Quick CR Trip Report
May 4th, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Quick CR Trip Report
Thanks to everyone who helped us plan our trip to Manuel Antonio. We had a great time staying at Tulemar. We didn't really love Manuel Antonio before, but staying at Tulemar gave us a different perspective, and we ended up being converts. We've done a lot of sweaty hiking, ziplining, rafting, and waterfall rappeling on past trips, so for this one we decided to really just relax, enjoy some beach time, see some wildlife, drink a few Imperials, and do some fun tours.
May 4th, 2013, 09:05 AM
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I booked our trip several months ahead and really wanted to stay in Lower Mot Mot since it always gets such great reviews, but even booking that far in advance I could only get it for two nights! We wanted a room with a balcony, but Tulemar was so booked that we ended up getting a bungalow with no balcony for a couple of other nights and also staying in Lower Casa Panorama. Since all of the villas/bungalows are individually owned, we booked with three different people - Mot Mot wanted direct payment to the owner via a phone call, someone else wanted a credit card, and the other wanted us to pay via PayPal. I ended up being grateful to be able to reserve anything at all!
All of the rooms were nice but completely different - Mot Mot is tiny but recently updated and really nice; the bungalow was bigger but had sort of an 80s vibe to it and was a little more dated; Casa Panorama was big, swanky, and modern. Overall our trip felt a little bit like the movie Groundhog Day since we spent so much time packing and starting over in a new spot, but we had fun exploring each new place and seeing how they were so different.
All of the rooms were nice but completely different - Mot Mot is tiny but recently updated and really nice; the bungalow was bigger but had sort of an 80s vibe to it and was a little more dated; Casa Panorama was big, swanky, and modern. Overall our trip felt a little bit like the movie Groundhog Day since we spent so much time packing and starting over in a new spot, but we had fun exploring each new place and seeing how they were so different.
May 4th, 2013, 10:03 AM
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First day - We had a really smooth flight to Costa Rica. Took a little over three hours, and we had a direct flight so it was easy. We really lucked out at customs and immigration too. I always dread that part, but we literally only had one person in line in front of us; we breezed through there and got our luggage in only 15 minutes - a new record for us I think!
I had arranged for transportation through Tulemar, and our driver Wendell was there waiting for us holding a sign with our name on it. Well, actually not our name, but something sort of similar to our name with about 50% of the letters being the same. We asked and yes he was there for us! Just as we stepped outside, the dark clouds erupted and it started to pour. We dashed to the parked van and soon were on our way. Welcome to the start of rainy season!
Wendell was nice and friendly. He asked if there were any stops we'd like to make, and we told him that we'd love to stop at the Rio Tarcoles to see the huge crocs. If you haven't been there before, this is a really cool way to break up the drive, stretch your legs, use the restroom, and best of all see huge crocodiles that hang out under the bridge. There's a little area where you can park and then just walk out onto the bridge and peer down. When we stopped, a man asked us if we'd like to buy a smoothie. He had all kinds of fresh fruit available - mangoes, pineapples, banana. I got the pineapple one, and I highly recommend! There's just something about the fruit in Costa Rica that tastes so much better than ours. It's pretty hot and steamy out after the rain, and the smoothie hits the spot. Now I'm starting to feel the Pura Vida!
My husband and I walk out on the side of the bridge. You have to be kind of careful because traffic is whizzing by on the highway. We peer over the edge, and there they are - 15 or so enormous crocodiles just below us. The river is muddy and swampy looking, and the crocs will just appear out of nowhere. Some of them are 17-18 footers. I ask if anyone ever swims in the river, and they tell me no because it's too dirty! Good reason! We get some good photos, and soon we're back on our way. We have plans to do a crocodile tour later in the trip to get a closer look.
All in all the drive to Manuel Antonio takes us about 2 hours and 45 minutes including our stop at the river. I'm surprised at what good shape the road is in. They've repaved it after our last trip which was extremely bumpy and full of potholes. You can tell you're getting close when you start seeing all the palm plantations, row after row of huge palm trees growing in symmetrical lines. If anyone is hesitant about making the drive, don't be, it's pretty easy; we just like to relax and enjoy the view and don't really feel a car is needed in MA unless you want to make some day trips.
We arrive at Tulemar just as the on again off again rain stops. We give our name to the security guard, and he lets us in. As we pull up and Wendell parks the car, our concierge Bill is there waiting for us. We've never had a concierge before. We're pretty independent travelers and like to book all of our own tours, but wow, Bill was really helpful and full of good info. and ready to help make our trip as smooth as possible.
The Tulemar property is beautiful, built on a steep hill with lush landscaping and cement pathways and stairs that cut through the property. Each villa and bungalow is different, but they all offer a real sense of privacy and some great views of the ocean. I think we're going to like it here!
I had arranged for transportation through Tulemar, and our driver Wendell was there waiting for us holding a sign with our name on it. Well, actually not our name, but something sort of similar to our name with about 50% of the letters being the same. We asked and yes he was there for us! Just as we stepped outside, the dark clouds erupted and it started to pour. We dashed to the parked van and soon were on our way. Welcome to the start of rainy season!
