Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Asia
Reload this Page >

Winning Valentine's Day -- and the entire month, for that matter, in INDIA

Search

Winning Valentine's Day -- and the entire month, for that matter, in INDIA

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 13th, 2014, 02:13 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Winning Valentine's Day -- and the entire month, for that matter, in INDIA

I will start with Thank You's to this forum which led me to Legends & Palaces and VP Singh. A friend of our visited India last year (2013) on a Roads Scholar Tour, and showed us his pictures. Suddenly India was number one on our bucket list, and after pumping Stan about what he liked best and least, and knowing I could get a better value by going with a "local" TA, I found Mr. Singh and crafted our own itinerary. We had 23 days in India, very long back to back flights from the US (Delta from RDU to ATL to AMS then KLM to Delhi; and home from Mumbai via AMS and DET to RDU). I was able to upgrade to Economy Plus on 3 of the 4 flights (not on that first AMS to Delhi, but we survived.)

Our trip exceeded every expectation we had and then some. I will break the report into manageable sections to make it easier to read, and to answer any possible questions. I kept a journal, so excuse me if my editing misses some verb tense changes. Let's start with Delhi:

Delhi (3nts -- really 2 1/2 as we got there at 3:30am, KLM having made everyone wait an extra 2 hours for luggage as the baggage hold was frozen shut) Baggage claim was not a cheerful place. But once we retrieved our two carry-ons (which had been checked) and our big bag, we quickly found the sign with our name on it and the Delhi rep for Legends & Palaces. Traffic was NOT an issue

Our hotel was The Claridges Hotel....terrific place. Luxurious, welcoming, great bed and linens and bath. Quite a few steps above our usual and this was a blessing that made the long wait for bags easy to forget. We fell fast asleep fairly quickly for about four hours.

First day, after breakfast, we met our guide Ravi for a day tour of Delhi. High points for us were Old Delhi street life (we got to ride in a bicycle rickshaw) and the parks around the sites like Humayan's tomb and Qutub Minar which is built out of ruined Hindu temples. The faces of gods have been demolished or scraped away. Really an interesting site and a nice introduction to the spiritual and cultural mix that has always been "India."

While there are vehicles of all description, and stray dogs everywhere, most of the other animals we have seen have been pulling carts...horses and water buffalo and camels. I even saw someone walking a pretty goat wearing a denim jacket, on a leash. Our driver impresses us with his skill and awareness.

Dinner at the Mediterranean restaurant in hotel was OK. Starters were better than mains. We couldn't get a reservation at the Indian restaurant Dhaba, so we made one for the next night. I really think we were in sort of a trance that first day...open to everything and yet still a bit lost.

Day 2: After breakfast we walked to Lodi Gardens because it was such a beautiful day. The neighborhood is very lovely, the park was delightful. We enjoyed seeing the kids playing in the park, flocks of green parrots, chipmunks and ever present dogs, just peacefully hanging out and minding their own business.

Our driver Sunil took us to Rashmi & Hamier Marwahs' home in Klas Haus for cookery class. What a treat! She and her husband greeted us and fed us traditional snacks and fresh made spring rolls and samosas. Better than any we have ever had. Then she described what we would be doing in the kitchen. We made rice with peas and carrots, and spiced potatoes and best of all, perfect paratha breads. Then we sat down to eat lunch, which was wonderful, and included grilled aubergines and a chicken curry. This was the best meal we ate in Delhi. Rashmi and her husband were so welcoming and good company. Now it feels as if we have real friends in Delhi.

After lunch, Sunil takes us to the National Railway Museum, which is kind of neat, but clearly is in need of a sponsor. Beautiful old locomotives and cars that are mostly just rusting away in the park. There was a nice exhibit hall, being worked on, and the best thing was the presentation of a 1909 complaint letter. Still, the only other visitors were Indian families and a school field trip, and admission was only 20rupees each.

We had a very good dinner that night at Dhaba in the hotel. The waiter took us back in the kitchen to see the preparations, all the big pots of entrees, the tandoori oven, etc. very very cool. With dessert, we were also served our first Masala Tea. Oh my. A habit is born. We went walking around the grounds outside after dinner, saw the full moon. This is possibly the nicest hotel we've ever stayed in. I loved the neighborhood, and it was a good transition from our Western life to the East.

