14 weeks in South America
 

Hi everyone,

We would appreciate some help from all you experienced travellers. We're (couple in our early 30's) planning to travel through South America and this is our rough itinerary:

1. Ecuador - 2 weeks - Sept - Galapagos + Quito surrounding areas
2. Peru - 3 weeks - Sept/Oct - Macchu Picchu, Manu Amazon Reserve, Lake Titicaca
3. Bolivia - 2 weeks - Oct - Lake Titicaca, La Paz, Sucre, Salaar de Uyuni
4. Argentina - 3 weeks - end Oct/Nov - Mendoza – Patagonia – Torre del Fuego (Glazier) – Flight to Buenos Aires + side trip to Colonia
5. Brazil - 3 weeks - Nov - Iguaçu – Flight to Rio - Paraty – Flight to Salvador + maybe Amazon
6. Venezuela - 10 days – Orinoco Delta - Angel Falls – Los Roques

Are we allocating enough time? Ideally we'd spend much longer but we can't - are there any times or places you would change.

Is mid November ok to visit Torre del Fuego or will it still be very cold?

We will be mainly travelling by long distance buses especially from Cuzco to Lake Titicaca on to Bolivia and Argentina. In Brazil we will fly.

Thanks!

LP shoestring guide explains a lot might review that...

amazon.com/South-America-Shoestring-Danny-Palmerlee/dp/...

www.weather2travel.com Climate Guide review that

Route of the Cones best visited Dec-Jan

www.despegar.com for flights

www.tavel.state.gov for safety issues Venezuela lots of issues

Overall more time would be nice...have fun,

Qwovadis,

Many thanks for your response. However I can't open the first link ...

I do have LP shoestring and LP First Time Around the World, just wanted to hear other travellers' opinions. We're very excited about the trip.

Regards,
Katerina

Kacenka - We spent 5 months in South America in 2008 as part of a 1 year plus trip around the globe and didn't cover anywhere near as much ground as you are proposing. We limited ourselves to Peru, Argentina, Uruguay and Chile (we were going to include Bolivia but there was a lot of rioting at the time!). our last month was spent in an apartment in BA and we also spent 3 weeks in Peru on a volunteer project so I guess the total time spent actually travelling was about the same. A few thoughts:

Don't underestimate the travel time - this continent is huge!!

We travelled by bus most of the time and found it, in most cases, to be a reliable, cheap and comfortable means of travel - go "full cama" or ejectivo on overnight trips - much more comfortable and you are saving the cost of accomodations so worth paying teh 20-30% extra.

We were in SA from August to Decmeber and found this to be an excellent time of year to travel.

Think about joining http://www.saexplorers.org/club/home it really is a great travel resource and offers loads of genuine discounts to members. there are also clubhouses in various places which are a great place to hook up with other travellers.

http://andeantravelweb.com/ is another good resource. Both of the above are not for profit organisations.

For accommodation we tended to use one of the following either to book in advance of as a general guide before arriving:

www.hostelworld.com
www.hihostel.com
www.hostelbookers.com

All have a wide range of accomodation wfrom beds in dorms to private en-suite rooms. Joining one of the hostelling organisations we secure valuable discounts for that lenght of trip.

If you don't already speak Spanish, take a few lessons. You will find a few basic words and phrases invaluable.

Highlights for us were many and varied but those that immediately spring to mind:
Peru
- Trekking from Lares to Ollantaytmbo
Lake Titicaca
Cusco and the Sacred Valley (particularly Pisac)
Arequipa

Argentina

Drivin around Salta and the Northwest (DEFINITELY worth a week of anyones time
Salinas Grande
BA
Peninsular Valdes (for the whales)
The Seven Lakes drive from San Martin to Bariloche
Iguazu

Chile
Pucon
Valapariso
Talca

Uruguay
Montevideo and Colonia del Sacramento

Regrets - not spending more time in Chile, visiting the Amazon, Torres de Paine, diving in the Galapagos etc. the list is endless but time is limited!!

You are right to be excited you will have an amazing time!

For more detail and photos of the places we visited have a look at our blog.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...ai/1/tpod.html

Hi, crellston!

How come you did not include among your "regrets" not having ordered Fervor's egg salad?

Just kidding. LOL!!

Good resources -- thanks.
AV - we may be back in BA Feb/Marc-- perhaps we can meet up this time.

Dear Crellston,

Thank you so much for the info. You blog is an inspiration in itself. After returning from South America we will continue on to Asia and hopefully the Middle East ...

I have already found majority of the websites you recommended so that assured me that we are on the right track.

Glad you mentioned Colonia in Uruguay as that is on our agenda as well.