Wendell was nice and friendly. He asked if there were any stops we'd like to make, and we told him that we'd love to stop at the Rio Tarcoles to see the huge crocs. If you haven't been there before, this is a really cool way to break up the drive, stretch your legs, use the restroom, and best of all see huge crocodiles that hang out under the bridge. There's a little area where you can park and then just walk out onto the bridge and peer down. When we stopped, a man asked us if we'd like to buy a smoothie. He had all kinds of fresh fruit available - mangoes, pineapples, banana. I got the pineapple one, and I highly recommend! There's just something about the fruit in Costa Rica that tastes so much better than ours. It's pretty hot and steamy out after the rain, and the smoothie hits the spot. Now I'm starting to feel the Pura Vida!
My husband and I walk out on the side of the bridge. You have to be kind of careful because traffic is whizzing by on the highway. We peer over the edge, and there they are - 15 or so enormous crocodiles just below us. The river is muddy and swampy looking, and the crocs will just appear out of nowhere. Some of them are 17-18 footers. I ask if anyone ever swims in the river, and they tell me no because it's too dirty! Good reason! We get some good photos, and soon we're back on our way. We have plans to do a crocodile tour later in the trip to get a closer look.
All in all the drive to Manuel Antonio takes us about 2 hours and 45 minutes including our stop at the river. I'm surprised at what good shape the road is in. They've repaved it after our last trip which was extremely bumpy and full of potholes. You can tell you're getting close when you start seeing all the palm plantations, row after row of huge palm trees growing in symmetrical lines. If anyone is hesitant about making the drive, don't be, it's pretty easy; we just like to relax and enjoy the view and don't really feel a car is needed in MA unless you want to make some day trips.
We arrive at Tulemar just as the on again off again rain stops. We give our name to the security guard, and he lets us in. As we pull up and Wendell parks the car, our concierge Bill is there waiting for us. We've never had a concierge before. We're pretty independent travelers and like to book all of our own tours, but wow, Bill was really helpful and full of good info. and ready to help make our trip as smooth as possible.
The Tulemar property is beautiful, built on a steep hill with lush landscaping and cement pathways and stairs that cut through the property. Each villa and bungalow is different, but they all offer a real sense of privacy and some great views of the ocean. I think we're going to like it here!
May 4th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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So Bill helps us with our luggage, and we make the trek down to Mot Mot. It's all paved steps and although it's steep, it seems pretty easy compared to some of the other places where we've stayed. Mot Mot consists of both an upper and lower villa. The upper villa is big and more suited for a big family. Lower Mot Mot, sometimes called the Mot Mot Hideaway, is small but really comfortable.
The first thing you see when you get to the bottom of the steps is a huge beautiful balcony with an outdoor kitchen, a hammock, and some comfy patio furniture. The outdoor kitchen is pretty fancy with a gas grill, a small refrigerator, and even a microwave and a blender. shillmac, you didn't steer us wrong!
This is nicer than our kitchen at home.
Bill takes us inside, and it's hot, but he already has the ac on to get things cooled down. The bedroom is just big enough for a king-sized bed, a couple night stands, and a small t.v. mounted on the wall. Perfect for us. The only other indoor room is the bathroom. It has all new fixtures, a double sink, a big glassed in shower, and all sorts of nice details like a magnifying makeup mirror - which I take one look at and know I want nothing to do with in Costa Rica - lol.
Before our trip, the concierge had sent us an e-mail asking if we wanted any groceries. They'll buy them for you for the cost of the groceries plus a $20 charge. I was surprised at some of the options on the list, including Pop Tarts and hot dogs! We ended up getting milk, fresh fruit like bananas and pineapple, avocado, onion, and fresh limes to make guacamole, tortilla chips, salsa, and the hot dogs because we though that would be easy to make and save us some $ on eating out. This night, however, is getting late, so Bill hands us the Mot Mot survival binder and tells us we can have something delivered if we'd like. We opt for a pepperoni pizza and call Victoria's to have it delivered.
The survival binder is full of everything you'd want to know about the property and the area. It gives a phone number you can call for the on property shuttles, lists numerous restaurants including several you can walk to, and also gives a list of good local tours in the area. As we look it over, the pizza arrives - hot and fresh and really good. We crack open a couple of Imperials and eat the pizza out on our balcony as we watch the last of the sunset. As we head off to bed, I notice that a resident bat is hanging right over our door. Pura Vida!
The first thing you see when you get to the bottom of the steps is a huge beautiful balcony with an outdoor kitchen, a hammock, and some comfy patio furniture. The outdoor kitchen is pretty fancy with a gas grill, a small refrigerator, and even a microwave and a blender. shillmac, you didn't steer us wrong!
This is nicer than our kitchen at home.Bill takes us inside, and it's hot, but he already has the ac on to get things cooled down. The bedroom is just big enough for a king-sized bed, a couple night stands, and a small t.v. mounted on the wall. Perfect for us. The only other indoor room is the bathroom. It has all new fixtures, a double sink, a big glassed in shower, and all sorts of nice details like a magnifying makeup mirror - which I take one look at and know I want nothing to do with in Costa Rica - lol.
Before our trip, the concierge had sent us an e-mail asking if we wanted any groceries. They'll buy them for you for the cost of the groceries plus a $20 charge. I was surprised at some of the options on the list, including Pop Tarts and hot dogs! We ended up getting milk, fresh fruit like bananas and pineapple, avocado, onion, and fresh limes to make guacamole, tortilla chips, salsa, and the hot dogs because we though that would be easy to make and save us some $ on eating out. This night, however, is getting late, so Bill hands us the Mot Mot survival binder and tells us we can have something delivered if we'd like. We opt for a pepperoni pizza and call Victoria's to have it delivered.
