Sicily suggestions?
Feb 5th, 2018, 07:24 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sicily suggestions?
We've been lucky enough to travel to Italy many times, but have never been to Sicily. We're thinking of maybe 10 days, in April. Any itinerary suggestions for must-see spots or experiences? We will have a car with us. We're a 60's couple, interested in sight-seeing, great food, small town experiences. As always, thanks for any help.
Feb 5th, 2018, 08:13 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We really enjoyed our loop tour in Western Sicily: Palermo, Trapani, Agrigento, Cefalù, Palermo. We did excursions from each location, such as San Vito Lo Capo (beach), Segesta (Greek temple), Erice (hilltown), Marsala (wine and the salt ponds), Sciacca (16th century city centre), Agrigento (temple complex), Realmonte (Scala dei Turchi), Piazza Armerina (Villa Romana del Casale), Parco delle Madonie (beautiful drive in the countryside), Cefalù (beach time at the end of our trip).
Feb 5th, 2018, 08:15 AM
#3
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,583
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Maria_G, I did a search of threads that mention Palermo that you might want to read for ideas:
https://www.fodors.com/community/sea...earchid=915389
Hopefully that will give you some ideas. We started in Palermo and worked our way east to train/ferry to Sorrento. Others start at the Siracusa side and go west. Depending on your interests, you could even go 2 weeks.
https://www.fodors.com/community/sea...earchid=915389
Hopefully that will give you some ideas. We started in Palermo and worked our way east to train/ferry to Sorrento. Others start at the Siracusa side and go west. Depending on your interests, you could even go 2 weeks.
Feb 5th, 2018, 08:59 AM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,748
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
We've been working on our Sicily trip, which is in April. You sound very much like us as a couple (many trips to Italy, not to Sicily, in our 60s). We have ten nights on the ground in Sicily and the decisions and editing down haven't been easy. I'm not at all sure that we'll be able to return to Sicily in the future, so I did quite a bit of research and made the hard decision to visit both sides of the island. There were things I had to give up (Catania, Taormina Parco delle Madonie) and we eliminated beach stays because it's April and we're not very beachy to begin with. I would have included Selinunte, but couldn't come up with a plan that I was comfortable with. My comfort levels don't include stopping at tourist sites with luggage in the car, making for even more difficult choices.
So here is our plan, which we've worked hard on:
We fly from Rome to Palermo, where we will stay 4 nights. It may seem long, but the first day is a total wash, as we're flying from PIT>CLT>FCO>PMO. Yuck.
We will have a day trip to Cefalu.
We pick up a car on the 5th morning and drive to Erice, where we'll leave our luggage (drop off cleared with apt. owner) and vsiit Segesta. Night in Erice.
On the 6th morning we will drive a longish drive to an agriturismo between Agrigento and Piazza Armerina. We'll drop the luggage again and make a run for the Valley of Temples. The next day we will daytrip to Piazza Armerina.
On the 8th morning we drive to Ortigia and stay 3 nights. I would like a daytrip to a Baroque town, and I'm thinking Noto is easy by train, but would like feedback on this.
Finally, on the 11th morning we will have a driver take us to Catania airport, or even perhaps a bus. Need to research this a bit more, but we're headed to FCO. We'll spend three quick nights in Rome, just because we want to.
Right now I'm weighing three things:
Air from mainland Italy to Sicily and back. Ryanair or Vueling are the choices from and to Rome. I won't chance Alitalia unless someone can swear to me that they will be flying in April.
Daytrip from Ortigia to a Baroque town: which one and which way?
Finally, transport from Ortigia/Siracusa to Catania airport.
This is your thread and I'll post my own questions, but maybe my trip and questions will give you some ideas. I have read several trip reports here that were helpful and think you'll find that, too.
Good luck.
