The Travel Cartel Go to Colombia
Jan 17th, 2016, 04:20 PM
#24
Original Poster
Moreweird- thanks for following along.
SusaninToronto - I think we identified Casa Deco from your TR. Glad you enjoyed Bogota.
<b> Onto Salento</b>
What should have been an easy travel day with a 1 hour flight to Armenia followed by a short drive to Salento, turned into six hour stay at the Bogota Domestic terminal courtesy of Avianca.
We arrived at the airport with time to spare for our noonish flight. Breezed thru checkin and had some coffee and then made our way upstairs thru security and sat at our gate about an hour before boarding time. They called our flight and we dutifully lined up and were directed "straight ahead" by pointing from an Avianca agent. We followed the group, got on a bus and rode all over the airport it seemed, ending across the airport from where we began. At this point it was nearing flt departure time and we were clueless where our plane was and what in the world was going on. The bus driver told us and about 7 Spanish speaking customers also going to Armenia to get back on the bus. At this point we had no choice. He drove us back across the Tarmac dropped us off and pointed to a plane sitting with steps still down. So we and the group of others ran, got there and were told we missed the boarding! Long story short after about 2 hours of negotiateing we finally got boarding passes for a 6 pm flight to Armenia at no cost to us. We convinced Avianca staff to let us wait in the biz class lounge which was not great shakes, but better than hanging out in the main airport for 4 hours. We still are not clear how or why we ended up on a shuttle that we shouldn't have been on. Neither of us have ever missed a flight.
Finally we arrived in Salento and it was hopping as it was Friday of the final weekend of the holiday season. We were staying at Hostal Ciudad de Segorbe recommended by glover. Just as glover described the Hostal is basic, clean and pleasant. It just lacks space to put our meager belongings, esp in the bathroom. Given GT's height, 6'3", the bed was a bit short-a perennial problem where ever we travel.
We immediately liked this rainbow colored town which looked as if it came out of a box of crayons. ElizabethS commented the paint shop is the richest store in town and she's undoubtedly right. Music was playing on every block and everyone seemed to be having a grand ole time. Of course their grand ole time caused our inability to sleep. We were treated to miscellaneous automotive noises throughout the night including a car alarm at 2 am. Town folk started their day early on Saturday-as did we. We were dragging on Saturday and looked for easy things to do. We spent some of the day wandering the small charming town, window shopping and photographing the vivid exteriors of the buildings. We skipped the mirador because we were so tired. Late in the afternoon we took a short hike out of town in search of a defunct bullring that the guy at the hostal told us about. We never found the bullring, but we did find a lovely secluded restaurant , El Porton de Juako, with great views and more staff then customers. We stopped in to admire the views, watch the birds and have a drink. We liked the place so much we decided to return for dinner at sunset. We then returned to the Hostal for some serious hammock time.
We walked back up the hill to the restaurant about thirty minutes before sunset. The town was crowded with musicians, jugglers, fire eaters and some festive campesinos in traditional garb.
We arrived at the restaurant and were warmly greeted. Through GT's caveman Spanish and a protracted back and forth between GT and the server, we finally placed an order of steak and grilled trout with mushrooms and garlic. We occupied ourselves watching the sunset and birdwatching, We saw several blue crowned mot mots that we later had identified by emailing our birder friends. Food was good and I esp liked my introduction to the patacon Colombiano (mashed plantains made into a very thin crepe and fried.). We headed back thru town while I searched for the perfect dessert. We ended up at a small pastry shop where GT had carrot cake with caramel on the side. Being a fan of dulce de leche, I had a fabulous oblea which is basically a caramel sandwich. We rolled the down the hill to the hostal, collapsed in our small bed and slept the sleep of the weary.
Another reason for our early bedtime was our planned trip early Sunday morning to the Cocora Valley to hike amid the wax palms.
SusaninToronto - I think we identified Casa Deco from your TR. Glad you enjoyed Bogota.
<b> Onto Salento</b>
What should have been an easy travel day with a 1 hour flight to Armenia followed by a short drive to Salento, turned into six hour stay at the Bogota Domestic terminal courtesy of Avianca.