The survival binder is full of everything you'd want to know about the property and the area. It gives a phone number you can call for the on property shuttles, lists numerous restaurants including several you can walk to, and also gives a list of good local tours in the area. As we look it over, the pizza arrives - hot and fresh and really good. We crack open a couple of Imperials and eat the pizza out on our balcony as we watch the last of the sunset. As we head off to bed, I notice that a resident bat is hanging right over our door. Pura Vida!
May 4th, 2013, 02:35 PM
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The next morning we wake up bright and early to the sounds of the howlers roaring. At 6:00 a.m. the sun is already bright and shining. I'm hoping for good weather since today is the day we're going to tour the national park. After getting a lot of recommendations, we have a tour booked with Manuel Antonio Expeditions and Juan Brenes as our guide. Thanks to everyone who recommended him! I really think a good guide makes a huge difference.
We both have cereal and a banana for breakfast - it sure is convenient to have that little refrigerator. We eat out on the balcony, and after breakfast we hike up to the little pickup spot on the road above Mot Mot. Juan and his friend Pablo arrive in a nice air-conditioned van to pick us up. There are already a few people in the van ready for the tour. When Pablo talks to us, he sounds like he has a Canadian accent. It turns out he's from Canada and that he moved to CR years ago and became a guide. He met his wife and ended up settling in Costa Rica. Manuel Antonio in particular seems to have a lot of Americans and Canadians living in the area. I guess because it's fairly developed with a lot of job opportunities and pretty much everyone here speaks English. It's also a lot pricier than some of the other places we've visited, and Juan tells us that only tourists can really afford that area, and that most Costa Ricans live in nearby Quepos.
My husband and I have opted to have a private tour with Juan. This is much better than the last tour we did where we shared a scope with a group of 10-15 people. Makes it easier to spot things, and Juan also offers to take pictures through the scope for us. He's a pretty interesting guy. He started washing dishes in a hotel at age 12 and now owns his own company with other employees, and has been successful enough to buy the van, a boat, and some great spotting equipment. Go Juan! He told us that in CR, children are expected to help take care of their parents, and he's been giving his parents 50% of his paycheck ever since.
There's been an interesting change at the park since the last time I was there. The entrance is now the exit and vice versa. Juan pays our entry and gets our tickets. The ten dollar cost is included in the tour fee. As soon as we enter the park, he spots a Jesus Christ lizard; these are so cool because they're able to run across the top of the water and hence the name. We would have walked right by it. As we watch, it skitters across the top of the pond. Next we see an iguana, another thing we would have passed by! The day goes on like this. Honestly I think the only thing we would have seen is capuchin monkeys if it weren't for our guide. But with his help, we also end up seeing both squirrel and howler monkeys, a sloth, raccoons, hawks, orange chinned parakeets, beautiful dragonflies, grasshoppers, bats, and hummingbirds, and coolest of all to me, a bright yellow eyelash pit viper coiled up in a tree. That's one we've never seen before! I had forgotten how much wildlife is in this area. When we see the viper, Juan says to a a nearby little boy, "Hey are you afraid of snakes?" And he says, "No way." Then Juan offers to hoist him up in the tree for a closer look. The boys eyes get big, and he's says no thanks! I didn't really realize that these snakes were arboreal, but he tells us that they live most of their lives in the trees feeding on small birds and lizards. Glad to know they aren't on the ground!
At this point in the tour we come to the beach, and Juan offers us some cold juice, some awesome fresh pineapple, and some little coconut cookies. He tells us that they're trying to pass a law to keep people from bringing food into the park because so many of them feed the monkeys. As we're eating, so many monkeys come by that we can't even count them. One is sitting on top for the Parque Manuel Antonio sign and looks like an official greeter!
If you want to, you can leave the tour here and swim at the beautiful beach inside the park. Since we have the beach right at our hotel, we opt to continue on with the tour.
We both have cereal and a banana for breakfast - it sure is convenient to have that little refrigerator. We eat out on the balcony, and after breakfast we hike up to the little pickup spot on the road above Mot Mot. Juan and his friend Pablo arrive in a nice air-conditioned van to pick us up. There are already a few people in the van ready for the tour. When Pablo talks to us, he sounds like he has a Canadian accent. It turns out he's from Canada and that he moved to CR years ago and became a guide. He met his wife and ended up settling in Costa Rica. Manuel Antonio in particular seems to have a lot of Americans and Canadians living in the area. I guess because it's fairly developed with a lot of job opportunities and pretty much everyone here speaks English. It's also a lot pricier than some of the other places we've visited, and Juan tells us that only tourists can really afford that area, and that most Costa Ricans live in nearby Quepos.
My husband and I have opted to have a private tour with Juan. This is much better than the last tour we did where we shared a scope with a group of 10-15 people. Makes it easier to spot things, and Juan also offers to take pictures through the scope for us. He's a pretty interesting guy. He started washing dishes in a hotel at age 12 and now owns his own company with other employees, and has been successful enough to buy the van, a boat, and some great spotting equipment. Go Juan! He told us that in CR, children are expected to help take care of their parents, and he's been giving his parents 50% of his paycheck ever since.
