Why Costa Rica is considered the ´Switzerland of Latin America¨
Apr 16th, 2010, 05:46 PM
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Why Costa Rica is considered the ´Switzerland of Latin America¨
I arrived in San Jose last week, mounted my overpacked and overweight touring bicycle, and headed out for Granada, Nicaragua, via the Nicoya Peninsula. Alajuela, Punta Arenas, Nicoya, Liberia, Las Cruz, Rivera, and I made Granada yesterday. I´ve had a lot of time over the handlebars to observe, think and consider. So - why DO they call it the S.O.L.A.?
My opinions:
1) Let´s get the obvious one out of the way. It´s relatively safe and prosperous.
But also:
2) It´s full of cows;
3) Its food is bland, relative to that of its neighbors.
4) Trust me on this one, if you´ve only seen the place from the window of a tour bus; it´s full of f%cking mountains! If you´ve seen it from the back of a touring bicycle, that ain´t news to you.
5) Its people (forgive me if offended, I`m just observing and reporting) tend to have a condenscending attitude concerning the nationals of neighboring countries.
6) Nationals from other countries appear to be constantly trying to sneak in.
Any other compares and contrasts of which you can think? Input is invited. This could turn into fun.
Anyway - I´m starting a couple of weeks of language school in Granada on Sunday. I´ll let you all know how that goes. Off on bici for Catarina and the Laguna Apoyo (sp?) for a day trip tomorrow. This will, in the fullness of time, become a trip report. I hang out over in the Lounge mostly, and I need to earn my keep with Fodors!
My opinions:
1) Let´s get the obvious one out of the way. It´s relatively safe and prosperous.
But also:
2) It´s full of cows;
3) Its food is bland, relative to that of its neighbors.
4) Trust me on this one, if you´ve only seen the place from the window of a tour bus; it´s full of f%cking mountains! If you´ve seen it from the back of a touring bicycle, that ain´t news to you.
5) Its people (forgive me if offended, I`m just observing and reporting) tend to have a condenscending attitude concerning the nationals of neighboring countries.
6) Nationals from other countries appear to be constantly trying to sneak in.
Any other compares and contrasts of which you can think? Input is invited. This could turn into fun.
Anyway - I´m starting a couple of weeks of language school in Granada on Sunday. I´ll let you all know how that goes. Off on bici for Catarina and the Laguna Apoyo (sp?) for a day trip tomorrow. This will, in the fullness of time, become a trip report. I hang out over in the Lounge mostly, and I need to earn my keep with Fodors!
Apr 16th, 2010, 07:19 PM
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Let me just say - riding a bike in CR? Wow, whoa.
Looking forward to reading your report. Btw in Granada there is an awesome restaurant right across from Casa San Francisco, food bill was like $5.
Looking forward to reading your report. Btw in Granada there is an awesome restaurant right across from Casa San Francisco, food bill was like $5.
Apr 17th, 2010, 05:09 AM
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It is a pacifist country does not go to war...
Moutainous spine with vistas in some areas like this...
www.hotelbelmar.net
very similar to Switzerland but 3X cheaper!
Moutainous spine with vistas in some areas like this...
www.hotelbelmar.net
very similar to Switzerland but 3X cheaper!
Apr 17th, 2010, 06:48 PM
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Here´s everyone´s travel nightmare. While chatting with a couple of guards at the CR/Nicaragua border, a wad of gum I´d been chomping pulled out a dental bridge (can´t complain really, that bridge had been installed twenty years before, so I believe I´d certainly got my money´s worth out of it). But there I was, missing teeth, and not too sure as to whether I could eat. What will you do? What WILL you do?
What you do is this. My side trip to San Juan del Sur was forgotten, and I pedalled furiously to Rivas (35 kilometers, if I remember), where, it being the regional capital, I was pretty sure I could find a dentist quickly who could see me that day. I stopped along the way to buy some fluids (I think I´ve kept the Gatorade and bottled water industries of Central America in business entirely by myself this week - I´ve been spending more on those than on food) and enquired of la padrona, in my excrable Spanish, of the address of a competent dentista in Rivas. I figured, after a glance at her teeth, that she´d know one. And so she did, and gave me a name.