We arrived at the airport with time to spare for our noonish flight. Breezed thru checkin and had some coffee and then made our way upstairs thru security and sat at our gate about an hour before boarding time. They called our flight and we dutifully lined up and were directed "straight ahead" by pointing from an Avianca agent. We followed the group, got on a bus and rode all over the airport it seemed, ending across the airport from where we began. At this point it was nearing flt departure time and we were clueless where our plane was and what in the world was going on. The bus driver told us and about 7 Spanish speaking customers also going to Armenia to get back on the bus. At this point we had no choice. He drove us back across the Tarmac dropped us off and pointed to a plane sitting with steps still down. So we and the group of others ran, got there and were told we missed the boarding! Long story short after about 2 hours of negotiateing we finally got boarding passes for a 6 pm flight to Armenia at no cost to us. We convinced Avianca staff to let us wait in the biz class lounge which was not great shakes, but better than hanging out in the main airport for 4 hours. We still are not clear how or why we ended up on a shuttle that we shouldn't have been on. Neither of us have ever missed a flight.
Finally we arrived in Salento and it was hopping as it was Friday of the final weekend of the holiday season. We were staying at Hostal Ciudad de Segorbe recommended by glover. Just as glover described the Hostal is basic, clean and pleasant. It just lacks space to put our meager belongings, esp in the bathroom. Given GT's height, 6'3", the bed was a bit short-a perennial problem where ever we travel.
We immediately liked this rainbow colored town which looked as if it came out of a box of crayons. ElizabethS commented the paint shop is the richest store in town and she's undoubtedly right. Music was playing on every block and everyone seemed to be having a grand ole time. Of course their grand ole time caused our inability to sleep. We were treated to miscellaneous automotive noises throughout the night including a car alarm at 2 am. Town folk started their day early on Saturday-as did we. We were dragging on Saturday and looked for easy things to do. We spent some of the day wandering the small charming town, window shopping and photographing the vivid exteriors of the buildings. We skipped the mirador because we were so tired. Late in the afternoon we took a short hike out of town in search of a defunct bullring that the guy at the hostal told us about. We never found the bullring, but we did find a lovely secluded restaurant , El Porton de Juako, with great views and more staff then customers. We stopped in to admire the views, watch the birds and have a drink. We liked the place so much we decided to return for dinner at sunset. We then returned to the Hostal for some serious hammock time.
We walked back up the hill to the restaurant about thirty minutes before sunset. The town was crowded with musicians, jugglers, fire eaters and some festive campesinos in traditional garb.
We arrived at the restaurant and were warmly greeted. Through GT's caveman Spanish and a protracted back and forth between GT and the server, we finally placed an order of steak and grilled trout with mushrooms and garlic. We occupied ourselves watching the sunset and birdwatching, We saw several blue crowned mot mots that we later had identified by emailing our birder friends. Food was good and I esp liked my introduction to the patacon Colombiano (mashed plantains made into a very thin crepe and fried.). We headed back thru town while I searched for the perfect dessert. We ended up at a small pastry shop where GT had carrot cake with caramel on the side. Being a fan of dulce de leche, I had a fabulous oblea which is basically a caramel sandwich. We rolled the down the hill to the hostal, collapsed in our small bed and slept the sleep of the weary.
Another reason for our early bedtime was our planned trip early Sunday morning to the Cocora Valley to hike amid the wax palms.
Jan 21st, 2016, 06:28 AM
#26
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Looks like AVIANCA "dropped the ball" and that's a drag. Good for you standing up for your rights.
But what else would I expect????????
Did you make all of your flight arrangements before leaving the US????????
Cheers, my dears......keep having fun.
But what else would I expect????????
Did you make all of your flight arrangements before leaving the US????????
Cheers, my dears......keep having fun.
Jan 21st, 2016, 09:10 AM
#27
Original Poster
Yes, these were funds from our cancelled trip last winter. One thing I will say about Abusnca for cancelling and rebooking only a $50 charge and with DR note no charge. Far more generous than any American airline.
