More than 1 month in Iran - My experience
Jan 13th, 2018, 09:13 AM
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More than 1 month in Iran - My experience
Hi,
I went twice to Iran: April 2014 (2 weeks) & September 2017 (3.5 weeks).
Here is a summary of my experience.
Hope it helps - Do not hesitate if you have any questions.
If you want to read more: Travel Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
Detailed breakdown of expenditures: Grand Escapades? Budget Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
And a few pictures: Iran 2017 - A Selection Of 45 Pictures - Grand Escapades
Cheers, Gilles
Itinerary And Time Of The Visit
In April 2014, I spent 2 weeks in Iran and covered the cultural heartland of the country (most of which has now turned into the “Tourist Trail”, except Na’In & Qom): Shiraz, Esfahan, Na’In, Yazd, Kashan, Qom and last but not least Teheran.
In September 2017, I spent 3.5 weeks and wanted to discover less visited parts of the country and covered Tabriz & Northwest Iran (Zanjan, Soltaniyeh, Takht-e Soleiman); Teheran; Mashhad & Torbat-e Jam; the Southwest of Iran (Sushtar, Choqa Zanbil & Shush); before returning on the “Tourist Trail” (Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd & Shiraz).
Why Travel To Iran?
Iran is one of the cradles of our civilizations and this was my main focus: to meet one of the oldest cultures in the world. The Persian Empire shaped the early history of mankind. It is famous for its craftsmanship, its architecture, its tile work, its unparalleled Persian carpets and literature to name a few areas. No wonder, that nowadays the level of education is so high.
Tourism has boomed over the last few years, and the lifting of international sanctions accelerated this phenomenon. The itinerary Teheran - Kashan - Esfahan - Yazd - Shiraz is now very popular, especially amongst (large) tour groups, mostly elderly Europeans. This had a clear impact on the experience I had on my second trip, at least in more touristy places.
But the good news is: it is still extremely easy to go Off The Beaten Track and to experience unique places void of foreign tourists. This is maybe why Iran should be on your list in the short term, before tourism took a too heavy toll, and the unbelievable hospitality and the genuine interest in foreign visitors turn into sheer indifference or worse, greed…
Challenges In The Organization Of The Trip - What Would I Have Wished To Know?
All in all, these trips were extremely easy to organize, especially considering how few people travel to Iran individually. Indeed, the vast majority of tourists travel with an organized tour.
• The main question that might arise before departure is what kind of clothes should a woman take? - This is what we wrote back in April 2014: “Actually, as it turned out, we spent way too many thoughts on this subject. All the female tourists we talked to had worried about what to wear in Iran. Quite easy actually: baggy pants, a shirt that cover your hips and bum, very little cleavage, short scarf - otherwise most of it is wrapped around your neck and drives you crazy, especially in the heat. You are set, not matter where, in rural or in urban areas!”
• The sanctions imposed on Iran are still tight. Once you entered the country, you will have no access to cash! Forget your credit card… You have to take all the money you need with you in cash. This affects individual travellers the most, since you need to pay hotels, restaurants, bus, train & plane tickets as you travel, and not beforehand when using a tour operator. On top of that, there are tons of things you might want to buy, beautiful souvenirs, and of course astonishing carpets (I traded my Camera for one of them in April 2014). So bring enough cash! Some of the more tourist-orientated and more expensive carpet shops in major cities have bank accounts in Europe or Dubai though, which makes it possible to pay by credit card.
• Organizing the visa is now straightforward - Most European citizens can now apply for a 30 day Visa On Arrival at 6 major international airports, and though it is time consuming (it took me approx. 2.5 hours in the middle of the night), it is fairly easy. Be sure to have proof of a hotel booking for the first night(s), and a phone number for this reservation that immigration officers can call - And they might very well do so! You can alternatively apply online for a visa (https://evisatraveller.mfa.ir/en/request/apply/). Note that I did not use this option, but heard it is easy and straightforward. The visa costs 50 € (payable in cash in € or USD) for most European citizens.
• Besides, Iran is very easy to travel, though you might want to book some of your accommodations and transports a few days ahead… The days when you could just show up at any place and find a good accommodation are long gone, at least in touristy places. Especially in Teheran, Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz, you should book a few days, maybe even a few weeks ahead if you want to find a fairly priced mid-range accommodation. Transports might also be a challenge on specific routes, and train tickets are now sold out a few days ahead of time. Domestic plane tickets are quite easy to organize locally on a few days notice, at any reliable local travel agency. In less visited parts of the country, some night VIP buses tend to sell out quickly.