Tracked the fellow down - no mean feat, given that Rivas is a pretty good sized place, and in common with many Latin American cities has few posted street names - and got into his office. Hmmmm. Screams from the drill, but none from his clients. That´s a GOOD sign. Charming fellow, he seemed. Very little English, but then sign language goes pretty far in dentistry. I did notice that he wore neither mask nor gloves, and there was no sign that he washed his hands between mouths. Kinda scary. Medieval instruments. It was like a step back in time.
No one ever stepped into an Iron Maiden with less enthusiasm than me into that chair, but he pounded and scraped and drilled and ground and adjusted and glued for the better part of an hour, chatting aimiably in Spanish all the while, and at the end of the process I have a reasonably well-fitted and quite servicable bridge repair. Not bad for a sort of a shade-tree dentist. Oh, he charged me only 80 USD- not bad under the circumstances, I thought.
More later.
What you do is this. My side trip to San Juan del Sur was forgotten, and I pedalled furiously to Rivas (35 kilometers, if I remember), where, it being the regional capital, I was pretty sure I could find a dentist quickly who could see me that day. I stopped along the way to buy some fluids (I think I´ve kept the Gatorade and bottled water industries of Central America in business entirely by myself this week - I´ve been spending more on those than on food) and enquired of la padrona, in my excrable Spanish, of the address of a competent dentista in Rivas. I figured, after a glance at her teeth, that she´d know one. And so she did, and gave me a name.
Tracked the fellow down - no mean feat, given that Rivas is a pretty good sized place, and in common with many Latin American cities has few posted street names - and got into his office. Hmmmm. Screams from the drill, but none from his clients. That´s a GOOD sign. Charming fellow, he seemed. Very little English, but then sign language goes pretty far in dentistry. I did notice that he wore neither mask nor gloves, and there was no sign that he washed his hands between mouths. Kinda scary. Medieval instruments. It was like a step back in time.
No one ever stepped into an Iron Maiden with less enthusiasm than me into that chair, but he pounded and scraped and drilled and ground and adjusted and glued for the better part of an hour, chatting aimiably in Spanish all the while, and at the end of the process I have a reasonably well-fitted and quite servicable bridge repair. Not bad for a sort of a shade-tree dentist. Oh, he charged me only 80 USD- not bad under the circumstances, I thought.
More later.
Apr 17th, 2010, 07:07 PM
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Costa Rica does not have an army, consequently no military coups in recent hx, unlike the rest of Central America. This has also led to a high literacy rate, and fairly well educated population. All those cows means a fair amount of cheese making!
I would love to hear about your trip to Laguna de Apoyo. When I get to visit Nica, that is one place on my list.
I hope you have no further dental problems, but if you do you might consider going back to CR for a dentist. Many dentists there have been trained in the US. I believe there is a fair amount of dental tourism.
I would love to hear about your trip to Laguna de Apoyo. When I get to visit Nica, that is one place on my list.
I hope you have no further dental problems, but if you do you might consider going back to CR for a dentist. Many dentists there have been trained in the US. I believe there is a fair amount of dental tourism.
Apr 18th, 2010, 05:57 PM
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Thank you for your suggestion, Butterfly. I have another couple of weeks in Nicaragua, whereupon I´ll take another week to work my way back to San Jose and thence my flight home. I´ve asked my bride to make an appointment with my dentist in the US - I´m due for one anyway - to inspect the work that was done in Rivas.
I´m sorry to say that I found the Laguna de Apoyo to be disappointing, as seen from the Mirador at Caterina. The air was hazy and smoky that day, so the attraction neither looked nor smelled appealing. Whether the ambient smoke was a consequence of a wilderness fire or of the ubiquitious trash fires around, I don´t know. The Mirador area was full of kitschy tourist shops and horse trail rides, and the local tourists have a way of throwing their litter down the slope toward the lake. Unsightly to say the least. Local music groups were about, playing classic soft rock faves on traditional instruments (John Lennon and Simon & Garfunkel were on the playlist). Still, it was a nice interlude. I lay beneath a tree on the slope, scarfed a bag of assorted fruit I´d purchased from a roadside stand along the way, and took a brief siesta.
A fair amount of cheese making in Costa Rica, to be sure, but the only cheese I found in Costa Rican supermarkets was of the Velveeta or Kraft Singles varieties. Now, why is that, I wonder? Do they export the good stuff?