One thing you have to get used to is the "hovering" service of the waiters. I'd read about it in trip reports here, and we experienced it as well. There is also a turn down service that comes about 9pm to stash away all the decorative pillows and throws and leave behind the special tea service with little cakes. Tons of service.

We'll have to pack up tonight as Sunil will drive us to Agra tomorrow, where we will be staying at the Taj Gateway.

Agra (2n). Taj Gateway

Rainy day...good for a drive. It was hard to sleep last night, both of us kept waking up, we are driving on a new super highway which goes through a new city Nodia. Then through huge privately developed area, Jaypee Green. Many apartment buildings, a formula one stadium, and a cricket stadium in the center of something called Sports city. Jaypee is a big group that owns hotels, cement company, construction, etc. I wonder how much land this group owns! What an interesting business plan.

The sun is shining when we arrive, have lunch and get situated. There is a sweet welcoming ceremony with hot moist towels and we are given our first "bindi" of the trip. Here is a question I've now got: How long should one keep that little red (or yellow) dot? I kept mine throughout lunch, but should I have kept it the rest of the day?

Our guide for Agra, Ali, is very precise. He is knowledgeable and as we get to know him, has a very kind and easy humor. Both he and our "welcoming rep" recommend a terrific restaurant, which I recognized from TA and Fodors, A Pinch of Spice. (We ended up eating there twice...it was delicious.)

The hotel is nice. Not as elegant as Claridges, but comfortable, with gorgeous grounds. We get a view of the Taj, slightly obstructed. It was supposed to be a garden view, and that, in after thought, would have been quieter. That afternoon, Ali takes us to see the Red Fort and the gardens across the river from the Taj, which gives us our first view, with photos which I can post on Facebook claiming "We won Valentines's Day!" Then we go back to the hotel to clean up and Sunil picks us up to go to dinner (and first, find an ATM). We probably could have braved the traffic and walked, but when after dinner it is obvious there has been a downpour, we are happy not to have to trudge through mud and puddles.

While the original plan was to see the Taj at dawn, Ali changes our schedule to leave to 8:30, and it is a great decision. There was a lot of rain overnight. While misty when we get there, by the time we reach the steps of the Taj, the sun has broken through and we get blue skies so we can take some better shots..the ones you dream about taking if you ever get there!

Agra is where we see the roaming monkeys, cows, water buffalo, goats, sheep, stray dogs, and general filth of over-population. High points of Agra are of course, the Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri, and the Red Fort. Steve even liked FP more than the Taj. We visited the guide "commercial opportunity" stop at the marble inlay place after visiting the Taj. Not really our style, it was easy to say how lovely, but not for us. We had met a young couple from Texas at the restaurant the night before and were forewarned that this stop was probably a necessity of visiting the Taj.

Sunil our driver is amazing. There is no way the typical Western tourist could make sense of this traffic. The horns honk constantly, even out in the countryside. And every possible kind of conveyance is on the road. Lanes are only a vague concept in traffic like this. Clearly, honking is a part of driving. You must let someone know you want to pass, you are passing, or you need them to wait to cross the street.

Our final meal in Agra is in the hotel's fancier restaurant (although prices appear to be the same as in the other, just a few different choices) and we have our first Thalis. What a lovely way to savor Indian cuisine. We are pretty much drinking Kingfisher lager, which we've long enjoyed at Indian restaurants in the states. Plus Rashmi had introduced us to a pleasant Indian soda: Limeca We really don't drink many sodas back home, but this was refreshing when we tired of bottled water!

I've put some of our 4000 photos up on Shutterfly, and will be adding more as I slash the number down to a more manageable lot -- and take out all the unflattering pictures of myself (!) They can be seen here: https://dianesteveinindia2014.shutterfly.com/
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 13th, 2014, 03:02 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great beginning! I'm looking forward to more.
Kathie is offline  
Old Mar 13th, 2014, 06:38 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Welcome back, busted!! Really enjoying your report so far - noting already some things we didn't see - eg. Jaypee Green - saw his cement ad on every drive through India and started to write his bio in my head. Imagined him as a very wealthy man indeed. And the Natl Railway Museum - missed that - if I even knew there was one. Ah yes, the "hovering" service .. . . a little of that goes a long way. I know the intent is good.