Jan 21st, 2016, 01:24 PM
#28
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<b>Salento Day 2 </b>
We awoke early on our second day in Salento, ate a breakfast from the Hostal de Ciudad Segobe's meager fare of fruit, bread, arepas and cheese and then made two large avocado sandwiches with provisions we'd bought the day before. Our intent was to catch a 9:30 Willy (jeep-like vehicle) to the Cocora Valley for our wax palm hike. There was some uncertainty about the location of said willies. One staff person at The Hostal had indicated a temporary site on a side street three blocks away. Another had indicated that they were again departing from the main plaza. We'd left some time to play a round of "where's our willy?" that morning.
We checked the plaza first. No willies. We made our way to the side street. Willies! The drivers only leave when a willy is full. They hold about ten people. Ours filled promptly and we were on our way to the Cocora a little after 9:00. The fare is 3000 Colombian pesos - a little less than one U$D - per person. The drive to the Cocora takes about half an hour and the willy dropped us near the trail head.
There were actually two trails, one a wide road going directly ahead, the other a trail that branched off to the right. The Hostal had given us a flyer with notes to, but no map of, the trail system. The notes indicated that we should take the trail to the right, head through pastureland past a trout farm, then ascend into cloud forest, pass an intersection with the first trail, continue onward and arrive at a hummingbird refuge; we were then to return to the intersection and flow that trail back to our starting point. A map at the trail head indicated that this was doable. Our plan was to skip the hummingbird refuge and head back once we reached the intersection.
We were on our chosen trail well before 10:00. After a steep downward dip in the beginning, it began a slow ascent. The valley was very pretty with the famed wax palms scattered across the pastureland and up the hillsides. Walking through the pastureland in the morning sun became increasingly warm and we welcomed arriving at the shady forested section. However the trail became steeper and rockier and our progress slower, in part due to the high elevation. By now the trail was following a stream bed. We crossed a series of six rickety plank and wire bridges that were posted with signage advising that people cross one at a time- not that we'd be tempted to do otherwise. We were repeatedly passed by people ascending the rugged trail on horseback as well as occasional hikers. At one point we were passed by a poncho-clad campesino with four heavily-laden pack horses; he walked behind them presumably checking his email on a hand-held device.
After our first two hours, we began meeting groups of hikers ascending from the hummingbird sanctuary. To a person, they all asserted that there was no intersection with the other path. We were hot, tired and puzzled. We had come to see wax palms, not hummingbirds, and were by now well above the elevation at which they grew. Every down-bound hiker had indicated that this was the only trail. After some debate about whether to continue, and a brief adjournment for lunch - the avocado sandwiches were great - we decided not to continue the ascent but instead return the way we had come. So we made our way down, back across the six swinging bridges, again scrambling over the rocks we'd scrambled over earlier. Eventually, we made it back to the pastureland and headed on to the trailhead. By now, the pastureland trail was hot and crowded. We arrived at the trailhead close to 5 hours after we'd started our hike.
We hiked up the wider trail - a road actually - between parked vehicles, through Sunday crowds and amid horseback riders for a view of more palms. The sheer mass of people and unrelenting heat eventually caused us to turn back. We returned to the Willy staging area and, after twenty minute wait for the Willy to fill, we headed back to Salento. A later discussion with a hiker couple indicated that there was in fact an intersection and that the walk back down through the Cocora Valley on the road was spectacular. We appear to have simply given up too soon.
Note: We are experienced hikers who generally hike moderate trails with no difficulty. We would rate this hike as strenuous as it involves rock scrambles and a steep ascent at a relatively high altitude. Nonetheless, we regret turning back at a point where, based on hiker info about the distance to the hummingbird refuge, we must have been very close to the intersection. The lack of maps/information contributed to what we regard as a bad decision.
That evening we again walked around town, watched jugglers and listened to a variety of live performers. We had a tasty dinner at a new restaurant called Makao. We shared a salad, YT had grilled trout with garlic (but, alas, no accompanying patacon) and I had a very good chicken curry. This place is definitely worth a try. We walked around some more, then returned to our room to pack for the next day's scenic bus trip through coffee country and the mountains on to Medellín via Pereira.