There's been an interesting change at the park since the last time I was there. The entrance is now the exit and vice versa. Juan pays our entry and gets our tickets. The ten dollar cost is included in the tour fee. As soon as we enter the park, he spots a Jesus Christ lizard; these are so cool because they're able to run across the top of the water and hence the name. We would have walked right by it. As we watch, it skitters across the top of the pond. Next we see an iguana, another thing we would have passed by! The day goes on like this. Honestly I think the only thing we would have seen is capuchin monkeys if it weren't for our guide. But with his help, we also end up seeing both squirrel and howler monkeys, a sloth, raccoons, hawks, orange chinned parakeets, beautiful dragonflies, grasshoppers, bats, and hummingbirds, and coolest of all to me, a bright yellow eyelash pit viper coiled up in a tree. That's one we've never seen before! I had forgotten how much wildlife is in this area. When we see the viper, Juan says to a a nearby little boy, "Hey are you afraid of snakes?" And he says, "No way." Then Juan offers to hoist him up in the tree for a closer look. The boys eyes get big, and he's says no thanks! I didn't really realize that these snakes were arboreal, but he tells us that they live most of their lives in the trees feeding on small birds and lizards. Glad to know they aren't on the ground!
At this point in the tour we come to the beach, and Juan offers us some cold juice, some awesome fresh pineapple, and some little coconut cookies. He tells us that they're trying to pass a law to keep people from bringing food into the park because so many of them feed the monkeys. As we're eating, so many monkeys come by that we can't even count them. One is sitting on top for the Parque Manuel Antonio sign and looks like an official greeter!
If you want to, you can leave the tour here and swim at the beautiful beach inside the park. Since we have the beach right at our hotel, we opt to continue on with the tour.
May 4th, 2013, 08:01 PM
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Thanks, suz - I hope you have a great time! I wish I were going back.
As we're watching the monkeys, two of them start getting "romantic", and Juan comments that that's the monkey you want to be - the alpha male because he's the one that gets all the ladies. He said that literally only the one dominant male is allowed to mate. We thought that was so bizarre and not too good for the gene pool, but he said it's actually really the opposite because the biggest, healthiest genes are the only ones passed on, and the hope is that some of that offspring will cross paths with another troop.
Despite the "Do not feed the monkeys" sign we see people give them cheese puffs and carrot sticks, and the monkeys happily accept grabbing it out of their hands.
Our tour continues with us strolling along the beach, and it's so pretty here. A lot of the CR beaches aren't much to look at it, but here it's gorgeous with beautiful sand and water and lush greenery. A little piece of paradise! Then we see a lone monkey, kind of off by himself, looking tired and old. Juan tells us that that's the former alpha male who is now too old who has given his place to a younger dominant male. And he tells us that is was done in a "respectful manner." The monkey doesn't look too happy about it though.
Finally we come to the end of the park, and Juan drives us back to Tulemar. We'll see him again because we're all set up to do the Damas mangrove tour with him the next day. He asks where I heard about him, and I tell him on the boards and that I'm volcanogirl, and he says that he's read my posts and wants to give me a hug! It's funny how people start to feel that they know each other after posting on these boards for so many years!
We get back to Mot Mot and change into our bathing suits and head down to the beach. We're anxious to check it out, and it does not disappoint. It's really nice and not crowded at all, plus they have awesome free kayaks and boogie boards, also lounge chairs and towels. We grab a couple of boogie boards and head out. The waves are huge, and we're able to get a lot of great momentum and ride them into the shore. They tell us that the surf is really up right now. I've read so many reviews that talk about the calm beach there, but I guess it really depends on the tides and the weather systems. Some of the waves even crash over our heads. We spend a few hours there, and then the sky starts to darken and the thunder begins. They say it's been a very dry year, so they're all anxious to get some rain. We head back up and wait for the shuttle to take us back to our room. This is such a great service because it would be a steep hike to go all the way back to Mot Mot at the top of the property. The vans run pretty regularly, but if you need them to come, you can just call for a pickup. The service at Tulemar is just overall fantastic, and I'd highly recommend staying there if you're at all interested in the MA area.
We decide to make our hot dogs for dinner, and my husband is perplexed to find each one individually wrapped! As he's grilling those, I get the avocado, chop the onion, throw in a squeeze of fresh lime juice and make some darn good guacamole. The kitchen is stocked with all kinds of fancy spices - Himalayan pink sea salt and some other things I haven't seen before. Much more exotic than I was expecting! We break out the tortilla chips and the Imperials and sit down to enjoy our fancy dinner - lol. We decide to eat out on the balcony again, wanting to enjoy it as much as possible since we'll be moving to a bungalow the next day. As we turn in for bed, we notice that our little bat has made a friend and now the two of them are hanging in the corner together. They don't bother us at all, but they eat a fig every night from a nearby tree and leave a little fig bomb underneath the area where they roost. Bill tells us that the housekeeping staff is tired of cleaning it up and wants the bats to move elsewhere. I think they're good for keeping mosquitoes away.