We've been working on our Sicily trip, which is in April. You sound very much like us as a couple (many trips to Italy, not to Sicily, in our 60s). We have ten nights on the ground in Sicily and the decisions and editing down haven't been easy. I'm not at all sure that we'll be able to return to Sicily in the future, so I did quite a bit of research and made the hard decision to visit both sides of the island. There were things I had to give up (Catania, Taormina Parco delle Madonie) and we eliminated beach stays because it's April and we're not very beachy to begin with. I would have included Selinunte, but couldn't come up with a plan that I was comfortable with. My comfort levels don't include stopping at tourist sites with luggage in the car, making for even more difficult choices.
So here is our plan, which we've worked hard on:
We fly from Rome to Palermo, where we will stay 4 nights. It may seem long, but the first day is a total wash, as we're flying from PIT>CLT>FCO>PMO. Yuck.
We will have a day trip to Cefalu.
We pick up a car on the 5th morning and drive to Erice, where we'll leave our luggage (drop off cleared with apt. owner) and vsiit Segesta. Night in Erice.
On the 6th morning we will drive a longish drive to an agriturismo between Agrigento and Piazza Armerina. We'll drop the luggage again and make a run for the Valley of Temples. The next day we will daytrip to Piazza Armerina.
On the 8th morning we drive to Ortigia and stay 3 nights. I would like a daytrip to a Baroque town, and I'm thinking Noto is easy by train, but would like feedback on this.
Finally, on the 11th morning we will have a driver take us to Catania airport, or even perhaps a bus. Need to research this a bit more, but we're headed to FCO. We'll spend three quick nights in Rome, just because we want to.
Right now I'm weighing three things:
Air from mainland Italy to Sicily and back. Ryanair or Vueling are the choices from and to Rome. I won't chance Alitalia unless someone can swear to me that they will be flying in April.
Daytrip from Ortigia to a Baroque town: which one and which way?
Finally, transport from Ortigia/Siracusa to Catania airport.
This is your thread and I'll post my own questions, but maybe my trip and questions will give you some ideas. I have read several trip reports here that were helpful and think you'll find that, too.
Good luck.
Last edited by tuscanlifeedit; Feb 5th, 2018 at 09:09 AM. Reason: error
Feb 5th, 2018, 04:28 PM
#5
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sicily is delightful, but holds such a wealth of treasures that 10 days will only give you time to see about half the island. It depends on what you want to see and experience, but IME, most people with 10 days opt for either the east or the west of the island, and only you can decide which to do.
FWIW, I found the Rough Guide particularly informative for Sicily.
FWIW, I found the Rough Guide particularly informative for Sicily.
Feb 6th, 2018, 07:36 AM
#8
The trains are ok but slow, the buses are on time and efficient. Dead right to think about the island as being in two section east and west with the lower half being relatively slow in transit.
Rough guide is the best book for the area.
Using cars on the motorways, the junctions come up very fast and often very sharp often on bends so keep an eye out for them. The motorways also have "autogrills" in them which a chain, if yoiu get hungry and the usual meal times are out of kilter, not a bad place to eat.
I'd aim at Ortiga, Siracusa temple area and Noto as musts in the south, with Modica and Ragusa as suitable if you have time. Agrigento is not to be missed but also look at the modern city not bad if a bit victorian. If you drove, leave the car at the west most car park and take a taxi to the east most start, then the walk is all down hill (it will be hot and tiring) The centre of the mountain in the middle (just off the motorway) Enna castle and a bit further south the roman villa are vital. The the two Norman palaces in Palermo and Monreale are great, you can catch a bus between the two.
In Palermo a car is a pain, so if you used a bus to the centre, leave the bus at the station walk past the train station and hang a left outside the station front door, there is a beaten up cabin there which will give you a local bus map, point out the free bus (if still running, changes each year) or buy a 24 hour ticket which gives you free run of the bus system all over. NB getting a 24 hour ticket needs you to go to official bus ticket offices not tabacs so if you are going to use them, buy them on arrival and the 24 hours starts once you compost them the first time. if you want just the hour ticket you can buy all over.
