on Day 1. You can take a mototaxi from El Albergue to the center of town, it's uphill into town so on Day1/2 you might feel like not walking in. If you missed the Ollantaytambo ruins on Day 1 be sure to see them on Day 2. Day 2 might be a bit full. You can always visit some of those Sacred Valley sites from Cusco rather than rushing to fit everything in. If it's a Sunday you can concentrate on the markets.

I might, if it isn't too late, take an earlier train than 9am. Taking a 9am departure will put you up at the top at midday when the masses of tourists start to arrive, all together you'll have perhaps 4-5 hours at the top. I might want more. Since you are at El Albergue (congrats) you might as well take advantage of the location on the platform. Have an early breakfast and just step on to the train straight from the hotel's restaurant.

Often you won't hear back on emails during the weekends. But did you try to book your own tickets online first?

Could you not go back to Lima on Day 8 and spend the night there? I don't like to rely on any domestic flights within Peru to be on schedule, no matter who you fly with.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 01:59 PM
  #28  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the tips!

At first, the 8:53am Expedition ($43) showed "sold out" on Perurail.com. But when I emailed Perurail, they wrote back that it is available. They require scans of my credit card and passports, and a reservation form -- emailed back before they will ticket. Is this typical, or safe??? (Return train is 5:27pm Vistadome ($60); the Expedition ($43) was a little earlier 4:43pm, but that one said sold out too online.)

On Perurail.com, the earlier trains that day are:
6:10am Expedition ($43), arrives AC 7:40am
7:05am Vistadome ($60), arrives AC 8:27am
7:45am Vistadome ($60), arrives AC 9:14am
8am AutoWagon (like Vista, but no glass ceilings, $60), arrives AC 9:24am

With the exception of the 8am Autowagon, Perurail.com lists the other 3 trains as "sold out." But maybe I can email and ask again.

Do you really think during the first week of Oct. we'll need to get to MP very early, to beat the crowds? How many hours should we plan on spending up there? (With a lunch break.)

My son and husband are not early birds. Maybe the 7:45am Vistadome is do-able. Maybe 7:05am ok too? Not sure we about the 6:10am!

When or how do we buy the bus tickets -- from AC to MP? Is there some place in Olly (or Cuzco Airport) to buy the bus tickets ahead of time? If not, do we get off the train at AC, then walk somewhere (how far?) to buy the bus tickets? Is the bus stop near the ticket office? Can we buy roundtrip bus tickets all at once (for the journey back to Olly in the afternoon too)?

Where do we buy entrance tickets for MP? I'd like to buy those ahead if possible.

Was thinking about booking a guide to pick us up from Cuzco Airport, drive us to El Albergue on Day 1. Then drive us to Pisac Ruins (top) and Market, and Moray and Maras on Day 2. Then drive us back from Olly to Cuzco on Day 3. (Maybe this last one we could just do taxi.) So maybe the guide can pick up all the tickets for us ahead of time?? How much should we expect to pay a guide? Is it worth it? Or just do it by local taxi and pick up a guide at MP?

Yes, maybe we need another day back to Sacred Valley, by car from Cuzco. This way, we don't have to cram everything into Day 1 or Day 2. (Day 1 may just be acclimatization, or easy walking around Olly or Olly ruins.) I honestly don't know how to fill the 5 days in Cuzco. So maybe we use one of those days for a drive back to SV. What sight in SV would you recommend saving for the 4th "return" day?

I hear Chintero is a nice town, nice market, and there's a weaving factory, which sounds interesting. Do you know anything about that?

Is there an alpaca farm somewhere? Is that worth a visit, or skip?

Any suggestions for a 4- or 5-day itinerary in Cuzco? I've been researching, but kinda lost.

I debated about overnighting in Lima. But it may be too late. Our frequent flyer flights are booked, and we can't break up the connection to overnight Lima one day earlier. Darn! Wish I had known beforehand.

We're on a 9:35am flight out of Cuzco, arriving Lima 10:55am.
Connecting flight from Lima to US is at 12:40pm.
The tickets are all bought as ONE, on LAN (via American Airlines).
I assumed LAN/AA would be responsible if they make us miss the connection?

In case the 9:35am gets delayed or cancelled, the next flight out is a 10:15am, arriving Lima 11:35am. Is that enough safety??

Or we could take the earlier 9:10am from Cuzco, arriving Lima 10:30am.
That would give us 2 later flights (the 9:35am and 10:15am) in case of problems.
What do you think?

