mgwest

My wife and I had a trip planned to BA in 2011 that was cancelled due to volcanic ash from Chile (Washington flight cancelled). We have now rented an apartment near Don Julio's restaurant and plan to come in March for 2 weeks. We used these boards in 2011 and I see that many who helped us do are planning then are still active (avrooster, MarnieWDC, Crellston, to name a few). We are retired Canadians (early 70's) and have travelled extensively (Europe, Asia, Australia, US, etc). We are attuned to safety situations and make efforts to be careful. Having said that there are a few areas where I need advice.

1. Argentina still seems to have a heavy dependence on cash. I have prepaid for 4 tours but need to bring cash for my apartment plus living expenses (groceries, restaurants, other activities, transportation, souvenirs, etc.) I need to know where I can use my credit card to get a feel for how much cash to bring. Currently I'm thinking of $2,000 US (excluding apartment) and planning to convert $1,000 US to pesos at the airport, using Banco de la Nacion in Terminal A arrivals, to get some 1000, 500, 200, 100 and smaller bills if available (I read that I need crisp $100 & $50 US bills to do this exchange??). I'm aware that the ATM's have high fees and low withdrawal amounts so it would be nice to avoid this if possible. Can I exchange US $'s at a local branch of Banco de la Nacion? I could bring the 2nd $1,000 US in smaller bills (nothing larger than $50 US) but if I can exchange at the bank, would I need larger denominations? So you can see that I'm uncertain about how much cash to bring and in what denominations. Of course exchange rates at the airport and in the city come into consideration as well. Any advice would be appreciated.
2. I'm thinking of getting a SUBE card and loading 500 pesos on it and both my wife and I would use the same card. We are close to Linea "D" so would use the Subtle to pick up tours downtown, visit Theatra Colon,, Palacio Barolo, etc.. Does this sound like a sensible thing to do or should we just take Radio Taxi's?
3. We like different restaurants and have Don Julio booked 2 days after we arrive. I've done considerable research on restaurants in the Palermo area and would appreciate suggestions. We like all kinds of food but love Italian, grilled meats (beef, sausage, lamb, chicken). and would like to frequent some restaurants that the Porteno's use. We also enjoy wine and beer and any suggestions on nice places near us to stop for a nightcap would be appreciated as well.
4. We still haven't settled on a Tango experience (show/milongas or both) but Salon Canning is near us and I'm thinking of doing that regardless. Any suggestions? We would like to do a boat tour but almost all that I've looked at seem real touristy, have a short tour of the Delta and then a small time shopping (market in Tigre open only on weekends) then a bus or train back to Retiro. Any ideas? We also plan to enjoy the many gardens in Palmero and some of the museums (MALBA, Evita, etc.). I've been reading about the homeless in the parks in other posts. How big of a problem is this? How about walking around Palermo in the evening?

Any help/advice/suggestions you can give us would be appreciated.

Many thanks.

schnauzer

I think you'll need to move this thread. The lounge isn't for such specific travel advice.

suze

Post quickly. The editors have been moving threads out of the Lounge and into different destination forums with the new ownership.

Scarlett

1- I am sorry I don't know the banking answers .. when we visited, we used credit cards a lot and got small amounts from a bank.
When we moved there, we used a bank that is also located in NYC so we were able to have a bank account. but that is for living there, visiting will be somewhat easier.
2-In all the years we lived in BA .. we used Taxis or walked .. we took a train when we went to San Isidro and Tigre .. Radio Taxi is what I recommend.
3-The Colon is so beautiful ..
4- Palermo is good but you have to go to San Telmo too .. my favorite restaurant was an Italian place with tables set by the balcony windows looking over the square .. of course, my mind has gone blank on the name.
I think San Telmo has the most atmosphere as far as being an old Argentine neighborhood .. charming ..
We took the train to Tigre/San Isidro .. boat ride .. beautiful .. on a Sunday so you can see the market they have ..

about the homeless .. early in the morning, they come walking down to the parks and set up a little spot for themselves, one at a time, not a group of them and they sit and sleep all day .. then in the late afternoon, they pack up and walk back to the places the city has for them to sleep in, eat and bathe.
I never found them to be a problem, just so sad to see. But they were taken much better care of than the US homeless that I used to see ..
There are a few Palermo's .. Palermo Botanico is next to Recoleta .. like the Upper Westside NYC
Palermo Soho is where the boutiques and cafes and cobblestone streets and music can be found on weekends ..