Chile was the one country I have decided to omit ... I don't know if it is the right decision but in my mind it is very similar to Argentina and it was a matter of either we choose one or the other ... I wish we had more time but isn't it always the case ...

What volunteer project did you do in Peru?

I would love to take spanish lessons; I have basic understanding and would love to improve.

Thank you very much for your help. Happy travels!

Katerina

Yestravel: I certainly hope we can meet next summer.

When you have the phone number of the place where you will be staying, please write to me to albertovgalloATyahoo.com

avrooster - the episode of the Fervour egg salad had clearly finally been erased from my memory (thanks for reminding me!!) although as someone once said " I only regret the things I haven't done". I was however, remiss in not listing our meeting with the legendary avrooster as a highlight of our trip surely a must on every travellers visit to BA (as long as they are not seeking good egg salad LOL).
Yestravel - you will enjoy meeting avrooster, an hour in his company is worth a day of reading guide books -just make sure he chooses a decent restaurant!

kacenka In Peru we did some work with http://www.livingheartperu.org/ in Ollantaytambo you can find them at their cafe in the main square www.heartscafe.org.

As for language lessons we used a school which operated from the saexplorers clubhouse in Cusco. The teachers were all unmarried mothers (shunned by Peruvian society) who would provide formal lessons in the morning and then take us out and about the city in the afternoon to use our newly learn skills - we got to lots of places we would otherwise have missed - a great way to learn

I believe I chose a pretty decent restaurant, when I had lunch with crellston and his wife. But I was happy I didn't order the egg salad, as someone else did!!! LOL!!!

How well I remember reading about the "egg salad caper" -- it was right after we had returned from BA where we had not been able to meet up with AV. I sure hope that we have the opportunity this trip.
Crellston, once again your blog was a big help as we begin figuring out Chile.

Wind is the bigger issue in Torres del Paine even into December (maybe worse in summer) and it CAN be cold but November is not the depths of winter.

Fantastic Sur good tour guides if you want a wildlife expert in Chilean Patagonia. They also do Perito Moreno, I think.
www.fslodges.com
www.fsexpeditions.com

Mid November in southern Patagonia could be nice weather, or it could be cold. I would go!

Hi, my friend is there right now in Bogota Colombia. She is posting videos and food pics on her website.

There will be lots more restaurant, shopping and tourist pics and video over the next 4 days.

www.lizreyes.com

Mlgb and Soulskier, thank you for your input about Patagonia, we are keen hikers and we simply can't imagine leaving this region out. I presume that we will be able to hire some clothing over there i.e. warmer jackets?

Crellston, many thanks for the link and the info on Spanish. I will check it all out.

Katerina

There are lots of camping stores that do rentals in Puerto Natales, Chile. But wouldn't you need to have jackets elsewhere, such as Bolivia, anyways?

My trip report here. Most people here on Fodors seem to stay at Explora so this might help if you don't want to go that route. However since I flew in and out the transportation details may be different.

http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...-del-paine.cfm

Mlgb, thank you so much for the info and the trip report. Your photos are amazing!!

We will take some warm clothes but we weren't going to bring proper winter jackets ... do you think we will need it in Bolivia and Argentina?

Cheers,
Katerina

Crellston,

Sorry I have one more question ... when you did the Spanish course in Cuzco in your blog it states that you could choose from several options. Do you know if it is possible to attend any duration or do you have to sign up for a minimum number of classes?

Many thanks for your help.
Katerina

You really need the waterproof windbreaker in Patagonia and a lightweight polyfleece layer would do for the warm layer(because once you start hiking you won't be wearing the warm stuff anyways). I was thinking that since Bolivia is at high altitude it will be cold at night. But why not buy something warm and alpaca when there?

Kacenka - I managed to find the website of the company we used http://www.fairplay-peru.org/en/Volu...ourse_Details/ they have a number of options re length of course i.e. 5days, 2 or 5 weeks. We opted for the 5 days which, together with some previous basic study and a good phrase book gave us the basics needed to get by. For me, I doubt whether anything less than 5 days would be of any use.

We found the Fairplay approach worked well as the teachers and the helpers had very little English (and if they did they refused to use it so you had to communicate in Spanish). It was a fun way to learn as after the lessons we would go out to lots of different places e.g. markets, zoos restaurants and we would be encouraged to speak with the local people and, at the same time, get loads of free advice ablout how not to get ripped of by taxi drivers, how to stay safe on buses, where not to go etc...

The school can organise for you to stay with a local family (full board) at reasonable rates (more opps to practise your Spanish!) and you also have the opportunity of volunteer work in the afternoons if this is of interest to you.