I´m sorry to say that I found the Laguna de Apoyo to be disappointing, as seen from the Mirador at Caterina. The air was hazy and smoky that day, so the attraction neither looked nor smelled appealing. Whether the ambient smoke was a consequence of a wilderness fire or of the ubiquitious trash fires around, I don´t know. The Mirador area was full of kitschy tourist shops and horse trail rides, and the local tourists have a way of throwing their litter down the slope toward the lake. Unsightly to say the least. Local music groups were about, playing classic soft rock faves on traditional instruments (John Lennon and Simon & Garfunkel were on the playlist). Still, it was a nice interlude. I lay beneath a tree on the slope, scarfed a bag of assorted fruit I´d purchased from a roadside stand along the way, and took a brief siesta.
A fair amount of cheese making in Costa Rica, to be sure, but the only cheese I found in Costa Rican supermarkets was of the Velveeta or Kraft Singles varieties. Now, why is that, I wonder? Do they export the good stuff?
Apr 19th, 2010, 02:56 PM
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We've always been able to buy different types of cheese in CR supermarkets. When I am studying and staying with my familia tica, I always make lasagna and have to go shopping for several different cheeses that my recipe calls for. Hmmm. No se.
suze--the phrase "the Switzerland of Central America" has been used to describe Costa Rica for as long as we've been interested and traveling back and forth from there (10 years). It is a common phrase in guide books, at least.
Redstater, good for you on the bicycling. We met a couple years ago who were seeing the country by mountain bike. Lots of admiration for that kind of stamina!
suze--the phrase "the Switzerland of Central America" has been used to describe Costa Rica for as long as we've been interested and traveling back and forth from there (10 years). It is a common phrase in guide books, at least.
Redstater, good for you on the bicycling. We met a couple years ago who were seeing the country by mountain bike. Lots of admiration for that kind of stamina!
Apr 20th, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Wish I´d had the gearing on the touring bike I´m using, changed over to that of a mountain bike before I came. The latter are generally geared much lower, and such would have made those hills around San Jose a LOT easier. Next time.
Hmmmm....perhaps I´m just going to the wrong supermarkets. I don´t think a lack of refrigeration has anything to do with it, because I can certainly get a cold beer about anywhere. On the topic, Costa Rica is about the only place in the world I´ve seen so far where folk put ice in their beer. Viva Imperial, btw! A good beer, although I gotta say I find the Nicaraguan Victoria brand more to my taste. They don´t put ice in it up here, either.
I just completed my third day of language school in Granada, and am off to find a quiet restaurant that will let me set up in a corner and study for a couple of hours. Four hours of one on one instruction with a good instructor can go pretty fast, but it´s pretty grueling, too. I´m not naturally talented at language acquisition and it doesn´t come easily. I´ve been putting in four to five hours a day of prep on top of the instruction time.
Hmmmm....perhaps I´m just going to the wrong supermarkets. I don´t think a lack of refrigeration has anything to do with it, because I can certainly get a cold beer about anywhere. On the topic, Costa Rica is about the only place in the world I´ve seen so far where folk put ice in their beer. Viva Imperial, btw! A good beer, although I gotta say I find the Nicaraguan Victoria brand more to my taste. They don´t put ice in it up here, either.
I just completed my third day of language school in Granada, and am off to find a quiet restaurant that will let me set up in a corner and study for a couple of hours. Four hours of one on one instruction with a good instructor can go pretty fast, but it´s pretty grueling, too. I´m not naturally talented at language acquisition and it doesn´t come easily. I´ve been putting in four to five hours a day of prep on top of the instruction time.
Apr 20th, 2010, 03:53 PM
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We found a variety of cheeses too. The most unique was Queso Palmito, which was a little like string cheese in texture. I really liked the yogurt, I think the brand was Dos Pinos.
I'm sorry to hear that about Laguna de Apoyo. It looks lovely in the pictures I have seen. Are you planning to go to Ometempe?
I'm sorry to hear that about Laguna de Apoyo. It looks lovely in the pictures I have seen. Are you planning to go to Ometempe?