• Traveling during Iranian holidays might be a little tricky, though… Accommodation and transport is overcrowded when you travel during Norooz, the spring festivities, where literally all Iranians are on holiday, traveling their country. I was told that traveling might be really challenging during Ramadan, due to the fact that many shops and almost all restaurants are closed during the day. You actually might want to avoid this period for your trip… Also beware that traveling during the Ashura, the country simply stands still during 3 days.
• Toman, Rial / Rial, Toman… This is extremely confusing in the beginning. Always double check that the prices indicated or discussed are in Toman, and when looking at your bank notes, multiply the price by 10. Toman actually do not exist, but everyone quotes prices in Toman: 1 Toman is 10 Rials, and for bigger amounts sometimes 10.000 Rials, to make things even more confusing...
Highlights Of The Trip
• The people : Iranians simply redefine friendliness and hospitality!
• Esfahan : Discovering this city will most probably be the highlight of everyone’s visit to Iran, offering some of the finest architecture of the whole country, and actually some of the finest architecture I experienced altogether during my many trips.
• Mashhad & Qom : Iran’s two Holy Cities! Iran is known for its beautiful mosques - some of the largest, oldest and finest in the world. But without any doubt, the largest, and some of the most delicate shrines & mosques can be found in Iran’s two spiritual capitals.
• Strolling the relaxed historic town of Tabriz : the largest city of Northwest Iran and the center of Iran’s Azeri population is a crossroad and melting pot of several cultures. Its glorious, if turbulent history bestows this widespread city some of Iran’s most remarkable cultural heritages.
• The diversity of highlights in and around Yazd, a place where you should plan enough time.
• Visiting traditional houses in Kashan.
• Discovering one of the cradles of humanity in Shush, Shushtar & Choqa Zanbil : in Southwestern Iran, in the desert not far from Iraq and Kuwait, the Elamites developed one of the first great civilizations in Human History, with amongst others the first fix human settlement ever created, dating back to the 5th Millennium BC!
• I did not enjoy Teheran on my first visit back in April 2014: too big, too congested, too polluted, too noisy, too hectic… But surprisingly, I quite appreciated this tentacular & chaotic megacity on the second trip in September 2017, and decided to stay longer to discover Teheran more in depth.
• Antic Persepolis and the Tombs of the Achaemenidean Kings Cyrius, Darius & Xerxes
• The Gardens of Shiraz*
• Amazing opportunities for photographers: Iranians are eager to pose for photos, even with complete strangers; astonishing architecture; illuminated buildings in the evening… Iran is a country where I made some of my best shots!
How To Go Off The Beaten Track?
Read more on: Travel Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
I went twice to Iran: April 2014 (2 weeks) & September 2017 (3.5 weeks).
Here is a summary of my experience.
Hope it helps - Do not hesitate if you have any questions.
If you want to read more: Travel Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
Detailed breakdown of expenditures: Grand Escapades? Budget Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
And a few pictures: Iran 2017 - A Selection Of 45 Pictures - Grand Escapades
Cheers, Gilles
Itinerary And Time Of The Visit
In April 2014, I spent 2 weeks in Iran and covered the cultural heartland of the country (most of which has now turned into the “Tourist Trail”, except Na’In & Qom): Shiraz, Esfahan, Na’In, Yazd, Kashan, Qom and last but not least Teheran.
In September 2017, I spent 3.5 weeks and wanted to discover less visited parts of the country and covered Tabriz & Northwest Iran (Zanjan, Soltaniyeh, Takht-e Soleiman); Teheran; Mashhad & Torbat-e Jam; the Southwest of Iran (Sushtar, Choqa Zanbil & Shush); before returning on the “Tourist Trail” (Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd & Shiraz).
Why Travel To Iran?
Iran is one of the cradles of our civilizations and this was my main focus: to meet one of the oldest cultures in the world. The Persian Empire shaped the early history of mankind. It is famous for its craftsmanship, its architecture, its tile work, its unparalleled Persian carpets and literature to name a few areas. No wonder, that nowadays the level of education is so high.
Tourism has boomed over the last few years, and the lifting of international sanctions accelerated this phenomenon. The itinerary Teheran - Kashan - Esfahan - Yazd - Shiraz is now very popular, especially amongst (large) tour groups, mostly elderly Europeans. This had a clear impact on the experience I had on my second trip, at least in more touristy places.