I'm off to look at those pics now! 4000 is about what we logged too. Culled em down to about 300 some last weekend for sake of maintaining friends. India is really a photographers dream, isn't it. Enough to make me want to improve my skills. . .
glover is offline  
Old Mar 13th, 2014, 06:55 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey Busted,

Fantastic start, I'll be following along.
Keep up the good work.

We also got dragged into an inlay workshop.
No pressure to buy, which was great, and interesting to see the process, me being a mosaic tragic !

Cheers
Caroline
sartoric is offline  
Old Mar 14th, 2014, 11:12 AM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh -- I'm not loading all 4K up on Shutterfly! That culling process is helpful before I can do anything else with them.

Here is the next installment, and a link to a video


Trian to
Sawai Madhopour

Mr Singh reserved our 2nd class tickets months ago. We heard people buying tickets on standby were unable to get seats together. This train runs all the way from Punjab to Mumbai. As a result when we board, all the seats are pulled down like beds. Took me about 10 minutes to realize they can be flipped up to form sort of a sofa. The seating still isn't exactly comfy, but now my feet touch the floor and the scenery is delightful without the roadside clutter. The rape fields are in bloom and the sun is out. We have 5 stops to Madhpour.

The train was also over an hour late! Our handler at Bharatpur told us someone would tell us when it was time to get off. He was a 20-year old who works for L&P and is studying to be a naturalist specializing in birds. We also met his friend, who got him into the birding gig, whose father is "an internationally known" expert. I had read a trip report on Fodor's (Glovers) about birding in Bharatpur, so I knew there was a big national preserve. We really enjoyed talking to those young men. You can get a much better feeling for a country when you get the chance to talk about more than your lodgings or meals, or even the fantastic sights you visit.

Back to the train ride, It was easy to identify our stop, and there was someone with a sign for us from Khem Villas, who took us to the gypsy jeep people to hand over our voucher and then on to check in at Khem VIllas.

(2n). Ranthambore Tiger Reserve
Khem Villas
Luxury Tent

OMG. Khem Villas is awesome, I was concerned that the tent would be too cold....it is gorgeous and cosy. There's a heater. They give you hot water bottles. The mattress is great, the pillows are perfect. It is quiet but for some dogs barking in the distance..but this is much less than the honking horns and wedding processions in Agra.

After the hot-wet-towel welcome and fresh-squeezed juice, overview of the property, and a chance to freshen up in our tent, they gave us boxed lunches (which we never really had time to eat) and packed us off on safari. High point is that although we were squished 6 into a 4 person vehicle (well, that is my take, but it was indeed considered a 6-person vehicle), WE saw a tiger. A giant male, who posed appropriately. Actually there were two, but one was more obscured by brush and when the first guy got up to saunter off, about 15 feet further up the hill we saw the second also move on out. They are said to be brothers, about 2 years old. When they got up and walked away, it took our breath away because they are SO huge.

Our bags were in our tent when we got back.

That night, drinks around the fire were wonderful, and the other guests are interesting and friendly. We enjoyed talking with a couple from France who recently moved to Delhi after eight years in the US, with their two very well-behaved children. They hadn't been lucky enough to see a tiger, so I showed the little boy and girl (about 8 & 10) and they were thrilled to learn that at least SOMEONE had seen a tiger. The food...organic/vegetarian...is superb. We ended the an excellent dinner with a coconut concoction to die for and masala tea for dessert. Both of us were more than ready to crash, and boy did we sleep!

Second day, early AM drive, still traveling 6 to a vehicle. Not comfy, but John and Jane from the UK are with us again, and they are good company. They are staying at the fancy Oberois Villas, which we passed on the way from the station. They are more in town, and apparently a bit close to the train. We are in the country, surrounded by acres of organic farm that provides the fruit and veggies we eat. I think we chose right. Back to the safari drive....not much luck. We did route 2 (yesterday was 5) and saw prints for both tiger and leopard, but no animals other than deer and peacocks. I did get some good terrain shots. The park is gorgeous. Back for breakfast. We put in some laundry, and the temperature was headed up with a light breeze just making it perfect. I left Steve sitting outside in the sun in front of our tent, overlooking beautiful fields, and took myself to the spa for a massage. Very nice, and a good way to spend the afternoon before our last safari drive.