Thanks again for all your help!! Sorry for all the questions.
The_Jenster is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 03:21 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Because you are planning to go on a Monday, it may in fact be sold out on the earliest & cheapest options. Monday is a busy day, I've heard, because so many people are on a short trip and want to go to the Sunday markets. Even taking the 8am train will make a big difference, but the earlier the better...after all it's just one day!!. Personally, I didn't think the overhead windows made a bit of difference, especially if you can get some window seats on the left side of the train on the way up. As far as the amount of time, I was happy with about 6 hours including an hour for lunch, at the top (plus about 2 hours for the time to buy tickets, take the bus, and shuttle to the top and back, and walk to the train station). You buy the bus tickets at kiosk near the line for the bus, and yes you can buy a roundtrip ticket, there may even be a small discount. Just follow everyone else!!

It may now be possible to buy MP tickets online, or in Cusco.
I just bought them in town but then I was there early so there wasn't much wait.

Chinchero has a weaving coop, and a chapel with some interesting murals. I'll recommend eenusa's blog to you, she posted the link to it here on Fodors after her trip. I'm sure you'll get lots of ideas. Since Chinchero is higher even than Cusco in altitude, you might indeed want to save it until later in your trip if you are not feeling well by morning of Day2, you can combine that day with Moray and the Salineras.

http://2totravelperu.blogspot.com/

The alpaca farm is outside of Cusco, Awana Kancha. I didn't go.

El Albergue has a comfortable van and driver, so you may want to use them for the transfer from the airport and back to Cusco.

About the last day's flights, if there are weather conditions the addtional half hour isn't going to make any difference. I would assume that AA/LAN will put you on the next flight, since they've booked it all for you as one ticket. Couldn't hurt to ask ahead of time just so you know what the answer should be if it happens. LAN is great in the air but they aren't always helpful on the ground.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 03:24 PM
  #30  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
LAN says we could leave Cuzco to Lima the day before; but the Cuzco-Lima flight must be within 24 hours of my U.S. flights the next day. Doing it this way would not incur any extra charges.

So we get on a 1:10pm out of Cuzco, into Lima 2:30pm. Get luggage, exit airport, probably just enough time to do dinner in Lima.

Any recommendations for a convenient and safe hotel just for one night in Lima?

Will we have to pay any kind of airport tax for exiting or going back into Lima Airport?

Thanks again!
The_Jenster is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 05:49 PM
  #31  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks again for the great advice mlgb!!

Didn't know Chinchero was higher elevation. We'll save that for another day-trip from Cuzco then. Since we're trying not to rush or squeeze too many things into any one day.

I emailed Perurail to ask availability for the earlier trains . . . we'll try for the 7:45am or 8am.

AA (LAN) said if we miss the connection due to the airline's fault or delay, then they are responsible for figuring the next flight(s) to put us on (4 people). Hopefully, no problems...

But I am now "considering" going to Lima one day earlier (afternoon flight). Since I have to pay an extra night (Day 8) either in Cuzco (Hotel Midori) or some place else. May as well go to Lima one day earlier to ensure flight connections. Would give us a chance to see Lima, even if just a few hours. I read Milaflora is a nice neighborhood, but about 30 minutes from Lima airport. Would you recommend that area or some place closer to the airport? What hotel(s) might you recommend in Lima?

Thanks again for all your great advice! It is so appreciated!
The_Jenster is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 06:13 PM
  #32  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As far as I know, the Lima airport departure tax is going to be charged anyways, charges of approx $30 for Lima and approx $6 for Cusco on your tickets. It's not like you're coming from another country and staying in the transit lounge. Maybe AA/LAN can confirm this for you.

My recommendation for a hotel would probably require two rooms, Second Home Peru in Barranco. It's the former home of the artist Victor Delfin (who did the statue at Parque del Amor). His studio and art works are still there. I like it because there is no traffic noise (rare in Lima) some rooms have ocean views. There are lots of good restaurants in Barranco as well as nightlife. If you get checked in early enough, you could still visit Museo Pedro de Osma in Barranco (closes at 6pm) and then go out for dinner. The hotel has a trusted driver that can pick you up and is available for tours. Other things to do at night are the illuminated fountains and I like the night=time double decker bus tours (some include the Plaza de Armas.)

Link for Second Home Peru
http://www.secondhomeperu.com/guest_rooms_rates.php

I recommend emailing Lilian rather than booking online, usually you get a slight discount and she can tell you whether there is a room large enough to hold four people.

You will need to leave for the airport about 3 hours before your flight, perhaps 3 1/2 (I think Sunday traffic won't be so bad).

If you want to eat at one of the top end restaurants in Lima you will want reservations. Just please don't go to Larcomar Mall, or Rosa Nautica, go somewhere good!!
mlgb is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 06:19 PM
  #33  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I should have commented on Miraflores. It is where most tourists stay. I don't particularly like it, other than walking along the promenade and the Parque del Amor. If you stay near the coast, Miraflores, San Isidro, or Barranco, it's faster to get back to the airport via the coastal road. Going thru the center of town is a nightmare traffic wise, makes LA traffic look like nothing.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 28th, 2011, 08:07 PM
  #34  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Who is Lillian? For discount booking at Second Home Peru?