We set the alarm to go off at 5:30, knowing that we'll probably be awakened by the sun or the howlers early the next day anyway. Our mangrove tour pickup is at 6:30 a.m. Ugh, but we're still excited because we've heard that there's a lot of wildlife to be seen. I have my hopes pinned on seeing a silky anteater. People on the board have talked about them, but we've never seen one before. If you've never seen one go to YouTube - they're about the cutest thing you've ever seen. We manage to stay up until 10:00 p.m., a pretty big accomplishment in Costa Rica!
As we're watching the monkeys, two of them start getting "romantic", and Juan comments that that's the monkey you want to be - the alpha male because he's the one that gets all the ladies. He said that literally only the one dominant male is allowed to mate. We thought that was so bizarre and not too good for the gene pool, but he said it's actually really the opposite because the biggest, healthiest genes are the only ones passed on, and the hope is that some of that offspring will cross paths with another troop.
Despite the "Do not feed the monkeys" sign we see people give them cheese puffs and carrot sticks, and the monkeys happily accept grabbing it out of their hands.
Our tour continues with us strolling along the beach, and it's so pretty here. A lot of the CR beaches aren't much to look at it, but here it's gorgeous with beautiful sand and water and lush greenery. A little piece of paradise! Then we see a lone monkey, kind of off by himself, looking tired and old. Juan tells us that that's the former alpha male who is now too old who has given his place to a younger dominant male. And he tells us that is was done in a "respectful manner." The monkey doesn't look too happy about it though.
Finally we come to the end of the park, and Juan drives us back to Tulemar. We'll see him again because we're all set up to do the Damas mangrove tour with him the next day. He asks where I heard about him, and I tell him on the boards and that I'm volcanogirl, and he says that he's read my posts and wants to give me a hug! It's funny how people start to feel that they know each other after posting on these boards for so many years!
We get back to Mot Mot and change into our bathing suits and head down to the beach. We're anxious to check it out, and it does not disappoint. It's really nice and not crowded at all, plus they have awesome free kayaks and boogie boards, also lounge chairs and towels. We grab a couple of boogie boards and head out. The waves are huge, and we're able to get a lot of great momentum and ride them into the shore. They tell us that the surf is really up right now. I've read so many reviews that talk about the calm beach there, but I guess it really depends on the tides and the weather systems. Some of the waves even crash over our heads. We spend a few hours there, and then the sky starts to darken and the thunder begins. They say it's been a very dry year, so they're all anxious to get some rain. We head back up and wait for the shuttle to take us back to our room. This is such a great service because it would be a steep hike to go all the way back to Mot Mot at the top of the property. The vans run pretty regularly, but if you need them to come, you can just call for a pickup. The service at Tulemar is just overall fantastic, and I'd highly recommend staying there if you're at all interested in the MA area.
We decide to make our hot dogs for dinner, and my husband is perplexed to find each one individually wrapped! As he's grilling those, I get the avocado, chop the onion, throw in a squeeze of fresh lime juice and make some darn good guacamole. The kitchen is stocked with all kinds of fancy spices - Himalayan pink sea salt and some other things I haven't seen before. Much more exotic than I was expecting! We break out the tortilla chips and the Imperials and sit down to enjoy our fancy dinner - lol. We decide to eat out on the balcony again, wanting to enjoy it as much as possible since we'll be moving to a bungalow the next day. As we turn in for bed, we notice that our little bat has made a friend and now the two of them are hanging in the corner together. They don't bother us at all, but they eat a fig every night from a nearby tree and leave a little fig bomb underneath the area where they roost. Bill tells us that the housekeeping staff is tired of cleaning it up and wants the bats to move elsewhere. I think they're good for keeping mosquitoes away.
We set the alarm to go off at 5:30, knowing that we'll probably be awakened by the sun or the howlers early the next day anyway. Our mangrove tour pickup is at 6:30 a.m. Ugh, but we're still excited because we've heard that there's a lot of wildlife to be seen. I have my hopes pinned on seeing a silky anteater. People on the board have talked about them, but we've never seen one before. If you've never seen one go to YouTube - they're about the cutest thing you've ever seen. We manage to stay up until 10:00 p.m., a pretty big accomplishment in Costa Rica!
May 5th, 2013, 07:03 AM
#11
So you went and snuck away again .!!!Hmmm
Love the report, will be following.
Love the report, will be following.
May 5th, 2013, 09:50 AM
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When I was e-mailing MAE about the mangrove tours, they told me that the time of your tour is totally dependent on the tides. They usually only go out once a day. The days leading up to our trip had times like 3:00 p.m. and then the next day at 3:30 p.m., but lucky us we got 6:30 a.m.! We don't have much time for breakfast, so we grab fresh fruit, a granola bar, and a glass of milk. The milk that we have comes in a box - makes it really handy to fit in that small frig. Our tour is supposed to include lunch, and we wonder if we'll be having "lunch" at 8:00 a.m.!
Juan arrives promptly in the van, and there's a family with three young kids inside who are very excited to get out and see some monkeys. When we ask where they're from, they tell us Boston, and because of what's going on there, that word has new weight. None of us mentions it because of the kids, but I know we're all hoping the bombers are caught quickly. Even in tiny Costa Rica the news is non-stop coverage.
