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Provence in August - 7/8 days

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Old May 5th, 2022, 07:06 PM
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Provence in August - 7/8 days

Hi,

My boyfriend and I will be in Provence the third week of August. We will be based near the Atelier de Cezanne (Aix-en-Provence), and we will have a car for day trips.

These are our plans so far (bare in mind that we are not extreme beach lovers and we don't like wine, wine tastings....)

- Day 1: Arrival in Aix-en-Provence in the afternoon (maybe have dinner around town);

- Day 2: Gorges du Verdon and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie;

- Day 3: Luberon villages: Oppède le Vieux, Ménerbes, Lacoste, Goult and Gordes;

- Day 4: Luberon villages: Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lourmarin, Cucuron and Ansouis;

- Day 5: Carrières de Lumières, Baux de Provence and Arles;

- Day 6: Calanques de Cassis and Cassis;

- Day 7: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Avignon;

- Day 8: Aix-en-Provence..... (our flight leaves at 11 pm).

Would you consider visiting those many Luberon villages? Would that route be okay for each Luberon day?

Also, do you think it would be feasible to visit Les Baux and Carrières on the same day as Saint-Rémy and Avignon? That way we could have some free time on the day in Arles and maybe end that day at the Camargue Ornithological Park or the Salin-de-Giraud.

What about the last day? Would you consider anything besides visiting Aix?

Thanks.

Last edited by adrianavieira7858; May 5th, 2022 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Adding a tag
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Old May 6th, 2022, 07:35 AM
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Welcome to Fodors!!

Your itinerary is fine, if you'll be based in Aix (which isn't very "central" IMO).

Just make sure you don't find yourself in Aix, Moustiers, Lourmarin, Avignon, or Arles on a Sunday or Monday morning when most/all shops will be closed.

The following is from my 35 page Provence & Cote d'Azur itinerary, which I'll also attach.

Something to be aware of when visiting the cities, towns, & villages of Provence

In many towns & villages, shops are closed on Sunday & Monday. Some shops open on Monday afternoon. We never plan to visit a town (for shopping) on a Sunday or Monday unless we know in advance that the stores will be open. Most non-food stores in Aix, Nimes, and Avignon are closed all day Sunday, and Monday morning. While in Aix in late June ’17, I did a “survey” of 27 shops that had opening & closing days & times posted on their storefronts, and were not on the Cours Mirabeau (lots of chain stores there). Of these 27 shops, 7 were open all day Monday, 8 were closed all day Monday, and 11 were open Monday afternoon only. Only 1 shop was open on Sunday. In Avignon, of the 17 shops I surveyed, 7 were closed all day Monday, and 10 were open Monday afternoon only. None were open on Sunday. Shops in very “touristy” towns like St Paul, St Tropez, and Gordes are always open. We were recently in St Remy on a Sunday. My wife visited 11 shops that interested her (she likes housewares – no clothes or souvenirs). Two other shops looked interesting from the outside, but were closed on Sunday. Of these 11 shops, 5 were closed all day on Monday, 2 were only open Monday afternoon (around 2:30), and 4 were open all day Monday. The very touristy shops that are prevalent in almost every tourist destination village in Provence (Olivades, Souleiado, Terre de Provence), are usually open on Sunday & Monday.



http://about-france.com/holidays-sundays.htm



Most shops & sites close for lunch – usually from 12:30 to 2:00, or 3:00, or 3:30, or 4:00. If you really want to “shop” a town, do so in the morning as soon as the stores open (usually at 10:00). If you roll in at 2:30, the shops might be closed for another hour. I’ve had numerous people tell me how disappointed they were when they drove to a town to shop, only to find almost all the shops closed – something that doesn’t happen in the US.



When stores are closed on a Sunday/Monday or for lunch, they will often pull down ugly aluminum louvered shutters over their beautiful storefronts – so you can’t even window shop. In some towns, these louvered shutters might be covered with graffiti, and the town will look like a war zone. Also, as you drive through a town around lunch time, it might seem deserted, unfriendly, & very uninviting. They’re actually closed for lunch and all the pretty storefronts will seem like abandoned buildings. These closings make it much harder to pack as much into a day as you might expect. Stores stay open late (around 8:00 or so), but most vacationers usually stop their sightseeing by then and are settling into their hotels or getting ready for dinner.