Sorry, no tigers on last drive, despite a very sincere and try anything guide! His English was best of the three we had, but while I am usually pretty good with accents, sometimes it still was a mystery. Of course when punctuated by an accelerating engine and sudden starts and stops, even the most careful listener might have problems. At one point, toward the end of the drive he told us something, and the lady next to me asked me" what did he say?" I had to giggle and tell her, "I'm afraid what I heard was: "and over here we have a lamb we call iceberg." She said "that's what I heard too" and we laughed.

So nice to see our driver, Sunil, again, to drive us on to Jaipur the next morning.

Here is a link to a short video I made of the tiger "hunt." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swYFm...ature=youtu.be
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 15th, 2014, 08:44 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great video busted! Really nice pics of the tiger! That
white throated kingfisher is a beauty isn't it? Enjoyed seeing the train station too!! That was the station where several guys stared at us as if we had 3 heads. Your safari pic is the first I've seen monkey brave enough to jump in jeep with people still in it!!

Laughed out loud at "over here we have a lamb we call iceberg." I teach ESL so spend a lot of time listening to variously accented English - and, like you, think I'm pretty good with accents as well. But after the first morning out with our guide at Corbett, I told him I thought I might be losing my hearing. This was very effective because after that - when he saw something, he'd mention it quickly in a regular tone - he'd turn to me and yell, for example: WHITE THROATED KINGFISHER!! Very funny.
glover is offline  
Old Mar 17th, 2014, 06:05 AM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ha! Yep. Is it just men who seem to think louder means easier to understand?

Link to Jaipur...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Z0DY...ature=youtu.be


Jaipur (2n)
Shahpura House. Royal suite

Checking in we are greeted by Eric, who looks a bit like an old Detroit motown promoter. We need to wait for our room, so we are seated poolside and I order fish and chips just for the heck of it. It is GORGEOUS out here. When we get to our room, it is a suite...and really quite sumptuous. Stained glass windows, marble bath, king size bed, heavy dark mahoghany(?) furniture. Nice sitting room. These heritage Havelis are truly the "way to go" in India.

Our first afternoon, we visited Jantar Mantar, and talked with our guide, David, in length about how important astrological issues are in the Hindu religion. It made the visit more than just a giant photo opportunity. Then we saw the City Palace, including a costume display I loved (but couldn't take photos of).

Ok. We spent a lot of money on our second day in Jaipur. I picked up some children's costumes for our daughter's school (she teaches ESL at Holt Elementary in Durham PS system), a bunch of bangles and three "pashminas", an umbrella and a sari in turquoise, purple and pink. We also stopped on the way in to town and got a table cloth and napkins for our porch, and two pillow covers for Holly, and 4 silk scarves. Finally we let our guide David talk us into visiting the gemstone cutting and setting place and bought a pendant for me of citrine, diamonds and gold. We considered a huge beautifully set ruby, but I couldn't justify having enough places to wear it at this point in my life,. My pendant was bargained down to $850 which seemed fair. The other would have been $3400 ( down from 4200) but while that might be a good price.....I don't think it would work for me. We just don't go those kinda places now that we've retired! I also have to say, that watching someone set tiny diamonds into a large Art Deco broach was fascinating.

Steve went to a book store, Crossword, and got some books. He ALWAYS buys books, why should a vacation be different?

The better part of the day was the visit to Amer Palace on an elephant. What fun! And the palace is spectacular. David took tons of pictures of us, and we paid a tout $1US for 3 pics of us on the elephant. (I mean, how often are you really going to ride an elephant?) It was a warm day, finally! We had a great time.

Back to the hotel to chill out.

Who knew...the best meal and show in town turned out to be at our hotel's rooftop restaurant. We split a tandoori kebab chicken thing for starters and I had some succulent butter chicken as a main, Steve had an entirely different chicken dish that was also good. Also started with a double shot of dark rum before we split our Kingfisher with our dinner.

