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-   -   Feedback on our Southern US road trip itinerary (https://www.fodors.com/community/road-trips/feedback-on-our-southern-us-road-trip-itinerary-991392/)

katejer Sep 10th, 2013 02:21 AM

Feedback on our Southern US road trip itinerary
 
Hi

We're 3 Australian friends doing a road trip of Southern US next April.

We have an itinerary planned, however are unsure whether it's realistic to visit all these places in 24 nights without driving too much and rushing things. We also want to ensure that we don't miss out on some great places along the way.

To give you an idea of our interests, we enjoy going to beaches, shopping, art and architecture, history, good food and wine, seeing live music, generally absorbing new cultures and outdoor activities like hiking (as long as this isn't all the time!)

Our current plan is as follows:

- Head from New York (our first stop) to Miami and stay for 3 nights. Information on what Miami is like would be great. We're looking for nice beaches and good nightlife but not too busy or trashy.

- Hire a car and head a few hours North to a quieter beach town. Any suggestions?

- Drive to Savannah and stay for 3 nights.

- Drive to Charleston and stay for 5 nights.

- Drive to The Great Smoky Mountains and stay for 2 nights.

- Drive to Nashville and stay for 3 nights.

- Drive to Memphis and stay for 2 nights.

- Drive to New Orleans for the Jazz Festival and stay for 4 nights.

Any feedback and recommendations would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Kate

spirobulldog Sep 10th, 2013 03:24 AM

5 nights would be to many for me in Charleston. While you are in Miami, surely visit The Everglades and I would also drive The Keys.

On your drive to The Great Smokys, stop at Ashville NC and see The Biltmore House.

I think your plan is doable.

I have never been to Cumberland Island National Seashore, but it is somewhere I've wanted to visit. It's not far from your route. I've been to Charleston and Savannah, I'm not sure how I missed it when we were there.

spirobulldog Sep 10th, 2013 03:26 AM

I'm not sure how to describe the beaches in Florida, other than They may not be what you are thinking they might be. I'll let others comment

Gretchen Sep 10th, 2013 04:35 AM

I don't really think the beaches in Miami are exactly what you may want.
I haven't looked real carefully but in 24 days, I don't think you've allowed much for driving time between places. Miami to Savannah is a HIKE.
I think you really might enjoy a beach near Charleston--Wild Dunes or such.
If some of your "nights" as in Savannah, include the drive to get there, that is "good". I think you could cut a day off of Charleston also, and I LOVE Charleston. But there is the beach there, as I mentioned.
I think it is a doable trip and a good itinerary basically--just have to run the numbers for the travel times, I think.

dwdvagamundo Sep 10th, 2013 06:28 AM

I think it's doable but do check the driving times as Gretchen suggests.

I'd cut two nites from Charleston and add at least one to Memphis--Memphis has lots of music-related things to see and you'll want more that one day there.

Daytona Beach, St. Augustine Beach are both on the East Coast and would make a good stop between Miami and Savannah. St. Augustine is the oldest city in the US and is worth a look. So maybe add one nite at St. Augustine. The best Florida beaches are on the Gulf Coast, not the East Coast, although if you just want to lie or walk on the beach, then either of the above will do.

On the way from Memphis to New Orleans, stop in Clarksdale, MS, and visit the Blues Museum. It's not live music but it will get you in the mood for NO.

Jazz Festival is a lot of fun and you should leave there sated with music.

BKD Sep 10th, 2013 06:53 AM

Sounds like a great trip! I think one thing I'd change is 8 nights between Savannah and Charleston. That's a lot and I'd pick one over the other. Charleston probably has a little more to do, better places to eat and its proximity to plantations and history is better in my view. I would do three nights in Charleston or 4 but use one day to head to some of the barrier islands.

Definitely stop in Asheville and use that as a base for the Smokey Mountains. Lots of music and arts and still has a thriving hippie population. Frankly I like it better than Nashville, but if you're into country music then do stop in Nashville.

I totally agree with dwdvagamundo regarding a stop in Clarksdale. There's a funky place called the Shack Up Inn (yes, you stay in shacks)that will give you the flavor of the Delta. Also, Morgan Freeman has a blues club there and a restaurant. On your way to New Orleans, stop in Natchez, Mississippi. You might want to spend one night there and visit some of the incredible antebellum homes there.