Like most language courses I hav etried, you get out what you put in but what I liked about this approach was the practical application of the language right after the classroom session.

We also took some additional private lessons with an Argentine teacher in Ollantaytambo. If you are interested I could try and look up here email address - let me know.

PS IMHO your best bet on the clothing issue would be to take a waterproof jacket with a zip in fleece (or at least a separate fleece) as the nights particularly can get very cold at altitude. We also took some long thermal underwear which is cheap, really effective and, above all light to carry and pack.

It is a bit of a cliche I know but true nonetheless that, when packing for a long trip, you should "lay out all of your stuff and then throw half away and take twice the money you were planning" Believe me, travelling light will improve your enjoyment of the trip immensely!

I agree with the thermal underwear suggestion, just don't bring cotton. I have the polypropylene type which weighs next to nothing. Also get one of those cool Peruvian hats with the earflaps when you are in Cusco/SV.

I think this is a reasonable schedule. have fun!

Thank you so much guys, your help has been very much appreciated! :-)

Crellston, I have noted the website and we are considering staying in Cuzco for further 5 days after our MP trek to take the 5 day Spanish course. I'm not sure how to fit everything into our schedule but we will have to figure it out. I've got basic knowledge but I don't think it will be enough ...

Mlgb, I have noted your clothing suggestions; my husband loves those hats and you have only encouraged him now LOL!

Roll on September!! :-)

We await your trip report!

We will definitely write and keep up our blog whilst travelling. 2 months left! :-)

I've been to a fair number of places on your proposed itinerary, although on different trips. I would recommend adding the following places:

1) On your way from Cuzco to Puno, make a diversion to Chivay for a couple nights, and check out the Andean Condors in Colca Canyon. It will split up the long drive, and will also give you a once in a lifetime chance to see these giant birds.

2) It may be worthwhile to divert from the Sacred Valley to the Manu biosphere reserve for a couple of days, to see the monkeys, the macaws, the parrots, etc.

3) I highly recommend going from Uyuni to Chile, going through the altiplano, stopping at Laguna Colorada, Laguna Verde, etc. In November, that should be phenomenal - literally thousands of flamingos, plus unreal scenery. We just did this, but there weren't many flamingos since it is winter time and many of the lagoons freeze over. In summer there will be tons.

4) It's very easy to get from the Chilean/Bolivian border to San Pedro de Atacama, where 3-5 days are warranted. From there, you can take a nice paved road from San Pedro back to Salta in Argentina.

5) Torres del Paine, on the Chilean side in Patagonia, is phenomenal, and even though I haven't been to the Argentine to compare, I would still suggest giving Torres del Paine a go.

Hi mistadobalina,

I commented on your photos yesterday, again truly amazing! And thank you for the wonderful info on Bolivia, all noted.

We are actually going to Manu Reserve on a 7 day tour, have you been yourself?

Thank you for the tip about Colca Canyon, we will definitely include this. My husband is a keen bird watcher and he'll love this.

We were going to leave out Chile - no reason really beside our time frame is getting rather tight; also the fact that in my mind Argentina and Chile are very similar but Argentina has some additional things we would like to see/experience ... It's a tough choice, Torres del Paine looks simply amazing, hopefully the Argentinian side won't disappoint ...

I also recommend Colca, but note that it won't "split up the drive" from Cusco to Puno; it's actually five hours beyond Puno.

Afz is correct - my mistake. I was thinking Arequipa and Puno (which Chivay is between), not Cusco and Puno. That being said, buses are plentiful.

I've been to Ecuador, Galapagos and Peru several times. North of Quito, Mindo is a great place to check out the birds. Then go to Otavalo Market, which is open every day, but without a doubt is best to hit it on a Saturday.
South of Quito, go to Black Sheep Inn and hike the Quilatoa Crater Lake area.(can do 1-day hike) Plan to spend at least 2 days there. Also visit Tambopaxi Lodge at the base of the Cotopaxi Volcano, also for a little day hiking. (watch for tiger scorpions, they can get inside the buildings.)
In Quito I enjoyed the Guayasim museum and artisan market.

In Peru, I enjoyed the day long bus-ride from Puno to Cusco. I assume it's just as enjoyable in the reverse. The bus stopped at several interesting places and lunch was incredible. Loved the homestay on Amantani Island in Lake Titicaca. It's like going back in time.

Jwhitt,

many thanks for your tips on Ecuador, this will be very helpful. We won't have as much time as we would have liked but we will definitely manage to do Otavalo market and a few days to do some hiking around Cotopaxi and of course Quito.
Regards,
Katerina