<b>Our Bus Trip </b>
Our bus was new and small. It seated maybe sixteen. The route was also new going direct from Salento to Medellín and the fare was a reasonable 40,000 Colombian pesos - about 13 U$D - apiece. The weather was unseasonably hot, perhaps due to El Niño. The air conditioning didn't work very well and was eventually abandoned in the heat of the afternoon. We stopped once at bus terminal in Pereira, once for lunch and once again for a tire change "that would make us safer." The two-lane road became increasingly crowded with trucks and other vehicles, slowing our progress. Our driver was the impatient manic sort who passed large trucks on blind curves and sped exorbitantly only to again become stuck behind another lumbering truck. As we neared Medellín we increasingly encountered roadwork. In Medellín itself, we became stuck in rush hour traffic. We had left Salento promptly at 9:30. We arrived at the Medellín bus station some time after 5:00. To top everything off, our cab driver from the bus station queue couldn't find our hotel and treated us to an impromptu tour of the Poblado neighborhood during rush hour.
The countryside enroute may have indeed been beautiful. Not that we cared. Our advice: Fly.
Sent from my iPad
We awoke early on our second day in Salento, ate a breakfast from the Hostal de Ciudad Segobe's meager fare of fruit, bread, arepas and cheese and then made two large avocado sandwiches with provisions we'd bought the day before. Our intent was to catch a 9:30 Willy (jeep-like vehicle) to the Cocora Valley for our wax palm hike. There was some uncertainty about the location of said willies. One staff person at The Hostal had indicated a temporary site on a side street three blocks away. Another had indicated that they were again departing from the main plaza. We'd left some time to play a round of "where's our willy?" that morning.
We checked the plaza first. No willies. We made our way to the side street. Willies! The drivers only leave when a willy is full. They hold about ten people. Ours filled promptly and we were on our way to the Cocora a little after 9:00. The fare is 3000 Colombian pesos - a little less than one U$D - per person. The drive to the Cocora takes about half an hour and the willy dropped us near the trail head.
There were actually two trails, one a wide road going directly ahead, the other a trail that branched off to the right. The Hostal had given us a flyer with notes to, but no map of, the trail system. The notes indicated that we should take the trail to the right, head through pastureland past a trout farm, then ascend into cloud forest, pass an intersection with the first trail, continue onward and arrive at a hummingbird refuge; we were then to return to the intersection and flow that trail back to our starting point. A map at the trail head indicated that this was doable. Our plan was to skip the hummingbird refuge and head back once we reached the intersection.
We were on our chosen trail well before 10:00. After a steep downward dip in the beginning, it began a slow ascent. The valley was very pretty with the famed wax palms scattered across the pastureland and up the hillsides. Walking through the pastureland in the morning sun became increasingly warm and we welcomed arriving at the shady forested section. However the trail became steeper and rockier and our progress slower, in part due to the high elevation. By now the trail was following a stream bed. We crossed a series of six rickety plank and wire bridges that were posted with signage advising that people cross one at a time- not that we'd be tempted to do otherwise. We were repeatedly passed by people ascending the rugged trail on horseback as well as occasional hikers. At one point we were passed by a poncho-clad campesino with four heavily-laden pack horses; he walked behind them presumably checking his email on a hand-held device.
After our first two hours, we began meeting groups of hikers ascending from the hummingbird sanctuary. To a person, they all asserted that there was no intersection with the other path. We were hot, tired and puzzled. We had come to see wax palms, not hummingbirds, and were by now well above the elevation at which they grew. Every down-bound hiker had indicated that this was the only trail. After some debate about whether to continue, and a brief adjournment for lunch - the avocado sandwiches were great - we decided not to continue the ascent but instead return the way we had come. So we made our way down, back across the six swinging bridges, again scrambling over the rocks we'd scrambled over earlier. Eventually, we made it back to the pastureland and headed on to the trailhead. By now, the pastureland trail was hot and crowded. We arrived at the trailhead close to 5 hours after we'd started our hike.
We hiked up the wider trail - a road actually - between parked vehicles, through Sunday crowds and amid horseback riders for a view of more palms. The sheer mass of people and unrelenting heat eventually caused us to turn back. We returned to the Willy staging area and, after twenty minute wait for the Willy to fill, we headed back to Salento. A later discussion with a hiker couple indicated that there was in fact an intersection and that the walk back down through the Cocora Valley on the road was spectacular. We appear to have simply given up too soon.