Jazz Fest is a great way to end the trip! Have not missed it in 38 years except the year I got married which was the first weekend of the festival (kind of busy but our guests got to go-we live in New Orleans). One thing if you want to soak up some sun after Jazz Fest and get a little rest before you head home, the best beaches in America are 3 hours away on the Gulf Coast.

cd Sep 10th, 2013 07:32 AM

I would cut off a day from Savannah and a day from Charleston and head to Pensacola or Destin Florida from Memphis for those two days. The beaches in the Panhandle are beautiful and it is just about 5hrs to New Orleans from there. Also, for Miami I would stay in South Beach.

Gretchen Sep 10th, 2013 07:44 AM

Asheville is just too far for a base for the Smokies, but is definitely worth a stop for the Biltmore House and a meal downtown. Then from Asheville they could just head through the Park, maybe via Cherokee (not because of Cherokee, but because it is a southeastern gateway).
I also think the Panhandle beaches are too far out of their way. There are pretty beaches on the southeast coast around Charleston. Please don't go to Hilton Head!!
Edisto could be a cute stop for charm.
The Georgia beaches--Jekyll, st. Simon's could be nice.

BigRuss Sep 10th, 2013 08:00 AM

<<head to Pensacola or Destin Florida from Memphis for those two days.>>

That's just loopy. It's 7 hours by car from Memphis to Pensacola. BKD's plan is better - plan a week for New Orleans at the end with two days post Jazz Fest to go to Gulf beaches and return on the third day.

Get the Jazz Fest tickets ahead of time. http://www.nojazzfest.com/

<<Jazz Festival is a lot of fun and you should leave there sated with music>>

They're Aussie - likelihood is they'll be sated with more than music considering the potent potables in NOLA.

jent103 Sep 10th, 2013 08:01 AM

I like the idea of either dropping some time in Charleston, or making your beach time somewhere in the SC/Georgia region near Savannah or Charleston, and adding that Florida beach time to Asheville. Asheville is great and is different from anywhere else on your itinerary.

<i>if you're into country music then do stop in Nashville</i>

There is actually plenty to do, see, hear and eat in Nashville that is not related to country music. Though we do have that too.

BKD Sep 10th, 2013 12:56 PM

jent, didn't mean to slight your town! I like Nashville, beautiful place. I was just trying to take into consideration the amount of time they have and that if they're into country music they should definitely make it a stop.

Also, Gretchen, I agree that Asheville is not necessarily a "base" for the Smokey's, but worth spending a night or two on the way. Funky, cool town. Good BBQ at 12 Bones, too. I like the Highlands/Cashiers area in the mountains.

jent103 Sep 10th, 2013 01:50 PM

Sorry, BKD... that probably came across as harsher than I meant it to! The country stereotype does get kind of old (though I do have a pair of cowboy boots), so I'm probably a little oversensitive too. It's a fun time to live here. We're so hot right now. ;)

katejer Sep 10th, 2013 02:08 PM

Thanks for all those suggestions. If we did cut out Florida, which beaches closer to Charleston would you recommend we visit?

jent103 Sep 10th, 2013 04:13 PM

Well, Gretchen will probably have a heart attack if you pick Hilton Head :) (it's "sterile", from what I hear; haven't been there myself). Folly Beach is the closest to downtown Charleston, and Isle of Palms isn't far. Kiawah and Seabrook Islands are about 30-45 minutes away. There's also Tybee Island near Savannah.

My family goes to Kiawah when we go to the beach. It's pretty quiet and family-friendly, with lots of condos and vacation homes (many of which rent by the week, though they might be more flexible in April). So that may or may not be appealing, depending on what kind of beach experience you're looking for. Basically no nightlife! But you'll get that in the cities.

Gretchen Sep 10th, 2013 04:44 PM

Geez, jent, I agreed with you and you call me out. I said Exactly what you did. And if you haven't been to HH, then go and tell me different. And the icon doesn't help--just ignore the idea if you need to.
Kiawah and many others are beautiful and at the same time interesting.

Dukey1 Sep 10th, 2013 06:41 PM

The distance from Miami to Savannah is 495 miles. The speed limit is almost consistently 70 MPH throughout the entire route except for some short sections in Georgia and where there is construction along I-95 in Florida. In other words, you can very easily do the trip in ONE day.

