artiejay

Just got back from a wonderful 9 day spring break trip to Costa Rica. My wife, daughter, and I enjoyed our 2010 trip so much we did a repeat, spending time at Savegre lodge, El Toucanet and La Quinta lodge in Sarapiqui. After a early morning flight into SJO we breezed through the new immigration area and were quickly picked up by Tricolor to get our rental. We got a Nissan X-trail that was in pretty rough shape so I took a long time documenting all the dents, scratches, and dings and was very glad I did as they really went over it upon return- thank goodness no extra charges. After a 2 hour drive we pulled into Savegre Lodge and checked in . There was a problem with our reservation and were told we would need to stay 1 night in a standard room until our suite was available.They offered a 20% reduced rate and 3 free breakfasts for our inconvenience so we agreed. The room was OK but had paper thin walls and you could hear every word from the room next door- not a good nights sleep.We were very glad to change rooms the next day.

Activities: We hiked, birded and generally relaxed, enjoying the cool mountain air and cold imperials! They have built a new trout hatchery on the waterfall trail- what a shame, it really ruined a beautiful area and I can't imagine that the waste from 20,000 trout will benefit the Savegre river.Made a 1/2 day trip to La Georgina restaurant to hike the paramo which was very difficult for a flat lander like me, at over 7,500 ft. elevation.

Dining: The lodge has a regular buffet but they don't vary the selection much so we ate at other local places- really enjoyed Mirian's- a small place a bit up the hill from Savegre and not far from Dantica lodge. Great chicken and trout (trucha) and quite a bargain at around $6.50 per person- all meals served with homemade blackberry juice. We also ate at a new place just up the hill from the lodge, Kahawa cafe- just so-so, hopefully they will improve over time as it is a nice place with a great view of the river.

Weather: Fantastic- not a drop of rain and clear blue skies every day.

After 3 nights we headed 30Km. north to El Toucanet lodge in Copey de Dota for a too short 1 night stay. After a brutal rainy season they are going through a very dry, dry season and it shows- alot of brown and not so much green. Gary and Edna are wonderful hosts- wish we would have had more time!

Pictures can be seen at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1077454...XX69TV4tSVnwE#

If you don't like birds, bugs, and blooms they may not be for you!
Next stop Sarapiqui-

tully

WOW, what incredible photos, and I'm not even into birds! Really great shots. What kind of camera?

colibri

Loved your photos - some great shots of the hummingbirds and quetzals. I think Savegre is the easiest place to see quetzals, but I'm glad it's so far off the beaten path!

Thx. for sharing, looks like a wonderful trip.

Percy

Great pictures of everything !

Thanks for posting.

rmbpalmer

Wow ..your pictures are incredible ! Thanks for the info about this area as we are visiting in June.I was just looking at the website for El Toucanet yesterday and it looks very nice.Can't wait for the rest of the report.

rmbpalmer

I just read your trip report from last year and hope its ok to ask a question here about it. You mentioned you stayed at La Quinta but visited La Selva for 3 straight days.Did you have to hire a guide each time and if so did you arrange that before hand or just pick up a guide when you got there.I am trying to decide between staying at the station or staying elsewhere as my husband is a nonbirder.

artiejay

tully- Used a combo of cameras as we all enjoy photography:

Sony DSC-H10 point & shoot

Canon XT, XTi, and 50D

rmbpalmer-Last year we got a guide for 1/2 day and then returned on the other days to just bird @ the road into the station and around the cafateria and reception. This year I did not use a guide and just stayed around the front. You can't cross the bridge into the reserve without a guide unless you are staying there.You have to make reservations at least a day ahead for a guided tour- the guides are available at the station. I would recommend a guide for at least 1/2 day.For photography I found the rainforest to be too thick and dark for good pics. so I just stayed at the entrance for more light. They have no AC at La Selva and it gets very hot and humid so that is a consideration.

Thanks to all for the kind comments more pics. coming.

volcanogirl

Your pictures are just beautiful. You really could sell them - a coffee table book should be in the works!

artiejay

After the morning birding tour with Gary(where we watched a pair of Quetzals excavate a nest) we had a hearty breakfast, said our goodbye's and departed El Toucanet for Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. I somehow missed my turn to get on Hwy 39 which bypasses San Jose and soon found myself in the heart of downtown-for the first time in 6 trips I got "directionally challenged"(not lost mind you)- Ay Caramba what a mess! After some cursing, a little circling and alot more cursing I located calle 3 which leads to Hwy 32 and the caribbean coast-WHEW! The drive takes you through a cool tunnel and Braulio Carrillo park with spectacular views of several "resting volcanoes" and steep mountains.The drive to the Sarapiqui region takes about an hour and forty five minutes from San Jose.We stayed at La Quinta lodge which is actually in Chilamate about 15 minutes west of town.The lodge and grounds are nice, the staff friendly and most importanly they have good AC!The lodge will arrange any tours you might be interested in and has a small trail system behind it that holds alot of birds.

