Florence in March - off the beaten path.
Jan 11th, 2010, 06:01 AM
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Florence in March - off the beaten path.
My boyfriend and I will be traveling to Florence for seven nights in March from Chicago and I'm looking for trip/sightseeing ideas. It's my first international trip and we're youngins (25 - my 26 birthday will be overseas) so we have a lot of energy to run around and explore.
We're staying primarily in Florence and planning to take a day trip somewhere. Right now we're thinking Cinque Terre, but we're open to suggestions. We were also talking about visiting Milan, but we're worried this might be more hassle than it's worth.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to spend our days and places to go. My boyfriend is a designer and we're huge art and fashion lovers, so we're looking for things a little more Off-The-Beaten-Path. Though we do have lots of energy to keep moving from sun-up to sun-down, we aren't planning to spend our week running ourselves ragged. I describe it as "our Italian staycation".
Any thoughts on unique places to visit in Florence? And thoughts on day trips? IS Milan worth it to us to spend a few early hours on a train? We're open to spending one night in a different city if we simply must see it at sundown and two train trips in one day are too much. We're very interested in shopping, as well - but more in the sense of taking treasures home with us, than Italian knickknacks. BUT, being in our 20s, we're also working within a budget - we're taking a comfortable trip, but we're by no means high rollers.
Thanks for your help!
sarah.
We're staying primarily in Florence and planning to take a day trip somewhere. Right now we're thinking Cinque Terre, but we're open to suggestions. We were also talking about visiting Milan, but we're worried this might be more hassle than it's worth.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to spend our days and places to go. My boyfriend is a designer and we're huge art and fashion lovers, so we're looking for things a little more Off-The-Beaten-Path. Though we do have lots of energy to keep moving from sun-up to sun-down, we aren't planning to spend our week running ourselves ragged. I describe it as "our Italian staycation".
Any thoughts on unique places to visit in Florence? And thoughts on day trips? IS Milan worth it to us to spend a few early hours on a train? We're open to spending one night in a different city if we simply must see it at sundown and two train trips in one day are too much. We're very interested in shopping, as well - but more in the sense of taking treasures home with us, than Italian knickknacks. BUT, being in our 20s, we're also working within a budget - we're taking a comfortable trip, but we're by no means high rollers.
Thanks for your help!
sarah.
Jan 11th, 2010, 07:43 AM
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I'm not so knowledgeable about design and fashion, though I'm very much into art.
If by art, you mean you like any sort of art, then Florence has some of the best paintings and sculptures in the world, particularly if you like the Renaissance. Do include a visit to the Pitti Palace (the Palatin Gallery is the part of the Pitti Palace where the paintings are), which though a very messy collection, has some great works of art, including Raphael and one of my personal favorites, Artemsia Gentileschi.
But for fashion and design, seems like Milan is a mecca - though I doubt any place under this heading will be "off the beaten track," as Milan is known world-wide for fashion and design. The train trip to Milan is pretty easy, as I recall, and relatively short. No reason you would have to spend the night, though you could if you wanted.
If by art, you mean you like any sort of art, then Florence has some of the best paintings and sculptures in the world, particularly if you like the Renaissance. Do include a visit to the Pitti Palace (the Palatin Gallery is the part of the Pitti Palace where the paintings are), which though a very messy collection, has some great works of art, including Raphael and one of my personal favorites, Artemsia Gentileschi.
But for fashion and design, seems like Milan is a mecca - though I doubt any place under this heading will be "off the beaten track," as Milan is known world-wide for fashion and design. The train trip to Milan is pretty easy, as I recall, and relatively short. No reason you would have to spend the night, though you could if you wanted.
Jan 11th, 2010, 08:19 AM
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The Uffizi is a must as well as La Academia, you will have plenty of time to do all that Florence has to offer by way of museums. I would highly recommend Cinque Terre as a day trip. It is absolutely lovely and you can hike the hills in between the towns for some breathtaking vistas. Check the weather for that time of year though because it might still be chilly.
Day or half day trips to Montepulciano, Siena, and Pisa should be easily doable as well.
What do you mean by "off the beaten path". The context in which you suggest it, I think you mean "less touristy" as opposed to "secluded" or "back to nature". It is pretty difficult to find undiscovered places in Florence as every inch of the city center has been scoured by tourists.
Day or half day trips to Montepulciano, Siena, and Pisa should be easily doable as well.
What do you mean by "off the beaten path". The context in which you suggest it, I think you mean "less touristy" as opposed to "secluded" or "back to nature". It is pretty difficult to find undiscovered places in Florence as every inch of the city center has been scoured by tourists.
Jan 11th, 2010, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for your responses. By "off the beaten path" I was hoping for suggestions to areas people may not commonly think to visit or that wouldn't be part of a normal tourist experience. I understand Florence is a tourist mecca, but as a resident of a huge city that attracts more tourists than I care for, I was thinking of Florence in terms of my own city. There are absolutely places in Chicago no tourist would know to visit - unless by pure accident or suggestions from a resident. i.e. X block in X neighborhood is perfect for shopping/people watching/exploring/local flavor, but you'd never find it in a guide book. Or guidebooks tend to look over it because it's not an all-around crowd pleaser. I would think of New York City the same way.
I realize I'm visiting a tourist spot - and I'm fine with blending in with tourists to some extent - but I am also hoping to find some true gems that I won't be able to read about. I also realize to a certain extent this will happen naturally. But I was hoping to gather suggestions ahead of time, as well. Of course we'll visit popular museums and landmarks, but there have to be block and blocks of the city that don't naturally draw in tourists or might be more out of the way - and thus, harboring little Florence secrets.
I realize I'm visiting a tourist spot - and I'm fine with blending in with tourists to some extent - but I am also hoping to find some true gems that I won't be able to read about. I also realize to a certain extent this will happen naturally. But I was hoping to gather suggestions ahead of time, as well. Of course we'll visit popular museums and landmarks, but there have to be block and blocks of the city that don't naturally draw in tourists or might be more out of the way - and thus, harboring little Florence secrets.
Jan 11th, 2010, 09:04 AM
#6
Given what your boyfriend does, he will LOVE Milan. Both cities are smallish and walkable and you will definitely find things just by walking around... Milan is very under rated, but I guarantee you will love it and it is different from Florence - more real and less touristy. Go there! (I love Florence too.)
gruezi
gruezi
Jan 12th, 2010, 05:51 AM
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The only other village that I can think of that will get you a bit away from the major throngs of tourists and easily accessible from Florence is Fiesole. It is on a hill and over looks the Florentine city center. I had wonderful dinners at restaurants overlooking the city that had both wonderful food and a beautiful view. Unfortunately, the restaurants were picked out by a host of mine and I have forgotten the names, but with some research I'm sure you could find something equivalent. You can get there via a moderately priced taxi ride so it is convenient for an evening.
Florence is much smaller than Chicago and the city center is very condensed. I wonder if someone on here knows of anything outside of the Centro Stoico that is worth seeing? I made many business trips to Florence and my weekends were mainly spent in the center.
Florence is much smaller than Chicago and the city center is very condensed. I wonder if someone on here knows of anything outside of the Centro Stoico that is worth seeing? I made many business trips to Florence and my weekends were mainly spent in the center.
Jan 12th, 2010, 06:48 AM
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Hi ohgirlfriend!
Le Cinque Terre is too far for a day trip, and too iffy in March. I also think Milan is too far and too cold in March!
If you want to get off the tourist track in March and have a great daytrip? Go to Bologna. It's only 45 minutes by train from Firenze but it might as well be another planet culturally and it gets almost NO tourists, despite having not only a wealth of very satisfying sights, it has some of the most staggeringly delicious eats in Italy.
Best part: Bologna's historic center is mainly covered in porticoes, so even if it's raining or snowing, you can walk around enjoyably protected from the elements.
Things to do and see in Bologna other than eat (and what you may not find in a guidebook)
The anatomical theater in Bologna, centrally located (Google it up)
The terracotta grouping in the church of Santa Maria delle Vita, right down the alley from Bologna's most famous food shopping streets
The Morandi museum of Morandi's one of a kind modern oil paintings of bottles and vases (Google it up)
A walk up to the huge gilded sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca under 666 arched porticoes that protect you from rain.
And any guidebook can fill you in on the usual sights in Bologna: cathedral, monasteries, fountains, towers -- but try not to miss the memorial to those who died resisting the Nazis in Bologna, one of the most touching of its kind in Italy. It's off the piazza Maggiore.
Have fun! Bologna has fun shopping too -- especially if you shop for food treats on its legendary, historic market streets.
Le Cinque Terre is too far for a day trip, and too iffy in March. I also think Milan is too far and too cold in March!
If you want to get off the tourist track in March and have a great daytrip? Go to Bologna. It's only 45 minutes by train from Firenze but it might as well be another planet culturally and it gets almost NO tourists, despite having not only a wealth of very satisfying sights, it has some of the most staggeringly delicious eats in Italy.
Best part: Bologna's historic center is mainly covered in porticoes, so even if it's raining or snowing, you can walk around enjoyably protected from the elements.
Things to do and see in Bologna other than eat (and what you may not find in a guidebook)
The anatomical theater in Bologna, centrally located (Google it up)
The terracotta grouping in the church of Santa Maria delle Vita, right down the alley from Bologna's most famous food shopping streets
The Morandi museum of Morandi's one of a kind modern oil paintings of bottles and vases (Google it up)
A walk up to the huge gilded sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca under 666 arched porticoes that protect you from rain.
And any guidebook can fill you in on the usual sights in Bologna: cathedral, monasteries, fountains, towers -- but try not to miss the memorial to those who died resisting the Nazis in Bologna, one of the most touching of its kind in Italy. It's off the piazza Maggiore.
Have fun! Bologna has fun shopping too -- especially if you shop for food treats on its legendary, historic market streets.
Jan 12th, 2010, 06:53 AM
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I should add that Bologna is one of Italy's most important university towns, so bargain shopping abounds.
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/Jan...licbologna.htm
http://realtravel.com/e-168174-bolog...rip_to_bologna
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/Jan...licbologna.htm
http://realtravel.com/e-168174-bolog...rip_to_bologna
Jan 12th, 2010, 06:55 AM
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Hi, well I can suggest you to go absolutely in Milan if you like fashion and if you want to spend a day for shopping and rest!
So in Milan I think you can stay in a Bed and breakfast for at least two days between shopping and cultural walks.
In Florence you can go here http://www.italy-farmholidays.com/ag...aio/index_html it's a good start for walks inside the nature, and it's near the center of Florence.
In Florence you have to visit "Galleria degli Uffizi" because it's great! than you have The "Basilica di Santa Croce" and the "battistero". But don't stop the attention only in Florence city, near Florece there are many campaign (like Chianti one) good for horseriders, walks and excursions in small countries all around.
Have a nice stay!
So in Milan I think you can stay in a Bed and breakfast for at least two days between shopping and cultural walks.
In Florence you can go here http://www.italy-farmholidays.com/ag...aio/index_html it's a good start for walks inside the nature, and it's near the center of Florence.
In Florence you have to visit "Galleria degli Uffizi" because it's great! than you have The "Basilica di Santa Croce" and the "battistero". But don't stop the attention only in Florence city, near Florece there are many campaign (like Chianti one) good for horseriders, walks and excursions in small countries all around.
Have a nice stay!
Jan 12th, 2010, 09:31 AM
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To reassure you, Florence is not totally overrun with tourists all the time. We visited Florence for the third time last fall, and while I noticed more large group tours walking around in Florence than I did in Venice or Rome, I also pretty much only noticed them during the day (particularly in the morning). So by the evening, the city was a calmer, more normal (as in, a place where real people live) place.
Even in piazzas that you'll read about in guidebooks, by the evening they'll be lovely and peaceful (Santa Croce), or lively and interesting (Piazza della Republicca), though the latter piazza attracts a lot of tourists, too.
I'm not familiar enough with Florence to point out out-of-the-way areas like you're thinking of in Chicago. I used to live in Chicago, and know exactly what you mean, but even places that tourists don't tend to go to, like Devon Street, are often listed in Chicago guidebooks. So even if a place is listed in a Florence guidebook, doesn't mean that it won't feel real and non-touristy.
Another example - you'll read about Mercato Centrale in every tourist guide, and there are many stalls there directed toward the tourist trade. But plenty of locals go there to shop, too, and it will definitely feel Italian (in the seafood parts of the market, see how many types of fish you've never seen before). There's another market (that we didn't make it to) that's smaller and supposedly more local, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio, which is located in Piazza Ghiberti and Piazza Sant'Ambrogio. One fun thing we did at the Mercato - I bought a selection of four different types of Pecorino, and we had our own taste-testing, to see which we liked best.
Bologna is a great idea for a day trip (or overnight, though lodging there tends to be expensive). Fun, non-touristy, great food and markets.
Even in piazzas that you'll read about in guidebooks, by the evening they'll be lovely and peaceful (Santa Croce), or lively and interesting (Piazza della Republicca), though the latter piazza attracts a lot of tourists, too.
I'm not familiar enough with Florence to point out out-of-the-way areas like you're thinking of in Chicago. I used to live in Chicago, and know exactly what you mean, but even places that tourists don't tend to go to, like Devon Street, are often listed in Chicago guidebooks. So even if a place is listed in a Florence guidebook, doesn't mean that it won't feel real and non-touristy.
Another example - you'll read about Mercato Centrale in every tourist guide, and there are many stalls there directed toward the tourist trade. But plenty of locals go there to shop, too, and it will definitely feel Italian (in the seafood parts of the market, see how many types of fish you've never seen before). There's another market (that we didn't make it to) that's smaller and supposedly more local, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio, which is located in Piazza Ghiberti and Piazza Sant'Ambrogio. One fun thing we did at the Mercato - I bought a selection of four different types of Pecorino, and we had our own taste-testing, to see which we liked best.
Bologna is a great idea for a day trip (or overnight, though lodging there tends to be expensive). Fun, non-touristy, great food and markets.
Jan 13th, 2010, 11:41 PM
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- Milan is a bit underrated as a city, but to a large extent it's justified: it's big, dirty, crowded, and traffic-jammed. To really see Milan, you almost have to stay more than a couple of days to go beyond the big-cityness
- You should rent a car and explore either the souther Tuscan area or Emilia Romagna. Great views, and smaller art cities abound. Note: Bologna has good food, but March is still too out of season to get anything fresh
- For shopping, check out The Antique and Flea Markets of Italy by Marina Seveso. It's basically just a list of all the markets going on in the country in what day, and I find it a generally reliable source of info on what markets to hit-up.
- You should rent a car and explore either the souther Tuscan area or Emilia Romagna. Great views, and smaller art cities abound. Note: Bologna has good food, but March is still too out of season to get anything fresh
- For shopping, check out The Antique and Flea Markets of Italy by Marina Seveso. It's basically just a list of all the markets going on in the country in what day, and I find it a generally reliable source of info on what markets to hit-up.
Jan 14th, 2010, 05:13 PM
#14
Considering you're "huge art and fashion lovers," I vote for Milan. You can get there in 1:45 hours. The first fast train departs Florence at 7:00 am, and the last fast return train departs Milan at 8:15 pm. Both train stations are close to where you'll want to go, and the Milan station is connected by metro to all parts of the city.
Temps in Florence, Milan and Bologna will all be about the same and all quite a bit warmer than Chicago!
Temps in Florence, Milan and Bologna will all be about the same and all quite a bit warmer than Chicago!
Jan 15th, 2010, 05:55 AM
#15
<i>Milan is a bit underrated as a city, but to a large extent it's justified: it's big, dirty, crowded, and traffic-jammed.</i>
I have been to Milan twice and found this statement not to be true at all for me or my guests. We found it chic, bustling in a relaxed Italian sort of way, with great shopping & fashion, food, art, and people watching. I also found it very walkable. We stayed at the Hotel Spadari - about a block from the Duomo. Wonderful little hotel and perfect location.
I've been to all the major Italian cities and I find Milan one of my favorites because it feels more real to me. Local people doing their real lives...
gruezi
I have been to Milan twice and found this statement not to be true at all for me or my guests. We found it chic, bustling in a relaxed Italian sort of way, with great shopping & fashion, food, art, and people watching. I also found it very walkable. We stayed at the Hotel Spadari - about a block from the Duomo. Wonderful little hotel and perfect location.
I've been to all the major Italian cities and I find Milan one of my favorites because it feels more real to me. Local people doing their real lives...
gruezi
Jan 15th, 2010, 06:52 AM
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Be aware that if you choose to daytrip to Milan, that many stores observe the "pausa" and close by 12:30 and don't reopen until 3:30, so you need to catch the early train if shopping is the reason for the visit.
Jan 15th, 2010, 08:37 AM
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ohgirlfriend,
Another consideration is that you mentioned that two train trips in one day might be too much and you are willing to spend the night. If you choose Milano, you really must book a hotel in advance. It would be hard to make this a spontaneous day trip based on weather, mood, etc unless you know you will have enough access to internet in Firenze to ply the lastminute hotel websites. Weekends are often better for lastminute hotel deals in Milan.
Milan hotels tend to be quite expensive, so if you'd rather return on an 8:30 train, you might want to pack a dinner from Cracco-Peck. There is also a high end chain of take away foods called Princi, which has locations all over, including near 10 Corso Como, if that is your last stop.
Also, do check that if you have specific commercial or museum destinations in mind for Milan that they are open the day you plan to go. For instance, many Milan stores close Monday mornings.
I share everyone's enthusiasm for the city of Milano, but I've never tried to make it a day trip from Firenze. I wonder if those you are recommending it to you have done it themselves and could post the details of their day.
Another consideration is that you mentioned that two train trips in one day might be too much and you are willing to spend the night. If you choose Milano, you really must book a hotel in advance. It would be hard to make this a spontaneous day trip based on weather, mood, etc unless you know you will have enough access to internet in Firenze to ply the lastminute hotel websites. Weekends are often better for lastminute hotel deals in Milan.
Milan hotels tend to be quite expensive, so if you'd rather return on an 8:30 train, you might want to pack a dinner from Cracco-Peck. There is also a high end chain of take away foods called Princi, which has locations all over, including near 10 Corso Como, if that is your last stop.
Also, do check that if you have specific commercial or museum destinations in mind for Milan that they are open the day you plan to go. For instance, many Milan stores close Monday mornings.
I share everyone's enthusiasm for the city of Milano, but I've never tried to make it a day trip from Firenze. I wonder if those you are recommending it to you have done it themselves and could post the details of their day.
Jan 15th, 2010, 09:14 AM
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Stepsbeyond - Thank you!!! Your suggestions are incredible!! Your thoughts on Milan are sort of my fears. Though, being from Chicago, I don't shy away from bad weather. But I think Milan may deserve to be its own vacation destination, rather than a side-stop.
Jean - thank you for your thoughts on trains. They seem easy enough, but something about the timetables have been confusing me.
I'm thinking if we do the day-trip idea to anyplace that requires more than 1 1/2 hours on a train, we'll try to stay overnight (and book plenty in advance). I started looking up hotel prices in Milan and they are much steeper than what we're paying in Florence. Though the hotel deal we got in Florence is good enough to warrant a one-night splurge.
One more thought - because it seems like it would be beautiful at night time - what are thoughts on a Venice day trip? We have a few day trip ideas and ultimately I think it will come down to where we can go for the cheapest and least amount of 'hassle'. Wherever we chose to visit for our day/overnight trip, we will definitely book in advance.
Jean - thank you for your thoughts on trains. They seem easy enough, but something about the timetables have been confusing me.
I'm thinking if we do the day-trip idea to anyplace that requires more than 1 1/2 hours on a train, we'll try to stay overnight (and book plenty in advance). I started looking up hotel prices in Milan and they are much steeper than what we're paying in Florence. Though the hotel deal we got in Florence is good enough to warrant a one-night splurge.
One more thought - because it seems like it would be beautiful at night time - what are thoughts on a Venice day trip? We have a few day trip ideas and ultimately I think it will come down to where we can go for the cheapest and least amount of 'hassle'. Wherever we chose to visit for our day/overnight trip, we will definitely book in advance.
Jan 15th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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There is so much to see in Florence, much of it off the beaten path. I suggest you grab a copy of The Companion Guide to Florence, by Eve Borsook, and dig in. I think it is out of print, but copies can be found on-line. Sunset from piazzale Michelangelo is a must. Have a great trip.