Well, we "are" tourists. LOL. So maybe Miraflores won't be so bad?

The night-time double-decker buses (for night tours) and illuminated fountains sound great! Can I catch those buses in all districts of Peru? Barranco, Miraflores or San Isidro?

Do you some recommendations for some good restaurants in Lima?

BTW, Perurail just emailed back. All the earlier trains (except the 7:05am) are available. I guess we'll take to the 7:45am Vistadome, arriving AC 9:14am. After buying tickets at AC, and bus up, I guess we'll get to MP ~10:30am? Is that early enough?

The 3:48pm and 5:27pm Vistadomes ($60 each) back from MP are both available. (The 4:22pm sold out.) These trains would give us 4-6 hours at MP (including 1 hour lunch). Enough?

Would you recommend lunch at the Sanctuary Lodge? I've read so much about the Lodge.
The_Jenster is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 07:07 AM
  #35  
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 9,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For Lima, I would recommend Astrid y Gaston. It is pricey but worth it. I did a ten course tasting menu that takes over three hours for $50.
ncounty is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 07:20 AM
  #36  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Lilian Delfin is the owner of Second Home Peru. She is listed on their website as their contact.

I think 4 hours including lunch isn't enough time (for me).

For me the Sanctuary Lodge is just too expensive.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 07:51 AM
  #37  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Good general info on Lima
http://www.limaeasy.com/fun_in_lima/lima_citytours.php

Bus Tours

http://www.limavision.com/English/citytours.html
According to the webite, LimaVision picks up from hotels.

I used Mirabus, they have a kiosk at Park Kennedy and one downtown at the Plaza de Armas. http://www.mirabusperu.com/

You can visit the fountain without going on a tour, too.

One of the issues with Miraflores is that there is a lot of traffic noise, ie horns honking, so unless you stay in one of the more expensive hotels with airconditioning and a high floor, sleep is hit or miss. Bring earplugs. If you see Tripadvisor comments about traffic noise, you are warned.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 11:00 AM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,874
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just got back from Peru...need to start on my trip report, but I can give a few opinions here..

1) The "Sacred Valley" encompasses the whole area from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. Many of the sites are no farther from Cusco than they are from Ollanta. The main reason for staying in Ollanta (beside the fact that it's a nice town) is the altitude and proximity to MP.

2) I would definitely not plan so much on your second day in Ollanta. Visit the Ollantaytambo ruins that day, and maybe do one market. Save the rest for day trips out of Cusco, since you have lots more time there anyway. Remember, even if you do not get altitude 'sickness', you are going to find the effort of walking much more tiring.

3) The Sanctuary lodge is at the entrance to Machu Picchu. The ruins are straight up from there, a loooong way up if you are not already acclimated and a strong hiker. We packed a lunch and ate it up in a quiet spot to avoid the long hike (down and back up) in the middle of the day.

4) Do you like riding horses? We spent one day riding from Moray to Maras then to the salt pans. It was a beautiful ride. We were with three other people, two of whom hadn't been on horses since they were kids, and we all thought it was a fun way to spend a day. ($70 each)


5) I'd go early to Lima. We had quite a few issues with delayed flights, and were glad we were not on a tight schedule.

6) I read all the negative comments on Miraflores, and looked into booking Second Home Peru, but I hate bedrooms with the bathroom IN the bedroom. Ended up booking the Radisson Decapolis Miraflores for our 3 nights in Lima. Loved our room, loved the very friendly and helpful staff, and found the location very convenient.

It's in a neighborhood with lots of homes, residential apartment buildings, banks, and small shops. We walked up to Parque Kennedy, to the beach, even to (gasp!) the soul less tourist mecca of Larcomar mall. Had our very best meal of the trip at Portofina in the Mall, in fact.

We went out to Barranco to see the Pedro de Osma museum, then walked around and ate near the Puente de Suspiros (sp?) but found the whole area just dead on a Tuesday.
lcuy is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 11:30 AM
  #39  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your assumption that all rooms at Second Home Peru do not have a door to the bathroom is incorrect, lcuy.

Did you like Pedro de Osma museum?

That's funny that Portofino was your best restaurant in Peru. You were either very lucky (or perhaps unlucky on the other choices).

Looking forward to the balance of your trip report.
mlgb is offline  
Old May 29th, 2011, 11:50 AM
  #40  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 24,630
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here is a list of restaurants from Living in Peru. Given your timing, I don't think you will make Ingrid and Gaston's special lunch menu, which sounds great. I would probaby try Pescado Capitales, unless you don't like fish.

http://www.livinginperu.com/gastronomy/top-food
mlgb is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -