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Costa Rica--One Week Trip Report!

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Costa Rica--One Week Trip Report!

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Old Mar 22nd, 2004, 03:36 PM
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Costa Rica--One Week Trip Report!

We just returned from an exhilarating week in Costa Rica and here is how it went!

Day One: Arrived 2:00 p.m. Picked up 4X4
Suzuki Ignius at TriColor--no problems there, thank goodness. Someone had mentioned problems with the company claiming scratches or dents that weren't originally there, but it didn't happen to us. They found one tiny dent that was impossible to see unless examined very closely, and we thought there would be a problem, but they determined that it had already been there. So, at least based on our experience, I'd recommend TriColor. . the prices were extremely low--total was $291 for the week. Out of there by 4:00 p.m.

Arrived at La Finca Que Ama south and west of San Jose about 6:00. It is between Puriscal and San Pablo de Turrubares on a road we had not traveled before. We stopped along the way in San Antonio de Belen at a new strip mall that was quite impressive. . ATM in addition to a teller who exchanged dollars for us, fantastic mega super, and several nice shops.

When we arrived, we were met by Neta and Arbel, the owners of La Finca who escorted us promptly to the restaurant verandah overlooking the mountains for the evening sunset spectacular--and it was just that! They were so gracious, offered us drinks, showed us to our room. There are 5 cabinas, each with 2 units arranged on the hillside above a river. They wanted us to know that only ONE tree had to be removed in the building of the property, and we thoroughly enjoyed hearing about their experiences of dealing with the local people in the building of this new hotel. Neta and Arbel are a young couple (mid to late twenties) from Israel. They also had as guests Neta's mother and aunt. The property had a very nice infinity swimming pool and sunning area and the rooms were great. We were particularly impressed by the TV and DVD player--nice to have when the nights falls so early in the countryside! Also, the bathroom boasted a very nice Jacuzzi tub--something rare in Costa Rica! Plenty of room and very comfortable. Dinner was served at 7:00 and it was a culinary delight! I have to tell you about it because we don't tend to go to Costa Rica to enjoy gourmet meals, and this was definitely one! Diced papaya with an oil dressing, topped by crumbled blue cheese and served with tostito chips; pea soup sprinkled with cinnamon and buttery croutons; stuffed salmon (if I remember correctly)--2 pieces stuffed with a breaded dressing and a chunky tomato sauce, green beans, a very tasty green salad, rice with pine nuts from Israel. We were offered second helpings, but we were almost stuffed ourselves! Not too full to enjoy the homemade (with whipped cream) strawberry ice cream served with kiwi slices followed by a delicious coffee liquer. Simply wonderful! I think Neta said her mother comes up with these recipes. They combination of tastes were very different and unusual, but very very good. Neta called us at 6:00 the next morning, by request, so we would have time to explore the property down toward the river before 7:00 breakfast which consisted of ALL of the following: mixed fruit (papaya, apple, pear, star fruit, pineapple, mango), homemade Costa Rican bread, toast, cheeses, scrambled eggs, cereal, mild, fresh OJ, coffee. We had to get an early start on the day, but not before we were offered use of the computer for e-mailing family and friends and 2 sandwiches for lunch since we were headed for the Puntarenas ferry. Next trip we will explore this area more. La Finca Que Ama was a very pleasant surprise!
So thank you very much, Neta, of costaricafinca.com fame!

Day 2: Arrived via the 10:30 a.m. ferry to Paquera about noon and drove to Mal Pais/Santa Teresa beaches. Took almost two hours to make this 60km journey as the roads in this part of the Nicoya are not paved past Cobano. We had booked 4 nights at Tropico Latino in Sta. Teresa and were thrilled to find that we had the best bungalow on the property--right in front of the beach with a fantastic view. There was another oceanview bungalow directly behind us, but their view wouldn't have been nearly as wonderful. Lucky here, I guess! The other bungalows faced each other on opposite sides of the walkway from the parking lot to the restaurant reception area. Although they looked very nice, they were definitely "garden view" only. Our bungalow had a king bed and a twin bed on the other side of a partial wall. There was plenty of room, and, although not airtight, we didn't see any "critters". We loved the hammock in front of the bungalow, and there were a lot of hammocks scattered along the beach. Again, sunsets here were an "event" and people would gather about 5:15 for the show. Got some great photos. This is surfer territory, and evening entertainment was not available. I think the surfers get an early start on the day and are pretty tired by evening, even if they are mostly kids! So we went to bed early and got up early. Definitely a good place if you have relaxing on your mind. The "town" was along the main road behind this beachfront property. We only ate one meal at the restaurant--one evening--and it was fairly uninspiring--about $12 each. Most of the time we ate at Charlie's--a little soda down the road, or Frank's Place--a hotel/restaurant--for $3-$5. Both served typical Tico meals--plain but good. We even bought some bread, cheese, and yogurt to "do" our own breakfast one morning. We paid $95 per night for our bungalow--taxes included, but not breakfast. One thing to note--this hotel doesn't take credit cards, so be prepared with enough cash. The ATM at Cobano wouldn't accept our card, so we had to arrange our dining preferences accordingly!

Day 3: Just relaxed at the hotel and read all day.

Day 4: Left 7:00 for Montezuma to have breakfast before hiking to the famous Montezuma waterfall. This is where all the action is in the area! Large concentration of very young (we are 50ish), plenty of restaurants, bars, shops--actually a town here with, I am sure, a more vibrant nightlife if that is what one is looking for. The waterfall was beautiful even now during the dry season with a refreshingly cold pool at its base--40 ft. deep we were told. It seemed popular for the more daring young men to climb up the side of the wall next to the falls and dive--some even from the top, but there are signs posted about the dangers and there have been a few deaths here. If you have extra energy, you can climb up a very steep path (we used crisscrossing and sturdy tree roots to pull ourselves up) for about 15 minutes and you will arrive up ABOVE a second higher falls and pool. But to get down to this falls, one must descend a sheer wall of about 30 feet assisted by a rope. Having worn sandals rather than tennis shoes, we decided at this point that the trail we had already climbed had challenged us quite enough, thank you, so we gave up on this last "opportunity" and climbed back down. Others were doing it--no problem!

Day 5: Returned again early the next morning to hike the Cabo Blanco Reserve (closed on Monday and Tuesday). At the very tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, Cabo Blanco costs $8 per person, but the hike was quite interesting. It was a very difficult one to be sure, but we really felt like we had accomplished something when we completed it all in one piece and still breathing. One can take a shorter circular trail for about an hour and a half, but we choose to continue on up the trail, up and over the ridge, down the other side to the beach. Two hours each way, with an hour of rest at the beach. This should not be undertaken without plenty of water (several took food along for a snack upon arrival), good shoes, and an early start. We began at 9:00 (park opens at 8:00), arrived 11:00, rested, and hiked back between 12:00 noon and 2:00--the hottest time of the day during the hottest time of the year. During the beginning of the ascent when we our return hike, we wondered a time or two if we had bitten off a little more than we would be able to chew, but once the trail began descending through the (both primary and secondary) forest, we were able to breathe a little easier (literally). The great part was that we saw lots of wildlife. An anteater, two little deer, a troop of white faced monkeys playing in the trees, in a stream, and on the trail all around us. Also lots of lizards and birds. Every little tiny animal made a huge amount of noise in the dry leaves. This park closes at 4:00, and it is MOST advisable to plan to return to base by that time. It wouldn't be a good idea in the dark, by any stretch of the imagination. One thing that we were glad of--showers and potable water at the beach.

Day 6: Caught the 8:30 ferry back to Puntarenas and headed up to the north part of the peninsula to places we have enjoyed before. Stayed the night at one of our favorites. . .$35 per night at the Hotel Brasilto. Some would say a dirty little town, dirty little beach, and I don't know what it says about us, but we like it here! 5 minutes from the beautiful Paradisus Playa Conchal and another 5-10 minutes from Playa Flamingo, it isn't a bad location to spend a little time. Our favorite room at the Hotel Brasilito is upstairs, just steps from the beach. Very basic, but always clean, plenty of room, good bed, ceiling fan, hot shower (not that we needed THAT in March)! Bought our way onto the Paradisus property for an evening meal and the dance show. By this time, we were ready for a little evening entertainment and music, so it was an enjoyable time. . .also we have friends who are on the dance team, and it is always a pleasure to look them up and watch their new routines!

Day 7: Had a great massage at Flamingo Beach Resort--a French couple own the beauty salon and massage room here and Carolina gives the best we've ever had--$40 per hour. Chris, her husband, bears a stron resemblance to George Clooney. Just thought you'd want to know! Very strong hands. . .very relaxing. Caroline's hands, that is. I don't know about Chris's! Left the area around noon and drove further north to the Papagayo area to visit another young woman (whom we met a few years ago) at the new Four Seasons. She was supposed to be working at the Kids' Club there, but after "talking" our way onto the property and soliciting the help of a very nice young Tico employee, we found she had not begun yet and was still at Allegro Papagayo. Well, that's another story, but let me just say that the Four Seasons, although it may appeal to some, would not be our cup of tea. First of all, minimum room price (during the low season) is almost $400 ($100 each more for all-inclusive). RANGING UP TO $5000. Some of you who are more wealthy may be snickering, but, even if we could afford it, I hope we would not want to come to a place as naturally beautiful as Costa Rica and stay at a resort that has taken up a huge amount of land, put in a hand bricked 7km road to the property, replaced all the natural beauty with artificial landscaping, etc. etc. etc. The entire property had an "attitude" about it. BUT, the young man who helped me--by walking me down to the Kid's Club and making a few phone calls to locate our friend--wanted me to know that THAT is the kind of service one gets at the Four Seasons regardless of whether you are staying there or not. And he WAS very kind, and I was most appreciative. By the way, they do give tours here twice a day--10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. for those who want to check it out before reserving. Enough said. On to San Jose.

Day 8: Stayed at the Hotel Don Carlos, whose staff is always so gracious. . .$87 including taxes and breakfast. Walked down the pedestrian mall to the Mercado Central (hadn't done that before and it was interesting on a busy Saturday morning). We have done about all we care to do in San Jose, having spent several mornings like this one checking out the museums, parks, etc. And having used the Hotel Don Carlos as a base for exploring the central valley. Perhaps next time we will choose to stay in a quieter area out of town in Alajuela or Heredia--near the airport. Can't wait to return either in June or July for a couple of weeks. This was our 7th trip to C. R. and we saw some new parts of the country. We still have our list of places we'd like to go, so we are looking forward to many returns!
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Old Mar 22nd, 2004, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for your report; it's printing out for me so I can take my time and read in bed later!
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Old Mar 24th, 2004, 05:39 AM
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Shillmac, thanks for the report. The sunsets in Malpais/Santa Teresa are beautiful! Glad you had a great time. Sounds like we will be skipping the new Four Seasons on our next trip but will certainly check out La Finca Que Ama ;-)
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Old Mar 24th, 2004, 02:54 PM
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Dear Shillmac - Thanks for the kind words. We hope to see you soon again!