I would not spend five nights in Charleston...just not enough to do for FIVE nights in my opinion.

In terms of "nice" beaches I would get away from South Beach in Miami (sure, there's nightlife but there's a lot of nightlife in places like Fort Lauderdale and other beach towns, too. Depends on what kind of nightlife you like..how OLD are you anyway? knowing THAT would help a great deal.

katejer Sep 10th, 2013 10:41 PM

We're 29. Still like nightlife, just not going out every night.

BKD Sep 11th, 2013 04:49 AM

If you're thinking about cutting out Florida, then why fly to Miami? (Though I think Miami is a pretty cool happening place that is the closest thing to South America in North America and at your age I would stay in South Beach if you do end up there.) From New York you can probably fly right into Charleston or Charlotte, North Carolina, or Savannah, or Atlanta, or Jacksonville is very close to Savannah. All would be much closer than Miami. Miami's airport is a pain the butt, too. So if you decide not to go to south Florida I would avoid MIA.

There are numerous beaches between Savannah and Charleston. South of Charleston are Edisto Island and Kiawah. Kiawah has a big resort. Also a side trip to Beaufort would be interesting. Must see is Middleton Gardens outside of Charleston.

cd Sep 11th, 2013 05:37 AM

The beaches along the Atlantic and the beaches of the Gulf Coast are two different kinds of beach. IMHO the Gulf Coast are superior. The sand is soft and white and the water a beautiful blue. At 29yrs old I still think you would like Pensacola or Destin, beautiful beach time and good nite life.

sludick Sep 11th, 2013 05:58 AM

Just keep in mind that in April, the farther north you go, the colder the water/weather.

jent103 Sep 11th, 2013 06:47 AM

Gretchen, it was intended to be a joke, given your strong opinion above (and on numerous other threads); if it did not come across that way, sorry. I didn't say they *should* go to Hilton Head and didn't disagree with your assessment. I have no personal opinion on it whatsoever, since as stated I have not been; I was trying to pass on information I've seen numerous times, but will quit trying to do that.

Gretchen Sep 11th, 2013 06:48 AM

I will agree with sludick that if you are considering actually getting IN the water, the SC beaches might not be warm enough yet. But for beautiful lounging and walking.

Brian_in_Charlotte Sep 11th, 2013 07:24 AM

Keep Miami - stay in South Beach and enjoy the nightlife and beaches. It will be busy, but it's a lot of fun. Then head over to Anna Maria Island (on the gulf coast near Tampa) for a totally different FL beach experience (more laid back, old Florida). It doesn't add too much extra driving and sends you through the everglades in case you want to stop there.

After regrouping and relaxing on AMI, drive to Savannah, spend 2 nights then 3 nights in Charleston. I wouldn't bother staying at the beaches around Charleston or Savannah that time of year - likely won't be warm enough for a lot of beach time. If it is warm, you can easily drive out to the beach for a day/afternoon.

Spend any extra time in the mountains, maybe adding Asheville. I think you could also drop a night from Nashville.

nytraveler Sep 11th, 2013 08:39 AM

I think that in April you may well find the water too cold except in southern FL.

And I assume you are flying NYC to Miami. Be aware that in NYC you can have early spring or still winter - the high may be 75 or 50 and esp cold out on the water. Also too early for leaves on the trees or many flowers. Be sure to bring at least one sweater.

Gretchen Sep 11th, 2013 11:54 AM

Brian has a nice itinerary, and south Florida is really worth a look.

katejer Sep 11th, 2013 08:25 PM

Thanks for your help everyone! We’ve discussed your comments and are now undecided between two options.

We don’t think it will be warm enough to stay in beach towns in SC or Georgia in April, as we’d like to be able to swim. Hence the two options below.

Option 1.

Remove the beach component from the holiday. Our revised itinerary would be something like this.

Fly from NYC to Savannah (we’ll add a night in New York) and stay for 3 nights.

Charleston for 4 nights (we’ve dropped a night.

Asheville for 2 nights.

Somewhere near the Great Smoky Mountains for 2 nights.

Nashville for 3 nights.

Memphis for 2 nights.

Somewhere between Memphis and New Orleans for a night, perhaps Clarksdale, as suggested.

New Orleans for 5 nights (we’d like 4 full days, 2 for the Jazz Fest and 2 for exploring, so we’ve added a night).