Apr 21st, 2010, 06:52 PM
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Perhaps over the weekend, Butterfly. I understand that ferries from Granada run to Ometepe but twice a week, so I´d have to take the bus to Rivas, another to San Jorge, and catch a boat from there. I´m tied up in class until Friday noon. I´d like to go if it can be done.
Just changed to better quarters within my homestay family. Larger, better ventilated and (keyword) COOLER. It´s infernaly hot down here during the noon hours at this time of year. I wouldn´t be surprised if the local equivalent of the American phrase ´to sweat like a pig´ isn´t ´to sweat like a gringo´.
Just changed to better quarters within my homestay family. Larger, better ventilated and (keyword) COOLER. It´s infernaly hot down here during the noon hours at this time of year. I wouldn´t be surprised if the local equivalent of the American phrase ´to sweat like a pig´ isn´t ´to sweat like a gringo´.
Apr 22nd, 2010, 07:52 AM
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Switzerland of Latin America? Agree with all previous comments. In addition to the lack of army and their intervention in supporting peace in the region (one of their presidents won the Nobel Peace Prize), the people themselves are charming. The PEOPLE of CR are one of their greatest natural resources, IMO!!
Apr 22nd, 2010, 05:27 PM
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If I were to express that opinion around here, Snorkel, I might be lynched....or at least ostrasized for an hour or so. The Nicaraguenses with whom I´ve spoken (pretty much limited to the instructors at the language school, admittedly) consider the Ticos as arrogant, self-absorbed, and thoroughly unlikable. ´Course, those Ticos with whom I discussed the matter seem to think of the Nicos as dirty, primitive and brutish, and were appalled that I was considering a cycling trip up here.
Apr 23rd, 2010, 09:33 AM
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Yes, there is animosity between the two countries, much having to do with the 1980's history, but also having to do with the illegal immigration problem of Nicas into CR. Costa Ricans blame an increased crime problem on illegal immigration of both Nicas and Columbianos. Of course, the increase in crime also has a great deal to do with the increase in tourism. Additionally, the temperaments of the two peoples are just not the same since their experiences and histories as countries are vastly different.
Costa Ricans are typically quite reserved. They consider the Nicas to be a bit too agressive. They probably do tend to consider themselves superior in that way because they value a quiet, conservative, and reserved demeanor, and whether it is a fact or not, they are bothered by the lack of those qualities in others. I believe they feel equally uncomfortable around loud, noisy, obnoxious people from any country. It just isn't their way as a culture, although their culture is gradually being affected by the influx of visitors into the country. In the midst of all that, there is probably some misunderstandings between the two.
Gee, it happens in our own families. It isn't surprising that entire countries have these rifts.
Costa Ricans are typically quite reserved. They consider the Nicas to be a bit too agressive. They probably do tend to consider themselves superior in that way because they value a quiet, conservative, and reserved demeanor, and whether it is a fact or not, they are bothered by the lack of those qualities in others. I believe they feel equally uncomfortable around loud, noisy, obnoxious people from any country. It just isn't their way as a culture, although their culture is gradually being affected by the influx of visitors into the country. In the midst of all that, there is probably some misunderstandings between the two.
Gee, it happens in our own families. It isn't surprising that entire countries have these rifts.
Apr 24th, 2010, 07:04 AM
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Discovered a new contender for my list of Ultimate Ten Favorite Dishes...the burritos pupesaws at the Restaurante Pupesaw, a Salvadoran place on the Calle Comercio, a little SW of the Parque Centrale, Granada. Perfection, a rhapsody of flavor, and all for a little less than $2. If planning a visit here, put this one on your list!
Apr 28th, 2010, 11:58 AM
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Taking the Lake Nicaragua ferry tomorrow from Granada to San Carlos, and thence to Los Chiles, Costa Rica. Cycling back to San Jose, & my flight home from there; about four days in the saddle, I estimate, with ample provision for a comfortable midday siesta. A 1st class boat on the ferry is indicated; a la Titanic, they have access to life jackets, unlike the rabble in steerage. Besides, it´ll be nice to have access to some place to sling my hammock, given that, I´m told, it´s a 14 hour overnight ride. One hopes that the reports that the Lake Nicaragua sharks have been mostly fished out are true, and that the weather will behave itself. The lake can get rough, & I am no sailor.
I´ll let you all know how it goes.
I´ll let you all know how it goes.