Traveljoyce and Iza - Fodor's forums are non-commercial, and I almost never mention the hotel online, as I believe it is not appropriate. However, I wanted to tell you that we would love to have you stay with us on your next trip, and please feel free to write me directly for any more information.
Pura Vida,
Neta Talmor
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for the wonderful report! Very informative. How much of the trip did you book in advance vs. on the go kind of traveling?
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 05:32 PM
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Because it was Spring Break, we booked everything in advance. We are returning in June and will book very little in advance. One of our main reasons for booking ahead is if we want to guarantee a place that we know and like. We are hoping that end of June/first of July we can travel down to the Wilson Botanical Garden area of the country and we don't know anything about the necessity of reserving ahead down there. Also, Fodorites, I'd like to hear of your suggestions of where to stay in that area.
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 06:14 PM
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Thank you so much for such an informative message. I'm going to CR in August, by myself. I'm a teacher, single, female, a seasoned traveler and in my 50's. Do you think travel by myself is any problem other than the usual caution one would assume? I'll have 10 days there and haven't decided how to break it up between the city and the beaches. I'm thinking I'll avoid the Carribean side this time of year and stick to the Pacific side. You mentioned Guanacaste as a good prospect weather-wise for August. Do you have any hotel recommendations, reasonable, in that area? Thanks again. I need all the input I can get.
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 06:26 PM
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Dear tlrobertson,
There are really no guarantees about the weather, and indeed the north is drier, and the Caribbean is both less predictable in terms of rain and I would think not as safe for a woman traveling on her own, but you shouldn't worry about it too much, no matter where you decide to go. Most of the time, you will enjoy bright mornings and will be able to do all your activities as long as you finish them by early afternoon. The rain usually starts in the afternoon, and only for a couple of hours.
Since you will be traveling alone, I think your best way to move around, would probably be with shuttle buses (usually cost $25). I wouldn't recommend renting a car, when traveling alone.
Please feel free to write me directly for any more info.
Pura vida,
Neta Talmor
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 07:17 PM
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The central valley and the Pacific side, I agree, are your best options for a 10 day solo trip. In Guanacaste (northern Pacific area), there are many nice places to stay. You can best check them out on your own online since you have plenty of time for planning and researching. The Manuel Antonio area offers a wide range of lovely places and you really shouldn't miss that park. In Guanacaste, I'd look in the Flamingo Beach Resort Hotel (not Flamingo Marina Resort) at Playa Flamingo. Its swim up bar pool is just steps from one of the the prettiest beaches in the country. Tamarindo offers some nice hotels and is worth a visit. Further north, the Playa Hermosa area is interesting to visit. You shouldn't have any trouble traveling alone--we particularly feel safer once we get out of the San Jose area. I agree with Neta that private transfers are probably your best option for transportation. If you should find yourself using the public bus system (it's cheap and many do), you will need to be able to keep an eye on your belongings at all times. The bus system is notorious in Costa Rica for baggage/backpack theft. Almost everyone we have talked to who has had a problem with their belongings being stolen, it happened on the public bus. Although, if you go to any of the more touristed areas, you'll need to exercise extra caution. But, if you are a seasoned traveler, of course you already know how to look after yourself. Have a great time! Beautiful country!
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Old Mar 27th, 2004, 08:04 PM
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Shillmac,
We spent a few days down in San Vito a few years ago. San Vito is a nice enough town but the hotel options are not all that great. You won't need advance reservations unless you want to actually stay at Wilson. Unfortunately, when we arrived we found out they were full even though we had reservations. They put us in one of the student dorm rooms with bunk beds and no bathroom. We had already paid for the room so couldn't get our money back but went into town and found another place there. The last night we were in the area the Wilson room became available but we decided it wasn't worth packing and moving. We did take a peek at the room they gave us. It was very nice. The gardens were nice and worth stopping in if you are in the area. We actually took the longer hike as well as just around the gardens. The trail didn't look like it had been used in quite some time. I didn't want to think about how many snakes we had not seen because of the tall weeds and grasses. It was probably one of the toughest hikes we have ever done. The food at Wilson was good. The birding at the feeding stations near the entrance and the dining hall was great. Not a place I would ever really care to go back to unless I happened to be traveling through and needed a place to stay.
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Old Mar 28th, 2004, 08:02 AM
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So, Suzie, looking at this entire area AROUND San Vito, do you think for people like us who want to see the entire country a piece at a time, it would be worth the visit? Whether we stayed at San Vito, Wilson, or not, are there other parts of this area that you think we would enjoy exploring? We are not birders, but we do want to see and know all of Costa Rica! What about La Amistad? We have heard that it isn't particularly memorable. . know anything about it?
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