This option leaves us with a spare night (we’ve already booked flights to the US). Any suggestions of where we could stay for this night?

Option 2.

Fly to Miami and stay somewhere in that area for 3 nights, still TBC.

Stay in one of the more northern areas of Florida that people have suggested for 2 nights.

Savannah for 2 nights (we’ve dropped a night in this itinerary).

Charleston for 4 nights (we’ve dropped a night).

Drive through Asheville and stop for lunch at Biltmore House.

Somewhere near the Great Smoky Mountains for 2 nights.

Nashville for 3 nights.

Memphis for 2 nights.

New Orleans for 5 nights.

Which option do you think is better? Can the itinerary still be improved? We’d love to include some relaxation time, however beaches aren’t essential if it means that we don’t get to see the other areas properly and will be driving a lot. I think the first option is about 20 hours’ driving and the second is about 26.

Thanks for your feedback!

Katzgar Sep 12th, 2013 02:50 AM

drive N of NOLA on the river road and visit/stay at an old plantation see gthe cemetaries, and the voodoo museum. bourbon street is an obvious to do. http://www.louisianatravel.com/river-road-plantations see some civil war sites... http://www.civilwartraveler.com/

look at things on a map, a N florida beach is very doable. use gmaps and you tube. in s florida you should see south beach for night scene, an airboat ride in the glades and key west.

Gretchen Sep 12th, 2013 03:09 AM

Still too much time in Savannah in the first option.
In #2 I don't quite understand the two days in north FL suggested--if it is the panhandle, too far west to then go to Savannah and I don't think it will be warm enough there to swim either (not sure about this). Maybe it is Brian's idea of the west coast of Florida which is nice.
You don't "drive by the Biltmore for lunch"--it's a real castle!!

Brian_in_Charlotte Sep 12th, 2013 03:55 AM

I think either would be fine, just depends on how much you want some guaranteed warm weather and beach time. Option 1 does mean less driving and gives you some extra time, but southern FL is really nice that time of year.

If you do choose option 2, I wouldn't do the second stop in northern FL, I'd want to be south of Orlando to insure warm enough weather to be worth the stop.

dwdvagamundo Sep 12th, 2013 06:34 AM

Given your interests and the time of year, I think option 2 is better. I still think you have too much time in Charleston. That's four full days--what do you plan to do with that much time?

Vicksburg would also be a good place to stay between Memphis and NO. There's a great American Civil War battlefield there--very important place of that war. One of the most pleasant places we've stayed is right across the highway from the Battlefield--Marriott Courtyard.

BKD Sep 12th, 2013 06:55 AM

I vote for option 2 with a couple of tweaks.

Stay in Miami not outside of it. I'd highly recommend South Beach.

I'm not sure about northern Florida for 2 nights. Why not just drive from Miami to Savannah? Unless you plan on playing some golf there's not much up there. You could stop on the way at Cape Canaveral to see the NASA facility to break up the trip but I think it's only about 6 hours or so.

I love Charleston but I'd probably cut that down a day to three nights and move one night to Asheville before heading to the mountains. You will probably spend a half a day at Biltmore (MUST SEE) and it's a pretty cool town with a lot of music and funky people. Definitely stay downtown. BTW, Highlands and Cashiers are very nice towns in the Smokey's.

Clarksdale is definitely on the quirky side and if you go stay at the Shack Up. You won't forget that place. If you go farther down Hwy 61 stay in Natchez, Mississippi. It's really beautiful-one of the oldest and best preserved towns on the Mississippi River. Lots of B&B's, some good bars and a lot of very genteel serious bourbon drinkers that live there. My wife is from there and I've been many times. It's not a normal place. Natchez folks live in their own world and that's a fact.

Take Hwy 61 from Natchez through St. Francisville, Lousiana. Beautiful plantation homes and a wonderful drive (until you get outside of Baton Rouge and then it's pretty ugly)

Jazz Fest is a great way to end the trip. It's the last weekend in April and the first weekend in May. The second weekend includes a Thursday as well. Book your rooms well in advance. Most places require a three day minimum. I'm happy to help you with specific suggestions in New Orleans (restaurants, nightclubs, sights, etc).

If there's anyway to get to the Gulf Coast of Alabama or just to the east near the Alabama Florida border, the beaches and water are exquisite. But maybe it's best to have a couple of unplanned days to be more spontaneous...


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