But the good news is: it is still extremely easy to go Off The Beaten Track and to experience unique places void of foreign tourists. This is maybe why Iran should be on your list in the short term, before tourism took a too heavy toll, and the unbelievable hospitality and the genuine interest in foreign visitors turn into sheer indifference or worse, greed…
Challenges In The Organization Of The Trip - What Would I Have Wished To Know?
All in all, these trips were extremely easy to organize, especially considering how few people travel to Iran individually. Indeed, the vast majority of tourists travel with an organized tour.
• The main question that might arise before departure is what kind of clothes should a woman take? - This is what we wrote back in April 2014: “Actually, as it turned out, we spent way too many thoughts on this subject. All the female tourists we talked to had worried about what to wear in Iran. Quite easy actually: baggy pants, a shirt that cover your hips and bum, very little cleavage, short scarf - otherwise most of it is wrapped around your neck and drives you crazy, especially in the heat. You are set, not matter where, in rural or in urban areas!”
• The sanctions imposed on Iran are still tight. Once you entered the country, you will have no access to cash! Forget your credit card… You have to take all the money you need with you in cash. This affects individual travellers the most, since you need to pay hotels, restaurants, bus, train & plane tickets as you travel, and not beforehand when using a tour operator. On top of that, there are tons of things you might want to buy, beautiful souvenirs, and of course astonishing carpets (I traded my Camera for one of them in April 2014). So bring enough cash! Some of the more tourist-orientated and more expensive carpet shops in major cities have bank accounts in Europe or Dubai though, which makes it possible to pay by credit card.
• Organizing the visa is now straightforward - Most European citizens can now apply for a 30 day Visa On Arrival at 6 major international airports, and though it is time consuming (it took me approx. 2.5 hours in the middle of the night), it is fairly easy. Be sure to have proof of a hotel booking for the first night(s), and a phone number for this reservation that immigration officers can call - And they might very well do so! You can alternatively apply online for a visa (https://evisatraveller.mfa.ir/en/request/apply/). Note that I did not use this option, but heard it is easy and straightforward. The visa costs 50 € (payable in cash in € or USD) for most European citizens.
• Besides, Iran is very easy to travel, though you might want to book some of your accommodations and transports a few days ahead… The days when you could just show up at any place and find a good accommodation are long gone, at least in touristy places. Especially in Teheran, Kashan, Esfahan, Yazd and Shiraz, you should book a few days, maybe even a few weeks ahead if you want to find a fairly priced mid-range accommodation. Transports might also be a challenge on specific routes, and train tickets are now sold out a few days ahead of time. Domestic plane tickets are quite easy to organize locally on a few days notice, at any reliable local travel agency. In less visited parts of the country, some night VIP buses tend to sell out quickly.
• Traveling during Iranian holidays might be a little tricky, though… Accommodation and transport is overcrowded when you travel during Norooz, the spring festivities, where literally all Iranians are on holiday, traveling their country. I was told that traveling might be really challenging during Ramadan, due to the fact that many shops and almost all restaurants are closed during the day. You actually might want to avoid this period for your trip… Also beware that traveling during the Ashura, the country simply stands still during 3 days.
• Toman, Rial / Rial, Toman… This is extremely confusing in the beginning. Always double check that the prices indicated or discussed are in Toman, and when looking at your bank notes, multiply the price by 10. Toman actually do not exist, but everyone quotes prices in Toman: 1 Toman is 10 Rials, and for bigger amounts sometimes 10.000 Rials, to make things even more confusing...
Highlights Of The Trip
• The people : Iranians simply redefine friendliness and hospitality!
• Esfahan : Discovering this city will most probably be the highlight of everyone’s visit to Iran, offering some of the finest architecture of the whole country, and actually some of the finest architecture I experienced altogether during my many trips.
• Mashhad & Qom : Iran’s two Holy Cities! Iran is known for its beautiful mosques - some of the largest, oldest and finest in the world. But without any doubt, the largest, and some of the most delicate shrines & mosques can be found in Iran’s two spiritual capitals.
• Strolling the relaxed historic town of Tabriz : the largest city of Northwest Iran and the center of Iran’s Azeri population is a crossroad and melting pot of several cultures. Its glorious, if turbulent history bestows this widespread city some of Iran’s most remarkable cultural heritages.
• The diversity of highlights in and around Yazd, a place where you should plan enough time.
• Visiting traditional houses in Kashan.