Note: We are experienced hikers who generally hike moderate trails with no difficulty. We would rate this hike as strenuous as it involves rock scrambles and a steep ascent at a relatively high altitude. Nonetheless, we regret turning back at a point where, based on hiker info about the distance to the hummingbird refuge, we must have been very close to the intersection. The lack of maps/information contributed to what we regard as a bad decision.
That evening we again walked around town, watched jugglers and listened to a variety of live performers. We had a tasty dinner at a new restaurant called Makao. We shared a salad, YT had grilled trout with garlic (but, alas, no accompanying patacon) and I had a very good chicken curry. This place is definitely worth a try. We walked around some more, then returned to our room to pack for the next day's scenic bus trip through coffee country and the mountains on to Medellín via Pereira.
<b>Our Bus Trip </b>
Our bus was new and small. It seated maybe sixteen. The route was also new going direct from Salento to Medellín and the fare was a reasonable 40,000 Colombian pesos - about 13 U$D - apiece. The weather was unseasonably hot, perhaps due to El Niño. The air conditioning didn't work very well and was eventually abandoned in the heat of the afternoon. We stopped once at bus terminal in Pereira, once for lunch and once again for a tire change "that would make us safer." The two-lane road became increasingly crowded with trucks and other vehicles, slowing our progress. Our driver was the impatient manic sort who passed large trucks on blind curves and sped exorbitantly only to again become stuck behind another lumbering truck. As we neared Medellín we increasingly encountered roadwork. In Medellín itself, we became stuck in rush hour traffic. We had left Salento promptly at 9:30. We arrived at the Medellín bus station some time after 5:00. To top everything off, our cab driver from the bus station queue couldn't find our hotel and treated us to an impromptu tour of the Poblado neighborhood during rush hour.
The countryside enroute may have indeed been beautiful. Not that we cared. Our advice: Fly.
Sent from my iPad
Jan 21st, 2016, 05:44 PM
#30
Original Poster
Tp- I think our mistake was not having a better understanding of the hike. I guess we are spoiled in the US and in Europe where hikes are well marked and one knows how much further, on the right trail etc. other hiking in SA has not had markings and it was hiking sometimes on blind faith. Also one never knows how effected one might be by the altitude. This valley ranged from 1800 to 2400meters.
Jan 22nd, 2016, 09:28 AM
#35
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I can appreciate how the lack of signage could make it more of a challenge; we had a similar issue at Namsan in South Korea. I guess I did not think about the altitude change, but my geographic understanding of Colombia is more limited than some of the other countries in South America.
Jan 22nd, 2016, 03:23 PM
#37
Original Poster
We made it just an hour late. Cartagena so far reminds me of the Carribean.
Mlgb, thanks for the suggestion. Will try to get there tomorrow.
Tp- hiking in Korea...now that would be interesting. Right now we're at sea level and I really feel the difference.
Alison-thanks! Colombia was never on my horizon, so you never know. A couple TRs got me interested.
Mlgb, thanks for the suggestion. Will try to get there tomorrow.
Tp- hiking in Korea...now that would be interesting. Right now we're at sea level and I really feel the difference.
Alison-thanks! Colombia was never on my horizon, so you never know. A couple TRs got me interested.
Jan 22nd, 2016, 05:15 PM
#38
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That was a bummer re: the wax palms.But HOW adventurous. WE would not be up to that hike.
As I read about your bus trip I thought"couldn't they fly?" And then you suggested that IS the way to go.
Could not get a feel for how much time you spent in Mendelin....... everyone seems to adore Cartagena....what IS your take?
Your adventures have me keeping Colombia on my more immediate "bucket list".................SAFE TRAVELS.
As I read about your bus trip I thought"couldn't they fly?" And then you suggested that IS the way to go.
Could not get a feel for how much time you spent in Mendelin....... everyone seems to adore Cartagena....what IS your take?
Your adventures have me keeping Colombia on my more immediate "bucket list".................SAFE TRAVELS.
Jan 22nd, 2016, 11:25 PM
#40
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Enjoying following along and glad you made it to Cartegena, where did you end up staying in Medellin? We also had some adventures hiking in Colombia, which I will go into when I finally get around to a TR. Perhaps by the time you've moved on to Ecuador!