Activities:
Sarapiqui River tour:A 2 hour boat tour of the river-at $25 per person a great deal. Saw crocs.,caimen,howler monkeys,and alot of birds.
La Selva park: Visited twice staying along the entrance road and reception area where fruiting trees attract alot of wildlife.You have to go past a guard now at the turnoff-just give him your name and tell them you are going to reception and you can pass.
Tirimbina reserve: Has several options for tours-we only hiked the trails which were great going through some thick,dark rainforest. A guide is $22 per person for a tour-$15 to hike the trails by yourself.You go across a looong hanging bridge to enter the park that crosses the Sarapiqui river-great view!Didn't see alot of birds but did see peccaries,monkeys,some really cool frogs and insects and best of all 2 hog nosed pit vipers which were quite spectacular.
Made the drive around the loop towards Colonial Virgen de Soccoro to bird a trail along the way but was stopped by a road repair crew fixing earthquake damage from 2 years ago -foiled!Still a nice drive however.
Dining:
La Quinta offers a buffet with plenty to choose from and several times a week the owner does a great BBQ-tenderloin, chicken and a really good local sausage are the main courses with soup, salad and other veg. dishes provided.
La Casona Restuarant at hotel Ara Ambigua(by the way thanks to RAC for the tip last year) Really good main menu with a local flair and fantastic pizza-really good.They also have a bird feeder that attracts alot of tanagers, honeycreepers and oropendolas-quite entertaining while you dine.

Weather: Spot on- Last year it rained every day sometimes 2-3 times a day- this year no rain, sunny and hot!

Alas it all ended way to soon- time to start planning next years trip!!!

Pics. can be seen at: https://picasaweb.google.com/1077454...Mjp_LaJ14LmCQ#

Volcanogirl - You do the narrative,I'll provide the pictures and we'll call it "Volcanogirls Guide to Costa Rica"-Deal?? LOL

volcanogirl

That's a deal, artie! Your pictures are so wonderful. It almost looks like the animals pose for you.

Of all the places you stayed, which did you like most if you had to pick only one? I'd love to combine a birding location with the Arenal area, but have a hard time choosing a spot.

shillmac

Just WOW! I've seen your photos before, but what a joy to look at these! Love the one of Katie and the frog--a little awkward. Definitely froggie is out of his comfort zone. Fabulous bird photos! FABULOUS! Thanks so much for sharing.

artiejay

Volcanogirl- Would probably pick the Sarapiqui area- you have more choices for activities other than birding and will see more wildlife(generally!) other than birds.

Shillmac- Actually a little bit of a story behind the Cane toad-We were driving back to La Quinta after pizza one night and we saw him,her,it?,hopping down the middle of hwy 4 about to become a very flat cane toad-my daughter insisted I turn around,which we did,and risking life and limb from traffic scooped it up and took it back to the lodge and released it out back-so the little bugger better be thankful!

volcanogirl

We rafted the Sarapiqui and really liked it. I was surprised to see the pic of the croc since I swam in that river - lol. Was that in the Sarapiqui?

atdahl

Great trip report and photos! As a fellow photo enthusiast, I am jealous of the great variety of wildlife that you were able to photograph on this trip. Every time we go to Costa Rica, we head straight to the Osa. I think we need to branch out on a future trip and follow your itineray.

artiejay

VG- Yep- The 8-9ft croc was in the Sarapiqui about a 1/2 mile from downtown and about 200yds. from where some kids were swimming!

atdahl- If you haven't visited the highlands you need to check them out.Nice and cool at night -75ish during the day, lo humidity-just great! We have definitely learned over several trips to appreciate the small things going on around us and enjoy going out looking for lizards, frogs, geckos,and other assorted creepy crawlies as much as anything-even my wife and daughter like to go out "bug huntin" at night with our little flashlights.

RAC

Amazing pictures and a great report! We definitely have to hit the highlands on our next trip to CR.

Thanks for this!

volcanogirl

Wow, then I'll count myself lucky to have all my limbs. I can't wait to show your pictures to my husband. He'll love them too.