Rough guide is the best book for the area.
Using cars on the motorways, the junctions come up very fast and often very sharp often on bends so keep an eye out for them. The motorways also have "autogrills" in them which a chain, if yoiu get hungry and the usual meal times are out of kilter, not a bad place to eat.
I'd aim at Ortiga, Siracusa temple area and Noto as musts in the south, with Modica and Ragusa as suitable if you have time. Agrigento is not to be missed but also look at the modern city not bad if a bit victorian. If you drove, leave the car at the west most car park and take a taxi to the east most start, then the walk is all down hill (it will be hot and tiring) The centre of the mountain in the middle (just off the motorway) Enna castle and a bit further south the roman villa are vital. The the two Norman palaces in Palermo and Monreale are great, you can catch a bus between the two.
In Palermo a car is a pain, so if you used a bus to the centre, leave the bus at the station walk past the train station and hang a left outside the station front door, there is a beaten up cabin there which will give you a local bus map, point out the free bus (if still running, changes each year) or buy a 24 hour ticket which gives you free run of the bus system all over. NB getting a 24 hour ticket needs you to go to official bus ticket offices not tabacs so if you are going to use them, buy them on arrival and the 24 hours starts once you compost them the first time. if you want just the hour ticket you can buy all over.
Feb 6th, 2018, 05:15 PM
#9
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are both busses and trains from Ortygia to Noto, and I believe there are also daily tours. It's really very easy, and Noto is, IMO, charming.
Feb 7th, 2018, 01:56 PM
#10
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We spent two weeks in Sicily last April and loved it. The wild flowers were in full bloom and the weather was close to perfect, with lots of sun without lots of heat. We started out in Palermo, which we liked a lot. The neighborhood we stayed in, near the Teatro Massimo, was vibrant and colorful and very walkable, with great people watching. We went from the big city to a very small town, Scopello, on the Golfo di Castellammare, a beautiful area near the Zingaro Natural Reserve. While there we visited the hill town of Erica and the temple and amphitheater at Segesta. I have to say Segesta was one of our favorite sites in Sicily. The temple stands in lonely splendor on a hilltop surrounded by flowers. Lovely. After our stay at Scopello, we spent a few days making our way to Siracusa, stopping at Selinunte, the Valley of the Temples, and the Villa Romana del Casale, all interesting and worthwhile. We next stayed in Ortigia, the island attached to Siracusa. Ortigia ranks high on our list of favorites. The island has the feel of a small town, with an amazing piazza and a great daily street market. We loved our time there. After Ortigia, we traveled to Taormina for one night. It is a gorgeous place but really crowded on the holiday weekend we happened to be there.
Like you, we had to make tough decisions about what to include in our itinerary. It isn't easy to cross sites and attractions off the list. But Sicily is such a special place to visit I have no doubt you will enjoy whatever itinerary you decide on. Have a great trip!
Like you, we had to make tough decisions about what to include in our itinerary. It isn't easy to cross sites and attractions off the list. But Sicily is such a special place to visit I have no doubt you will enjoy whatever itinerary you decide on. Have a great trip!
Feb 7th, 2018, 03:02 PM
#11
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Few ever mention ascending Mt Etna but it's an awesome sight. Two places to scsend - one not far from Taormina the area near Catania - the more popular one where you drive or bus eto base camp area and then take cable cars partway up and then walk or four-wheel vehicles to top.
Feb 8th, 2018, 11:49 AM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,748
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Such great tips; thanks to everyone; I hope the OP will come back and let us know how her plans are shaping up.
Candace, I do hope our April trip has the same type of weather that you experienced; I'm hoping for wildflowers.
Pumpkinsteph, Monreale is at the top of our list for Palermo.
Candace, I do hope our April trip has the same type of weather that you experienced; I'm hoping for wildflowers.
Pumpkinsteph, Monreale is at the top of our list for Palermo.
Feb 9th, 2018, 07:34 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks to all for the info, and after more research, I agree we can't do it all. We will have 11 nights total, and very much dislike having to pack up & move every couple days. Sacrifices must be made, and we've decided to just lop off the entire Palermo area. Any thoughts you have on our revised itinerary would be appreciated:
We fly into Catania, pick up a car, and hope to stay around Syracuse/Noto for 3 or 4 nights. Then west to Agrigento for another 3 or 4 nights. Then south along the cost, maybe Marina di Ragusa for the last 3 or 4 nights, before flying out of Comiso. Any thoughts?
We fly into Catania, pick up a car, and hope to stay around Syracuse/Noto for 3 or 4 nights. Then west to Agrigento for another 3 or 4 nights. Then south along the cost, maybe Marina di Ragusa for the last 3 or 4 nights, before flying out of Comiso. Any thoughts?
Feb 9th, 2018, 04:48 PM
#15
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As you are discovering, Sicily does not lend itself easily to base cities. 
If there is any chance that you will have jet lag, I would strongly encourage you to take public transportation for your first night or two. Although many people are not aware of it, there is mounting evidence that driving with jet lag is just as dangerous -- to yourself and others -- as driving drunk, and nothing you can do will prevent the microsleeps (which you might not even notice) that are the apparent culprit. Seriously -- NOT a good idea, no matter your other constraints and no matter your prior experience! And please be patient with me if you think I’m being overly adamant, but I know too many people who have died or been seriously injured in accidents to which jet lag was a contributing factor, and I know too many people who will spend the rest of their lives dealing with the knowledge that they were responsible for accidents that resulted in multiple deaths, including those of children, all because they were too confident in their ability to drive safely with jet lag. The issue has become a bit of a cause célèbre for me….
The good news: No need to rent a car upon arrival! You can take comfortable and convenient public transportation from Catania’s airport to Siracusa, where a car is likely to be an encumbrance in any case. Then, when you are ready to leave Siracusa, pick up a rental car.
Siracusa is a delight, particularly Ortygia, and you can easily reach Noto by public transportation from there.
While it depends on what you want to see and experience, I think many of us would find 3 or 4 nithgst in Agrigento a bit much.
If you are in that part of Sicily, do consider finding a way to visit the stunning Villa Romana del Casale.
Hope that helps!
If there is any chance that you will have jet lag, I would strongly encourage you to take public transportation for your first night or two. Although many people are not aware of it, there is mounting evidence that driving with jet lag is just as dangerous -- to yourself and others -- as driving drunk, and nothing you can do will prevent the microsleeps (which you might not even notice) that are the apparent culprit. Seriously -- NOT a good idea, no matter your other constraints and no matter your prior experience! And please be patient with me if you think I’m being overly adamant, but I know too many people who have died or been seriously injured in accidents to which jet lag was a contributing factor, and I know too many people who will spend the rest of their lives dealing with the knowledge that they were responsible for accidents that resulted in multiple deaths, including those of children, all because they were too confident in their ability to drive safely with jet lag. The issue has become a bit of a cause célèbre for me….
The good news: No need to rent a car upon arrival! You can take comfortable and convenient public transportation from Catania’s airport to Siracusa, where a car is likely to be an encumbrance in any case. Then, when you are ready to leave Siracusa, pick up a rental car.
Siracusa is a delight, particularly Ortygia, and you can easily reach Noto by public transportation from there.
While it depends on what you want to see and experience, I think many of us would find 3 or 4 nithgst in Agrigento a bit much.
If you are in that part of Sicily, do consider finding a way to visit the stunning Villa Romana del Casale.
Hope that helps!
Feb 9th, 2018, 05:03 PM
#16
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 4,943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wasn't a big fan of Palermo or Catania.
There is cheap bus service so from Catania airport, you can get to Taormina pretty easily. I'm sure there are similar links to Siracusa.
If you do rent a car, it would obviously make more sense not to do so while you're staying in the big cities, where you have to deal with traffic and figure out parking.
My first visit, I rented a car out of PMO and drove down to Castellamare del Golfo, about 30-45 minutes away. I think it takes about the same amount of time to go by public transport into Palermo. I am not endorsing driving after an intercontinental flight but I've done it a couple of times. But there is surely bus service out of PMO to cities along the west coast, or so I would assume.
I agree with others that you'd probably want to focus on half the island with only 10 days. Probably look into what you're interested in the most. The western half has big antiquities sites, though Agrigento is kind of in the middle. The SE with Ortigia, Noto and Ragusa have beautifully restored Baroque cathedrals. Love the way they look with the bright Mediterranean sun. Erice and Taormina and beautiful views of the coasts from high vantage points.
There is cheap bus service so from Catania airport, you can get to Taormina pretty easily. I'm sure there are similar links to Siracusa.
If you do rent a car, it would obviously make more sense not to do so while you're staying in the big cities, where you have to deal with traffic and figure out parking.
My first visit, I rented a car out of PMO and drove down to Castellamare del Golfo, about 30-45 minutes away. I think it takes about the same amount of time to go by public transport into Palermo. I am not endorsing driving after an intercontinental flight but I've done it a couple of times. But there is surely bus service out of PMO to cities along the west coast, or so I would assume.
I agree with others that you'd probably want to focus on half the island with only 10 days. Probably look into what you're interested in the most. The western half has big antiquities sites, though Agrigento is kind of in the middle. The SE with Ortigia, Noto and Ragusa have beautifully restored Baroque cathedrals. Love the way they look with the bright Mediterranean sun. Erice and Taormina and beautiful views of the coasts from high vantage points.
Feb 10th, 2018, 04:47 PM
#19
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We were just there at Christmas for 10 nights. Our itinerary:
1 nt Catania
1 night Agrigento (1 night was plenty)
1 night Scicli (everything about it was delightful and so friendly, we loved this town)
4 nights in Modica
2 nights in Ortygia
1 night Catania
Quick overview: Though it meant extra driving we were glad we went to Agrigento. We had an amazing meal in Agrigento (Sal8 Ristorante, have the swordfish w/ pistachio crust) and then a lovely visit through the ruins the next day. We added Scicli at the last minute and that place was a favorite. We stayed at B&B Scicli and had good food everywhere. We really enjoyed Modica. We visited Ragusa, saw the flamingos in the park on the coast and went to the nearby fishing village of Marzamemi - loved it. Ortygia was fun, more touristed but we enjoyed it. We didn't need that last day in Catania, and would've happily spent another night in Scicli.
1 nt Catania
1 night Agrigento (1 night was plenty)
1 night Scicli (everything about it was delightful and so friendly, we loved this town)
4 nights in Modica
2 nights in Ortygia
1 night Catania
Quick overview: Though it meant extra driving we were glad we went to Agrigento. We had an amazing meal in Agrigento (Sal8 Ristorante, have the swordfish w/ pistachio crust) and then a lovely visit through the ruins the next day. We added Scicli at the last minute and that place was a favorite. We stayed at B&B Scicli and had good food everywhere. We really enjoyed Modica. We visited Ragusa, saw the flamingos in the park on the coast and went to the nearby fishing village of Marzamemi - loved it. Ortygia was fun, more touristed but we enjoyed it. We didn't need that last day in Catania, and would've happily spent another night in Scicli.
Feb 11th, 2018, 08:39 AM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trains are cheap and though slow frequent enough - I spend two weeks using trains and buses in Sicily - for train info check Acquista il biglietto con le nostre offerte - Trenitalia - www.seat61.com; where to go by train BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. All are regional trains no need to pre-purchase and no reason to do so - dirt cheap. But all in all cars are better and much more efficient at getting around Sicily than trains.