Looks like we're lucky enough to have beautiful sunny weather again. Seems to be a strong pattern of sunny days and rainy nights this time of year. We arrive at the boat dock and board Juan's boat. He tells us that the driver has a real eagle eye, so this should be good. Juan asks us if we know what damas means, and we say no, but then I realize that I've seen it written on many bathroom doors - it means women! He says that that's correct, and that Damas Island is so named because it's in the shape of a woman. This is a pretty area, and we immediately start seeing water birds - hot pink roseate spoonbills, herons, white ibis (ibises?!), cattle, snowy, and great egrets, basilisk lizards running on the water. This tour reminds me so much of Cano Negro and Tortuguero, both areas that we love. Plus it's just fun to spend the day in a boat! The boat is covered, but they tell us to put on sunscreen anyway because at certain angles the sun shines in bright and strong. Temps are in the low 90s.
As our boat approaches a mangrove area, we see capuchin monkeys emerging from the greenery. Juan tells us that many of the tour boats feed them, so they're very habituated to people. Before I know it, one has hopped onto the roof of the boat and is shimmying down to get a closer look at us! MAE does not believe in feeding the monkeys, and that's one of the reasons we chose to go with them since it's really not good for them. Our monkey looks ticked that we don't have any food, and he bares his teeth at us. Other monkeys have crawled out to the tips of the branches to see if monkey #1 gets a handout. They gnash their teeth at us too! It makes for some amusing photos, but all of a sudden these monkeys aren't looking so cute and friendly. Another boat pulls up next to us, and this one has food. The monkeys board the boat, and one even climbs on a passenger's head! The man doesn't quite know what to do. So he sits immobilized while his wife takes photos.
Juan tells us that there are certain areas of the mangroves that have to be dredged and that a lot of people are tired of it. He said there's a bit of a battle of the tour boats for the monkeys and that one owner is trying to lead them to another area by dumping piles and piles of bananas in the new spot. Juan is rightfully concerned that this could throw the entire environment out of whack. Monkeys eating 50 pounds of bananas are not going to consume the insects, crabs, lizards, and other things they normally should.
We travel further into the mangroves, and all the crazy tree roots look like tangled tripods. There are some huge black nests on the sides of the trees. The little boy next to me asks what they are and I tell him they're termite nests. Some of them are six feet long or more. He thinks that's really cool. And keeps telling me, "Look, there's one! There's another one!" And he begins counting all of them. I think this is a great tour for kids as long as they aren't too young. The littlest one who is about four years old looks a little bored, but the other two are loving it. And keep saying, "Look another monkey!" All of a sudden we see a croc in the water, and the kids really love that. We see kayakers too, and I'm glad we're in the boat!
We continue through the mangroves and then Juan and the driver both spot it - the tiny elusive silky anteater. I am so excited! It's really amazing to see something new after so many trips to CR, and these tiny guys aren't easy to spot. It's curled up in a ball in a tree. I get a picture that looks sort of like a tennis ball wedged between two branches, but I know what it is!
Juan arrives promptly in the van, and there's a family with three young kids inside who are very excited to get out and see some monkeys. When we ask where they're from, they tell us Boston, and because of what's going on there, that word has new weight. None of us mentions it because of the kids, but I know we're all hoping the bombers are caught quickly. Even in tiny Costa Rica the news is non-stop coverage.
Looks like we're lucky enough to have beautiful sunny weather again. Seems to be a strong pattern of sunny days and rainy nights this time of year. We arrive at the boat dock and board Juan's boat. He tells us that the driver has a real eagle eye, so this should be good. Juan asks us if we know what damas means, and we say no, but then I realize that I've seen it written on many bathroom doors - it means women! He says that that's correct, and that Damas Island is so named because it's in the shape of a woman. This is a pretty area, and we immediately start seeing water birds - hot pink roseate spoonbills, herons, white ibis (ibises?!), cattle, snowy, and great egrets, basilisk lizards running on the water. This tour reminds me so much of Cano Negro and Tortuguero, both areas that we love. Plus it's just fun to spend the day in a boat! The boat is covered, but they tell us to put on sunscreen anyway because at certain angles the sun shines in bright and strong. Temps are in the low 90s.
As our boat approaches a mangrove area, we see capuchin monkeys emerging from the greenery. Juan tells us that many of the tour boats feed them, so they're very habituated to people. Before I know it, one has hopped onto the roof of the boat and is shimmying down to get a closer look at us! MAE does not believe in feeding the monkeys, and that's one of the reasons we chose to go with them since it's really not good for them. Our monkey looks ticked that we don't have any food, and he bares his teeth at us. Other monkeys have crawled out to the tips of the branches to see if monkey #1 gets a handout. They gnash their teeth at us too! It makes for some amusing photos, but all of a sudden these monkeys aren't looking so cute and friendly. Another boat pulls up next to us, and this one has food. The monkeys board the boat, and one even climbs on a passenger's head! The man doesn't quite know what to do. So he sits immobilized while his wife takes photos.
Juan tells us that there are certain areas of the mangroves that have to be dredged and that a lot of people are tired of it. He said there's a bit of a battle of the tour boats for the monkeys and that one owner is trying to lead them to another area by dumping piles and piles of bananas in the new spot. Juan is rightfully concerned that this could throw the entire environment out of whack. Monkeys eating 50 pounds of bananas are not going to consume the insects, crabs, lizards, and other things they normally should.