• Discovering one of the cradles of humanity in Shush, Shushtar & Choqa Zanbil : in Southwestern Iran, in the desert not far from Iraq and Kuwait, the Elamites developed one of the first great civilizations in Human History, with amongst others the first fix human settlement ever created, dating back to the 5th Millennium BC!
• I did not enjoy Teheran on my first visit back in April 2014: too big, too congested, too polluted, too noisy, too hectic… But surprisingly, I quite appreciated this tentacular & chaotic megacity on the second trip in September 2017, and decided to stay longer to discover Teheran more in depth.
• Antic Persepolis and the Tombs of the Achaemenidean Kings Cyrius, Darius & Xerxes
• The Gardens of Shiraz*
• Amazing opportunities for photographers: Iranians are eager to pose for photos, even with complete strangers; astonishing architecture; illuminated buildings in the evening… Iran is a country where I made some of my best shots!
How To Go Off The Beaten Track?
Read more on: Travel Guide To Iran - Grand Escapades
Jan 13th, 2018, 04:00 PM
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Thanks for sharing, Gilles. I will take a look at your links later tonight. Iran is one of the countries I hope to visit someday. Unfortunately, as an American, I would not be able to go independently. Someday, Inshallah.
Jan 14th, 2018, 01:36 AM
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True, as an American you cannot visit Iran independently. And I am afraid things won't improve in the short term...
But there are tours with very small groups, as far as I know.
Cheers, Gilles
But there are tours with very small groups, as far as I know.
Cheers, Gilles
Jan 14th, 2018, 06:51 AM
#6
I would love to go, but am not sure my UK passport is any more welcome than my US one. Plus I'm female, and the dress requirement is a pain. I went to Uzbekistan instead in 2016, but Iran is still on the list if I ever get to travel again.
Jan 14th, 2018, 11:07 PM
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Hello Gertie3751,
I am surprised at what you wrote: the visa costs 50 € for most European citizens, and is never expensive.
It is actually not a very expensive visa.
And once in Iran, it is a really cheap country.
Cheers, Gilles
I am surprised at what you wrote: the visa costs 50 € for most European citizens, and is never expensive.
It is actually not a very expensive visa.
And once in Iran, it is a really cheap country.
Cheers, Gilles
Jan 14th, 2018, 11:09 PM
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Hello Thursdayd,
It is definitely easier to travel on a UK visa than on an American one.
You might be eligible for Visa on Arrival, but you might get an electronic visa instead.
As I wrote, women must wear a headscarf, but the rules are not very strict. But yes, it is a pain.
Cheers, Gilles
It is definitely easier to travel on a UK visa than on an American one.
You might be eligible for Visa on Arrival, but you might get an electronic visa instead.
As I wrote, women must wear a headscarf, but the rules are not very strict. But yes, it is a pain.
Cheers, Gilles
Jan 15th, 2018, 07:44 AM
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Yes, Gilles, that is certainly true for most EU passports and for many worldwide passports. Unfortunately the UK and US seem to be exceptions. As a UK passport holder who lives in the US, I am very disappointed that I have to jump through so many hoops and pay 170 GBP. Probably a reflection on the way my government treats Iranian passport holders. Not to mention that I would have to change into Iran-appropriate dress even before I get off the plane. So for the moment looks like I won't be going... which is a shame because I have heard such good things about Iran and the history and culture look stunning.
Jan 16th, 2018, 12:22 AM
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Hi Gertie,
Ok, 170 GBP is a lot !
Yes, I think USA & Canada is the most difficult, plus GB quite difficult as well...
And yes, that's reciprocity.
But if you have an opportunity, Iran is great.
Cheers, Gilles
Ok, 170 GBP is a lot !
Yes, I think USA & Canada is the most difficult, plus GB quite difficult as well...
And yes, that's reciprocity.
But if you have an opportunity, Iran is great.
Cheers, Gilles
Feb 27th, 2018, 11:22 PM
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Glad to see this is now a destination on Fodor Forums. My wife is from Iran and travel there every year to different parts. Someday we need to strap down and write up some of our recommendations on urban life - restaurants, cafes, art spaces, boutique hotels etc - in the major cities and the capital. Which as you point out is not easy to find information on without knowing locals.
Feb 28th, 2018, 11:05 PM
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Information is indeed still scarce for independent travelers, though things have improved tremendously over the last few years.
Iran is actually quite easy to travel, at least on the main touristic route.
But any information will be welcome for fellow travelers.
Cheers
Gilles
Iran is actually quite easy to travel, at least on the main touristic route.