We lived close to the MALBA .. you can walk from one to the other .. and don't miss the Decorative Artes Museum .. a quickie visit will do.
It is a home, fully furnished .. so so beautiful and you can get an idea of the wealth and sort of people who lived there so long ago.

the Evita Museum is lovely, her home .. there is a Garden Cafe and all the rooms are furnished as if she still lives there .. and the best music plays ..
You will notice, music is everywhere in BA ..

Remember the bird lady in the movie I think it was Mary Poppins .. that is what our homeless lady in our park was like.
If I gave her scones, she would share them with the pigeons who sat with her ..

Be prepared to be overwhelmed, exhausted and fall in love.

mlgb

I would post this in the South America forum. crellston and avrooster should be able to answer most of the questions. Are you sure the landlord wants pesos and not USD?

I used an ATM for HSBC in Recoleta, which was underground from the Park Hyatt since I felt it was most secure and it was Easter Sunday when we arrived in BA. I did one withdrawal of $109 and I think that was likely the MAX and included the Arg ATM fee. I was able to pay for my lodging with a credit card.

I'm sorry, I did not find any restaurants that I can recommend, in Palermo or elsewhere, but I was only there for 4 days. (I think) which was about 2 days too long for me! I went to MALBA and ate at the restaurant there, which I don't recommend. avrooster commented later that he didn't think it was a good place.

crellston

Hi Mgwest.

1. Using ATMs has always been problematic for us in Argentina so I wouldn’t rely on that option. In 2008 there was a strike which meant that the ATMs weren’t getting refilled. In 2013 we used the "blue dollar" exchange which provided better rates and was more efficient than the main banking system. In 2016 we did try using ATMs but gave up as nothing seemed to work. It may be fine, but I would plan on bring cash USD, which denominations, I am not sure. I would have thought that $100 bills would be fine for your apartment and deposit. We used Oasis for our apartment and they were excellent and we were a able to pay online by CC. Restaurants seemed more receptive to CC payment now than before.

2. We used the Subte a lot on our first trip and it was fine. Buses were good too as long as they go where you want then why not? Taxis were ok too. Although we did get scammed with a driver that took a circuitous route when on our way to meet avrooster (don’t tell him though!)

3. We loved Don Julio, apparently it is a bit touristy but we didn’t find it so. The steak was wonderful and it was my first introduction to Grilled Provlone - where have you been all my life! Nice atmosphere and great service. Fervour was another high end restaurant we went to with avrooster - great steaks but also anpmazing fish. La Choza was just down the road from our apartment and was also excellent - beware! The portions are huge. Apart from the more famous places we found we could eat really well, just by wandering around Palermo and seeing what took our fancy. Lots of "secret" bars are popping up all over BA. We went to one which you had to enter through a greengrocers shop. I doubt I could find it again but it was in te general area of DJ.

4.We did the train out to Tigre and boat etc. It was a pleasant day but I think I would opt for getting the ferry across to Colonia Del Sacramento. A well preserved UNESCO WH Site. Very pretty and quaint.

Dukey1

OK, I am topping and watching this thread and thanking all the folks who have thus far participated. I do this in anticipation of our own pre-cruise visit to BA even though it won't happen for another year. Reading it all makes me wish we were even half as adventurous and well-infomed as the posters here.

mlgb

Hehe, I hope the taxi scam remains hidden from Avrooster. I also got the "circuitous route" but taxis are still incredibly inexpensive.

Do be aware that there is a "monopoly" or "mafia" that controls the taxis from the port and you WILL be ripped off there. I'm sure it will be discussed on Cruise Critic. I think we managed to talk them down $5 from the flat rate of either $20 or $25 for the short trip from the port to the Park Hyatt. It would be something like $5 otherwise.

mgwest

Scarlett - Thank you for the feedback and tips...San Telmo is in our plans as is the Decorative Artes Museum now.

mgwest

mlgb - thank you for your suggestion to post this in the South American forum............I thought I was there and I've tried again but this new process is confusing (I haven't posted for a few years). My post wasn't clear, but yes the landlord wants US $'s.
crellston - the ATM/cash feedback is appreciated and it's nice to hear that credit cards are more widely accepted. The Subte sounds fine but for me the buses are confusing (both pickup points and fare payment). My wife can't wait to try the Grilled Provlone @ DJ's and thanks for the other restaurant and "bar" tips......we like exploring so sounds like fun. Thanks for the suggestion re ferry to Colonia....this was on my radar but not yet decided! And I agree, the train to Tigre then Delta boat trip makes more sense for us. (I would be remiss if I didn't also thank you for all your help in 2011 as well)