Stu Dudley



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Old May 6th, 2022, 08:41 AM
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I have stayed in Lourmarin a few times and have found Sunday one of the best days for shopping and a long lunch. Everything was open. Monday is the day to skip Lourmarin- most restaurants and shops are closed on Monday.

Enjoy your trip!
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Old May 6th, 2022, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by zoecat
I have stayed in Lourmarin a few times and have found Sunday one of the best days for shopping and a long lunch. Everything was open. Monday is the day to skip Lourmarin- most restaurants and shops are closed on Monday.

Enjoy your trip!

Thanks for the info zoecat. Lourmarin must fit into the "tourist oriented" category like Gordes & Roussillon, and is "allowed" to be open on Sundays.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 6th, 2022, 01:34 PM
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If you have to go shopping a lot, I guess that's good advice but there is only so much stuff you can buy in your life. That doesn't enter my calculus as I don't like buying stuff that much but there are weekly markets in some towns on Sunday and Monday, actually. Of course, l'Isle sur la Sorgue has a humongous one on Sundays. Cadenet has one on Monday mornings but it's small, and Avignon has a flea market on Sunday mornings.at place des Carmes. They have a food one also in a different place, but that wouldn't be on a driving excursion of course. Aix has markets every day, they have an excellent booklet on their website explaining the type every day and location. here
https://www.aixenprovence.fr/Les-mar...-la-ville-3694
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Old May 6th, 2022, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by StuDudley
Welcome to Fodors!!

Your itinerary is fine, if you'll be based in Aix (which isn't very "central" IMO).

Just make sure you don't find yourself in Aix, Moustiers, Lourmarin, Avignon, or Arles on a Sunday or Monday morning when most/all shops will be closed.

The following is from my 35 page Provence & Cote d'Azur itinerary, which I'll also attach.

Something to be aware of when visiting the cities, towns, & villages of Provence

In many towns & villages, shops are closed on Sunday & Monday. Some shops open on Monday afternoon. We never plan to visit a town (for shopping) on a Sunday or Monday unless we know in advance that the stores will be open. Most non-food stores in Aix, Nimes, and Avignon are closed all day Sunday, and Monday morning. While in Aix in late June ’17, I did a “survey” of 27 shops that had opening & closing days & times posted on their storefronts, and were not on the Cours Mirabeau (lots of chain stores there). Of these 27 shops, 7 were open all day Monday, 8 were closed all day Monday, and 11 were open Monday afternoon only. Only 1 shop was open on Sunday. In Avignon, of the 17 shops I surveyed, 7 were closed all day Monday, and 10 were open Monday afternoon only. None were open on Sunday. Shops in very “touristy” towns like St Paul, St Tropez, and Gordes are always open. We were recently in St Remy on a Sunday. My wife visited 11 shops that interested her (she likes housewares – no clothes or souvenirs). Two other shops looked interesting from the outside, but were closed on Sunday. Of these 11 shops, 5 were closed all day on Monday, 2 were only open Monday afternoon (around 2:30), and 4 were open all day Monday. The very touristy shops that are prevalent in almost every tourist destination village in Provence (Olivades, Souleiado, Terre de Provence), are usually open on Sunday & Monday.



Most shops & sites close for lunch – usually from 12:30 to 2:00, or 3:00, or 3:30, or 4:00. If you really want to “shop” a town, do so in the morning as soon as the stores open (usually at 10:00). If you roll in at 2:30, the shops might be closed for another hour. I’ve had numerous people tell me how disappointed they were when they drove to a town to shop, only to find almost all the shops closed – something that doesn’t happen in the US.



When stores are closed on a Sunday/Monday or for lunch, they will often pull down ugly aluminum louvered shutters over their beautiful storefronts – so you can’t even window shop. In some towns, these louvered shutters might be covered with graffiti, and the town will look like a war zone. Also, as you drive through a town around lunch time, it might seem deserted, unfriendly, & very uninviting. They’re actually closed for lunch and all the pretty storefronts will seem like abandoned buildings. These closings make it much harder to pack as much into a day as you might expect. Stores stay open late (around 8:00 or so), but most vacationers usually stop their sightseeing by then and are settling into their hotels or getting ready for dinner.

Stu Dudley
Thanks for your reply. We were unsure about staying in only one location, but we think it is for the best since we can shift our plans from day to day if needed. Aix appeared to be about the same distance from almost all the places we wanted to fit in the itinerary, hence the choice.