We travel further into the mangroves, and all the crazy tree roots look like tangled tripods. There are some huge black nests on the sides of the trees. The little boy next to me asks what they are and I tell him they're termite nests. Some of them are six feet long or more. He thinks that's really cool. And keeps telling me, "Look, there's one! There's another one!" And he begins counting all of them. I think this is a great tour for kids as long as they aren't too young. The littlest one who is about four years old looks a little bored, but the other two are loving it. And keep saying, "Look another monkey!" All of a sudden we see a croc in the water, and the kids really love that. We see kayakers too, and I'm glad we're in the boat!
We continue through the mangroves and then Juan and the driver both spot it - the tiny elusive silky anteater. I am so excited! It's really amazing to see something new after so many trips to CR, and these tiny guys aren't easy to spot. It's curled up in a ball in a tree. I get a picture that looks sort of like a tennis ball wedged between two branches, but I know what it is!
May 5th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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As the tour comes to a close, we head out of the mangroves and see one last cool little thing, a row of tiny long-nosed bats all lined up on a tree trunk. As we get closer, they all start moving back and forth in unison, trying to appear more intimidating than they really are.
Our boat pulls in to the dock and Pablo, the other guide, is there to greet us with his young daughter. Someone asks where we're going for lunch and Juan says, "We decided to take you guys to Wendy's." Bummer - Wendy's? We were hoping for some authentic Costa Rican food, maybe casados, but it looks like a fast food burger is in our future instead.
We drive for a while and eventually pull into a neighborhood and up in front of a tidy Costa Rican home. Juan winks and says, "Welcome to Wendy's!" We all have a good laugh. Wendy is Pablo's wife and she's going to be cooking for us. It's really cool that they've invited us into their home. I expect Pablo's wife to be American based on her name, but she's actually Nicaraguan and cooks up a mean batch of gallo pinto, scrambled eggs, plantains, fresh avocado, and toast served with jam. We have Tropical to drink. That stuff is addictive. If you haven't tried it, both the frutas mixtas and mango flavors are really good. Normally they serve fish, but they thought it would be weird to eat fish that early in the morning. The breakfast really hits the spot. Love me some gallo pinto!
We enjoy the hospitality and learn more about Juan and his business. I comment on his nice scope, and he says that he recently had to replace it because he left the last one in his car in a backpack, and it was stolen. Guess it doesn't only happen to tourists! He says it's a shame because he paid $3,700 for it, and the thief probably didn't even know what he had. He and my husband hit it off, and he offers to take us free of charge to go see toucans and macaws if we're free one afternoon, so we make plans to do that. Seriously nice guy. As we finish eating, the four year old declares that she wants to go swim in the pool and "Why are we all just sitting here?!", so we all pile back in the van and head back to enjoy some pool and beach time.
We're supposed to be moving into the bunalow today. And when we arrive back at Tulemar, we find out that Bill has already moved all of our luggage for us, and the bungalow is ready and waiting for us. We're sad to say goodbye to Mot Mot but excited to see a new spot.
Our boat pulls in to the dock and Pablo, the other guide, is there to greet us with his young daughter. Someone asks where we're going for lunch and Juan says, "We decided to take you guys to Wendy's." Bummer - Wendy's? We were hoping for some authentic Costa Rican food, maybe casados, but it looks like a fast food burger is in our future instead.
We drive for a while and eventually pull into a neighborhood and up in front of a tidy Costa Rican home. Juan winks and says, "Welcome to Wendy's!" We all have a good laugh. Wendy is Pablo's wife and she's going to be cooking for us. It's really cool that they've invited us into their home. I expect Pablo's wife to be American based on her name, but she's actually Nicaraguan and cooks up a mean batch of gallo pinto, scrambled eggs, plantains, fresh avocado, and toast served with jam. We have Tropical to drink. That stuff is addictive. If you haven't tried it, both the frutas mixtas and mango flavors are really good. Normally they serve fish, but they thought it would be weird to eat fish that early in the morning. The breakfast really hits the spot. Love me some gallo pinto!
We enjoy the hospitality and learn more about Juan and his business. I comment on his nice scope, and he says that he recently had to replace it because he left the last one in his car in a backpack, and it was stolen. Guess it doesn't only happen to tourists! He says it's a shame because he paid $3,700 for it, and the thief probably didn't even know what he had. He and my husband hit it off, and he offers to take us free of charge to go see toucans and macaws if we're free one afternoon, so we make plans to do that. Seriously nice guy. As we finish eating, the four year old declares that she wants to go swim in the pool and "Why are we all just sitting here?!", so we all pile back in the van and head back to enjoy some pool and beach time.
We're supposed to be moving into the bunalow today. And when we arrive back at Tulemar, we find out that Bill has already moved all of our luggage for us, and the bungalow is ready and waiting for us. We're sad to say goodbye to Mot Mot but excited to see a new spot.
May 5th, 2013, 12:30 PM
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Bill is waiting for us at the bungalow when we arrive. It's amazing how he always turns up just when we need him. The bungalows at Tulemar do not have balconies, but they do have huge windows that go all around the perimeter, and they all open up so you can still enjoy the fresh air. Some of the fixtures are dated, but all in all it's very comfortable. Most of the bungalows were built in the 80s, making them the oldest rooms on the property. The bedroom has two beds which makes my husband ask, "Are you trying to tell me something?!" Ha, ha!! Some of the lights aren't working, and we don't really care, but Bill calls maintenance anyway and says he doesn't want us to worry about anything or have any problems on our vacation. He is a pretty amazing guy too!