I wish we stayed at least one more night in Jaipur. It would have been fun. This is a cleaner city and very interesting. The wedding processions we caught a glimpse of here were much fancier, and the grooms rode white horses. The neighborhood around our hotel was quite lovely, and I do like seeing where people live. One of the books Steve picked up in Jaipur was written by a British expat, and probably had some good restaurant recommendations we could have followed. we went to "Indiana" the first night (well, I am also a Purdue grad) and were rather disappointed. Nice floor show, but very mediocre Indian food.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 17th, 2014, 08:48 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Busted . . like your next video as well. I also felt like we didn't give Jaipur its due. That Amber Palace is spectacular isn't it? Did you resist buying any of those colorful fabric shoes pictured in your video? I couldn't resist them - especially when I was able to buy some for $5. Haven't bought a pair of totally "flat" shoes in probably 2 decades - and for good reason - so probably can only wear these shoes while sitting down .. .

We also liked our hotel restaurant so much that we never managed to get elsewhere - I too had thought of the Indiana Restaurant because Mr. G is an Indiana grad. . . doesn't sound like we missed too much . .
glover is offline  
Old Mar 17th, 2014, 09:51 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Busted--thank you!! loving this report!!!! Gotta get back there--so manny parts of Rajasthan still to see! Glad you enjoyed India. Makes me feel less crazy for loving her too!
CaliNurse is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2014, 08:49 AM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nimaj (1n). (Actually, not Nimaj, but a village named Hari Pur, which appeared to have it's own train station) This was a one night stop between Jaipur and Jodphur.
Laxman (or Lakshman) Sagar, Cottage

Hands down among the VERY best food we had in India, and it was included in the night's booking. We were served a vegetarian lunch that could make me switch for life....but then insane starters of cauliflower and chicken, plus wonderful mutton at dinner. Mmmmmmmmm. We even opted to purchase a bottle of wine with dinner. (Well, maybe that was not the best idea. We should have stuck with Kingfisher).

Overall, the best description of this place is Serenity. What a good break from touring the sites and bustling noisy cities. Looking over the lake at night from the patio, listening to the frogs and insects and seeing the stars. Yikes. I felt mystically centered. The cottage is phenominal. Totally built of stone. Bed, linens, everything was super luxurious. This place was once a prince's hunting lodge. Truly absolute silence except for nature. There are 9 cottages, some with their own pools. Not sure that they are needed, except maybe when it is really hot, but they do close down for the hottest months of the year. No wifi, but so what! The birds and wildlife were abundant. It would be a marvelous place for hiking. You can fish right from the shore. And at night, when all the paths are lit with handing lanterns...wow. Pure Romance.

Next stop:
Jodhpur (2n)
Rass Hotel, Lux room Fort view

Terrific grounds for this luxury hotel right in the old city, an easy stroll from the Clock Tower Market. Wonderful breakfast, nice roof top bar for drinks. Our room had a full bath with dual sinks, a walk-in shower, and a really great bath tub. And we have a spectacular view of the fort from our room (and the terrace off the bedroom) The special rooftop restaurant was booked for a function the first night, so we booked for the next night. We met up with our guide and had a "heritage" walk through the markets and learned the "lay of the land" (although we had already checked out some of the market before, needing to pickup some AA batteries for my camera and stopping in at Baba Art Emporium and then buying some spices from our recipe list at a nearby spice place.) Our guide had recommended Pali Haveli for dinner, so that is where we struck out for, checking menus at a couple other spots along the way. But we stuck with Pali Haveli and it which turned out to be very good and half the price of the hotel's restaurant.

The next day turned out to be a stunning touring day. We started at the Royal Crematorium, which was rather etherial in the morning sunshine. Mehrangarh Fort is fantastic, with much restoration work done so you really can see the opulence. There was an international Sufi festival in full swing, and the built-in sound track made touring the palace areas even more exotic. There are excellently priced souvenirs at the gift shop (of which we happily purchased, knowing that a portion of the proceeds go towards preservation of the fort.) It was also provided a good cost reference so that we could properly bargain later that afternoon at Baba's.