As for stores and services being closed, it is much like here in Portugal. Sunday and Mondays are a bit quieter.
But thank you, this is an important reminder. Since we are used to it, we sometimes forget to check for opening hours. I'll check opening times for what we want to visit (more so monuments, restaurants and museums, than stores... we don't really shop that much and we don't have much space either, since we travel carry-on only) and I'll arrange the itinerary accordingly.
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Old May 6th, 2022, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by zoecat
I have stayed in Lourmarin a few times and have found Sunday one of the best days for shopping and a long lunch. Everything was open. Monday is the day to skip Lourmarin- most restaurants and shops are closed on Monday.

Enjoy your trip!
Thanks zoecat, this is good info.
Do you think I can fit all those Luberon villages in two days? Do you think that plan is feasible?
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Old May 6th, 2022, 02:38 PM
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I'm sorry, StuDudley, it appears I can't quote your answer, because it has a link?

Anyway.... Thanks for your reply. We were unsure about staying in only one location, but we think it is for the best since we can shift our plans from day to day if needed. Aix appeared to be about the same distance from almost all the places we wanted to fit in the itinerary, hence the choice.

As for stores and services being closed, it is much like here in Portugal. Sunday and Mondays are a bit quieter.
But thank you, this is an important reminder. Since we are used to it, we sometimes forget to check for opening hours. I'll check opening times for what we want to visit (more so monuments, restaurants and museums, than stores... we don't really shop that much and we don't have much space either, since we travel carry-on only) and I'll arrange the itinerary accordingly.
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Old May 6th, 2022, 02:43 PM
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Hi Christina. I'm not huge on shopping either, nor do I have the space to bring stuff home (we travel carry-on only), but yes, I would like to visit some Provençal markets.
Thanks for the tips on that matter.

Do you have any insights about my other question? Thanks.
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Old May 6th, 2022, 03:50 PM
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Here is something I wrote many years ago about visiting the "upper" Luberon in one day. Visiting this section is "doable" - but if you want to enjoy a leisurely lunch, not get up at the crack of dawn from Aix - I would not recommend it. But upper Luberon & smaller lower (Lourmarin, Cucuron and Ansouis) is doable in 2 days, IMO.

Luberon - Time schedule

8:00 or 8:30 - Get to Gordes, pull the car over at the view "spot" & take a picture. Park the car in the lot, and visit Gordes. Have a cafe creme & croissants for breakfast at one of the outdoor cafes. Walk down to the Lavoire & back. Explore Gordes.
10:00 leave Gordes.
10:30 arrive in Oppede le Vieux & explore a bit
11:30 leave Oppede, drive to Menerbes
11:45 arrive in Menerbes & explore. Grab a sandwich for lunch & sit on a bench with a view & have lunch.
12:45 leave Menerbes
1:00 arrive in Lacoste, drive up towards the village & view Bonnieux across the valley. No visit of Lacoste. Drive to Bonnieux.
1:45 Visit Bonnieux (sandwich, if you didn't have one in Menerbes)
3:15 leave Bonnieux & head to Roussillon.
3:45 arrive in Roussillon, park the car, and explore Roussillon. Visit the Ocre fields. Have an afternoon coffee at a cafe.
5:45 Leave Roussillon. If you still have some energy left, visit Goult - otherwise, call it a day.

Stu Dudley

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Old May 8th, 2022, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by StuDudley
Here is something I wrote many years ago about visiting the "upper" Luberon in one day. Visiting this section is "doable" - but if you want to enjoy a leisurely lunch, not get up at the crack of dawn from Aix - I would not recommend it. But upper Luberon & smaller lower (Lourmarin, Cucuron and Ansouis) is doable in 2 days, IMO.

Luberon - Time schedule

8:00 or 8:30 - Get to Gordes, pull the car over at the view "spot" & take a picture. Park the car in the lot, and visit Gordes. Have a cafe creme & croissants for breakfast at one of the outdoor cafes. Walk down to the Lavoire & back. Explore Gordes.
10:00 leave Gordes.
10:30 arrive in Oppede le Vieux & explore a bit
11:30 leave Oppede, drive to Menerbes
11:45 arrive in Menerbes & explore. Grab a sandwich for lunch & sit on a bench with a view & have lunch.
12:45 leave Menerbes
1:00 arrive in Lacoste, drive up towards the village & view Bonnieux across the valley. No visit of Lacoste. Drive to Bonnieux.
1:45 Visit Bonnieux (sandwich, if you didn't have one in Menerbes)
3:15 leave Bonnieux & head to Roussillon.
3:45 arrive in Roussillon, park the car, and explore Roussillon. Visit the Ocre fields. Have an afternoon coffee at a cafe.
5:45 Leave Roussillon. If you still have some energy left, visit Goult - otherwise, call it a day.

Stu Dudley
This sounds great Stu! It helped a lot. Thank you so much!!!
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Old May 24th, 2022, 03:14 PM
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I liked all the places you mentioned. The Gorges de Verdon was special, amazing drive through
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Old May 24th, 2022, 09:59 PM
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Have you already booked your car rental for August? It’s very expensive all over the south of France, (over $500 for a week in some cases) as we’ve discovered.
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Old May 25th, 2022, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by zoecat
I have stayed in Lourmarin a few times and have found Sunday one of the best days for shopping and a long lunch. Everything was open. Monday is the day to skip Lourmarin- most restaurants and shops are closed on Monday.

Enjoy your trip!
It might depend on time of year or just the morning - I visited Lourmarin last Monday afternoon (May 16) on a tour and didn’t come across any major closures (just checked my photos to confirm). The linen store Au Fil Du Lin for instance was open as well as the Cafe Gaby.

Aix definitely had a lot of Sunday closures so do keep that in mind. Place Richelme and Augustins were still lively though (I’m guessing Cardeurs too) so drinks aren’t an issue, but you won’t have the full selection of restaurants available.

I had an amazing time and I’m sure you will too, enjoy!


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Old Jul 20th, 2022, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cigalechanta
I liked all the places you mentioned. The Gorges de Verdon was special, amazing drive through
Thank you... It is great to know that
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Old Jul 20th, 2022, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by balthy
Have you already booked your car rental for August? It’s very expensive all over the south of France, (over $500 for a week in some cases) as we’ve discovered.
I think I'm a little late to your question. Somehow I didn't get a notification of a message here. I'm sorry!
Yes, the prices are insane in south of France. As in most of Europe actually (I saw some regions with rental fees around a thousand per week). However, we did have a voucher from our roadtrip to Scotland that was suppose to happen in 2020 and it didn't, cause covid. The voucher was about to expire, so we used that to book our car.
​​​​​​
Prices dropped out a little bit in the past weeks. One can get a car for less than 500 at the moment (with supercover and unlimited miles).
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Old Jul 20th, 2022, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lfeuln
It might depend on time of year or just the morning - I visited Lourmarin last Monday afternoon (May 16) on a tour and didn’t come across any major closures (just checked my photos to confirm). The linen store Au Fil Du Lin for instance was open as well as the Cafe Gaby.

Aix definitely had a lot of Sunday closures so do keep that in mind. Place Richelme and Augustins were still lively though (I’m guessing Cardeurs too) so drinks aren’t an issue, but you won’t have the full selection of restaurants available.

I had an amazing time and I’m sure you will too, enjoy!
Thanks for the tips!! I am actually trying to arranje the days so we get the most out of everything. However, we have the itinerary open to last minute changes, due to fire hazards at multiple places :/ (this is the main reason we chose to base ourselves on just one location rather than two).
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Old Jul 21st, 2022, 03:50 AM
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Here is a website I found helpful for my own planning for Provence this August. If you scroll down there are the days of the week and which towns have markets which days. You might use that to plan a visit when they DO have the market (and enjoy the market) or when they DON'T have the market (and so likely less crowded). Enjoy the planning!

https://provencedays.com/explore/activities/markets/
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Old Jul 21st, 2022, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by laurie_ann
Here is a website I found helpful for my own planning for Provence this August. If you scroll down there are the days of the week and which towns have markets which days. You might use that to plan a visit when they DO have the market (and enjoy the market) or when they DON'T have the market (and so likely less crowded). Enjoy the planning!

Thank you so much. In fact, this is the information I was looking for the past few days, but I only found it on separate websites, and I hadn't found it all yet. This way I can see everything in one place. It makes it a lot easier Hope you enjoy your trip!!!
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Old Jul 21st, 2022, 04:23 AM
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If anyone is planning to visit the Calanques, download the Mes Calanques app. It is very useful to see the fire risk warnings, if the Calanques or roads around will be closed or open, and even some activities one can enjoy!!!
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