But any information will be welcome for fellow travelers.
Cheers
Gilles
Mar 1st, 2018, 10:58 AM
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I just purchased the brand new edition of Lonely Planet Iran and can’t wait to start diving into it. As an American, I’d have to go on a tour which for 2+ weeks I am loathe to do. However, the country looks fascinating and everyone comments on the wonderful hospitality of the Iranian people.
For many of us in the West, there is a 40 year reason for the stringent reciprocity between some of our countries and the Iranian government. Do not forget that the GOVERNMENT held Americans hostage for well over one year. And the GOVERNMENT has been a covert sponsor of state terrorism for decades. So no one should kid themselves that is a benign regime. It is one that I would have to reconcile my principles with spending my hard earned cash there. But I’m aftraid Indo feel a pull to see the amazing architecture and culture and do hope to visit there one day in the future.
For many of us in the West, there is a 40 year reason for the stringent reciprocity between some of our countries and the Iranian government. Do not forget that the GOVERNMENT held Americans hostage for well over one year. And the GOVERNMENT has been a covert sponsor of state terrorism for decades. So no one should kid themselves that is a benign regime. It is one that I would have to reconcile my principles with spending my hard earned cash there. But I’m aftraid Indo feel a pull to see the amazing architecture and culture and do hope to visit there one day in the future.
Mar 1st, 2018, 12:06 PM
#15
This blog may make you even more keen to go: https://travellingtheworldsolo.com/2...mg-im-in-iran/
Do you have to go with a group, or could you have your own tour guide?
Do you have to go with a group, or could you have your own tour guide?
Mar 2nd, 2018, 06:13 AM
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Iran is definitely worth discovering, and yes, it is bothersome for Americans to be on a tour. But remember, a "tour" can be 2 people ;-)
As far as the government is concerned, I understand your concern, but do not forget that governments and the people in the country are quite different. Iranians are extremely open, educated, cultured, and welcoming people.
If you evaluate travel destinations for the government of these very destinations, you might be quite limited on your options worldwide. And by the way: please keep in mind what the American government did in other countries... Not always really pretty !
Cheers
Gilles
As far as the government is concerned, I understand your concern, but do not forget that governments and the people in the country are quite different. Iranians are extremely open, educated, cultured, and welcoming people.
If you evaluate travel destinations for the government of these very destinations, you might be quite limited on your options worldwide. And by the way: please keep in mind what the American government did in other countries... Not always really pretty !
Cheers
Gilles
Mar 5th, 2018, 03:55 PM
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@oneyearoff:
Any traveler that fails to do due diligence on the government and current political state of the countries one wishes to visit is not being travel smart and is potentially asking for trouble.
As for the American government, last I checked they never held foreign diplomats hostage in their own embassy for 444 days nor kidnapped, beat and sexually assaulted 3 college age hikers accused of being “spies”. Just sayin’.
Any traveler that fails to do due diligence on the government and current political state of the countries one wishes to visit is not being travel smart and is potentially asking for trouble.
As for the American government, last I checked they never held foreign diplomats hostage in their own embassy for 444 days nor kidnapped, beat and sexually assaulted 3 college age hikers accused of being “spies”. Just sayin’.
Mar 5th, 2018, 11:44 PM
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@MinnBeef
I do not get where you think I do not check the situation in countries I visit. I clearly do, and try to have a balanced approach...
And do not get me wrong, I do in no way support the Iranian government !!!
I just said that you should not mix government and the people in the country.
As far as the USA is concerned, ever heard of Laos ? 2 million tons of bombs (amongst which many cluster bomb that still handicap children and farmers nowadays) on a country that was not at war with the USA ? Go to Phonsavanh... An interesting experience !
And that's only one of many examples, so I do not think it is advisable to judge other countries before checking the situation at home.
Cheers
Gilles
I do not get where you think I do not check the situation in countries I visit. I clearly do, and try to have a balanced approach...
And do not get me wrong, I do in no way support the Iranian government !!!
I just said that you should not mix government and the people in the country.
As far as the USA is concerned, ever heard of Laos ? 2 million tons of bombs (amongst which many cluster bomb that still handicap children and farmers nowadays) on a country that was not at war with the USA ? Go to Phonsavanh... An interesting experience !
And that's only one of many examples, so I do not think it is advisable to judge other countries before checking the situation at home.
Cheers
Gilles
Last edited by OneYearOff; Mar 6th, 2018 at 12:26 AM.