Outside the old city, we had lunch at "On the Rocks" and shopped at Anohki, in the same shopping strip as restaurant. Well-priced soft cotton clothes and interior design stuff I had read about in on-line trip reports, and definitely worth purchasing to extend your hot-weather wardrobe. We were supposed to visit the in-home shop of a local block printer, but that did not seem to work out. We did meet a lovely lady who did wholesale tie-dye work. I took her business card in case one day my Savoyards troup in Durham NC needs vast quantities of tie-dyed fabric. But it was cool to see residential a real neighborhood. Back to the hotel and then off to Baba Art dealers, famous from the NY Times and trip advisor. I will give him a good review. Steve bargained him down from his "government regulated" prices, and we paid 3000rupies to ship our purchases home. I can report that everything arrived in wonderful shape (well, it was all textile goods) and looks even more beautiful in person. My (adult) children like the gifts we got them!

Jodphur was stunning. We enjoyed it tremendously. The Raas was spectacular. The only draw-back was the one evening broadcast "sermon" from the next-door mosque. While I actually thought the call to prayer was beautiful, this particular fellow went on and on for about an hour in a very excited voice that was kind of disturbing to the Western tourists on the roof-top bar that evening. We asked the waiter what he was saying, and all he would tell us was "Praising God." And for all I know, that may well have been true. We never really felt intimidated by anything but our inability to understand the language. There is no way you can travel in India and not recognize the importance of spirituality and religion (no matter which) in daily life.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2014, 08:55 AM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
just re-read -- how come some things never pop out when you read the preview, but hit you square between the eyes once posted. Please excuse it which, was also provided...yikes.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2014, 01:34 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just catching up again with your report. I'm loving it. Those heritage properties are wonderful. We stayed in places that were formerly royal guesthouses while we were in Sikkim. I felt that really added to the trip.

I'm noting the places you wished you'd spent more time.
Kathie is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2014, 03:12 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoying your report Busted, so many ideas for a next time in India, thank you.

Did you know that your second video was unavailable to mobile devices ?
I had to see it, especially after Glovers comment about those colourful shoes, so I pulled out trusty old lap top.

Funny, I'm sitting here in those very shoes ! Well okay, not exactly those shoes, but you know what I mean.

Looking forward to the next bit !
sartoric is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2014, 07:05 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I haven't been able to figure out how to change that "not available to mobile devices" ...haven't had that problem before this. Glad you are enjoying the report. Writing it and going through my pics (I do update Shutterfly) is such a help and a lot of fun.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2014, 04:19 PM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Chanoudgarh (1nt)

OK --- one of the places that really we could happily have stayed another night.
This place is out of this world. It is a true palace that is over 300 years old, in the same family for 13 generations. Two brothers have renovated it over 6 years and opened as a guest house, with 6 or 7 rooms, about 2 years ago. It is in a tiny town, that the family has clearly helped for years, bringing electricity and other improvements. The marketing plan is directed at Europeans, Americans, and Australians who travel independently.

It was an adventure getting here, with several phone calls after we passed through the 3 small villages, with farm fields in between. There were two other couples, both from the UK. Lunch was fresh and homestyle delicious. Our room is a suite, with AC if needed, and fireplaces also if needed. There is a screened door opening on to the walkway overlooking the courtyard, and another at the back open to a large terrace overlooking the village and off toward the hills. Marble floors, 12 ft stone ceilings, overhead fans, and a gigantic bath with contemporary double sinks in granite counter in one room and a double size shower in another. (yes, a two room bath) Bowls of water filled with rose petals, marigolds, etc. oh and we were greeted with the red dot and garlands of marigolds. I feel like I've stepped into a fairy tale.

Jay Singh, the eldest brother of two who primarily are responsible for the continuing renovation and of this magnificent place, gave us a tour and recounted all that they have done to reclaim it from decay and decades of continual "whitewash." They had known the place as their grandparents home all their lives, but were unaware until their work progressed that beneath all that lime were marble pillars and red sandstone features. We began in a treasure vault which was where, for a couple hundred years, the family kept their gold coins and other wealth. Apparently their grandfather was a fanatic for horse racing thoroughbreds and lost much of his fortune, selling off thousands of acres of land, and even parts of the estate right up to the stables.