Scarlett

I am glad, mgwest .. I have no doubt you will enjoy both ..signed Homesick Scarlett

mlgb

BTW Dukey1 my friend who stayed at Park Hyatt was also able to change USD at the desk in small amounts per day as a guest privelege.

avrooster

Hi, mgwest! I'm still around, but don't post much here anymore. I was starting to answer your post and my reply suddenly vanished. I hate that. So, please e-mail me to albertovgalloAT yahoo.com and I'll be most pleased to provide my input on your doubts.

avrooster

I cannot help wondering what on earth does mlgb mean by "Hehe, I hope the taxi scam remains hidden from Avrooster."????????
I am fully aware of all the possible taxi scams and have repeatedly warned about them, but maybe mlgb knows more than I do????

crellston

Hi Avrooster. I think mlgb was responding to the comment I made in my earlier post i.e.-

"2. We used the Subte a lot on our first trip and it was fine. Buses were good too as long as they go where you want then why not? Taxis were ok too. Although we did get scammed with a driver that took a circuitous route when on our way to meet avrooster (don’t tell him though!)"

Good to see you here again again!

mgwest

Alberto....Thank you, I'll send you an email.

avrooster

Top poster and TA BA DE Marnie said she has some kind of technical problem and asked me to tell you the following:

"I think the poster has gotten good suggestions and responses from Crelleston, etc., and they will be in a great area to explore. I would, likely, have added that while there are more homeless this year...as the are in my town of WDC...they are quiet and keep to themselves. Just sad to see. And I would not count on bank exchanges in the city, ( at EZE, yes) but asking a porteno for a decent Cueva - ubiquitous - will do fine. CC s can be used in supermkts, theaters and many restaurants. Sube card is a good idea....not at rush hour...busses are good too, just be careful and quick getting off. And taxis are fine. When driving with friends, one also seems to be taking a circuitous route...apparently the one-way streets and changing direction at different times of the day make that seem so."

And "not to plan a trip to either Colonia. OR. Tigre until they know the weather forecast does not include serious rain !"

Have a great time in my town.

mgwest

avrooster (aka Marnie) - thank you for the feedback, it does help with my planning. I had been holding off on the boat tour(s) because of the weather concerns and the fact that many are not cancellable and they go regardless of weather. The tours I've booked are not weather dependent and the walking tours are "just show up" so that should work as well. Sounds like I might not need as much US cash as I thought, as many restaurants/grocery stores take CC's. If I buy pesos with a $1,000US at EZE and I find I have too much, I could always pay more in cash the last week or so + duty free at the airport. Assurances re the SUBE card and taxis (radio) is comforting as well.

Thank you again for your assistance.

avrooster

The machine again deleted my post, probably because I took too long. I just wanted to say that Marnie is Marnie and AVRooster is well, yours truly.

mgwest

avrooster - I have a number of questions for you that are rather specific but would be helpful to me, and hopefully others.

1. What times are considered “rush hour” for taking the buses and Subte?
2. On the buses you need to specify your destination to be charged the correct amount on your SUBE card. I assume the same is true for the Subte. How does this work? Do I just have to know my destination station name and enter it somewhere???
3. My wife and I like to walk and explore. Are there any “no go” areas during the daytime? We would walk to Recoleta from near Don Julio’s for example. We might even walk as far as Teatro Colon.
4. In the evening we would likely eat in the Palmero area and walk. OK?
5. I know we need some small bills for taxi’s but what about elsewhere. What is considered small? 5, 10, 20, 50 pesos?
6. I plan to get some 1000, 500, 200 and 100 peso notes as well. These would be used for restaurant bills where cash is required or prudently used instead of a credit card. Tips are cash so I need 100 and 200 peso notes for that too. Any local intelligence you can share with me in this regard?
7. I also plan to bring some US $’s in 5, 10, 20 & 50 dollar denominations. I can use these where it makes sense or to exchange for pesos if needed. Where would it make sense to use US Cash?

Many thanks for your assistance!