Maintenance comes and fixes things, and they also bring a box of homemade chocolates to us as a welcome to the bungalow gift. Not just the chocolates, but they're encased in a big palm frond and surrounded by red hibiscus flowers - really thoughtful and elaborate. This villa has its own concierge, but they decide to let us stick with Bill since we already know him.
We change into our swimsuits again and call the shuttle driver for a pick up. Before we even can get outside they're already there waiting for us. The driver spots howlers in the trees, and we're able to get some good photos. There are lots of them, really the first wildlife we've seen on the property. Some of them have small babies clinging to their backs. They're loud and sound ferocious, but when you watch them they just laze around in the trees eating leaves. We boogie board for a few hours and then grab lunch at the beach cafe which is really just some beach chairs set up in the sand. They have a tent where they do all the cooking. Not sure how they do it, but I get a mahi mahi sandwich while my husband has BBQ chicken. Both pretty good, but priced as you'd expect hotel food to be. We also have a couple drinks and an Imperial. So nice to relax with your toes in the sand.
Maintenance comes and fixes things, and they also bring a box of homemade chocolates to us as a welcome to the bungalow gift. Not just the chocolates, but they're encased in a big palm frond and surrounded by red hibiscus flowers - really thoughtful and elaborate. This villa has its own concierge, but they decide to let us stick with Bill since we already know him.
We change into our swimsuits again and call the shuttle driver for a pick up. Before we even can get outside they're already there waiting for us. The driver spots howlers in the trees, and we're able to get some good photos. There are lots of them, really the first wildlife we've seen on the property. Some of them have small babies clinging to their backs. They're loud and sound ferocious, but when you watch them they just laze around in the trees eating leaves. We boogie board for a few hours and then grab lunch at the beach cafe which is really just some beach chairs set up in the sand. They have a tent where they do all the cooking. Not sure how they do it, but I get a mahi mahi sandwich while my husband has BBQ chicken. Both pretty good, but priced as you'd expect hotel food to be. We also have a couple drinks and an Imperial. So nice to relax with your toes in the sand.
May 5th, 2013, 03:09 PM
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As the thunder rolls in again, we head back up to the room and start exploring the bungalow. It's much roomier than Mot Mot. The toilet is a bit dodgy, but I discover that if I hold the handle down, indeed that one square of toilet paper will eventually flush. We've seen plenty of CR toilets that don't take paper at all, so this still seems luxury.
We decide to check out what's on t.v. and find that "Dance Moms" translated into Spanish is on - really, this is the part of our culture that we export?! We make the decision to go out for the night and head off to Barba Roja, an awesome little open air restaurant with great sunset views. There are several casual restaurants close to Tulemar, and this is one that we can walk to.
I order a margarita, and my husband has his usual Imperial beer. The margarita is one of the best I've had, and the rain holds off, so we have a nice night dining by candlelight under the stars. I get the mountain trout with green beans and mashed potatoes, and my husband orders the burger. The trout and side dishes turn out to be fantastic, and my husband's burger is really good too - it has bleu cheese and something arugalish on it and comes with sweet potato fries. Good stuff! I would definitely recommend this place, and the prices were pretty affordable too. We have enough food to bring home leftovers. And being the party people that we are we stay up until 10:00 p.m. again.
We have plans to drive to the Rio Tarcoles tomorrow to take a croc tour down the river. Bill says he'll arrange to have a car delivered to us first thing in the morning. He is making this trip way too easy for us!
We decide to check out what's on t.v. and find that "Dance Moms" translated into Spanish is on - really, this is the part of our culture that we export?! We make the decision to go out for the night and head off to Barba Roja, an awesome little open air restaurant with great sunset views. There are several casual restaurants close to Tulemar, and this is one that we can walk to.
I order a margarita, and my husband has his usual Imperial beer. The margarita is one of the best I've had, and the rain holds off, so we have a nice night dining by candlelight under the stars. I get the mountain trout with green beans and mashed potatoes, and my husband orders the burger. The trout and side dishes turn out to be fantastic, and my husband's burger is really good too - it has bleu cheese and something arugalish on it and comes with sweet potato fries. Good stuff! I would definitely recommend this place, and the prices were pretty affordable too. We have enough food to bring home leftovers. And being the party people that we are we stay up until 10:00 p.m. again.
We have plans to drive to the Rio Tarcoles tomorrow to take a croc tour down the river. Bill says he'll arrange to have a car delivered to us first thing in the morning. He is making this trip way too easy for us!
May 6th, 2013, 02:49 AM
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Great report, vc! I was starting to think I might actually like Manual Antonio, until I got to your account of the mangrove tour boats circling the monkeys and people competing to feed them. It just seems so sad and not at all like our experience elsewhere in CR. The property itself sounds really nice though. I love that you were recognized as "volcanogirl"!
May 6th, 2013, 04:05 AM
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Cat, I agree. I just don't understand feeding the monkeys. Juan said, "That's what some tourists like to see." I was so glad he didn't feed them. Luckily Tulemar has a no feeding policy so the monkeys there still act like monkeys.
May 6th, 2013, 09:48 AM
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Another trip back to CR! It sounds like you loved Tulemar! I'm looking forward to hearing about the rest of your adventures. It seems like a perfect combination of relaxation and activity this trip!