He told us of cellars running beneath the entirety where they would find pieces of old furniture that they were able to use to reconstruct items from their family's past, such as an elephant "sedan chair" or sofas and chairs, beds, etc. In the exterior entrance courtyard, there were platforms where the elephants would lower and people would only need to climb up two steps to board the platform. In this part of Rajasthan, elephants were only used for show and ceremonies, and it was a status to have them tied to large stone posts in the front. There was one stable area for Malwari horses (the Singhs are a warrior line, calvary was a given in their lives); and another for camels. (Now they keep milk cows in that stable).

Suddenly we found ourselves moving into another entire "wing" of the palace, yes, the ladies' side, with its own courtyard, about the same size as the restored area. There were multiple apartments for several wives and their servants. I think the family now lives in those quarters...or maybe not. They are yet to be completely renovated. There is over 200,000 sq feet of living area in the palace compound. Sunil later told us that there were nice accommodations for drivers, and that he and another went into town after dinner and found the village to be quite nice.

We finished our tour on the roof, with tea and watched the sunset. Jay is an elected official (actually he says they more or less appointed him) for the village, and they have started an NGO to run a school and a hospital. We talked a lot about the challenges of local education. Personally, this guy and his brother have taken on a lot. They have the support of their family, apparently his father and uncle were not in good with the grandfather, because it was Jay and his brother whom his grandfather called on in 2006 to inherit.

The other guests went on an outdoor jeep excursion that afternoon. I am so happy we stayed on for this tour.

OH and the finale was the old man's grand room, with hunting trophies and photos of the Maharajah of Jodphur and great great grandfathers hunting photos. It was like stepping onto a movie set. The ceilings were about 18 ft high, there were two fireplaces. Tiger skin rugs and antlers aplenty, old weapons and musical instruments. There is only one great red crystal chandelier, apparently the other three had been sold to antique dealers, along with much of the original furnishings. This was the room that was on the other side of two doorways, one in our front room, the other in the bedroom, that have been permanently "sealed." And here we had just assumed the area was another guest quarters! This amazing room was quite something.

Dinner was lovely. Drinks around a firepit, and dinner in an exterior courtyard, near the flour mill stones. The best lamb we have had in Rajasthan. Yummy orange pudding for dessert. Great conversation with the other guests.

In the morning we visited the school they have "adopted." There are about six (?) schools that serve the town and surrounding area, but this is a public school that needed the most support. My daughter's English as a Second Language students (3rd graders) back in Durham had written some notes to these students, having had a unit about India earlier in the year. Working with Jay's younger brother, Mahiray, the kids read aloud...sometimes spelling out-- the letters Holly's students had written, and on the back drew pictures and wrote their names, so I could give them directly to Holt Elementary on their return. We used a globe to have them find India and America, and see how we traveled to get there. They then recited some poems in English and Hindi. We were rather late on the rest of our traveling schedule, but it was really worth it!

This was one of those special experiences that make a trip unforgettable.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 20th, 2014, 04:24 PM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've not caught up to my report with photos on Shutterfly, yet, but there is a link I can share http://chanoudgarh.com/home.html for Chanoudgarh.
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 21st, 2014, 01:35 PM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For you weekend viewing pleasure - Jodphur http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2A64...&feature=share
uhoh_busted is offline  
Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 07:02 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Really enjoying your report and all the hints and tips within it. Photos are fab as well.
loncall is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2014, 05:35 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Uhoh_busted would like you to know that for some reason her account at Fodor's is not availabe, but since I am she and she is me, I would like to share a video I made that collapses all our India trip in to four minutes of the super-highlights. http://youtu.be/OzDRAYHmODQ

I would LIKE for uhoh to be able to continue this report under her beloved screen name, but until Fodor's helps her out, I have to post under this screen name, which hasn't been used by me in years.
LadyOLeisure is offline  
Old Mar 27th, 2014, 05:47 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
very nice, uh oh lady o leisure, thanks for sharing!! Liked those food pics too. I never really got round to taking any food pics to speak of . ..and regret it ...
glover is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -